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Thread Number: 34023
Maytag Mounting Stem / Spin Bearing Question. |
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Post# 511140 4/12/2011 at 22:01 (5,030 days old) by Volvoguy87  (Cincinnati, OH) |
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I've replaced the mounting stem on a friend's Maytag before. It's well-explained in Redcarpetdrew's thread from a while ago. I have a few lingering questions though.
If you remove the boot seal and mounting stem to oil the spin bearing, can you put it all back or do you need a new mounting stem? I can't find the sub-part number for the old Maytag part #0A4298, the old-style seal. I saw a Whirlpool part float across my desk at work that looks like it, but I'll have to check my note at work in the morning. How would I use this seal in conjunction with a new mounting stem? Can this seal be replaced on an old mounting stem? Finally, how bad does a spin bearing have to be to necessitate replacement? Another friend of mine has a very early Orbital-drive regular capacity Maytag (2-speed) and the spin bearing makes some noise as it gets up to speed, then quiets down. Should this bearing be replaced, or can it be oiled? The joys of cranky machines, Dave CLICK HERE TO GO TO Volvoguy87's LINK | ||
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| Post# 511239 , Reply# 1 4/13/2011 at 08:27 (5,030 days old) by runematic (southcentral pa) | ||
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Post# 511263 , Reply# 2 4/13/2011 at 11:48 (5,030 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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That's what I saw at my desk! | ||
| Post# 511264 , Reply# 3 4/13/2011 at 11:57 (5,030 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
If the parts are still in good shape, you may be able to re-use them. Just clean them up and inspect first. Just think about changing/using a new shaft seal since you're there already...
You can use a Maytag where the bearing is a little noisy. When the noise stays there when up to speed, you pretty much have to fix it. Look at my thread and see the difference in tub bearings from underneath the tub. If it's the thick one, you can lube it with Zoom Spout and buy some (hopefully less noisy) time before digging in... I'm glad the how to thread I did is still living and helping. I've actually gotten E-Mail from people who needed help and searched the web to find that thread to thank me. (Blushing a little) Awwhttp://www... RCD | ||
| Post# 511265 , Reply# 4 4/13/2011 at 12:01 (5,030 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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Terms...
Helical is the old style transmission. Orbitals are the later types. You can use the shaft seals with both UNLESS you have a orbital rans with the white plastic shaft keeper. You can also use the shaft seal with the newer triple lip seal stem or just change it if you have the older style with the retaining clip and washer IF it's oherwise in good shape...
RCD | ||
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Post# 511350 , Reply# 5 4/13/2011 at 18:53 (5,029 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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HELICAL DRIVE MT WASHERS Came out in 1956 the the term helical drive referred to the way this newer design changed from wash to spin with the spiral-helical cut in the bottom of the agitator shaft. All two belt MT washers from 1956-2006 used the same system of switching from wash to spin. But it is correct that MT forgot thier history and the new MT company was so proud of the improved orbital transmission that they dropped the Helical name when this change was made. To me they will always be helical drive washers. There are five different style transmissions in this 50 year time period the 1956-1965 [ all were standard capacity ] transmission is not interchangeable with the later standard capacity transmissions. Then with the 06 series you had the large and standard units and again when the Orbital transmission was introduced around 1990 there was a large and standard cap trans also.
Trivia question in this 50 year run of Helical drive washers, I believe to be the longest of any washer design ever, Maytag only ever put one other brand name on thier Helical drive two belt machine in the US, what was the other brand name. I know you will get it Andy. | ||
| Post# 511402 , Reply# 6 4/14/2011 at 04:27 (5,029 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
Hmmmm.... | ||
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Post# 511416 , Reply# 7 4/14/2011 at 07:26 (5,029 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MALCOLM IS CORRECT I didn't know this myself until I was called to fix a Jenn-Air stack the other week and I got to thinking that MT never put any other name on thier Newton built laundry products. And there sat a 15 year old Jenn Air stack with the usual lid switch problem, which I quickly fixed and is back in service. | ||
| Post# 512130 , Reply# 8 4/18/2011 at 09:29 (5,025 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
Older Style Tub Bearing
Dave,
I think I told you before, but if the washer you're working on has the old style tub bearing that's big around and thick instead of the newer thin/skinny style bearing, you can use a hypodermic syringe and 18 gauge (I think. Mine has the pink base.) needle to inject 3 or 4 cc's of turbine oil into the bearing for smooth operation. The needle's small enough that the hole usually closes up when you pull it out. If you wanted to be sure, "DAP" makes a black silicone gasket sealant that you could use to smear a tiny dab over the needle hole. I think it's easier and better than slicing the bearing rubber with an exacto knife. I don't know if Drew has tried this or not. It worked well for me. Brian | ||
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