Thread Number: 31709
how do you remove kitchenaid superba KDS-37SST |
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Post# 478379 , Reply# 1   11/29/2010 at 18:29 (4,895 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I just worked on a KDS 37A last week before the holidays, the machine could probably be saved if you are so inclined. That said it can be removed and replaced with any other machine out there, the trick is finding an experienced installer who has some good mechanical skills under his or her belt. All to many of the installers out there do not want to take the time to do this, also you will probably end up paying more than the basic installation price to get this done.
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Post# 478399 , Reply# 2   11/29/2010 at 19:29 (4,895 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)   |   | |
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Congratulations on finding a very fine KitchenAid KDS-37, which dates to between 1971 and 1974. The "S" stands for Superba, or top of the line. I just bought a KitchenAid KDC-37, Stainless Steel Sink/Dishwasher combination unit, virtually the exact same as your unit. The "C" stands for Custom, and was the bottom of the line. I picked it up in Buffalo, NY last Saturday November 20th, and brought it home. Yesterday, Todd (varicyclevoice) and I were just studying my machine to answer the exact same question you are asking. The dishwasher is secured to the cabinet with screws from the back, front, and through the side from underneath the sink. So if doing this properly, one would need to disconnect the unit from the water supply, drain and electrical service. Then pull the unit out of it's current position. I have seen firsthand on several occasions, this kind of separation having been performed on other Sink/Dishwasher combination machines (these machines are usually called Electric Sinks). The most common separation being performed on the GE units from the 1950's. Those dishwashers were never meant to be removed, so the cabinets were cut with a hacksaw to remove the dishwasher. Fortunately, this separation process is much more practical, and less painful on the KitchenAid Electric Sinks, but nevertheless, it still is / will be a time consuming project, if you wish the cabinet and stainless steel drainboard to remain in good condition. Once the old dishwasher is removed, a new/modern dishwasher should just slide in underneath the stainless steel drainboard, and reconnected to water and drain. You asked if the dishwasher has any value. Personally, to me, the dishwasher itself, having been removed, would be much less of interest to me. I say this mainly because the model/serial number plate inside the door of the dishwasher, on the left, will read KDS-37, meaning it was originally part of an Electric Sink. Since I collect Electric Sinks, I would much rather have the entire unit. The KDS-37 unit is an Electric Sink, which happens to have a stand-alone KDS-17 dishwasher installed inside the outer cabinet. Those stand-alone dishwashers can still be found, and not at all yet considered rare. Therefore, in my opinion, the KDS-37 dishwasher itself may not be that desirable, EXCEPT, however, for parts. In closing, these dishwashers from this era were very good machines. And I certainly would encourage you to get to know it some more, and continue to use it for a while longer before making the decision to swap it out for something more modern. Hopefully, we will get some additional opinions from other members regarding how you might want to proceed. Good luck. Mike |
Post# 478419 , Reply# 3   11/29/2010 at 22:42 (4,895 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Post# 478563 , Reply# 4   11/30/2010 at 18:20 (4,894 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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A 17 KA difficult to load?! I assume some shtick dreck GE with a chopped up lower rack is easier to load? |
Post# 478565 , Reply# 5   11/30/2010 at 18:34 (4,894 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 478567 , Reply# 6   11/30/2010 at 18:53 (4,894 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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17's still had the lower hydrosweep arm only. 18's were the first models to include 2 arms, plus a mini "constant rinse" arm up top.....a feature that never should have disappeared.
17's are great machines, you just have to pay attention on loading the bottom rack so the upper rack gets sufficient action. With 18+ machines, a person can mindlessly cram (keeping the constant rinse arm in mind for tall items) and get great results every time. |
Post# 478572 , Reply# 7   11/30/2010 at 19:43 (4,894 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 478771 , Reply# 9   12/1/2010 at 19:35 (4,893 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Stevet you are absolutely right about the main wash impeller supplying the water for the CR on the 16-17s. However the CR is still far more powerful on the 16-17 than the 18s, I don't know if it really makes much difference however. I do still want to plumb in a booster pump in the water supply line to the upper rack feed line on my KDSS-20. Because other than having to clean the nasty filter its the only other problem I have with the KDSS-20 is a lack of really good cleaning the insides of some glasses in the top rack compared to my 1987 WP DU8000XR-1. When I get around to doing this I will post results.
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Post# 722250 , Reply# 11   12/20/2013 at 20:17 (3,778 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 722505 , Reply# 13   12/22/2013 at 06:03 (3,777 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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There are three on eBay right now. The part number is 4161073. Hard to say if that's the problem or not but the parts are between $30 and $40 on eBay and it's a relatively easy switch if that's all it is. All three of them are listed as New.
I understand why repairmen are so eager to replace vs. repair anymore but it is too bad that a nice machine like that has to go over a pretty easy fix. If I can do it anyone can. |