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Thread Number: 34054
RCA Whirlpool/Kenmore tub removal |
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Post# 511510 4/14/2011 at 18:11 (4,754 days old) by akronman  (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Horror stories on here of tub removal haven't happened to me YET. The hexagon agitator block came off pretty easily as did the spanner nut, about a half hour total. Also all 4 huge screws holding the tub to the baseplate.
I have unclamped the tub to filter pump port so I can lift out the exterior tub, but can't figure how the main drain hose is assembled into the tub, no clamps down below to undo except at the pump. Does that flange unscrew from inside the tub?? Also, the main large fitting, basket drive block? How does it come off? Theaded, or hammer it up gently? And you can see some small rubber bushing inside of it is bad. Anyone who wants to start listing new items I need to buy, I'll appreciate it. 
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Post# 511511 , Reply# 1 4/14/2011 at 18:13 (4,754 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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inner tub | ||
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Post# 511512 , Reply# 2 4/14/2011 at 18:14 (4,754 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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more | ||
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Post# 511513 , Reply# 3 4/14/2011 at 18:15 (4,754 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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more | ||
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Post# 511515 , Reply# 4 4/14/2011 at 18:32 (4,754 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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things to buy | ||
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Post# 511517 , Reply# 5 4/14/2011 at 18:56 (4,754 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Mark -
I don't believe those tub plugs are still available, but the guy who intially got me into this 20 years ago said several times that they weren't necessary and not to worry about them. Machines from the 70s had the holes but no plugs. Eventually they didn't have the holes at all. John/Combo may want to chime in on that. I would clean the one you have and re-install it, or just leave it. The four neoprene washers for the tub bolts are part 21365 - recently NLA, but they were stupid expensive when they could be had at a couple bucks a piece! They were once 20-some cents each. Get the 76673 tub repair kit - they are better and usually cheaper. Does your machine have the manifold trap at the tub outlet under the baseplate? If so, the outlet hose you need is part 93553 and widely available still. If not, you may have some trouble. The manifold was used since the early 60s, at least, so parts from something earlier may be tough to scrounge. The centerpost gasket is part 383727 now and is out there everywhere. Every direct drive washer used one of these, as did most all belt drives, but for older ones the design and part number changed a time or two. Your original may be more substantial, but the newer one is a replacement. Be careful removing your old outer tub. Loosen it slowly and with care. It may be stuck to the baseplate at each of the mounting screw locations. Clean the centerpost as best you can, make sure there aren't any rust protrusions that are too bumpy to pass under the tub gasket, and lubricate the centerpost heavily with hand soap so that when you lift the tub, it will slide easily. You will be surprised how much easier this is with the soap or something else slippery on there. Again, take care with this - the collar that the 383727 gasket mounts to often rusts or cracks, and rough handling of the tub for removal can make damage in this area worse. The older outer tubs were thickest and had the best porcelain coatings on them, but you don't want to break off even a part of this lip - if too much of it is gone the tub will never re-seal properly again. I have epoxied small areas, but nothing major. Finally, your washer has a replacement transmission. The splined agitator shaft is years newer than the machine, but that's what is cool with these belt-drives - many of the innovations WP came up with during the production run could be retrofitted into existing machines. Gordon | ||
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Post# 511526 , Reply# 6 4/14/2011 at 20:16 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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tub
I don't have the manifold/button trap, just a direct hose. Frankly, nothing wrong with it, I believe that some cleanup and silicone epoxy during installation of the tub may do the trick, not sure yet. But see pics, the flange did not have any washer between itself and the tub interior, seems to me it was tha main source of leaking. The leak was on top of the plate, no evidence of leak below at all.
I cleaned up the main silver shaft nicely before removing the tub, and was careful in pulling straight up and being gentle. The center hole doesn't look bad, but I will not be removing that donut washer assembly until a new one arrives. Those 4 washers 76673 are "in my cart" at Sears Direct, as is 383727. 
