Thread Number: 32632
Ironrite Mangle Help Please :-) |
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Post# 491814 , Reply# 1   1/27/2011 at 09:11 (4,831 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Found a pic |
Post# 491835 , Reply# 3   1/27/2011 at 10:57 (4,831 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Awesome! Thanks for the tips! It's my VERY FIRST piece of vintage laundry equipment...now if I can find myself a Westinghouse Laundromat I'll be set lol |
Post# 491837 , Reply# 4   1/27/2011 at 11:07 (4,831 days old) by westie2 ()   |   | |
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Be sure and carry it up right when you take it home. Laundress what else should he do.
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Post# 491843 , Reply# 6   1/27/2011 at 11:32 (4,831 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Thanks for the additional tips, I wasn't sure if I could even move it any other way but upright. What type of oil should I refill it with? I assume rewiring the cord is probably as simple as rewiring a lamp. |
Post# 491889 , Reply# 8   1/27/2011 at 14:13 (4,831 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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Wow, those are rarer than hen's teeth in this part of the country. Looks like a nice one. Where did you find it? |
Post# 492023 , Reply# 12   1/28/2011 at 05:47 (4,830 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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You know, my ex suggested that too! He's the artistic one, me? Not so much lol Since it'll be living in my library I'm thinking that may be the way to go. I'll be sure to post pix whenever I do it, though. |
Post# 492062 , Reply# 14   1/28/2011 at 09:02 (4,830 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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michaelman2, thanks for the great info, I'm such a nerd I can't wait to really read up on everything I can get! |
Post# 492116 , Reply# 15   1/28/2011 at 14:12 (4,830 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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When you get your ironer cleaned and set up, please let us know how your first ironing session went! |
Post# 494677 , Reply# 18   2/7/2011 at 13:03 (4,820 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)   |   | |
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I suggest looking in the yellow pages under Oils-Lubricating. A place that specializes in those products should have what you're looking for. The problem may be buying only a small quantity. |
Post# 494692 , Reply# 19   2/7/2011 at 14:11 (4,820 days old) by RocketWarrior ()   |   | |
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...or, maybe you could turn it into a Barbie Trailer. |
Post# 494739 , Reply# 22   2/7/2011 at 18:02 (4,819 days old) by sudslock1 (St Louis)   |   | |
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Here you go. You can buy it by the quart. CLICK HERE TO GO TO sudslock1's LINK This post was last edited 02/07/2011 at 21:38 |
Post# 494798 , Reply# 23   2/7/2011 at 21:08 (4,819 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Thanks! |
Post# 495023 , Reply# 24   2/8/2011 at 19:45 (4,818 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Got the cabinet off, the veneer is peeling, so I think I'll work if off in those places and refinish |
Post# 495025 , Reply# 25   2/8/2011 at 19:46 (4,818 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Post# 495026 , Reply# 26   2/8/2011 at 19:48 (4,818 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Not sure if you can tell, but it appears a tad rusted, michaelman2 mentioned Faultless Iron Cleaning Cream, hoping this may help otherwise I'll have to find a way to restore it to a shine. |
Post# 495027 , Reply# 27   2/8/2011 at 19:49 (4,818 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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Post# 495040 , Reply# 28   2/8/2011 at 20:14 (4,818 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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No, Faultless and or other cleaners for irons/ironers probably will have little to nil impact on that sort of damage. They are best used for removing starch and other soils from surfaces.
OTHO, rust is something that can start on a metal's surface then eat/work it's way downwards. Because the ironer shoe will heat and get hot, the usual methods for treating rust with special chemicals and or paints aren't an option. Only option that *may* work is having the thing replated, but don't even know how you would go about it. What can be done is after cleaning, smooth the surface down with the finest grade of steel wool or similar *GENTLE* abrasive, then apply ironer wax to the shoe. You want to remove as much rust as possible, while also protecting the surface from futher damage. I'd ditch the old burlap and start with new, using the old as a pattern. The Ironrite service manual tells how to attach. Pads for the 25" roller Ironrite are easy to find on fleaBay and elsewhere. |
Post# 495084 , Reply# 30   2/8/2011 at 21:42 (4,818 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Whatever you use.
Test in a small hidden area of the shoe before going whole hog. Should worse come to the worse, look around for another part to replace. Ironrites are allover the place, and of course there is the "Ironrite" guy on eBay. What you don't want to do is make scratches or worse on the soleplate. |
Post# 496827 , Reply# 31   2/16/2011 at 11:38 (4,811 days old) by takacedon (Salt Lake City)   |   | |
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I've got some left over from my car, I wonder if that'll work....and how to make sure it's all cleaned off afterwords... |