Thread Number: 31796
Maytag A608 era
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Post# 479563   12/5/2010 at 10:36 (2,878 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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Folks-----I paid but didn't pick it up yet, working/rusty Maytag Center-dial A608. Once it's here, I'll post pics and see if I can still read the serial number, but what is the overall era of A608?

Post# 479618 , Reply# 1   12/5/2010 at 15:00 (2,878 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
but what is the overall era of A608?

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Late 1975 through early 1980

Post# 479824 , Reply# 2   12/6/2010 at 10:12 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag A608

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Serial number is 618214-CX(though that could be Ox, difficult/rusty badge to read.)

Here are some pics, very happy to get this machine. And the $45 was reduced to $22.50 since I stopped by on last day of sale!

So far, all I've done is one load of regular wash, one small load on PermaPress( which seems to WASTE TONS of water with all those cool down fills)

This model is 2 speed, 4 wash levels, 4 buttons for temperature combinations( but so far with one small load, it seems as though PermaPress gives cold rinses, overrides the warm rinse in this cycle????)

Also, the fill spray/rinse spray seems aimed at base of the tub, then gets thrown at only bottom row of clothes for the spray/spin/rinse, and the deep rinse comes up with plenty of soap and then no more spray rinsing or ability to opt for a second rinse. Anyhows, every model has good/bad points, what the hell.
Does anyone know the age from that serial number?

Here are some pics, and more comments as I post them all--

Post# 479825 , Reply# 3   12/6/2010 at 10:14 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
A608 Maytag

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The machine was sitting tight against the drain tubs, spray from the drain probably hit it for some 40 years.

Post# 479826 , Reply# 4   12/6/2010 at 10:15 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag center-dial

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more pics

Post# 479827 , Reply# 5   12/6/2010 at 10:17 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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Post# 479828 , Reply# 6   12/6/2010 at 10:23 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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Some thread here said 608 is one step below TOL. I know the very top line was all pushbuttons, but can't exactly figure what else is missing from this, seems relatively TOL to me, 4 temp buttons, 2 speed, 4 water levels.

It says HEavy Duty right on it, and the Agitator has 4 slots x 4 sides for the lint removal system, which I think means deep tub/extra capacity instead of 3 slot models.

As you can see, control panel is one-piece with no lights, and I don't think there any tub light----Correct me if wrong, a light would be fun.

And I'm gonna leave the $45 price tag, actual was $22.50 last day of sale, and it worked the instant I plugged in/hosed in. The paint and sides need some work, sounds like a mid-winter quiet evening project for me, cool.

Post# 479833 , Reply# 7   12/6/2010 at 10:27 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
608 Maytag 2 speed washer

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The lint filter was CAKED with crap, this picture shows it already through a Hotpoint dishwasher once, and a toothbrush cleaning too, but I think I need a gallon of vinegar and an overnight soak. Anyone know how well these did or didn't work?

Also, that little center-spin cup for softener-----I imagine it works on regular cycle high speed, but I bet it gets defficient on PermPress with all those extra spins, and probably not quite up-to-par for gentle speed?

Post# 479835 , Reply# 8   12/6/2010 at 10:28 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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Like I said, painting will be a winter project

Post# 479839 , Reply# 9   12/6/2010 at 10:39 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Final pic

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My guess is I'll be on Regular for 99% of the time, sort of surprised it only has ten minutes. And that missing chrome piece in the center there is the only missing thing I've noticed, so far. Lots of stuff is pitted and rusty, but it's there.

So, for my first Maytag, I'm glad it's a classic center dial and heavy duty, very impressed with its working abilities for its age and pricetag, slightly disappointed in rinses. But, since I already own an Easy SpinDrier, a Hoover Twin Tub #0519, and a 1940-s Speed Queen wringer washer, it's damn nice to have a vintage Maytag to accompany them instead of the 4 year old Admiral BOL POS I bought one penniless weekend at Home Depot. Actually, that dull machine has been entirely trustworthy and handles large loads, but it's just one speed and not a single bell or whistle at all. On sale for $270 in 07 or so, so not really a bad deal at the time. I believe the Home Depot "Admiral" is a privately labeled Amana, not 100% sure.

