Thread Number: 2881
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Post# 76811   8/6/2005 at 02:10 (6,809 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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Well, I am thinking of divivng into the GE on Saturday (6th) and seeing what I can about the problems I have been having. If anyone can help me throughout the process, I will be on AIM (AOL) as MaytagWringer, and I will also be on Yahoo Messenger as Agitatorjamie. Lemme review the problems, one, water pouring of the outer drum while darining on larger loads settings. Two, tub does not "catch" at the beginning of agitation and moves freely accept when it bumps into the brake and makes a "bumping" noise, (go figure.) Three, does not shift speed (I just learned not to change the speed while it's running.(the hard way that is.)) Four, the washer makes 2 loud clanging sounds when the spin is disengaged and brakes are applied. ANY help is appreciated!!!!




Post# 76832 , Reply# 1   8/6/2005 at 08:33 (6,808 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Hi Jamie, first of all I have two pieces of very good news for you.

#1 tub does not "catch" at the beginning of agitation and moves freely accept when it bumps into the brake and makes a "bumping" noise, (go figure.)

and

#2 , the washer makes 2 loud clanging sounds when the spin is disengaged and brakes are applied. ANY help is appreciated!!!!

Both of those are perfectly Normal, every GE made from 1960 thru 1995 does that! So you can sit back and just enjoy a very quintessential GE transmission.

Now as for the machine not going into low speed, that probably was happening before you got the machine and its not your fault. You not suppose to change it from Normal to Gentle during operation, but doing it once or twice should kill the solenoid/clutch shifter. Doing it 100 times certainly would. So I wouldn't worry about that anyway right now, High speed is certainly more fun anyway, so for now I think you should just concentrate on the water leak, that's your REAL problem.

Jamie, have you take the rear panel off of the back of the washer? Can you see the outer tub? If so can you watch the washer go into spin from the back of the machine and see where the water is coming from? If its coming from the top front of the outer tub not going to be able to see it very well, but if its leaking from the top of the side or top of the rear you can pinpoint where the leak is comming from.

Why don't you try that first and come back and tell us what you find. We will help you through this.


Post# 76833 , Reply# 2   8/6/2005 at 08:39 (6,808 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Ummm one other thing Jamie, during the very beginning of wash, the wash tub is only suppose to slowly spin around a few times, bang once and the lock into a stationary position. If you mean that it keeps banging and trying to lock into position and it doesn't, that's a whole another story.

Post# 76846 , Reply# 3   8/6/2005 at 13:03 (6,808 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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yea, thats the problem, it doesn't lock and it keeps banging...

Post# 76852 , Reply# 4   8/6/2005 at 14:18 (6,808 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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Ok, they leak is coming from the top of the outer drum, how do I get the top of the machine off?

Post# 76859 , Reply# 5   8/6/2005 at 16:40 (6,808 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Get a small putty knife and look for two indentations between the top and cabinet. Those are the clips that hold the top to the cabinet. Push in HARD and pull up on the top to release them (the first is harder than the second to get off). Be sure to take the Filter-Flo nozzle out of the cover shield first!!

Check for any debris that might be causing the seal to leak, and clean the seal thoroughly. That should solve the leaking problem.


Post# 76877 , Reply# 6   8/6/2005 at 18:05 (6,808 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Jamie don't worry about the tub not locking in during activation. In order to fix this you have to replace the whole transmission, but its not really a big issue since the wash tub doesn't really need to be lock tight in a GE. As long as its not spinning round and round when washing you should be just fine.

As for the seal problem you might want to pick up a $5 package of closed cell foam at Ace Hardware. Be sure to get "Closed Cell" and not Open Cell. They have it in the weatherstripping department. It looks sort of like the top seal around the outer tub in the GE. The foam strip is self-sticking and you peal the foam just like a Band-Aid and then stick it around the entire top of the old seal.


Post# 76879 , Reply# 7   8/6/2005 at 18:51 (6,808 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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AAAARRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!! The top won't come off!!!!!

Post# 76880 , Reply# 8   8/6/2005 at 18:59 (6,808 days old) by Compwhiz128 ()        

*Walks down to jamies house with a loaded dubble barrel shotgun*

Post# 76883 , Reply# 9   8/6/2005 at 19:28 (6,808 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Hmmmm...it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get some closed-cell foam and use it on the Dispensall's top seal, and the Bendix's trap seal.

Ace is open Monday...might need to make a trip down there.


Post# 76898 , Reply# 10   8/6/2005 at 21:25 (6,808 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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Quote: *Walks down to jamies house with a loaded dubble barrel shotgun*

Why what did he do to you? LOL
This (or shooting the machine) does not help restore and re-condition washers! LOL

To get mine open, I used two flat-blade screwdrivers. You may need a helper to lift the top piece off while you are disengaging the spring clips that hold it togehter.

On my 1991 GE FF:
My tub does not engage either, rather, it bangs against the brake ever few seconds.

My tranny also sounds like it has debris or something in it when on "SLOW" speed.




Post# 77039 , Reply# 11   8/7/2005 at 22:31 (6,807 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

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ok, problem solved, I thought the clips were in the back, but now I am movin, the leak, solved, the overflow valve is doin it, that has to go. The floating agitator? the new i put in seems to be missing something inside, the old has that assuring pop. The transmission, whatever, it still works. ;D I will stil seal things up some more, like the seal around the top, I'll get that closed-pore weatherband stuff. I'll also put some silicone on a rust spot forming and I'll get rid of the overflow valve, the machine'll never be run without getting watched anyway! ;D

Post# 77098 , Reply# 12   8/8/2005 at 09:38 (6,806 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Woohoo!! Glad everything's working!

Did you check to see if the spline insert was in place in the other agitator? If it is, you have to push down really HARD when installing it so it will "lock in".

Let us know what happens.



Post# 77145 , Reply# 13   8/8/2005 at 15:34 (6,806 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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Really Austin-

You need to think about becoming a jet-engine mechanic.
Boy; you have talent!


100% serious
Trust me when I tell you..
Eductaion and career are and shoudl be your #1 and #2 goals in life at your age.. Trust me, my grandpa used to tell me and I laughed. But really, all else will come.

and this goes for all you youngins'!


-Steve



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