Thread Number: 34705
New acquisition: 1969 GE FilterFlo Washer - Beginning the Dissassembly and Restoration
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Post# 520390   5/25/2011 at 14:22 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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On May 6, 2011, I was searching the Chicago area Craigslist ads, and came across an ad for a Washer and Gas Dryer, posted April, 29, 2011. There was a single small photo of a GE Washer and Dryer. The ad stated that the units were older, and the picture confirmed that, but I wasn’t sure how old. I wrote to the seller asking for the Model/Serial Number of the Washer. The next day, he wrote back stating that according to the literature he still had, the Model was WA743E, but he copied the Model number down wrong as: 1WA 1WA 74 F2W. I also wrote the seller asking for close-up photos of the washer and dryer console, plus a shot inside the washer, and he complied. On May 8, I consulted with Ken (bajaespuma) since he and I had communicated in the past about GE laundry products. I thought these machines were from 1978, but Ken was able to pinpoint them as models produced in 1969 based on the model information the seller provided and the photos which I forwarded. Ken and I talked talked about these machines, but I really needed to see them for myself. The seller was available on Thursday, May 12, so I agreed to drive up to Aurora to have a look. So Thursday morning as planned, I made the 2 ˝ drive to Aurora. I was very pleased, seeing no oil dripping and the machines in pretty good condition. We haggled, and I agreed to buy the pair for $140. Now I know that the Model is: 1WA743E2W and S/N is: RD125395 (August 1969).

With the Washer and Dryer still on my pickup truck, I started to do some preliminary clean-up work. Then On Sunday, May 15, I prepared to give the washer a full water test. I filled the washer nearly full with hot water and let it stand for 30 minutes or so. In the meantime, I started looking for problems. I did find a slow drip coming from about the 5 o’clock position. But I continued to run the test, which was very successful. The following video is an edited down version of what transpired over about an hour or so. The drip continued during the test, but did not change in volume. As I had been cleaning, I did see some rust in the bottom of the outer tube, so I concluded that the transmission boot was likely the source of the leak. Next step – search for the leak.

SO, I am starting this thread to document this Washer and Dryer, AND the Disassembly and Restoration of the Washer.

First some overall pictures taken before the clean-up process began, and then the Video will follow. AND the disassembly has been completed, with much of the cleanup complete, or in progress. Next, as I will discuss further down, I will begin the repair work to the outer tub.

Lastly, I would appreciate any advice you might have, as I progress through this restoration project.

Mike
(Oh boy, Dishwashercrazy working on a Washer!)






Post# 520391 , Reply# 1   5/25/2011 at 14:24 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Controls


Post# 520392 , Reply# 2   5/25/2011 at 14:25 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Dial


Post# 520393 , Reply# 3   5/25/2011 at 14:25 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Options


Post# 520394 , Reply# 4   5/25/2011 at 14:26 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Lid Open


Post# 520395 , Reply# 5   5/25/2011 at 14:29 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Money Shot! The Mini-Basket and the Filter Pan were missing, but I have both, plus, I think I have a complete Ramp Agitator and Mini-Basket that will work too.


Post# 520396 , Reply# 6   5/25/2011 at 14:30 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Down below.


Post# 520397 , Reply# 7   5/25/2011 at 14:31 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Dryer Console


Post# 520398 , Reply# 8   5/25/2011 at 14:32 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Dial


Post# 520399 , Reply# 9   5/25/2011 at 14:33 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Drum


Post# 520400 , Reply# 10   5/25/2011 at 14:37 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        
GE Filter Flo Washer Video

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Here is the video made on May 15, 2011.




Post# 520404 , Reply# 11   5/25/2011 at 15:00 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        
Dissassembly Started

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Well, my first problem was getting the Agitator off! It had not been removed in many years. I pulled and jerked, and pulled, and pulled some more. Nothing. I put two leather pants belts crisscrossed under the agitator, and pulled, but all I did was lift the washer up off of the bed of the truck. Worn out, needed rest.