Post# 479842 , Reply# 10   12/6/2010 at 10:55 (2,877 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

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When I get my Maytags, I always remove the front and watch for any leaks that may be causing the rust on the outside. Their jet spray nozzles are usually the cause. They ware out from the stretching of the outer rubber sock and can spray water everywhere. The other thing I look at are the sides of the inner shell for any oil that may be leaking and depositing on to it.If that's happening,and the machine is in good physical shape, I will replace its tub seal.Once all is ready to go, I run a real hot wash using either Spray-9 or meuratic acid to thoroughly clean and disinfect the inner and outer tubs and clean out all deposits that may have built up inside the tubs and pump. I put on a new set of belts,new hoses and refinish the shell with fresh glossy enamel paint.I use a brush,not spray.

Post# 479850 , Reply# 11   12/6/2010 at 11:14 (2,877 days old) by mistereric (USA)        

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The next stop up would have been an 806. You'd get to set speed for agitation and spin independent of each other, and also get to choose wash and rinse temps seperately. And a tub light and chrome trim strip on earlier models.

CX = December 1979

The lint filter in my 806 works pretty well (after having been decrudded. Its nothing earth shattering but works better than I'd expect.

Enjoy the machine!

Post# 479865 , Reply# 12   12/6/2010 at 12:11 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag A608

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MisterEric and Laundromat----thank you for advice and input, very much. Here's more pics inside:

I was AMAMZED at the amount of rust, but all these pics were taken during the third of 3 back-to-back washes, and not a drop of water anywhere. Check down the thread when you see the newer tub-to-pump hose, only new thing on this machine. So I believe the rust was from some era just before it got replaced, and no current leaks anywhere. I knelt right in front for 5 minutes during extra-large wash and top-speed spray rinse, not a drop anywhere, so I might leave well enough alone for a bit.

Post# 479866 , Reply# 13   12/6/2010 at 12:12 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
rusty 608 maytag

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Post# 479867 , Reply# 14   12/6/2010 at 12:14 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
608 Maytag

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Plenty of leaks/drips/oversuds through the years, but this pic taken after 3 back-to-back washes, bone dry interior

Post# 479869 , Reply# 15   12/6/2010 at 12:17 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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I'll wipe this clean before re-assembly, but it's dry right now

Post# 479871 , Reply# 16   12/6/2010 at 12:20 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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Did I type 806 earlier? Sorry, it's pure 608

More interior rust. Also, the bleach dispenser----there's no solenoid or anything, I guess this just released bleach to the bottom of the tub, hopefully to mix with incoming water, instead of pouring on top and potential damage to clothes? I always thought there was a valve of some sort, didn't know it was just a bottom-feed tube. Picture--and me--are on our sides, sorry

Post# 479873 , Reply# 17   12/6/2010 at 12:25 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag 608

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Not best pic, but you can see the recent(not by me) new tub-to-pump hose, and the rusty original drain hose connection. Not a drop underneath, so I won't touch it for now. I'm getting together a short list of needs, fortunately quite short, and then will do a semi-tear-down/paint/hose/belt job this winter

Post# 479876 , Reply# 18   12/6/2010 at 12:28 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Nice Maytag, bad picture

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HEre's the fill/spray area, not a drop of leakage. One of you helpful gents advised a good look at that, but I don't see problems, and I stuck my head and camera in while spray-rinsing at top speed, not a drop anywhere but in the tub as planned.

Post# 479878 , Reply# 19   12/6/2010 at 12:33 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Fantastic Maytag 608

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Ok, I take back ALL those little complaints I had as I learned this machine. No other automatic I've owned did this thick double-bed comforter without me pushing and pulling it down by hand for some minor turnover. This Maytag WONDERFUL HEAVY DUTY 608 took care of that beast wonderfully, I just watched and stayed dry. Gentle speed did nothing but shake it around, normal speed had continous turnover throughout the cycle. So, that is my ultimate test, and that one load there does beat my beloved Hoover Twin Tub and my Easy SpinDrier, I admit.

