Thread Number: 35760
Repair Advice: 1964 Frigidaire Imperial
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Post# 533372   7/28/2011 at 10:58 (4,627 days old) by 65continental ()        

Greetings fellow appliance enthusiasts,

I purchased a turquoise Frigidaire Imperial refrigerator a while back, and am looking for advice about having it repaired. The fridge and freezer compartments were nice and cold when I purchased the unit, but won't get cold now that I have it at home. My parents recommended some guy out of the Yellow Pages that had repaired an early 70's Frigidaire for them at a reasonable price some years ago, but when I had him by to look at mine, he told me to "buy a new fridge and have it painted this color", and promptly left with the cash for the service call. He did mention that it was grounding out 12 volts, which a man that worked on our air conditioner said was due to a bad compressor. Is this true?

After reading the not-so-favorable comments about early 60's Frigidaire fridges in the vintage fridge thread here, I am wondering if it is realistically possible for me to get this machine working again. Am I better off with another brand? I was really disappointed when this stopped working, as I purchased it with the matching Custom Imperial double oven. Should I continue to hunt for a decent repairman, or have a good cry over it, phone the scrap dealer, and hunt for another turquoise replacement?
Any and all advice is appreciated, as I am rather inexperienced in the realm of vintage large appliances.
Have a good afternoon, thanks in advance.

MidCenturyMike





Post# 533385 , Reply# 1   7/28/2011 at 12:15 (4,627 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

First of all the repair is a boor and a cad! Call a real appliance guy maybe even Frig factory service and check. If it needs a new compressor so be it. It's cheaper than a new refrig.
You should be able to tell if the compressor is running or not.


Post# 533400 , Reply# 2   7/28/2011 at 12:55 (4,627 days old) by 65continental ()        

The compressor runs, and the "flowing cold" blower seems to run as it should, shutting off when you open the fridge door.

Post# 533401 , Reply# 3   7/28/2011 at 12:56 (4,627 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I agree with the cuffmeister.  Try to find somebody who will at least diagnose the problem correctly so you know what you're up against.  Do you know anybody who owns income property and has handyman & appliance repair contacts?

 

Since you've already visited the vintage fridge thread, you know that GE and Whirlpool fridges have better reliability if it comes down to replacing the Frigidaire.

 

So welcome to AW.org.  Does your handle indicate that there are some car pix you should maybe post here?  The best, most faithful car my dad ever owned was a '65 Continental.  It ended up in Michigan, by the way . . .

 

 


Post# 533421 , Reply# 4   7/28/2011 at 13:22 (4,627 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

If you're sure the compressor is running and the evap and cond (if it has one) fans are running, sounds like low freon or struck defrost timer. You can check defrost timer yourself. If low freon you'll need a tech but I still say save it.

Post# 533426 , Reply# 5   7/28/2011 at 13:31 (4,627 days old) by 65continental ()        
I'm pretty good with my hands...

@ cuffs054: How do I go about testing the defrost timer?

@ rp2813: Thank you for the welcome! Yes, I have a '65 Continental sedan. I just had the carburetor rebuilt this morning, and have been regreasing the power window mechanisms, but I will take and post some photos when its cleaned up.


Post# 533445 , Reply# 6   7/28/2011 at 14:05 (4,627 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

There are two types of defrost set ups; Hot gas and heater. I'm not betting too much on your problem being the timer.
But here's what to do;
Usually behind the kickplate there will be a small timer-type gadget. It will usually have a female screw driver slot of some sort on the front. That is the timer. It regularly triggers the defrost cycle. If it gets stuck in defrost, refrig could get warm.
If yours uses hot gas for defrost it could be acting more like a reverse cycle heat pump (unlikely).
Find the timer. Slowly! turn the screw and observe what happens.
I really am thinking this is a freon issue.

Speaking of Conti power windows, my 69 needed to have the relays cleaned in the trunk. At one point only 1 of the 6 windows would work!


