Thread Number: 31725
GE filter-flo trying removing basket bolts...Help please!
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Post# 478502   11/30/2010 at 12:39 (4,889 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Hello to everybody, i'm trying to fix the tranny as it have an oil leak from the bottom, i will have to replace the shaft seal under the pulley, taking out the whole tranny, i'm meeting some difficulties removing the 3 bolts securing the basket to the transmission hub, i tried with the help of hammers, descaler, heating them with an hair dryer and with hot water,but no success.... Could i try to torch them? Would be it dangerous? I would not to melt something so i'm asking to you, more practical guys.

Thank you in advance for everyone who can help me suggesting some way for do this.





Post# 478514 , Reply# 1   11/30/2010 at 13:24 (4,889 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The bolts are in there VERY good. Usually I can remove them with just a socket,wrench and LOTS of force. Have you tried WD40,or pbblaster?

Post# 478538 , Reply# 2   11/30/2010 at 15:28 (4,889 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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No use a torch on those bolts. A hair dryer or heat gun is not even close to being strong enough. Get them nice and hot then bang the end of the wrench with a hammer in a counter-clockwise direction.

GE bolts have a tendency to get stuck and have their heads broken off, this has happened to me a few times in the past. If that happens you have to use a vice grip on the treads themselves once the basket is out.




This post was last edited 11/30/2010 at 17:39
Post# 478548 , Reply# 3   11/30/2010 at 16:44 (4,889 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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When I took them out of the 69 GE a few months ago, I torched them without even trying to loosen them first. Fire is our friend but use it safely!

Post# 478554 , Reply# 4   11/30/2010 at 17:01 (4,889 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Thank you guys!
Yes, of course, i tried with pb blaster, i managed to unscrew only one....
The other two...no way...

My concern was only about melting some rubber or plastic parts under there or damage the tranny, but if you guys say that i can of course i'll do so.
Tomorrow i will buy one of that portable propane/butane torch.
Thanks again for help!


Post# 478578 , Reply# 5   11/30/2010 at 20:08 (4,889 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
leaky transmission

My experience has been if the transmission is leaking it is usually because water is getting in the top of it and forcing it out.Do yourself a big favor and replace the transmission they are relatively cheap rebuilt. When those bolts wont come out I use a torch on them and then they come right off.

Post# 478592 , Reply# 6   11/30/2010 at 21:07 (4,889 days old) by danelto (State College, PA)        
Miserable Bolts

I have the last of the GE Filter Flo's. It's fifteen years old.

We keep it in our basement for guests to use whenever we have company. Recently, it quit draining during spin. At the end of a cycle, there would always be an inch or so of water at the bottom of the drum. Consequently, the clothes were soggy.

I thought the pump was the problem. So, I bought a new pump for $75 from a local, Mom-n-Pop, appliance repair shop. The pump was purchased with the understanding that it was non-returnable.

In the process of trying to figure out the draining problem, I knocked the little plastic water shoot thingy between the inner and outer tubs.

Therefore, I had reason to remove the inner basket.

The agitator came off with no problem.

Then, like you, I came to those miserable three bolts.

Three bolts: three days.

I heated. I pounded. I sprayed the things with bolt loosener stuff.

I did, however, pound on each of the three bolts equally.

In other words, I didn't take one bolt off and then work on the next, etc.

But needless to say, getting those suckers off was a painstakingly slow and laborious process.

But do you know what? It's worth it.

For the first time in my life, I actually did a repair that worked.

And do you know what? Not only did I recover the plastic water spout. . .but I also discovered something:

I didn't need the $75 pump after all.

There was a sock that managed to get lodged down there. And it was blocking the drain hole.

So--perseverance is key. Keep pounding. Use fire.

Those bolts will come off. And you will be on the way to building self-confidence and discovering the beauty of GE's.


Post# 478595 , Reply# 7   11/30/2010 at 21:22 (4,889 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE FF WASHER TRANSMISSION

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I second Marks suggestion once you get it out just buy a factory rebuilt transmission they are easily available and less than $100.

Post# 478602 , Reply# 8   11/30/2010 at 21:37 (4,889 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

i've been lucky with my filter flos(two in my collection,
several more stripped for parts)-tub bolts came off easy,
except for a smashed up'75 i stripped for spares-its bolts
were rusted into the aluminum hub and all 3 twisted off...
for the others,tapping on the end the wrench got them loose.
As far as the leaking input seal,seens to be caused by tiny
metal particles wearing on the seal-due to the design of the
filter flo tranny,the spring clutch,and the way the brake
band is driven,they seem to generate more than their fair
share of metal particles that find their way to the lowest
point in the tranny-the shaft seal.....


