Thread Number: 29374
Maytag DE608 does not shut off.
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Post# 446856   7/4/2010 at 08:16 (5,038 days old) by SYSCO ()        

I have a Maytag DE608 dryer which continues to run after the clothes are dry. It does shut off if you open the dryer door.

I removed the control panel cover and noticed that the chime actuator is broken off where it mounts to the metal post. The metal chime ringer is missing. The chime ringer solenoid that goes through the actuator connects to a wafer that goes into the control switch. Is the broken chime actuator the cause of the problem? It would seem that the wafer going into the control switch must serve some purpose.

While troubleshooting, I put the unit on air dry and the chime solenoid fired almost immediately.

Thanks,

Rich





Post# 446882 , Reply# 1   7/4/2010 at 10:48 (5,038 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT DRYER

combo52's profile picture
You found the problem you need a new selector switch, this was a fairly common problem at one time with these dryers.

Post# 446931 , Reply# 2   7/4/2010 at 13:11 (5,038 days old) by SYSCO ()        

Thank you for your reply. The white plastic chime actuator which is around the solenoid plunger is the piece that is broken. Does that affect the shutoff? It appears that when the chime sounds the plunger pulls the wafer attached at the end of the plunger in and out of the control switch. I would hate to go for the actuator and the switch if it is in fact just the actuator that needs to be replace.

Post# 447002 , Reply# 3   7/4/2010 at 18:26 (5,038 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
The plastic piece that strikes the bell is just that: a bell striker. When the dryer senses the load's dry, the solenoid activates and does two things; it pulls the slide over in the control switch and it rings the bell. There is a cooldown thermostat that keeps the motor running until it senses the temp in the drum has 'cooled down' and then it opens and kills power to the motor. Or you can stop the motor by opening the door. I'd check the cooldown thermostat and make sure it's open when cold (as opposed to a heating thermostat which is CLOSED when cold...).

BTW, the plastic piece with the striker probably fell down inside the dryer. They can still be found.

RCD


Post# 447003 , Reply# 4   7/4/2010 at 18:28 (5,038 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
Ok. So I'm blind...

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
The plastic piece is still there... It's the older wire one that falls inside...

RCD


Post# 447039 , Reply# 5   7/4/2010 at 20:12 (5,038 days old) by SYSCO ()        

I just tried it on the "damp dry" setting. The solenoid fired the chime immediately and it just continued to ring. The unit did not shut off even though the clothes were completely dry after approximately 40 minutes.

Any ideas?


Post# 447045 , Reply# 6   7/4/2010 at 20:40 (5,038 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
Forgive me for asking the obvious--

but how is the ground? Electronic control Maytag Halo-of-Heat dryers can be very sensitive, and only seem to work correctly if they are properly grounded. At least that has been my experience.


Lawrence/Maytagbear


Post# 447104 , Reply# 7   7/5/2010 at 05:45 (5,037 days old) by SYSCO ()        

It's been working with the same electrical connection for 30 years, so I would have to assume (yes, I know what happens when one assumes) that it continues to function properly.

Post# 447118 , Reply# 8   7/5/2010 at 08:06 (5,037 days old) by frigidaireguy (Wiston-Salem, NC)        
You have a easy fix

Hi my name is Darrell and I work on frigidaireguy's machines a lot and I'll bet your bell is not working. You have a picture of the problem. Looking from the top in your picture you will see the bell and a cam with a paper clip looking piece coming out of the switch. I call it a cam but do not know the proper name for this part. As the machine wears the cam starts turning to much to go in and out. Set your machine to Damp dry and watch the cam. You will see it is not going in correctly. All you have to do is rotate the cam a little back and forth and it will go right back into place. I did this about a year ago and it is still working fine. Let me know.

Post# 447217 , Reply# 9   7/5/2010 at 16:18 (5,037 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Also, make sure the 'paper clip' isn't stretched, and is fully pulling the plunger out of the selector switch.

Post# 447237 , Reply# 10   7/5/2010 at 17:48 (5,037 days old) by SYSCO ()        

Thanks for the replies. I felt that the plunger, clip and wafer had something to do with it. I just checked the control switch again. The wafer which attaches to the solenoid plunger may have been damaged when the chime actuator snapped. It really doesn't seem to have any resistance to motion and appears not to be engaging anything. The paperclip linkage appears to be okay. When the actuator snapped, it might have pulled the switch beyond its normal travel.

At this point I think that I will change both the broken chime actuator and the control switch. Hopefully this will solve the problem. The chime actuator is the more difficult of the two to find in stock. Most Internet merchants show it as a 5-6 day item, while a couple have it as in stock. If anyone knows a good source for one at a reasonable price or happens to have one sitting in the junk box :-), I'd appreciate the information.

Thanks again for all of the input.



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