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Thread Number: 32362
80s Hotpoint Rim-flo washer - repair help please |
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| Post# 488159 , Reply# 1 1/11/2011 at 10:36 (4,852 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
Terry | ||
| Post# 488165 , Reply# 2 1/11/2011 at 11:04 (4,852 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA) | ||
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| Post# 488180 , Reply# 3 1/11/2011 at 11:58 (4,852 days old) by terryar () | ||
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Hi, thanks for responding! Tim, I didn't get an email from you yet. I've passed on the info. from Peter. I'll keep looking for the email. thanks, Terry | ||
Post# 488217 , Reply# 4 1/11/2011 at 14:12 (4,852 days old) by Volvoguy87  (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Clutch.
These washers have a one-speed motor to run the pump at full speed at all times. If your washer is a 2-speed, the agitation and spin speed change is achieved by a 2-speed clutch mounted on top of the motor, below the pump. NEVER change the speed while the washer is running!
Sometimes, the clutch gets noisy as it wears. This is more common if the pump has leaked for awhile, allowing the water to run down onto the clutch. (This happened on my GE Filter Flo, which has the same guts.) When mine leaked, the water displaced the oil from the clutch bearings. If it's not too worn, you may want to use some Zoom Spout Turbine Oil to oil the clutch bearings when you work on your washer. If you end up replacing the clutch, there's a relay you must replace or else the motor will soon burn out (I learned the hard way). On mine, the relay is located on the back of the washer right below the control panel. I didn't know how bad mine was. With the bad bearings, mine started to sound like a rock tumbler and the bad bearings wore a deep groove in the clutch shaft. Since I made the repair, my washer is pleasantly quiet, with only a slight sloshing of water running through the recirculation flume and a dull hum of the motor. The washer's a good one and not too difficult to work on. Dave | ||
| Post# 488226 , Reply# 5 1/11/2011 at 15:02 (4,852 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
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Oil and the clutch
I have to say that I wouldn't recommend putting oil anywhere near the clutch unless you know what you are oiling. Any oil that gets on the lining of the clutch will ruin it and it's possible that your washer will no longer agitate or spin afterwards.
This would be a better suggestion for some with more experience, but I gather that this would be a novice repair, and I dread working on the clutch even with my knowledge of them. Not saying that it's not possible that the machine needs this as well, but I say start with your pump and go from there and see what it does. We know the pump leaks, so a bad bearing/seal on that is possible to be the noise culprit. -Tim | ||
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Post# 488240 , Reply# 6 1/11/2011 at 16:01 (4,852 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Good point.
Only work with the clutch if you're pretty brave (and patient and methodical). Oil on the clutch lining and drum is indeed bad. The clutch is completely rebuildable and the bearings are replaceable. It's honestly easier to get an inexpensive new clutch on ebay, or from a parts supplier, and install it. (That darned roll pin which has to be removed to replace the clutch is admittedly a pain though.)
I've replaced my clutch and took apart the old one (and successfully put it back together). I even kept the old one to rebuild as my time allows. It's not that complicated, but after having had it apart and back together a few times, I still don't fully understand how the darned thing works. If you've never worked on machinery before, it's probably best to leave the clutch for another time. Thanks for pointing out how sensitive the clutch is to oil Tim. Dave | ||
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Post# 488248 , Reply# 7 1/11/2011 at 16:30 (4,852 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Tim and Dave are correct.....
a replacement clutch would be a better choice, should that be the problem......but you still have to tackle connecting it to the motor, and sliding the top of the clutch in place and put in THAT pesky pin......been there, done that all too often....the last one I tackled, I got lucky, local used parts house sold me the motor(with relay), rebuilt clutch, and a new pump, ready to install......and super quiet and quick to jump into high speed.......for 25.00.....well worth it.....may be an option if available | ||
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Post# 488264 , Reply# 8 1/11/2011 at 17:39 (4,852 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 488280 , Reply# 9 1/11/2011 at 18:19 (4,852 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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GE CLUTCHES & MOTORS
Yes differently don't go squirting oil on or in the clutch. Also the motor start relay only needs to be replaced if the motor failed because of a winding short, the relay has nothing to do with the clutch. Old relays can get sticky inside and cause a motor failure and you can squirt some contact cleaner lubricant in them if you want.
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| Post# 488909 , Reply# 12 1/14/2011 at 13:14 (4,849 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
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Lube
There are areas of the top panel and cabinet that can touch and rub (squeak). I pop the top open (2 clips in front with a putty knife) and take some Vaseline to the top of the cabinet. You should be able to see where the metal has rubbed a bit.
This is just what I did as my GE/Hotpoints did the same thing. -Tim | ||
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