Post# 533473 , Reply# 7   7/28/2011 at 15:02 (4,627 days old) by 65continental ()        
So, I just tried the timer

which was only partially held on by one of two screws, which was backed out about half way. It looks like somebody had already taken this off once before, only to discover that the problem wasn't the timer. Now I feel as though I've "been had" twice.
I tried turning the timer screw slowly as you suggested. The low rpm motor runs nicely, but there was no change in fridge function after having turned the screw. The freezer doesn't cool and the coils on the back don't get hot. No freon. Sigh.


Post# 533503 , Reply# 8   7/28/2011 at 16:45 (4,627 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Could be out of gas, or could be a bad compressor. Hard to tell from a distance, get a qualified tech, who wants to work on it.

 

BTW, the opinions expressed on the other thread about early Frigidaires is just that, OPINIONS. Personally, I think that the early 60's Frigidaires are some of the best refrigerators out there. They are no worse, or better, IMHO, than similar Whirlpool built, or GE built, refrigerators. My dad was a Frigidaire factory trained technician most of his life, I'm well aware of what came through the shop, or what we worked on back then.


Post# 533521 , Reply# 9   7/28/2011 at 18:03 (4,627 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

I also have a 1964 Frigidaire 16 cu.ft. Imperial. I'd also like to get a replacement compressor for it because my other one works better but the 1964 is still in use in my kitchen...

 

I also think that the reliability /durability of older Frigidaire refrigerators isn't an issue but I they might be a bit harder to service than other brands (like many GM Frigidaire appliances). Failures happening in any 30+ (or 45+) years old appliances aren't caused by a lack of durability!

 

A friend of mine has kept his non working RCA Whirlpool bottom freezer refrigerator in his garage for many years. It's about the same age as my Frigidaire fridges and it's been dead for about 10 years (bad compressor). My parents also had an Inglis Whirlpool from the mid seventies that was noisy as hell when it was just a few years old and it also died quite a few years ago. GE fridges with the newer compressor don't last as long as older ones either.

 

Does your compressor makes noise? I have been told that the spring for the barrier in rotary compressors sometimes break, making the compressors more silent but totally ineffective!

 

What's the model number of your fridge? There are two models that are identical from outside in 1964 with different interiors. One has thin wall insulation and 16 cu-ft. and the other model has 14 cu-ft.

 

The picture shows the 16 cu-ft, the 14 cu-ft has a different inner door design and different shelves.

 

Unlike older GE fridges, Frigidaires don't use hot gas defrost. When the fridge is in defrost mode, the compressor and fan shuts down and a heater defrosts the condenser. So if you hear the compressor and fan, you know it's not the defrost timer. Be sure that you feel the air circulating from the ducts in the freezer and in the refrigerator (the outlet is behind the light cover in the center). To test that, just hold the door switch as if the door was closed with one of your hands (in the refrigerator section) and notice if there's any airflow.

 

Did the problem happen suddenly when the refrigerator was moved?

 

 




This post was last edited 07/28/2011 at 18:20
Post# 533535 , Reply# 10   7/28/2011 at 20:02 (4,627 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)        
Very beautiful Frigidaire...

pdub's profile picture
Here is my experience so take it for what it's worth. I had an early 70's top freezer GM made refrigerator that worked when I bought it from a Craigslist seller but after I got it home it never worked again. I think the springs inside the compressor were brittle and broke during the move. I did everything they say you are supposed to do and waited a full 24 hours before restarting it. When I first turned it on all sounded fine but an hour later I went to check on it and it was warm. You could hear the compressor trying to start for about 5 seconds and then click, it would try again every few minutes. I checked the defrost timer like you did and then started calling tech's. Most of them told me over the phone it was not repairable and to get rid of it and save my money. One guy was willing to come out and he tested it and even put a replacement starter on the compressor but he said it could be a stuck piston because the compressor would not start. When I would ask how much to replace the compressor, not one single repair outfit would do it and most quoted more than the cost of a new refrigerator. They said once you break into the sealed system when replacing a compressor, contaminants getting inside would cause problems later and that it would be impossible to warranty the work. I was just glad I got someone to actually test it and verify that it wasn't some small fixable problem or just low on freon. In your case, I would have it checked by a professional and go from there before junking it.

