Thread Number: 30144
Maytag Model A108 Troubleshooting |
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Post# 457531 , Reply# 1   8/17/2010 at 14:45 (4,997 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 457542 , Reply# 2   8/17/2010 at 15:27 (4,997 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 457568 , Reply# 3   8/17/2010 at 17:23 (4,997 days old) by daveinpdx22 ()   |   | |
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I'll check that out when I get home later on.. |
Post# 457796 , Reply# 5   8/18/2010 at 15:36 (4,996 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Not necessarily. If the machine has filled to the proper water level the motor will start turning in the agitation direction and timer will click to advance itself every 30 seconds. It sounds like the motor should be running but its not.
Does the motor make any sound(s) what so ever like a hum or is it completely silent? Also does the motor work when you manually advance the dial into spin? |
Post# 457801 , Reply# 7   8/18/2010 at 15:54 (4,996 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Yes, so its most likely one of three issues then.
#1 The motor is bad, usually with bad motors you hear something like a hum. #2 The timer is having issues not sending the proper voltage to the proper wires. #3 Something is up with the wiring to the motor. That would be my first suspicion. (The terminal block seems to have a switch on it? and that appears to activate a switch on the motor itself) Personal I know much more about pre-1958 AMP style Maytag washers than the more modern Helical-Drive models like you have, so I'm not sure what you mean by that. Probably that is the motor start switch, but again usually when those go bad or get stuck you'll hear a light hum and the motor heats up relatively fast when those go bad. We do have lots of Helical-Drive experts here so someone should be able to help with the troubleshooting. |
Post# 457838 , Reply# 9   8/18/2010 at 19:06 (4,996 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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You just have to check for continuity through the motor overload and both windings using the wiring diagram. If thats ok you have a bad timer assuming all the wires are attached at the timer. Bad wiring is almost never a problem on MT washers and dirty terminals are never a problem on high load items at 120 volts. Good luck.
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Post# 457848 , Reply# 10   8/18/2010 at 19:58 (4,996 days old) by daveinpdx22 ()   |   | |
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"You just have to check for continuity through the motor overload and both windings using the wiring diagram." Is motor overload the black block with the terminals on top of the motor? |
Post# 458164 , Reply# 14   8/20/2010 at 16:03 (4,994 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 458222 , Reply# 15   8/21/2010 at 01:12 (4,994 days old) by bigalsf (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Hi, have you checked the lid switch? You could try bypassing it for a quick check. Good luck! |
Post# 458233 , Reply# 16   8/21/2010 at 05:42 (4,994 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 458256 , Reply# 17   8/21/2010 at 10:32 (4,993 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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What I would do next is study the wiring diagram to see how to what terminals are hot and what terminals are neutral when the motor is running and build a 120 volt test cord that you plug into the wall socket to see if the motor runs normally.
There is a chance that the motor overload switch is stuck in the open position. The only other option here is to find a good used motor and try switching them. Its going to be difficult for any of us to troubleshoot this from afar. Without being there to take the motor apart to see if anything looks off. |