Post# 478642 , Reply# 9   12/1/2010 at 06:50 (4,888 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Thank you again guys, about water in the tranny seems that there is not, the oil i found seems to have not traces of water inside.... i saw watching from back that oil is sprayed from the pulley wich was coverd by oil even if the washer is still since 1 week, i just think that is the input shaft seal wich is worn... anyway i seriously hope that i will have not to replace the whole tranny as to get one in italy would be soooo expensive because of shipping cost, i would have need to order it in U.S, and i also know that the old-style trannies are not so easy to find there also....
I got the replacing seal from a member, i thank him infinitely.
Anyway, just in case i will have need of a rebuilt tranny i hope someone could help me selling and shipping to me one...
I would pay even the handling if necessary....
I'll let you know how it goes, now i gonna buy a portable propane torch and try to remove bolts.
Thanks to everybody!


Post# 478980 , Reply# 10   12/2/2010 at 14:24 (4,887 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

kenmoreguy89's profile picture
Hi guys, i was able by torching to remove another bolt....still in there the last one..continuing pounding and heating.....now i'm here at computer resting and taking forces...i will try again later...
But another problem is raising.... since very hot the continuos pounding and forcing is causing strip and i'm really scared it will get irremovable without any channel on which to force ....
so i'm starting to be a little worried...
any suggestions?
Thanks


Post# 479120 , Reply# 11   12/3/2010 at 01:31 (4,887 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Could an impact wrench be used to remove the stubborn bolts?would think the impact wrench would be better and easier than heating and pounding.

Post# 479146 , Reply# 12   12/3/2010 at 06:58 (4,886 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Come to think of it Federico, there are three seals on GE transmission.

#1 At the top of the Activator (agitator) shaft
#2 Under the basket hub
#3 Under the drive pulley at the bottom.

Which seal do you need to replace??? If its #3 which it sounds like it might be, you don't need to remove the spin basket or transmission. You can turn the machine on its side, remove the pulley and replace the seal. I did this with my 1958 GE.


Post# 479160 , Reply# 13   12/3/2010 at 08:38 (4,886 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Robert is right if its the bottom seal.......we did the same thing once, but turned the machine completely upsidedown, laid it on padded blocks, and replaced the seal, only reason we did it this way was to keep the oil in the tranny....

Post# 479172 , Reply# 14   12/3/2010 at 09:59 (4,886 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Curious...

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Anyone have a part number for this seal and how hard is it to change? I've noticed the start of mine starting to drip :(. I assume it's repairable, I know that transmissions can be had, but I have something against replacing the whole tranny over a removable seal. If not feasible, I'll replace the transmission, but it seams like a much simpler job to just do the seal. Should I change the oil while it's out or not worry about it? I looks like 80 weight green gear oil?

-Tim


Post# 479187 , Reply# 15   12/3/2010 at 12:13 (4,886 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

kenmoreguy89's profile picture
Hi guys, i removed even the last bolt and spin basket...and now i've just to be careful to take off the boot as it's very dry and old...and then work on tranny, hope it will be easier... yes the seal to replace is that one under the pulley, and yes it was already suggested to me in the past to replace the seal from bottom.. and of course i would not do this painstakingly job for nothing.... i tried to put washer on it's side and work on it from bottom .. but there was impossible... i don't know, maybe your washer is different than mine but the motor+transmission group is covered by a green frame with just a small space on the left, the pulley is located right under the middle of this frame and you cannot do nothing or touch it...

The oil i bought to refill is an 80w special for transmission of cars and machinery gears, it should be fine but i leave the final response to whom is more practical....
And my dear Tim, hope your washer is like the robert's and that you'll have not the need to pass all my troubles just for this worn seal, anyway it would be worst if you have water getting in the tranny and pushing oil out as was supposed before,...hope this is not your case as well...
Thanks again to everybody!
I'll let you know how everything goes!



Post# 479190 , Reply# 16   12/3/2010 at 12:21 (4,886 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

kenmoreguy89's profile picture
P.S i removed the last bolt using a stronger torch and using all the forces i had.... thanks again to everybody for the great help and suggestions!


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