Thread Number: 31548
Vintage Miele W1070 issue 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 475977   11/17/2010 at 22:29 (4,906 days old) by gump ()        

Hi all,
The internet is a great place since where else could I pose a question about a 20 year old washer!

I love my 20 year old Miele W1070 washer (same as the W1065 but without the (coveted) port hole). Yes it uses way too much water for our sensitive water conservationist ways that we have today, but it goes to 95C (like '11' on an amplifier for all the Spinal Tap fans out there) and is rock-solid doing multiple loads a day (small kids with bladder issues).

Last year I had to tear it apart (not so difficult) to replace the rubber seal (you need a 12" flat screwdriver!), but other than that, no issues.

Until last week, when I tried to take a shower. To my surprise, there was little hot water. That has never happened before, but I guessed it was due to having done a dishwasher load (in a Miele Diamante G2150 naturally) and a 'hots' load at the same time. Later on when I was doing another load I noticed an odd sound. As you AGers know, the sounds coming from your washer are odd, but over time you get to know them and understand where in the cycle you are. This time, I heard a weird sound. When I checked out the washer I found out that it was purging water in small bursts, but continuously. Then I noticed that the hot water was filling... in the spin cycle? When I turned the power off, the hot water continued to flow... all .. the .. time, even when the power was off, or the door open (see below). I eventually had to turn the hot water tap off. I can still do loads but strictly cold water.

To those of you who repair washers, the fix is obvious. But for a novice like me, what is it? Stuck hot water value? Is this expensive? Can I fix it? I have a pretty good relationship with Miele Canada, so I might be able to get the part. But I don't want to buy a new one ... although that honeycomb drum is sweet!

sudsmaster and Launderess, are you listening?








Post# 476015 , Reply# 1   11/18/2010 at 03:51 (4,906 days old) by favorit ()        

Hi Eric,

don't worry. It fills even with the power off . This means it's just a stuck hot water valve and it's not a major (e.g. electric/electronic) fault. Sand and/or other debris (rust ?) in the water line sometimes are so small : the screens on the washer pipes can't stop them.

It's not a very expensive fix (even considering Miele spare part prices)... it's not worth to dispose such a tank built washer just for a stuck valve ...

Also please note that it uses a lot of water ** to rinse ** BUT prewash and main wash steps in cottons and permapress cycles use a low water level, so the electrical consumption actually is not so obscene as one would expect :)



Post# 476050 , Reply# 2   11/18/2010 at 09:39 (4,906 days old) by gump ()        

Thanks so much for replying. Your W1065 is a great looking machine. I wish I had the port hole version of this machine. I hate that I can't tell how much water is in there plus how dirty the water is. My outlet hose goes straight to the drain so I can't see the water there either!

It is good to know that it 'could' be an easy fix.

I clean the hoses and connections once a year so I doubt that it could be debris, but you never know. I like a clean machine!

I phoned Miele Canada and once again, they had no problem sending me the schema I was looking for. You can see it below. It may be hard to see, but what part number should I be ordering?

Parts # 12,13,14,15 are all hoses.
Parts # 12 and #13 look to be Pre-wash.
Parts # 14 looks to be Main wash.
I don't know what hose #15 is.
So do I need to order part #9 or #10 or both?

Thanks so much for advice.



Post# 476333 , Reply# 3   11/19/2010 at 16:29 (4,905 days old) by favorit ()        

hi Eric, That can't be my machine ... here in EU we've 50 Hz, while northamerican models run on 60 Hz. I linked an old pic Sudmaster posted some year ago.

To know which valve you have to replace : unplug the washer, remove the worktop/lid and follow the hot water pipe from outside towards inside the machine. You'll understand which is the faulty valve, then compare it with the draw you posted to have the proper serial number to order.

Post# 476653 , Reply# 4   11/21/2010 at 13:25 (4,903 days old) by electron1100 (England)        
Hot Water Inlet Valve

 electron1100's profile picture
Hello If you dont mind me butting in my take would be part number: 2223401 pt no.9 inlet valve 3/4" 359 3x12L 120v 60Hz

The two other valves are the same type so i would say they are cold fill valves, one for the fabric conditioner and one for the cold fill.

Gary

Post# 477289 , Reply# 5   11/24/2010 at 15:03 (4,900 days old) by gump ()        

Hi all,

Just wanted to update you on my progress to get my W1070 washer washing piping hot again!

Took off the cover to reveal the innards of the beast. Scaring running the thing without the lid... 1100rpm!

As you can see, the cold water valve(s) on on the left and the hot water on the right.


Post# 477292 , Reply# 6   11/24/2010 at 15:07 (4,900 days old) by gump ()        

Here are the hoses to the fill container.
They are labelled in German "K" and "W" for cold and hot respectively.

The hot water hose is thicker than the others and comes with a nice solid 6mm ring clamp while the cold water hoses get the cheaper pinch clamps.

The far right hose is cold water fabric softener fill, then comes overflow hose (?), then comes cold water pre-wash fill, then hot water main wash fill, then cold water main wash fill.

Hoses are 20+ years old and in excellent condition.

Post# 477294 , Reply# 7   11/24/2010 at 15:12 (4,900 days old) by gump ()        

This is the cold water inlet value.

Gary, this is the part you are talking about. This is a 3/4" 3x12 litre valve.

I took a multi-meter to them during operation (careful!). The front one reads 142V during the rinse cycle, starch fill stage. The back top one reads 142V during the main wash stage. The back bottom one reads 142V during the pre-wash stage and the rinse stages.


