Thread Number: 35452
vintage 1941 GE refrigerator repair help needed
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Post# 529370   7/7/2011 at 18:18 (4,668 days old) by melissa (Los Angeles)        

I'm trying to make my recently purchased 1941 GE fridge/freezer work. I turned the dials to the coldest setting and I was thrilled to realize it gets cool, but not cold. Certainly not cold enough to freeze water or keep food cold. The built-in themometer has the freezer at about 50 degrees.

The fridge is beau-tee-ful, and I realllly want it to work. Any ideas what may be wrong with it?





Post# 529375 , Reply# 1   7/7/2011 at 18:31 (4,668 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

That's more like a 1951 than a 1941. 

 

Sounds like low refrigerant level, a failing compressor, or perhaps a bad cold control. 

 

Most working refrigerators will be running right up until the time of purchase as proof that they are in proper working order.  Buying a fridge that isn't running or that a seller is resistant/refuses to plug in presents a huge gamble.  The cost of repairing the cooling mechanism components can easily exceed the value of the refrigerator.

 


Post# 529392 , Reply# 2   7/7/2011 at 19:11 (4,668 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

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If it was transported on its side and then immediately plugged in, then the problem might be oil in the coils.

Try leaving it standing up in place for a day or two, so the oil can flow back to where it belongs, and then plug it in and turn it on.

And I agree, that's more like a '51 than a '41. Still, it's a very nice design, and the separate freezer compartment is a highly desirable design, more so than the single door designs that usually featured a tiny freezer compartment that at most could fit a half gallon of ice cream, a frozen pack of Birdseye chopped veggies, a six ounce can of frozen OJ, and some ice cube trays. OTOH, if all one wants to do is chill beer, the single door designs rock as well!




Post# 529420 , Reply# 3   7/7/2011 at 22:45 (4,668 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        
The Oldest this GE Combo can be is

appliguy's profile picture

1947 because that is when GE introduced the first two door model. PAT COFFEY


Post# 529424 , Reply# 4   7/7/2011 at 23:19 (4,668 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
condenser fan

if this has a condenser fan check that fan is operating correctly and any air
baffles are in place if there is a fan.


Post# 529434 , Reply# 5   7/8/2011 at 01:27 (4,668 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
I don't think there was such thing as condenser fan in 1951.

If it were leaking refrigerant over such a time, there wouldn't be enough left to reach 50*.

However, it it has been in use for 60 years, there may not be much left of the compressor valves. If it runs continously that lets out the thermostat. If it never gets below 50* in the freezer, the system has a (BIG) problem. Barring the oil redistribution above.

2 refrigeration guys told me, 'if a fridge has a bad compressor, send it to the landfill'. They say the sealed system cannot be breached without serious side effects (orifice blockage) and it was once demonstrated to me (1984). But do rule out all the worst cases before you give up. It is a handsome machine.


Post# 529436 , Reply# 6   7/8/2011 at 01:40 (4,668 days old) by athanasius80 (California)        

athanasius80's profile picture
Melissa,
I would second the notion of letting the refrigerator rest in an upright position for a day to let oil return to the compressor.

After that, how cold does the food compartment get? How cold does the freezer get?



Post# 529469 , Reply# 7   7/8/2011 at 10:29 (4,667 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I don't think these GE's had condenser fans either, but my tiny 1939 Westinghouse did.


Post# 529540 , Reply# 8   7/8/2011 at 17:48 (4,667 days old) by melissa (Los Angeles)        
no condensor fan

there's no condensor fan and I have had it standing upright for a while. Still 50 degrees.

Indeed it was not running when i bought it. I was told it had worked for years, but it was unplugged when the owner died. I know that was dumb of me to buy it anyway, but it was just so dang pretty.

Would a freon charge help it?

Thanks for the updates on the date.


Post# 529545 , Reply# 9   7/8/2011 at 18:07 (4,667 days old) by westingman123 ()        

Oh, my, that IS pretty. I hope you find the solution. I have the last model before combinations came out--the itty bitty freezer variety--in my kitchen. I miss the bigger freezer, but aesthetically it's a fit!

Post# 529559 , Reply# 10   7/8/2011 at 19:35 (4,667 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

A refrigerant charge could offer a temporary fix, but there's no telling how long it would last.  If the freezer is only getting down to 50, the system has lost quite a bit of refrigerant.  That freezer should be at zero or lower with the cold control set in the middle range.  If it's a really slow leak, like maybe it started 50 years ago, then a charge might last you for quite a while.


Post# 529567 , Reply# 11   7/8/2011 at 20:54 (4,667 days old) by hydralique (Los Angeles)        

To determine if the system needs a freon charge you'll need a service tech set up to monitor the pressures in a refrigerator. Because the freon volume of a refrigerator is much, much smaller than in a house or car a/c system it needs a far more precise freon charge. Charging refrigerators gets done all the time, but because of the expertise and equipment involved it's usually done only on newer warrantied refrigerators with a failure, or expensive high end boxes like Sub-Zero or Viking. No doubt there are some older service techs around who could do it for the GE but they may not be easy to find.