Post# 479879 , Reply# 20   12/6/2010 at 12:35 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Rusty but working well 608 Maytag

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front interior, criminy!

Umm, I turn the pics 90 degreees in Picasa, but they stay on wrong side when I upload. HMmmmm

Post# 479881 , Reply# 21   12/6/2010 at 12:44 (2,877 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
608 'Tag interior

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The simplicity (and rust) amazes me. I'd love to learn the intricacies of a suds-saver model someday, but so far I'm getting more and more impressed with the stability and simplicity of this machine. I guess the excellence is all in the 2 speeds and the many buttons, the timer, wash levels, etc etc. The actual mechanics are pretty straight-forward and long-lasting.
I did a load of 4 throw rugs, heavy %#@*& things, and the machine just quietly stood there humming along, no difficulty at all, no knocks and small earthquakes like other machines. So, I am now Maytag convinced, glad to have it, and well worth $22.50, and looking forward to folks' advice and a de-rust/repaint project after the holidays! It's already white and I'm pretty color-blind, so white it will remain. Sure does also look like it's time to repaint that old basement floor, too, eh?

Post# 479884 , Reply# 22   12/6/2010 at 13:07 (2,877 days old) by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Mark, you have fallen in love with Maytags for all the same reasons I did.

Enjoy the machine. It's clear that even years of accumulated rust couldn't kill it. That's a Maytag for you!

Post# 479887 , Reply# 23   12/6/2010 at 13:43 (2,877 days old) by mistereric (USA)        

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Good lord thats a rusty gal! Thanks for making me feel a little better about my beast. :-)

Post# 479894 , Reply# 24   12/6/2010 at 14:47 (2,877 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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I think I need a tetanus shot after looking at the pics of that old gal, lol ;)


Post# 479961 , Reply# 25   12/6/2010 at 21:21 (2,876 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

a little cleanup needed,but a nice score for $22.50!
(i got my '65 MT for $2.00-it had a seized pump,so i got a
really good deal on mine LOL)
Dec.'79 must be one of the very last center dials?
Alot of the mess looks like it might be suds boil-over LOL

Post# 479972 , Reply# 26   12/6/2010 at 22:56 (2,876 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
repairs to A608

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In removing the front and tilting up the top, it also turns out that in addition to the tub-to-pump hose being recent, the fill/air gap hose assy is newer and shiny too. With 5 loads now done and not a drop of water inside the cabinet, I'm guessing strongly that the rust problem from the 2 hoses is over, just needs cleaned and repainted. Also, the water level buttons are shiny pure white in comparison to all other buttons that are sort of yellowed with age. So, for a 30 year old machine, those are 3 minor repairs, not a bad service record at all.
Can anyone tell me year of production from Maytag A608 Serial #618214-CX?

Post# 479976 , Reply# 27   12/6/2010 at 23:33 (2,876 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Can anyone tell me year of production from Maytag A608 Seria

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Dec 1979

You may want to find a tall tub donor machine and just swap the top and console over. That's a whole lotta work to perform.....unless you're up for a big challenge.

Post# 480044 , Reply# 28   12/7/2010 at 07:50 (2,876 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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All the rust you are seeing is from chronic oversudsing where the suds foam up and just drool down over the tub. We have seen many abused machines like this over the years. I would enjoy it as it is and as Dan suggested look for a rust free donor machine, there are hundreds of good MTs being crushed every day that are in great shape. In fact we have a mid 80s large tub MT suds-saver washer at the warehouse now that needs a home the first $50 or more can have it, its in good condition and works.

Post# 480055 , Reply# 29   12/7/2010 at 08:45 (2,876 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        
Good Heavens!

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And I thought I had it bad when I did mine. I don't envy you. Good Luck.