Post# 477296 , Reply# 8   11/24/2010 at 15:28 (4,900 days old) by gump ()        

Finally, here is the cuprit!

Hot water inlet value, part #10 (schematic above).
Inlet valve 3/4 inch 319 12l 120v 60hz part# 2223392 $202.49CAD.

Tested the voltage at the solenoid coil. For any main wash (not pre-wash) that wasn't cold (i.e. below the 30C set point), it was 142V during the main wash cycle only. Therefore the control should be ok.

Weird thing is that there is 1K ohm resistance across the solenoid coil at the terminals as are the other water inlet values. Therefore the solenoid appears to be ok??? Then why does it fill up *all the time*?

I un-screwed the ring hose clamp and removed the spacer(as Miele says), and looked closer at the valve. It wasn't jammed or filled with debris... clean! The little plastic screen looked fine in the hose too.

Anyway, here are the other costs:

part #15, connection hose, part# 2227660 $19.71
part # 7, spacer inlet valve, part# 1268923 $6.24
part # 2, filter, part# 6555870 $1.72
part # 3, sealing washer 13x26,5x3 part# 6249470 $1.72
part # , water inlet hose 1.5m screw conn 3/4, part# 6909080 $66.40

I'll obviously replace the hot water inlet value. But at the same time, I'll replace the washers and filters (brittle), and as my Dad always says, replace the hose (even if it looks great). The valve they have in stock, but the rest of the parts are in Germany and will take 2 weeks to get here.

Post# 477297 , Reply# 9   11/24/2010 at 15:30 (4,900 days old) by gump ()        

$202 for that little thing!

It is like buying lingerie (for my wife, not me freaks). The smaller the piece, the more expensive! :)

Post# 477335 , Reply# 10   11/24/2010 at 19:08 (4,899 days old) by favorit ()        
Overflow hose ?

 No, that hose is part of the steam/moisture condensing device, that's not an exclusive miele design but a common device on whatever euro frontloader

Vintage euro frontloaders were very famous for their ... infamous smells (OK, I know many people here swear for those laundry smells *LOL*). There was a overflow vent in the back for suds ... but also steam came out from there ... Memories of my childhood show this image : wet tiles behind the washer. The washer was somewhat kinda kettle :)

Moreover modern euro frontloaders must have the capability to fit undercounter or even built in/integrated without damaging the cabinets/worktop close to them with steam or moisture

So modern frontloaders have this hose that takes steam/moisture to the drawer (that is however cooler than the tub). Steam gets in touch with the cooler drawer surface, condensates and goes back to the tub via the detergent hose

Post# 477438 , Reply# 11   11/25/2010 at 08:06 (4,899 days old) by bewitched (Italy)        

Hello, I think you can fit a common water valve and save 200 $ !
It doesn't need to be an original Miele part. Every valve will electrically fit. You might just have problems to mechanically fit the valve to the support that holds it.

Post# 477494 , Reply# 12   11/25/2010 at 13:56 (4,899 days old) by gump ()        

That maybe a possibility, but I am intrigued by the signal voltage of 142V. I would think that most North American soleniods for the water inlet would be 120V, but this washer is a Miele, so a higher voltage? What would happen if you use a higher voltage on one that 'expects' 120V?

Having never done electrics on washers I don't know what to think.


Post# 477495 , Reply# 13   11/25/2010 at 14:04 (4,899 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
check the multimeter

 check your multimeter on a wall outlet and see what it reads..
some multimeters will give a false reading when the batteries
are low..

Post# 477518 , Reply# 14   11/25/2010 at 16:15 (4,899 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
I suspect the water valve, this being a North American machine running on 220 volt split phase, would be running on 110 volts single phase.

I had to replace a door relay on an W1065 a few years back, and was able to get a substitute that works just fine from Grainger. It's my understanding that the electronics on the North American models all run on 110 volts, while the heater is about the only thing that runs on 220 split phase. Don't know about the motor, though.

Anyway thanks for the photos of the interior. Isn't that fully enameled interior sheet metal pretty? As is the stainless outer tub. Can't fault these machines for lack of build and material quality.


Post# 477521 , Reply# 15   11/25/2010 at 16:37 (4,899 days old) by vacfanatic ()        
Under The Hood - 2010 Year Model W3033

 Here is a 2010 Year Model W3033 under the hood - a few simalarities - I wanted to note about voltage. The new ones apparently have a step up transformer so the US can run off of the same 220 volt UK components. Saving Miele cost of making both a 110 and 220 volt component I guess.

Not all of the W3033 runs off 220 though, only certain components.

Andrew

Post# 477522 , Reply# 16   11/25/2010 at 16:38 (4,899 days old) by vacfanatic ()        
2010 Year Model W3033 - Step Up Transformer

Post# 477524 , Reply# 17   11/25/2010 at 16:40 (4,899 days old) by vacfanatic ()        
Water Valve Voltages

Post# 477659 , Reply# 18   11/26/2010 at 12:23 (4,898 days old) by bewitched (Italy)        

water valves are not produced by miele so a common water valve for 120V will be fine as for us in europe a common 220V valve is certainly fine. Miele has not valves that work on odd voltages. Bear in mind that you should have a false read if you measure voltage with the connectors disconnected from the valve itself. To know the effective voltage applied to the water valve you have to set your meter for alternate voltage (AC) and connect the probes of your meter in parallel to the ones (connected)on the valve while the machine is on and during the phase of adding water with that valve.


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