Post# 529602 , Reply# 12   7/9/2011 at 00:26 (4,667 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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After looking at these pics, I was wondering...

When did the fridges (other than Crosley) were finally allowed to have shelves in their doors?

I used to have a single door GE "Deluxe" from the mid-1940s (it still used SO2 as a refrigerant) and it had a huge compressor (similar to those on monitor tops) with cooling fins all around it.

Was this patent only for the United States?


CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK


Post# 529609 , Reply# 13   7/9/2011 at 01:38 (4,667 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
Very few home fridges have charging ports like car or house AC does. They are sealed systems. Cannot be charged or monitored for pressure without welding ports into the existing plumbing. Similarly, there is almost no way the refrigerant can get out.

So no, it's not likely low refrigerant unless yours DOES have ports, which are essentially the same valves bicycle tires use, and those definitely age. You can tell by looking. It's more likely that 60 years has hammered the compressor valves where they don't seal any more. Sorry, know that's not what you wanted to hear, but that's most likely what's happening.


Post# 529632 , Reply# 14   7/9/2011 at 05:03 (4,667 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

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My 1952 GE Combo, which ran fine in college, even after sitting unplugged for weeks, began to  leak out the charge whenever there is a power failure lasting over 12 hours back when I moved in 1999. While running, it doesn't seem to leak and will cool for years, but I have to top off the charge if there is a long power failure. Back in 1999, my appliance repairman added a port so I could fill it myself as needed. He also replaced (or added) a dryer tube if I recall.

 

The same thing was done to my 1954 Frigidaire at the same time. It had sat for weeks, maybe longer, when I bought it and did not cool. It has never lost its charge since and has been running constantly (except during power failures of course) since I got it in 1999.

 

I talked to Mike "Monitor Top" Arnold several years ago about my GE. He thought there could be a leak in the low pressure side. He also suggested removing the flat cover over the freezer section on the back of the fridge to inspect the capillary tubes for pinhole leaks. If a capillary tube in that location is leaking, there will be a visible oil spot on the surrounding insulation. He suggested a strong industrial epoxy for repair: clean all oil off and apply the epoxy over the leak site to seal.


Post# 529684 , Reply# 15   7/9/2011 at 14:47 (4,666 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
So 50's fridges DID have ports? Golly, grandma's fridge had a separate motor, belt, compressor. That was in the early 50s, the fridge was almost undoubtedly older.

Post# 529693 , Reply# 16   7/9/2011 at 15:45 (4,666 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

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No, the fridges did not have ports. Mine were added by the repairman.


Post# 529697 , Reply# 17   7/9/2011 at 16:01 (4,666 days old) by hydralique (Los Angeles)        

Sometimes you have to be careful about consistently adding just freon over the years, as when the old charge leaks out it'll take some of the refrigerant oil with it. Eventually the compressor can run low on oil and be damaged. This used to be pretty common on automotive systems back when you could pick up small cans of cheap freon at any car parts store.


Post# 530161 , Reply# 18   7/12/2011 at 08:35 (4,663 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Gaskets.

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In what kind of shape are the door gaskets? If they won't seal properly, the fridge will run more and if they are bad enough, the fridgwe won't cool, no matter how much it runs.

Dave

PS: Yes, you can still get gasket material.


Post# 1073616 , Reply# 19   5/21/2020 at 09:30 (1,427 days old) by Sparkie_lucas (New jersey)        

I have a similar combo fridge. The freezer is getting down to negative numbers yet won't shut off. I am having a hard time finding a new freezer control and capillary for it. Any one out there have any ideas?

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 1113169 , Reply# 20   3/29/2021 at 21:05 (1,115 days old) by jdeanbook (COLUMBIA, TN)        
1955 GE Missing parts

I just bought a 1955? 56? GE fridge and everything works great! However, the veggie drawers are missing the covers which also serve as glides to pull the drawers in and out. Does anyone know where I can find some? Or do you have some that you can send pictures of so I can make a retrofit substitute? I’d greatly appreciate it! Can’t wait to install it beside my 1955 GE Liberator Range!

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 1113170 , Reply# 21   3/29/2021 at 21:15 (1,115 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
Jessica,

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That's a beautiful refrigerator!  Definitely a 1955 - due to the colors of the interior (yellow and blue - unique to 1955), and mechanical latch on the doors (magnetic doors were introduced in 1956).

 

Good luck with the search for the parts.  You might try reaching out to John Jowers at antiqueappliances.com and see if he might have spares of the parts you need, and that he would be willing to sell.

 

lawrence


Post# 1113448 , Reply# 22   4/1/2021 at 10:45 (1,112 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        
I

had to buy a rusty 1956 fridge to get the part you describe. it was 75 bucks for the whole thing. I also used the temp control and some trim pieces out of it so it was well worth it. I think that style was maybe 54-57


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