Post# 480070 , Reply# 30   12/7/2010 at 10:26 (2,876 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Rusty A608

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I'm not expecting I'll ever get this thing pristine, showroom new, that's quite OK with me. It's gonna work for me in a 94 year old basement with cobwebs and spiders. My plan is just to remove the cabinet entirely, sand it like hell inside and out, primer and 2 topcoats. That interior base will require a steel brush, etc, then primer and paint. I enjoy watching some of you guys with picture threads of perfect restorations, but my interest and budget will both live fine with a reasonable clean-up. Everything is intact and works perfectly, except that plastiChrome center of the dial.

For a $22.50 original investment, and probably more than that again in paint, it'll look far better than when it dropped rust on every step headed down to the basement.

I've been on and one other site, downloaded grainy diagrams of all the different systems in that machine, all I need is that chrome center and elbow grease from lots of elbows! And I never go crazy with cups and cups of detergent, that oversuds crap won't come back and overflow again.

Post# 480082 , Reply# 31   12/7/2010 at 10:50 (2,876 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag belts

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One question though-----belts look solid and fine shape, the agitator turns over very heavy loads, the spinning seems plenty speedy enough for average toploaders even when doing rugs and towels, and I've read various threads here about "belt clutch" and motor springs taking up the slack and designed to be loose, so:

Belts are looser than hell!!! That's expected? Is there a specific expected and measurable deflection, the way belt tension is measured? Like I said, she's running fine under any/all conditions I've loaded her up with yet!.


Post# 480083 , Reply# 32   12/7/2010 at 10:54 (2,876 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Hi Mark

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Looks like we've got the same mess ! Eddie

Post# 480115 , Reply# 33   12/7/2010 at 13:14 (2,876 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
loose belts

loose belts probably caused by a seized or stiff motor carrage
-might need "broken loose"and worked some to free it up...

Post# 480171 , Reply# 34   12/7/2010 at 18:30 (2,876 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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The pump belt is supposed to be very loose the main drive belt is also under very tension but the motor carriage should move easily and the rollers should be intact. If it moves stiffly shout some turbine oil on the rollers and work the motor back and forth until it moves easily.

Post# 480231 , Reply# 35   12/8/2010 at 00:07 (2,875 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Akronman, if it works well enough for you, its fine. If your planned installation will hide the sides, you might luck out and find a junker to get a front panel in better shape and the chrome plug for the timer knob. You mentioned drain tubs, was this machine in a basement? Your porcelain top is in great shape. I went to buy a sofa at an estate sale and brought home a fabrimatic small tub for $50. Enjoy your Maytag for what it is, it is evident that they installed some new hoses as you pointed out. So at least some maintenance was performed over the years. alr2903

Post# 480247 , Reply# 36   12/8/2010 at 01:29 (2,875 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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If the belts look ok, they're probably fine. When the belts have a lot of wear, they'll emanate a "whine" (particularly the pump belt) that can only be experienced, not described. Proper operation of the motor carriage is essential to a happy and properly functioning Maytag, so replacing the rollers and springs along with cleaning/lubing the tracks with poly lube (please, don't use turbine oil. It will attract dirt and can also work its way to the belts) is highly recommended.

Here's a genuine Maytag kit with rollers, springs, and poly lube for cheap.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay

Post# 480266 , Reply# 37   12/8/2010 at 05:56 (2,875 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag motor kit

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Thanks QSD-Dan, when I saw the Ebay price of $2.40, I just hit the "BuyNow" key immediately.

You, and others, have been very helpful, and I'm having fun!


Post# 480366 , Reply# 38   12/8/2010 at 14:41 (2,875 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag Lid Stop Switch

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Like any good member here, I always undo the lid switch first thing so I can WATCH WATCH WATCH. BUT, it seems like the Maytag A608 has both lid switch and unbalance switch as one unit? If my investigations are correct so far, then I will be safer and smarter and not jumper wire around the switch, I will leave it as is and use my 1/2 clothespin "Excellence in Engineering" fix to be able to watch the action. Some expert please confirm this?