I came back to it later that night, and I decided to get more aggressive with the agitator. I put one belt underneath the agitator, and I started pulling with hard jerks. After a few pulls, I noticed that I was developing a gap underneath, so that encouraged me to make about 3 more pulls, and off it came. I had bruises on my forearm for several days after that.

Underneath the agitator, I found this mess!


Post# 520405 , Reply# 12   5/25/2011 at 15:03 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Here is that area all nice and cleaned up. But how does this Damned plastic cap cover come off?


Post# 520407 , Reply# 13   5/25/2011 at 15:19 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Well, that Plastic Cap does not come off easily!

First, I took a feeler gage and went around the entire agitator shaft at the top (smallest diameter) portion of the plastic cap, to loosen all of the lime deposits that were bonding the cap to the shaft. I have sore and raw areas on both pointer fingers to show for that effort. Ah, but what next. A colleague had told me that there are two tabs that need to be pressed in order to get the cap off, but to the untrained servicer, he didn't know where the hell they were. Until later in the day, he discovered the secret.

But before I found the tabs, I was trying to pry up from underneath the cap with a putty knife, but that was too flimsy. Next, I got out my 12 inch wonderbar pry bar, but that would not pop the cap off either, because I still had not figured out the secret of the two tabs. Once I discovered the tabs, I experimented, and found that using one blade screwdriver coming in from each side of the tab, for both tabs, was the right combination. Now, the pry bar finally started to gradually lift the cap up until if came off.



Post# 520408 , Reply# 14   5/25/2011 at 15:21 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Now this leads to more cleanup! Yuck!


Post# 520409 , Reply# 15   5/25/2011 at 15:22 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Come closer, closer, closer....


Post# 520411 , Reply# 16   5/25/2011 at 15:30 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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After more scrubbing and scrapping and cleaning, the spin tub bolts looked to be in very good shape.

To my surprise, I placed a 1/2 inch box end wrench on one bold head, and it moved! As did the other two bolts, and in a few minutes, the moment of truth was upon me. Would the tub come out? I pulled. Nothing. I leaned. Nothing. I jerked. Nothing. Not until I went around the entire shaft and chisel out the rust that had accumulated there, was I able to get the tub to pop off of the flange that it had been bolted to for many years.


Post# 520412 , Reply# 17   5/25/2011 at 15:31 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Tub out, at last.


Post# 520413 , Reply# 18   5/25/2011 at 15:34 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Now the big let-down.

The rust that I could see in the bottom of the outer tub is nothing compared to what I see next around the transmission boot and near the drain.


Post# 520414 , Reply# 19   5/25/2011 at 15:36 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Well, for sure, the transmission boot needs to be replaced. I believe I can get one locally. Getting it off really does not present a problem - I just went very slowly and carefully.


Post# 520416 , Reply# 20   5/25/2011 at 15:38 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Bad looking on the top, but what about around the bottom?


Post# 520417 , Reply# 21   5/25/2011 at 15:40 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Wow! Looks like it pulled the whole tub groove out with it!


Post# 520418 , Reply# 22   5/25/2011 at 15:45 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Turns out that likely, the Transmission Boot was not leaking at all. What I did find, after doing some scrubbing was a pinhole through that groove in the tub where the boots sits. There is also a large rust spot next to the drain, which is very thin and delicate.


Post# 520419 , Reply# 23   5/25/2011 at 15:46 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Closeup of the area where the pinhole is located.


Post# 520421 , Reply# 24   5/25/2011 at 15:52 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        
So what is next?

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Next, I plan to work on the rust areas. I have done some preliminary scrubbing and cleaning. I am uneasy scrubbing much more in the groove, and that large spot by the drain.

I want to coat the rust with POR-15, but I cannot get it here in Peoria. Therefore, I have ordered a Starter Kit directly from the POR-15 customer support.

Next step after that is to use a Bondo Fiberglass Repair Kit to form a patch over the worst areas.

Finally, paint the affected areas with an Enamel paint.

All further suggestions most welcome.

Thank for reading so far.

Mike


Post# 520423 , Reply# 25   5/25/2011 at 15:59 (4,712 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
That Sucks!