Post# 533547 , Reply# 11   7/28/2011 at 21:09 (4,627 days old) by simplicity345 (Aliquippa,Pa)        
Refrigerator Help

I May Be Able To Help You Out On Your Frigidaire Refrigerator I Have Tech Talk Boooks But I Would Need Your Model And I Could See What Might Be The Problem And I Might Even Have The Part You Need I Have Lots Of Frigidaire Parts From Our Family Business That They Retired They Sold And Repaired Frigidaire Appliances And I Have A Lot Of Parts Except Original Compressors I Might Be Able To Get A New Style Compressor That Would Work If Thats What You Need Any Questions You May Email Me @ mmichael11438@yahoo.com I Also Have Parts On This Website www.boocoo.com... under mark merchandise Maintained By Vintage Appliance Parts.



Post# 533552 , Reply# 12   7/28/2011 at 22:05 (4,627 days old) by 65continental ()        
FPI-14B-64-TQ-LHD

When plugged in, the compressor seems to run constantly. I don't hear it shutting off, or trying to shut off. The fridge appeared to work when I purchased it, but finding out today that the defroster switch appears to have been tested and then re installed in a hap-hazard manner makes me think that the previous owner knew that it had issues.
The blower vent in the freezer compartment has the strongest airflow, followed by the protruding vent at the upper right back wall of the fridge, and then the vent hidden behind the light lens, which has what seems to be quite weak airflow.
The fridge didn't receive any major trauma during transport. I certainly never heard any hissing. I guess my problem now is to find someone that 'wants' to work on this, and won't just dismiss me like the last guy.
Thank you all for the great advice and responses!


Post# 533559 , Reply# 13   7/28/2011 at 23:38 (4,627 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

The airflow you describe is normal.  It's typically much stronger in the freezer section than in the fresh food section.

 

While I only know the basics of refrigeration theory, it sounds to me like the compressor is good and is trying to do its job.  On the flip side, if there's a refrigerant leak it could be anywhere in the system (I presume the high pressure side would be more suspect) and might be difficult to locate.


Post# 533562 , Reply# 14   7/29/2011 at 01:09 (4,627 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I May Be Able To Help You Out On Your Frigidaire Refrigerator I Have Tech Talk Boooks But I Would Need Your Model And I Could See What Might Be The Problem And I Might Even Have The Part You Need I Have Lots Of Frigidaire Parts From Our Family Business That They Retired They Sold And Repaired Frigidaire Appliances And I Have A Lot Of Parts Except Original Compressors I Might Be Able To Get A New Style Compressor That Would Work If Thats What You Need Any Questions You May Email Me @ mmichael11438@yahoo.com I Also Have Parts On This Website www.boocoo.com... under mark merchandise Maintained By Vintage Appliance Parts.

You get the award for the longest run on sentence I have ever seen on this website.
Congratulations!


Post# 533563 , Reply# 15   7/29/2011 at 01:41 (4,627 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Was the refrigerator plugged and cold when you got it?

 

One possible source of refrigerant/oil leaks on the Meter-Miser compressors is the connections where the 3 electrical wires enter in the compressor. If you see oil traces there, it might be the place where the refrigerant leaked (if that's the problem).

 

The serviceman told you that "it was grounding out 12 volts"? I don't know what it means but maybe someone could explain it?

 

I wish you good luck and that you find someone to bring it back to life! If you don't, let me know before you scrap it, you might get a few bucks selling a few parts to me (and maybe to others!).