Also--thanks to Dan and Combo52 and alr2903 and other helpful folks----Motor carriage rollers, springs, poly lube are coming in the mail, but I checked already and motor moves easily approx 3/8 inch and springs right back. During cleanup and derust/repaint, I will most assuredly clean up the 2 part carriage and install the new kit, it looks easy, but for now all still seems well with belts/motor movement, etc

During continued watching while running and flashlight inspection with the front removed, it certainly looks like TONS of previous owner oversudsing went on for ages and ages, all down the sides of the outer tub. Now wiped clean and will stay that way, no inches of suds on top of water for me!
So, newer tub hose and fill hose were installed at some point, and no more excess suds, it now looks as though my horrid rust CAUSE is over and done, just needs cleaned up and repainted. Ummm, how dumb can some folks be?????

Still amazed at how perfectly well she operates with all that rusty damage through the years, takes a licking and still keeps ticking!

Post# 480821 , Reply# 39   12/10/2010 at 19:49 (2,872 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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MT used an inferior plastic material for thier motor rollers and lid hinge balls in the 1960s and as a result all of the original rollers and lid balls crumbled and broke. They changed to a much better material in the 1970s after this time motor rollers no longer would break. Originally they thought the reason for the breakage was due to the fact they used regular petroleum grease on the rollers in the 1960s. So they recommended using only Polylube on the rollers which is better for plastics, and if you have Polyube handy I would use it. But turbine oil works just fine on any MT rollers that are still in use, we have been using it for over 30 years without any problems what so ever. Turbine oil will no more likely seep through the steel base plate of the washer and get on the belts than PL nor will it be anymore likely to attract dirt, sometimes I don't know where you come up with things Dan.

Post# 481424 , Reply# 40   12/13/2010 at 15:02 (2,870 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Maytag A608 partial restore

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Well, when motor carriage parts arrived, I dug further into my A608-----wire brushed inside the cabinet, vacuumed, wiped down, dried overnight, then Rustoleum inside and out primer then 2 topcoats, but I put it all together again before I remembered camera, sorry no interior shots.

I continued washing clothes during some portions of this weekend project, seems to be 2 drops of water from the fill/water gap doodad every other load or so, I don't think that's the total breakdown of that cheapie plastic item I've heard tell of, so I just closed the top up and will ignore temporarily.
Anyhows, not at all a complete restore job, but very spruced up and no rust inside or out, new motor carriage rollers/springs/lube, 2 new tinnerman snaps for front, check up this thread for rusty before pics, here's 2 after painting. I still have half a can left, my guy has better eyes for color and will advise another coat or not.
There's tons better restoreres out there, I'm learning the task and sticking within a budget.

Post# 481426 , Reply# 41   12/13/2010 at 15:05 (2,870 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
last pic

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other side---and I still can't get pix to stay upright/clockwise/etc, sorry. Near the base, on both sides, looks better in person but not perfect, I think I'm getting grey floor reflections

Post# 481491 , Reply# 42   12/13/2010 at 20:23 (2,869 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Looks Great

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After the New Year, I have to get going on The Coppertone 606s.

Paint Job looks Really Good.

Post# 481505 , Reply# 43   12/13/2010 at 21:19 (2,869 days old) by fordtech ()        

Great machines. Under the hood they look the same for a long time, 8,10, and 12 series. There is a nice 12 series pair on Craigslist local here for 100 bux. I wish I had a huge barn just to set up a collection.

I had a 712 pair from 1985-2001 and wish I would have kept them. Just one minor no cost repair in 17 years.
Ive always wanted the center dial one just for nostalgia with a light up console.

Post# 976851 , Reply# 44   1/4/2018 at 14:49 (291 days old) by dianam (Southern California)        

Hello - My beloved A608 went out and the Sears Home Repair technician said the transmission and timer had to be replaced. Transmission would cost $726+tax = $800 + $450 installation + $200 more for gearcase and some other part. Subtotal $1,450 without the timer, which he said was no longer available.

Found the timer, with knob, on eBay for $113, which should be delivered next week, and watched a video on how easy it would be to install myself. Trying to find a transmission for less than $800. No success so far.

Just found a working A608 on Craigslist 500 miles away for $100. Trucking cost would be around $200.

Question: Does anyone here think I should get the used A608, or would you instead recommend this new metal Maytag produced in Maytag's Commercial Factory in Ohio?