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I've seen several machines like that. My boot in my GE looked similar and had become very hard. Water likes to stand in all of those rust spots and I guess over time it eats away at the porcelain and attacks the metal. That lip will also flex a lot when the metal becomes compromised and that only accelerates the problem.

 

Sorry to see that, do you plan on sourcing another outer tub?

 

-Tim


Post# 520430 , Reply# 26   5/25/2011 at 16:48 (4,712 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        
one word....................................................

GORGEOUS!
Mike


Post# 520433 , Reply# 27   5/25/2011 at 17:42 (4,712 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Great find Mike! You're going to do this pair proud!
Mind if I borrow your 'belt trick' for future reference?? LOL
Looking forward to following your progress.


Post# 520440 , Reply# 28   5/25/2011 at 18:22 (4,712 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
'69 GEs

nice pair -those are really close to the very first washer and dryer i stripped
down back in 1979,pair i stripped were kind of a pinkish color but not really
a true pink.They might have been a couple years older than '69,but all the
details were the same as the '69 pair pictured.


Post# 520465 , Reply# 29   5/25/2011 at 20:23 (4,712 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Great video Mike, I love the fact that you tested it right on the truck as soon as you got it home.  I've done that, sometimes us washer boys just can't wait to see it run!


Post# 520481 , Reply# 30   5/25/2011 at 21:13 (4,712 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Glad you got it home!

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Mike, I've fixed many of those holes in the outer tub successfully with the Bondo. Just use it fast, it sets up very quickly. Clean the rubber boot with oven cleaner spray then rinse it well and clean it with Lime-away. Works wonders on many of those parts.

 

Whoever designed that first generation of plastic hub cover deserves to have to pry it off of a 100 year-old machine to enter Heaven. I can't help but think that GE repairmen had a dedicated tool for its removal. Even when you know how it works it is a difficult and frustrating job.

 

Can't wait to see the machine in action with its new pimped-up spiral activator+mini tub.


Post# 520484 , Reply# 31   5/25/2011 at 21:25 (4,712 days old) by rickr (.)        

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Best of luck with your Filter Flo restoration Mike!

I had a 1964 Filter Flo that stunk like hell, before I cleaned out the crud out of the bottom of the tub as you are doing. It always smelled fresh after that work was done, so it is well worth the extra work to clean the machine out properly.


Post# 520492 , Reply# 32   5/25/2011 at 22:34 (4,712 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        
Thanks everyone...

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Tim (macboy91si): I purchased a new Transmission Boot from my local Maytag/GE dealer for $30. To me, it is worth having a brand new boot in the machine. I didn’t think about the turned up lip weakening due to the rust in the groove. Nevertheless, I would really like to save the original outer tub, so I am going to proceed with a repair, rather than a replacement tub first. I did hear from my appliance store owner/friend in Missouri after I asked him for some assistance on the plastic agitator shaft cover. Apparently, he has some spare outer and inner tubs from this era that I could use as a replacement. It is nice to have that option.


Mike (mtn1584): THANKS!


Paul (turquoisedude): Thanks Paul. Yes, you, and anyone else can take advantage of the agitator removal method using a leather belt. Just slip it under and across the midpoint of the agitator. I closed the buckle on the belt forming a continuous loop. Then I just yanked and pulled and jerked on the belt until the agitator came loose. I have not tried this method on a couple of my Maytag washers yet, but I do want to give it a try one of these days. The POR-15 should arrive Thursday. Anxious to get started.


cfz2882: Thanks.


Robert (unimatic1140): Thanks, glad you liked the video. Yes, I was anxious to get to see the machine run, however, there is another reason why the Washer & Dryer were, and STILL are, on the truck – I don’t yet have a place to put them yet. I am hoping to sell the two dryers (Maytag and ASKO), which will open up the perfect location in the basement for a Washer/Dryer pair.


Ken (bajaespuma): Thank you, and Thank you for all of your advice so far with this acquisition! I really appreciate your expertise. As I mentioned above – I bought a new boot for $30, so the peace of mind is well worth the small expense. I totally agree with you on the design of the plastic hub cover. What a bitch to get off.


Rick (rickr): Thank you. I am looking forward to sharing the restoration project with everyone here.