Post# 533564 , Reply# 16   7/29/2011 at 01:59 (4,627 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
The meaning of being "grounded"

neptunebob's profile picture

I believe it means that there is a partial break in the internal insulation inside the compressor case that is leaking some electricity to the outside of the case which "has grounding".  As my instructor told that is different than "grounded" when there actually is electricity leaking.  It may be possible that over the years some of the insulation material deteriorated.  But I heard that this is more of a problem in newer units with 134a than with R12.  More likely as I read somewhere, metal fatigue has set into the springs inside the case and when moved, even without much trauma, one of the springs broke.  The article said for this reason it was better to leave a refrigerator with the house if you want it to last longer.  The spring metal is more flexible when new, which is how the manufacturers could ship new refrigerators without damage.

 

I don't know if I can answer the question of who to replace the compressor.  I would like to hear what happens.  Seems to me it should be possible without contamination if they are EPA certified, flush the system with nitrogen and follow the right procedures.

 

I notice for its age, the inside seems to be in good condition so I would like you to keep it.  Seems they must have used thicker metal, plastic, etc.  It certainly is not like a Frigidaire today.  My sister bought a Kenmore about 6 months ago and already, some of the inside parts have come apart. 

 

One thing I would like to know:  Did GM build their own compressor or did they use a vendor like Techumseh?  Because if the latter, it should be easier to locate a modern compressor.


Post# 533585 , Reply# 17   7/29/2011 at 07:20 (4,626 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

Bah! I say, bah! Replacing a compressor on a home frig can't be that much tuffer than on a small commerical cooler. I would call a commerical HVAC Co. to come look at it. It really is beautiful and in good shape. If compressor is running you might get lucky and just need a leak seal and recharge.

Post# 533609 , Reply# 18   7/29/2011 at 10:48 (4,626 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Bob,

 

GM had their own compressors. The one used in Mike's Frigidaire is a rotary type Meter-Miser 7/32 hp. I have heard that some people had theirs replaced with Tecumseh compressors but there's a lot involved in the replacement as there are just two mounting points for the Frigidaire compressor.

 

See this link for more details about Frigidaire rotary compressors.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 533613 , Reply# 19   7/29/2011 at 11:46 (4,626 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Have a look at this video to see the internals of a rotary Frigidaire compressor. This is a smaller one that was made in England Frigidaire used to have manufacturing plants all over the world, it was certainly the most internationally known of GM divisions.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 533621 , Reply# 20   7/29/2011 at 13:31 (4,626 days old) by simplicity345 (Aliquippa,Pa)        
Refrigerator Possible Problems

Please Let Me Know If This Is The Problem Unit Runs Excessively;

Problem- AIR FLOW AROUND CONDENSER RESTRICTED;
REMEDY- ADEQUATE AIR FLOW OVER CONDENSER IS NECESSARY. ADVISE USER WHERE CABINET IS BUILT IN WITHOUT PROPER CIRCULATION OF AIR.

PROBLEM- POOR DOOR SEAL
REMEDY - LEVEL CABINET BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS. CHECK FOR INTERFERENCE FROM PACKAGES OR FOOT PEDAL.

REMEDY- PLACING SUDDEN FULL LOAD ON UNIT SUCH AS ALL FRESH WATER IN ICE CUBE TRAYS OR HEAVY LOADING AFTER SHOPPING
PROBLEM- EXPLAIN TO CUSTOMERS THAT THIS HEAVY LOADING WILL CAUSE LONG RUNNING TIME UNTIL TEMPERATURES ARE MAINTAINED. THIS RUNNING PERIOD MAY BE SEVERAL HOURS AFTER HEAVY LOADING OF THE CABINET. REFER TO USE AND CARE, INSTRUCTIONS REGARDING RUNNING TIME.

PROBLEM- FAULTY THERMOSTAT
REMEDY- IF FREEZER PACKAGE THERMOSTAT IS BETWEEN 0 Degrees And 6 F Degrees., THE THERMOSTAT IS NOT AT FAULT.

