Thread Number: 32284
Question on rebuilding a Maytag.
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Post# 486803   1/6/2011 at 16:38 (4,829 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        

volvoguy87's profile picture
A friend of mine has a Maytag A408 with a leaking center seal. I've got the parts to replace the seal. I also have the parts to replace the spin bearing. If the seal leaks, is it necessary to replace the spin bearing or is it a good idea at all if it doesn't sound like a freight train during spin? If I'm replacing the seal and bearing, as covered in Redcarpetdrew's post, would it be that much more work (or a good idea) to pull the transmission, open it up, replace the O-ring and change the oil just as a precaution?

Should I do all this work or just stick with the seal?
Dave





Post# 486834 , Reply# 1   1/6/2011 at 19:00 (4,829 days old) by MaytagMan806S ()        

Dave,

Pull the basket and drive hub and check the agitator shaft for a corroded or worn groove (on the sealing surface of the shaft) before you even pull the boot seal. If this happens, the water will go right past the agitator shaft seal (even though the seal might appear to be good), down onto the top cover of the transmission, and appear to be a boot seal leak. You might already know everything is left-hand thread. I have had at least 4 machines that have had this condition. The first was an 08 series (the machine I discovered this can happen on and I almost missed it) and the other 3 were 06's. That 08 really threw me, because I just tried to pass it off as bad parts. Well after having the tub out 2 times, finally the light came on. That's what I found. If this is the case, one of 3 options comes to mind. 1) a new shaft, 2) a replacement transmission and 3) we dont want to discuss.

I just don't want to see any of my friends tearing their hair out, if they have never heard of or have never seen this issue. Generally, it VERY RARELY happens. I even went so far as to say it couldn't happen. But, guess what? Simple physics applied here, and it did. That type of frustration I wouldn't wish on anyone.

Keep me posted and let me know how you do. If you find everything in decent repair, I would pull the tub and do the bearing. Noise or no noise. It's only 3 more screws and a little patience. One thing I would certainly recommend, is to put a very light coat of anti-seizing compound on all threaded surfaces, bearing surfaces, and the agitator shaft. I like to put a very small amount of grey automotive RTV sealer under the flanges of the mounting screws for the tub to prevent a potential leak point, then put it all together.

Best of luck.



Post# 487983 , Reply# 2   1/10/2011 at 15:49 (4,825 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Bearing.

volvoguy87's profile picture
If the spin bearing on a Maytag is quiet and the center seal is leaking water, should I just replace the seal and give the bearing some Zoom Spout, or should I replace the spin bearing? The washer is in regular, but light, use (not part of a collection) in a 1-person household and has been leaking for a few months.

Dave


Post# 488022 , Reply# 3   1/10/2011 at 18:19 (4,825 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT TOP SPIN BEARING

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Dave the spin bearing usually doesn't need replacement unless it is badly worn. Otherwise give it a generous oiling with light machine oil.

Post# 488097 , Reply# 4   1/10/2011 at 21:43 (4,825 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Great!

volvoguy87's profile picture
Will do, thanks John.

Dave


Post# 489233 , Reply# 5   1/15/2011 at 22:35 (4,820 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Update!

volvoguy87's profile picture
I think the seal beneath the tub clamp was leaking. There's a fair bit of staining indicative of water leaks down the outside of the outer tub. Also, the tub clamp screws were so rusty that I had to cut one to get the tub clamp off (after breaking my screwdriver trying to turn it). Anyone know what the specs on the tub clamp screws happen to be?

Aside from the tub clamp's rusted screws, everything else is going okay. The old tub seal is out and the new one is in. The inner tub is back in and it's properly alligned.

Now I just need screws to finish the job,
Dave


Post# 489331 , Reply# 6   1/16/2011 at 13:38 (4,820 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

Dave, you might try looking at the parts list on Sears Parts Direct. It may tell what size and type of screw they are.

Post# 489394 , Reply# 7   1/16/2011 at 19:06 (4,819 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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I have some spare screws I can send if you can't find the proper replacement(s).

Maytag used some really wacky sized screws/bolts that have funky thread pitches. Sometimes it's a real PITA to match something up without having to pillage another machine.


Post# 489700 , Reply# 8   1/17/2011 at 21:26 (4,818 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Found some.

volvoguy87's profile picture
I found out I can get the screws separately and they're cheap.
Thanks for the offer, we'll see how this turns out,
Dave



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