By the way, if anyone is looking for a GE FilterFlo, I am going to have For Sale, a 1990 Model WWA8350GBEAD (Almond). I use it quite regularly now, but once this restoration is complete, I will be looking to had this 1990 machine off to someone else.


THANKS to all for reading.

Mike


Post# 520553 , Reply# 33   5/26/2011 at 06:09 (4,711 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
I can't believe you got the tub bolts

jetcone's profile picture

out so easily. Those are the hardest bolts to release in Applianceville! Now you're on your way to Filter-Flo Freedom!

If you have the option, I'd go for the replacement tub; you're 90% there already and it will be so much stronger in the end = many problem free washdays ahead.


Post# 520558 , Reply# 34   5/26/2011 at 06:26 (4,711 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Amazing

mrb627's profile picture
You've come a long way already. Looking good from here.

I second the opiion to replace the tub if you have that option. You'll be much happier in the long run!

Malcolm


Post# 520563 , Reply# 35   5/26/2011 at 06:42 (4,711 days old) by MaytagA710 ()        

Aww what an excellent looking set! Congratulations on your find! There is a dryer exactly like yours on Kijiji here in Halifax, I have half a mind to just pick it up now. Great video and good luck with the restoring process.

Post# 520570 , Reply# 36   5/26/2011 at 07:23 (4,711 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Very nice, Mike!  I've been doing the exact same repair on a FF recently too - the tub flange and drain area of the tub rust out terrible.  (leave those lids up homemakers!)  I used POR 15 and silicone before on these outer tubs and it worked great.  Since the outer tub doesn't really have much stress of the moving transmission and basket it holds just fine. 


I just bought a mess of GE boots on ebay for $7 each - newly made of silicone and they are beautiful!  This pic is after the repair and new boot.  Hopefully the new boot won't degrade like the old rubber did - mine was the same thing, the boot was OK but the tub rusted right at the flange where water stayed around the boot-lip.

 

Best of luck with the new GE set - they are in very nice shape!


Post# 520624 , Reply# 37   5/26/2011 at 14:17 (4,711 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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Thanks Jon, Malcolm, Kevin, and Greg.

While I understand replacing the tub may be the preferred option for some of you, I believe I am going to follow Gregs example first and try to repair the tub. I may regret the decision, but I truly want to keep as much original iron in this machine as possible. BUT, I will double check with my sourch of the outer tub, and perhaps reserve it just in case.

Mike


Post# 520625 , Reply# 38   5/26/2011 at 14:24 (4,711 days old) by mixfinder ()        
Rusted Outer Tub

While watching Greg work on his Filter Flo I learned some background on tub rust outs.  GE did not have an out of balance function.  When the wash basket would bang against the tub trying to get up to speed in the spin cycle it damaged the outer tub creating dents and breaks in the surface where rust can begin to infiltrate.


Post# 520632 , Reply# 39   5/26/2011 at 14:52 (4,711 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Unless there are very large holes, your outer tub should work just fine for many years to come.  The picture I posted above is an oddity in that it looks as though there is rust all over the surface of the lower regions when in fact, that was a reflection or a flash anomaly - it's as clean and blue as the rest of the tub except where I used the POR15 around the flange and the drain/pressure switch outlets.

 

Good luck, Mike, I'm sure you'll make it work and it will be as good as new when you're done with it.


Post# 520695 , Reply# 40   5/26/2011 at 20:43 (4,711 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
Tub bolts from Hell (usually...)

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I have to second Jon's comment. During my time as GE service way back when, I came to HATE those bolts. A real pill. Good for you that yours didn't fight!

Fixing the tub is very viable option. I've done that with a few. It seems to me that there was a repair 'patch' just for those occasions. Clean and dress the rust area (usually on the sides) and then apply the patch which became one with the tub. Maybe my memory is fuzzy but I DO remember it. Gemline, maybe?

If you can, try to clean and reseal the drain port and such @ the tub bottom. Another spot for rust to rear it's ugly head.