PROBLEM- FREEZER DRAIN TRAP NOT IN PLACE
REMEDY- THIS WILL ALLOW WILL ALLOW WARM AIR TO TRAVEL TO THE FREEZER. INSTALL TRAP.

PROBLEM- REFRIGERANT CHARGE
REMEDY- TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE GAS. DISCHARGE, EVACUATE AND RECHARGE WITH PROPER CHARGE.

PROBLEM- RESTRICTION OR MOISTURE
REMEDY- REPLACE COMPONENT WHERE RESTRICTION IS LOCATED. IF MOISTURE IS SUSPECTED, REPLACE DRIER-FILTER.

PROBLEM- NORMAL OPERATION
REMEDY- ON FROST PROOF MODELS IF FREEZER PACKAGE TEMPATURES ARE BELOW 0 Degrees TURN COLD CONTROL WARMER.

If You Have Any Questions You May Email Me @ mmichael11438@yahoo.com Or Also May Call Me @ 724-506-0344 I Have lots Of Frigidaire Refrigerator Parts Or Am Able To Get Them For Most Frigidaire Refrigerators .



Post# 533623 , Reply# 21   7/29/2011 at 13:58 (4,626 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Mark,

 

Do you have illustrations of the freezer drain trap?


Post# 533645 , Reply# 22   7/29/2011 at 17:53 (4,626 days old) by mixfinder ()        
Vintage Frigidaire

I recently bought a Frigidaire all refrigerator from the 70's and when it came home it wouldn't run. Thankfully we have an older repair guy who happens to like and use Frigidaire. He put in a new cold control and we've off to the races every since.

Post# 533653 , Reply# 23   7/29/2011 at 18:50 (4,626 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

This one runs, but is not cooling. Points to a problem in the sealed system.


Post# 533657 , Reply# 24   7/29/2011 at 19:23 (4,626 days old) by simplicity345 (Aliquippa,Pa)        
phil drain trap question

Dear Phil,
Yes I Do I Will Email A Picture To You


Post# 533672 , Reply# 25   7/29/2011 at 23:17 (4,626 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

LOL.."grounding out 12 volts"sounds like someone measured the volts to ground with
a digital voltmeter-those will always show voltage to ground due to the capacitance
of the motor's winding and the other wiring in the fridge.
I have had only one fridge with a bad compressor;an absocold mini fridge(a fairly
big "mini")- i bought it for $10,tried it and finding it worked put it away until
i was ready to put it into service as a garage fridge;decided to give it a better
test before setting it up-plugged it in,it started cooling,let it run overnight
and found it warm inside with a very hot compressor the next morning...-really
hoped it only had a bad start relay(it actually had a PTC positor starter)turns out
it has a shorted motor winding...Fridge is a very handy size and made in 1980,semi-
vintage-if i had the right tools to recharge the coolant,i'd be really tempted to
pull the compressor,cut the weld,remove and rewind the motor stator,reassemble and
recharge.Of course this operation would technically be nowhere near"worth it" for
a 31 yr old small fridge,but would be one cool "stunt" to pull off LOL.
I rewind motors so the stator rewind part would be easy.


Post# 535832 , Reply# 26   8/9/2011 at 07:25 (4,615 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

65Conti,
What was the outcome?


Post# 536047 , Reply# 27   8/9/2011 at 21:42 (4,615 days old) by 65continental ()        
The fridge is on the back burner

as I've been pushing to get my '65 Continental on the road before I resume classes next week. For now I'll just continue to keep it clean and safe; my spending money has been consumed by the car. Thank you all for the wonderful advice.

Post# 536111 , Reply# 28   8/10/2011 at 06:45 (4,614 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

65Conti,
Don't forget to check out the WS wiper system. If yours is driven off the power steering pump, take a look at hoses, etc. My 69 wipers were not terrific.