Kirk Rivas, an appliance guy in Austin Texas, has uploaded SEVENTEEN videos showing the new Maytag MVWP575GW in action through entire cycles with the lid open. Looks like a great machine. Here is one of his videos:

Big box stores don't carry the new model. I've already ordered the new model from Designer Appliances, a dealer with 3 New Jersey showrooms and the best online price I found - $719 plus $119 shipping = $838. No tax. List is $899. Will take about 10 days to get to California.

But what about the used A608 500 miles away? Should I forget about it or get it and store in "just in case?" I am really, really fond of that machine. The only thing I like better about the new model is that it has a 17" basket opening rather than the 13 1/2" opening on the A608.

Thank you for any thoughts you might have. Love all the valuable advice and insights I've found from you experts here.

P.S. Akronman, the original poster, asked what year his A608 was made. His serial number ended in CX. Found a Maytag chart indicating C stood for 1978 and X stood for December, so December, 1978. Mine ended in EG = April, 1980.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 7         View Full Size
Post# 976855 , Reply# 45   1/4/2018 at 15:39 (291 days old) by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

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I'm no expert, but I can tell you with assurance that an A608 would have far more cycle flexibility than the new Maytag. You actually get to select the water level on the old A608, the new MT has only two options, Full Fill and Automatic load Sense. If you have the space to store the new A608, I say get it, you have nothing to lose.

As something final to say, I have my doubts about what the Sears Technician said, in today's world, sadly, many service men just make up a bunch of rubbish just to get out of servicing an older machine.

What is exactly wrong with the transmission? If it is just leaking a little oil, you could probably get a few more years out of it.

Post# 976861 , Reply# 46   1/4/2018 at 16:12 (291 days old) by dianam (Southern California)        

Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what, if anything, is wrong with the transmission. Another repairman told me he found it suspicious that two parts would go out at the same time.

When the timer arrives, I'll install it and see if the washer works. If not, then there is probably something wrong with the transmission.

The young Sears repairman said the washer was older that he was. I didn't have a lot of confidence in him, but he was able to consult by phone with someone more expert than he is.

Would you still recommend buying the A608 I found on Craigslist?

Post# 976865 , Reply# 47   1/4/2018 at 17:09 (291 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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DianaM:  Transmission would cost $726+tax = $800 + $450 installation + $200 more for gearcase and some other part.
The transmission is sometimes referred to as the gearcase ... there's nothing else "gear"-related on a 608 other than the transmission, so seems a mystery what your servicer meant regards to the two separate items.  Maybe the tub brake assembly? (which may not be needed).

Your 608 has what's called a "pitman"-style transmission.  New replacements are NLA (but it can possibly be repaired depending on what's wrong).  The substitution is the newer "orbital"-style transmission which has a shorter/faster agitation stroke.  I find $238 at one online source.

Post# 976868 , Reply# 48   1/4/2018 at 17:29 (291 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Price on the 608 is OK, but shipping is going to kill you. Road trip time?

Post# 977031 , Reply# 49   1/5/2018 at 19:34 (289 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
Just found a working A608 on Craigslist 500 miles away for $

If the "trans" is the problem, any helical drive, tall tub trans from a Maytag Dependable Care washer up to about the late 80's 12 series will swap right in.
No need to find another A608 for donor parts.

However, servicing the trans involves quite bit of work. Good news is you get to replace the stem/boot seal and tub bearing, two items that will wear out sooner or later anyway and may well be part of the problem.

Here is a nice A610 (or 710), could be used as is or for parts.

Post# 977253 , Reply# 50   1/7/2018 at 01:18 (288 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

askolover's profile picture

That new "Maytag" ain't no Maytag!  Under the sheet metal it's all Whirlpool.

Post# 977269 , Reply# 51   1/7/2018 at 03:45 (288 days old) by dianam (Southern California)        

Very interesting A610 for sale, and at a great price! Not too far away, either. Thanks for the find.

Tried to install the timer I got on eBay, with knob that looks identical to the A608, but that eBay part is 2-4476-1, whereas mine is 2-04476-3. They're not alike at all. Looks like the 2-4476-1 is for model A606.