Also, check the lower transmission drive pully seal. If it's weeping, the lower seal is not to much of a headache to replace and I *think* it's still available. It's pretty much a lip seal that contacts with the drive pully shaft and a whole lot easier to service with the transmission out and upside down so the bottom cover can then be removed and seal replaced. It was a common repair for me to do...

Nice machine and looks to well on her way to a permanent place in your laundry room (or at least until the next pretty face shows up...)

RCD


Post# 520700 , Reply# 41   5/26/2011 at 21:19 (4,711 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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So is the oil on the inside of the cabinet indicitive of a weeping lower seal?



Post# 520704 , Reply# 42   5/26/2011 at 22:05 (4,711 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
oil line

that looks like spray from a bad pump seal/bearing-if the pump is bad,the
same bolt together pump was used at least through the mid-'80s-later pumps
are basicly the same but are heat-welded.Could just be tub leaks dripping on
the pump coupler and flying off.you can try to wiggle the pump input shaft
from side to side to check for excess side play in the bearing...
Every GE motor /clutch i have worked with has had substantial runout of the
clutch shaft/yoke,if you have the tools and mechanical ability this runout
can be corrected for an extra smooth running filter flo...
Another filter flo mechanical nit is due to the way the spring clutch,
brake parts and other internal tranny parts are driven,filter flo trannys
generate quite a bit of minute metal particles that build up on top of the
tranny's input seal and wear on it causing eventual oil leakage-good to
check for this buildup and flush out if needed.
There is a thread on here where "Panthera"fixes tub rust on a 1990 filter flo.


Post# 520775 , Reply# 43   5/27/2011 at 07:24 (4,710 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE FF REBUILDING

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It looks like you are really giving this washer a good going over Mike i am sure that you will get it running well. The brown stains on the inside of the cabinet are most likely a bad pump seal, most often when its a water leak from somewhere else being thrown around by the pump driver it doesn't have that dark a rust stain.

 

One thing I don't understand [ and this goes to everyone that has a GE FF washer I am not picking on you Mike ] is why on earth you don't just replace the complete transmission when you are doing all this work. Excellent rebuilt complete transmissions are still available for often less than $100.00 with a one year warranty. And everyone that has a working GE FF washer that they expect to keep running for the foreseeable future should have at least one of these rebuilt transmissions in reserve. And if we don't buy these now they will go out of production even sooner. The transmission and the 2SP clutch were the two most troublesome major parts of GE FF washers and to of the most difficult to rebuild and good new or rebuilt ones are still available.


Post# 520901 , Reply# 44   5/27/2011 at 22:12 (4,710 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        

It is amazing to me how big the outer tubs were on these FF's. I wish GE had kept this design, and made a larger wash basket to compete with WP washers. Giving in to the competition, and copying them, and in GE's case trying to out do them (Whirlpool) I think was GE's downfall in the washer industry. At least WP tubs were porcelain. Sure WP DD machines had their fair share of plastic, but GE went overboard. If they had only tweaked the tried and true FF design, they would have had a much greater market share in the laundry business. From plastic top loaders with bad trannies to front loaders made in China? What the hell happened to GE?
Mike


Post# 520914 , Reply# 45   5/27/2011 at 23:34 (4,710 days old) by mixfinder ()        
What the hell happened to GE?

Consumer Reports which coninually dogged their outdated platform and gave them mediocre ratings.


Post# 520949 , Reply# 46   5/28/2011 at 05:07 (4,709 days old) by Easyspindry (Winston-Salem, NC)        
Way To Go, Mike.

Looks like a great find. And, knowing your expertise, I'm sure it will be like new once you're done with it.

The video was incredible. Thanks for sharing.

Good luck.

Jerry Gay


Post# 520956 , Reply# 47   5/28/2011 at 06:32 (4,709 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Heresy

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It wasn't until I had my first Maytag (an A206 with helical drive) that it occurred to me that Consumer Reports wasn't as objective as one would think or expect. Although I wasn't a CU technician, my interest in these machines, as with a lot of us, was serious and I had enough experience in the laundry room to judge some of the differences for myself between the basic Maytag which kept garnering top place in the CU reports and the Filter-Flo's that consistently placed down in the middle of their ratings.