Post# 536189 , Reply# 29   8/10/2011 at 13:55 (4,614 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I love the wiper system on the 60's Lincolns -- when it's properly adjusted at the pump. 

 

I'm curious about what's required to make your car roadworthy.  These cars were built for the ages with systems that held up well, but I'm speaking from a California perspective.


Post# 536298 , Reply# 30   8/10/2011 at 22:24 (4,614 days old) by 65continental ()        
I had the saftey clearance done tonight, and the insurance a

If all goes well, I'll be driving my Lincoln for the first time ever tomorrow night. Its been nine years of preservation, blood, sweat, tears, and restoration. I'm so thrilled and excited!

Post# 536300 , Reply# 31   8/10/2011 at 23:11 (4,614 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Awesome!

rp2813's profile picture

I'm predicting love at first shift.

 

We will want to hear all about it!  I'd suggest starting a new thread with that news.


Post# 536303 , Reply# 32   8/10/2011 at 23:21 (4,614 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LATE 1950s-1960s FROST-PROOF FRIGIDAERS

combo52's profile picture

Are beautiful and were once great refs, but they have not always aged well. If you have one that is working properly congratulations. After working on a couple dozen of these over the last 10 years or so I have found them to often have serious problems with maintaining proper temperatures, and these were the ones that appeared to work!. 65contential welcome to the world of free internet advice.

 

Cuffmeister has no idea what is wrong with your ref as he has no idea how it even works. Asking whether it is hot gas defrost or electric defrost. Frigidare never made hot gas defrost refs and if the compressor and inside fans are running it does not have a defrost timer problem, enough said.

 

Kenny my opinions may be just that to you but they do come from a lot of experience and it doesn't matter that your dad worked for Frigidare. I am talking about the here and know. These were once great working refs and nothing lasts forever. 

 

65 continental I am afared that the repairman that looked at your ref is probably correct that the ref has a serious problem. He may not have put it very nicely but is is the only experienced repairman that has looked at it including me. I would consider a 2nd opinion before giving up on it but that is up to you Good Luck, let us know what happens.


Post# 536337 , Reply# 33   8/11/2011 at 06:24 (4,613 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

Geez, Combo, did someone pee in your Cherrios this morning?

Post# 536556 , Reply# 34   8/12/2011 at 12:35 (4,612 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

'65 Continental,

 

 

If you want to do something by yourself before calling another tech (if the previous tech hasn't already done it), you can remove the freezer baskets (easy to do, you just need to roll them out and lift them up (you'll see there's a place where the rollers can go out of the tracks, one at a time).  Then, you can remove the bottom tray and air duct to see the evaporator and condenser fan.

 

I have seen some that had melted during the defrost cycle, resulting in a melted fan (and plastic ducts).  If you plug it once you see the evap, you at least could see what happens there when it runs! A Frigidaire serviceman once told me that the '63-'64 models were good ones. He didn't like the earlier ones with two blowers and a cold plate in the refrigerator section but there are still some working (and I plan getting a '62 soon!).

 

Unfortunately, what John told you is probably right but I still wouldn't give up too quickly if I were you. If you have space to keep it in a non-working condition until you find someone and the required parts to repair it, and if spending a few hundred bucks on it isn't an issue, you might get it going again! But first you have to find a tech that knows these! I like having things that are unique or unusual! I like old cars too and I like when they are unusual even if that means they are harder to repair or keep going! I take pride in having things that very few others have!

Some old car fans like updating their rides with easy to mod and easy to repair Chevy engines (including a few friends of mine who have hotrods). I don't! 

 

Have you looked for traces of oil/refrigerant leaks at the compressor connections and service port?

 

Finally, there's probably at least another "member" on this board with a working '64 Frigidaire. It's a 14 cu-ft Deluxe with bottom freezer but it's very similar to ours. I don't know if he still has it but I'd like to hear from him about it!