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Post# 511527 , Reply# 7 4/14/2011 at 20:17 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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leaks, washers | ||
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Post# 511528 , Reply# 8 4/14/2011 at 20:21 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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base plate
The base plate shows various leaaks thru the years, but in my 2 weeks with this, it strongly seems like current leaks are from the sump hose port and the screw near the bottom of the picture. All washers, both internal and external to the tub, will be new. Umm, 76673---is that the black neoprene inside the tub, or the small felt/cork between the tub and baseplate? I'll need all new for sure.
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Post# 511529 , Reply# 9 4/14/2011 at 20:23 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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center post gasket | ||
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Post# 511531 , Reply# 10 4/14/2011 at 20:34 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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transmission
Gordon---it seems like your suggestion is more towards a good, non-leaking replacement tranny than me rebuilding, I'd be happy to go the easy route. Should I just remove and start dialing up local repair shops to see if someone kept a spare thru the years? Any estimate of what I might expect to pay? One search on Ebay was only finding DD type transmissions. That will wait until after the weekend.
I doubt I'll have probelms opening the motor and cleaning and oiling wicks, etc, seems like lots of motors I've seen, the capacitor type 2 speed. And at some point in the midst of all this tub work and tranny, while it's so dismantled, I'll be doing a new paint job inside and out, so this overall project will take a while. From what I've seen so far, I can't imagine I can't seal the tub. Gordon and Combo and Yogi-Martin, thanks for advice and help so far! This is a cool and rare machine, it won't end up my daily driver due to size, but I believe it deserves to be fully functional and get the occasional medium load of shirts and shorts, I'll save the towels and jeans and throw rugs for Filter Flo or Maytag. 
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| Post# 511533 , Reply# 11 4/14/2011 at 21:09 (4,753 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but shouldn't you also replace the seals and bearings in the spintube and centerpost? | ||
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Post# 511546 , Reply# 12 4/14/2011 at 21:43 (4,753 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Mark -
Your centerpost gasket is very much leaking, and big-time. It's where all that detergent trail has come from at the centerpost heading toward the side and back of the baseplate. Your washer was indeed a gusher, but you've done the hard part! Putting it back together is the fun part. As to the transmission, I was in a hurry to go to the gym when I wrote before, but yes, if you can locate a good replacement gearcase, you can do a swap vs. re-doing that one. BUT, if you are as capable as you seem to be, I wouldn't let the clean-up of the one you have scare me, and you know it works. A replacement may hand you another set of issues if you can't test it first. BD gearcases are probably out there and not that hard to find, but no doubt not as plentiful as they were ten years ago. Other than an obvious functionality test, you need to be sure on a replacement that the agitator shaft springs are not broken. Melvin mentioned the spin tube and agitator shaft seals - YES, ABSOLUTELY, they need to be replaced, especially with as gutted as you will have the machine. It's the perfect time to do it. Your agi. shaft seal in the pic above looks like it's coming apart in chunks already. Since there could already be water contamination in your gearcase, do not finish the machine without replacing those seals. I was not going to bring that up until you hit that area of work. I don't remember the two seal part numbers right off but I will or will look them up. The top centerpost/bearing seal is easy to replace. The agitator shaft seal on the basket drive takes a little finesse. On the tub repair kit, four bolts / washers / neoprene pads come in one kit. That rusty tub mount screw won't see water again for a long time. The tub pads in between the tub and the baseplate are very thin cardboard in later machines, cork (I think) in earlier ones. These prevent metal to metal contact on the porcelain tub. I may have been a goober, but I have cut index cards or file folders to replace these vs. buying new ones. That may be about the only non-FSP parts I put in my machines, lol. Gordon | ||
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Post# 511555 , Reply# 13 4/14/2011 at 22:06 (4,753 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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spintube and centerpost seals, bearings
Oh yes I know they need to be replaced, I was just dealing with tubleak parts for now. Throw the PN's at me and I will order them.
Gordon--you are correct that another used tranny might be another problem, I don't yet now what I'll do there. I'll continue posting, but done for tonight, and Thanks Thanks Thanks | ||
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