 

My first impression was that the Maytags, although I thought they were elegant machines, were overrated. Our GE's had always done a clearly superior job at cleaning clothing and also at rinsing, something that wasn't even measured by CU. The Maytags weren't bad, overall, but the agitation was ineffective with big loads, the kind of loads that everyone but the lady of the household would subject the family washing machine to normally and frequently. Our GE never slowed down or stalled with big loads the way I've seen many a Tag do. Maytag rinsing has always been skimpy. Again, if you have a serious load in those machines, you are lucky if they'll turn over even once during that 2 minute rinse. The Filter-flo rinse on the normal cycle was always about 4 minutes long and, again, that powerful activation moved that laundry up and down with ease. GE's lint filter was also a better design than the Maytags, but the more I think about lint, the more it's a non-issue.

 

I think this comparison is fair, also for Whirlpools although I was always disappointed by how ineffective extraction was with the BD pools and kenmores.

 

True, Maytags are engineered beautifully, dependable and quiet. But I always thought Filter-Flo's were much better than what Consumer Reports reported


Post# 520972 , Reply# 48   5/28/2011 at 07:29 (4,709 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
We grew up with a '56 FF in the house

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and never looked dirty! They do clean well and rinse well too. When the clutch goes-noisy as hell! A real screamer!

 

 


Post# 520973 , Reply# 49   5/28/2011 at 07:31 (4,709 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Greg who did you get your boots from

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the cheapest I see right now are $15 of the 3 dealers on there.

 


Post# 520996 , Reply# 50   5/28/2011 at 08:52 (4,709 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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The ebay store I bought them from was TexasT-Resale, he's still there but no boots now.  I found 7 for $35 + shipping. 

 

Cuz I needed 7??

 

The one you mentioned for $15 appears to be the same as mine - luscious silicone rubber.

 

(I'm sure you know this but these are only for the perforated tub machines, the earlier ones had a different flange and extra lip on the bottom of the boot for the solid-tub washers)



CLICK HERE TO GO TO gansky1's LINK on eBay

Post# 521019 , Reply# 51   5/28/2011 at 11:50 (4,709 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        

@Ken, I agree Consumer Reports NEVER gave the GE FF washer it's due. The machines are far superior than CR ever gave them credit for. I look at CR today out of curioisity, but that's it. I know there are people out there who use it as their "bible" so to speak, but not me. For instance look at the user reviews of the Speed Queen AWN542 versus the CR review. 5 stars for user ratings and a mediocre, at best review by CR. Why the difference???? They don't take into account how people actually use these machines, and what the consumer actually wants in a machine. Just my two cents.
Mike


Post# 522217 , Reply# 52   6/3/2011 at 11:10 (4,703 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Hi MIke,

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I couldn't get to sleep one night last week so I got up and watched your video which relaxed me completely. I loved it. All the graphics and the narration--perfect.

 

Especially the water throw--great that you filmed it. Who has a more exciting or rapid spin drain than a vintage GE. Again, your work is spectacular.


Post# 522227 , Reply# 53   6/3/2011 at 11:58 (4,703 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

dishwashercrazy's profile picture

 

 

Michael:  Thank you so much.  I am very happy that you liked my video.  LOL - now I know that I can really put folks to sleep with my "teaching mode" voice.

 

 

 

UPDATE:  Actually, I have not done anything else since last posting, except get the machines off of my truck and into the Solarium, where it will be much easier to work on.  Contrary to some excellent advice (above) to replace the outer tub and transmission, I am going to start a restoration of the outer tub by first applying the POR-15 soon.  And keep the present transmission for the time being.  I want to keep as much original iron in the machine as possible.

 

Thanks to all.

 

Mike

 


Post# 522235 , Reply# 54   6/3/2011 at 13:05 (4,703 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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if your tranny was leaking, the belt and all areas underneath would be splashed with oil, it could be a small drip, but you would see it everywhere.....just looks like either at one time, or your current pump is leaking from the small hole on the side, one way to tell if this one is leaking, from that small hole there will be a dribble of black stripe oil streak running down the side of it....if its clean, it has already been replaced!


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