 

see:

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 537079 , Reply# 35   8/15/2011 at 07:48 (4,609 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LATE 1950s-1960s FROST-PROOF FRIGIDAERS

combo52's profile picture

The 1964 and later single evaporator refs are a little less troublesome in regards to temperature balance between the ref and freezer sections. But I still see lots of sealed system problems and defrost problems as these age. It seems that any FF ref with a flat evaporator has more problems in the long run with defrost issues. 

 

Phil R I am sure you meant to say when you suggested that 65 continental to remove the freezer floor to look at the evaporator fan and motor only, as the condenser fan motor [ if this model even has one ] is not accessible from inside the freezer. Also since you pictured it Robert's beautiful Frigidare ref is one of the many that I know of that is running all the time and is not functioning completely properly. I know of three other real appliance techs that have all struggled with and given up on thier 1960s bottom freezer Frigidares.

 

Phil R I do agree with you in that I do like to keep things as original as possible, and in fact it is hard to put newer compressors in these older Frigidares as they use a high side rotary compressor, where everything today uses a low side piston compressor. 


Post# 537112 , Reply# 36   8/15/2011 at 09:34 (4,609 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

John,

My'63 Frigidaire is also a single evaporator refrigerator and it works great. The compressor cycles normally and it can get the freezer temp much below 0°F quickly.

 

As you're saying these do not have condenser fan motors. I meant evaporator fan motor, I guess was a bit tired when I wrote that!

Those that have two fans are the pre-1963 models with cold plates in the refrigerator section (and they still have no condenser fan!).


Post# 1101555 , Reply# 37   12/21/2020 at 20:00 (1,193 days old) by JSTONE (North Barrington)        
Temperature control on Frigidaire Imperial 19

I have a 1964 Frigidaire Imperial 19. My challenge is that the freezer isn't freezing but there is ice down the back of it and ice on the fan. I'm thinking I have the temperature setting wrong but have no idea what the letters and numbers mean! The options are A B C 1 2 3. Can anyone tell me which is coolest and how best to have it set? Does anyone have an owners manual for this fridge?

  View Full Size
Post# 1101575 , Reply# 38   12/21/2020 at 22:10 (1,193 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Correct Temperature Setting For A 1964 FD

combo52's profile picture

Hi Jane, #1 or 2 is normal, but there's no wrong setting and if your ref and freezer is not cooling properly there is something wrong with it other than what ever setting you have it on.

 

If you give a good description of temperatures in each section and pictures of any ice accumulation etc we may be able to point you in the right direction to getting it working again.

 

John L.


Post# 1101672 , Reply# 39   12/22/2020 at 17:52 (1,192 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

I'm thinking defrost problem.


Post# 1187677 , Reply# 40   8/15/2023 at 19:35 (226 days old) by cosmos_fan (New York, NY)        
1964 Frost Proof Imperial for sale (NJ)

Reviving this thread to add:

Vintage 1964 Frigidaire Imperial FrostProof refrigerator with bottom freezer. The original finish is still looking great.
All original inside with pull out shelves in fridge and pull out baskets in the freezer section.
67" high x 32" wide x 27" deep.
Pickup from northern NJ home.
See craigslist listing below for details.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO cosmos_fan's LINK on Newjersey Craigslist


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Post# 1191363 , Reply# 41   10/6/2023 at 11:01 by Asarazin (Metro Detroit, Michigan)        

I took have a turquoise 1964 Frigidaire. Compressor appears to work, lights work, but no fans are working. Defrost timer turns.

Anything simple I can check to try to get the fans working? And then if I get fans working, I believe the next step would be to attempt a recharge. Where would I attach the recharge tap thing?
First pic the tube on the right goes up to the top of metal tubes on the back of the frisge. Then there's the nub on the left.
On the second pic, there is the looped tube that comes from the bottom of the tubes on the back of the fridge. Then there is another tube coming off the compressor behind that.

Any help is appreciated.



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