Would that even work in a model A608?

The first 2 photos below are of the used eBay timer 2-4476-1; the last 4 are of the original installed timer, 2-04476-3.

I'm not sure how to proceed, if at all. The new Maytag Commercial washer is on its way from New Jersey, and there is a working model similar to the A608 still for sale in a neighboring state.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 977282 , Reply# 52   1/7/2018 at 08:38 (288 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

AFAIK, as  long as you have the same terminals on each timer, you should be good to go. The timers look like they were sourced from different manufacturers.

Post# 977283 , Reply# 53   1/7/2018 at 08:39 (288 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Maytag Washer Timers, Hi Diana The two timers you have are completely interchangeable, they are just made by two different vendors for MT, you just have to attach the wires to the same numbered terminals.


John L.

Post# 977327 , Reply# 54   1/7/2018 at 14:33 (288 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        
Maytag Commercial washer is on its way from New Jersey

So you already ordered a new washer??

By the way, that CL Maytag is an A710 (one model below the TOL A810), my mistake.

Post# 977354 , Reply# 55   1/7/2018 at 18:43 (288 days old) by dianam (Southern California)        

Yes, I actually ordered a Speed Queen January 3, 2018, after being persuaded they were better machines and losing hope my A608 could be repaired.

Then I read the reviews on the 2018 Speed Queen. Oh boy!

Hadn't even heard about the Maytag Commercial MVWP575GW until I saw a comparison of that model with SQ on an obscure laundry company [Lyon Appliance] blog. The author said they were similar but gave the nod to Maytag.

Thank goodness the N.J. appliance dealer hadn't yet put it on a truck and was able to switch the order to the Maytag Commercial residential model. That company's prices btw were below that of other dealers on both models, and they had excellent customer reviews, so it was a no-brainer to buy from them.

Even having to pay $119 for shipping (Speed Queen pays for shipping, Maytag does not), I will be getting a $41 refund for what will almost surely be a better machine.

However, I'm not quite ready to let go of the A608 yet. Forum member SpeedQueen pointed out the Maytag won't have as much flexibility re water level or rinse temperature as the A608. The seller of the working A608[?] has been too busy to check the model and serial number so I haven't had to make a decision whether to buy that or not.

Today I spent 38 minutes on the phone with Sears Home Repair Servies trying to get a simple question answered: How much would they charge to hook up the new washer?

Unbelievably, they switched me to SIX different people, 5 of which could not answer that simple question. You would think I was asking for one of their complex remodeling jobs they touted in the on-hold advertisement - which was better than the 'music' that was so awful I had to hold the receiver away from my ear the rest of the time on hold.

Told them their technician I paid $99 to look at the washer left two belts and a substantial-looking part on my laundry room floor, that it was either theirs or he neglected to put it back in the washer. (He also left his cell phone behind, and I had to run after him to give it to him.) That stymied them but good.

Had to tell the sixth guy 3 different times about the new washer. "Is it new?" he kept asking. Asked if I bought it at Sears, I replied it's a Maytag Commercial residential model Sears doesn't carry. "We don't install commercial washers," was his reply. "Well, it's a commercial model for residential use." Poor guy, he was so confused.

I mentioned I had a coupon for 20% off Sears Home Services total parts and labor, good through 3/31/18. He insisted it was good only if presented at a Sears store. I read him the complete text of the coupon, which said no such thing. It just said to present to a technician and gave the code for the technician to enter. We went around and around on that. Then he claimed the repair had to be prepaid. I told him that wasn't the case when the technician arived for an appointment on 12/29.

I believe the belts and part the technician left on the floor belong on my washer. What would you do?

Post# 977373 , Reply# 56   1/7/2018 at 20:03 (287 days old) by good-shepherd (New Jersey)        

I'd suggest cutting your losses with Sears, they already gave a questionable diagnoses on the A608.

Installing a washer is not a complicated job; Hot/cold water supply lines and the drain hose.
The hard part is lugging the machines in and out of the house. Any local handymen, plumbers or appliance dealers you could call?

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