Thread Number: 36446
1950s Pink Maytag Washer and Dryer
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Post# 542862   9/10/2011 at 22:13 (2,987 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I picked up a matching washer and dryer set last night. I got them for free when cleaning out someones storage unit. I know there have been a few of these on here but I have a couple questions. The washer is a P142 and the dryer is a p 641C. After doing a little research I think they are either '57 or '58, I'm hoping someone can tell me for sure. They are in really good physical condition with no dents and only a few scratches in the paint. I was told that they worked but there was oil beneath the washer and the belt is missing (I have a spare belt for it). They sat in storage for a really long time. I Haven't plugged them in yet. I absolutely love them and having a hard time deciding what to do. I would like to restore them to fully functional / new condition and use them if it's not to much work. Are parts still available for these, the dryer needs a new front seal for example. What if the washer transmission needs to be rebuilt? would having them repainted the same original color devalue them at all? I ok with putting a couple grand into them to make them perfect again if I can.


Post# 542866 , Reply# 1   9/10/2011 at 22:22 (2,987 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        
Washer and Dryer

Washer and Dryer

Post# 542868 , Reply# 2   9/10/2011 at 22:28 (2,987 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I also picked up what I think is a 1978 Maytag washer that is not in as good physical condition scratches and dents) but works perfectly, I'm wondering if it can be used for parts if needed.

Post# 542877 , Reply# 3   9/10/2011 at 23:31 (2,987 days old) by mixfinder ()        

Yes, yes and yes these machines can be pressed into daily service and should perform faithfully.  Many parts are available and if you watch Ben's threads of swaps and changes you'll see how easy he makes it all look to forage in working machines to save quality vintage units.

Post# 542882 , Reply# 4   9/11/2011 at 00:01 (2,987 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

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My, what jewels these appear to be!

Post# 542915 , Reply# 5   9/11/2011 at 07:08 (2,987 days old) by westingman123 ()        


Post# 542949 , Reply# 6   9/11/2011 at 08:45 (2,987 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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A few of the parts from the 1978 Maytag may be interchangeable with your pink 142(S?) but many will not. The pink washer is a very early, one of the first actually, of the helical-drive Maytag machines from about 1957-58. With some work and maintenance, you should be able to get those pink beauties running nicely. They are certainly worth the effort, beautiful!

Post# 543113 , Reply# 7   9/11/2011 at 19:56 (2,986 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Stunning; absolutely stunning. Do you have photos of the interior? That looks like an AMP lid; one of the last, I would guess. This must be the suds saver model, huh?

Post# 543191 , Reply# 8   9/12/2011 at 07:09 (2,986 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada)        

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Was Maytag the only manufacturer to make a matching washer/dryer set with the dryer being so much larger than the washer? 



Post# 543237 , Reply# 9   9/12/2011 at 10:54 (2,985 days old) by mixfinder ()        

Whirlpool and Hotpoint had wider dryers and I'm sure there must have been others.

Post# 543272 , Reply# 10   9/12/2011 at 15:06 (2,985 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I connected the hoses and turned on the washer. The water flows into the basin and right out the drain. I doubt that is what it's supposed to be doing right? It looks like I'll need to tear into it. What should I look at first?

Post# 543275 , Reply# 11   9/12/2011 at 15:17 (2,985 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)        
Beautiful machines

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When filling make sure the drain hose is raised to sink or standpipe drain level. If the hose is laying on the floor or lower than the tub , the water will just run out due to gravity.

You should remove the service panel on the machine and do a visual check inside as well. If you get it to hold water, fill it with hot and let it sit awhile before turning the machine on so the seals have some time to soften a little.

Good Luck - glad you want to save the machines rather than make a quick profit.

Post# 543279 , Reply# 12   9/12/2011 at 15:38 (2,985 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

wow, thanks for the quick response, that was the problem. I still have a couple minor drips inside but I was able to fill the tub just fine.

Post# 543280 , Reply# 13   9/12/2011 at 15:47 (2,985 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I'm still trying to pin down the year so here are a couple more pictures.

Post# 543282 , Reply# 14   9/12/2011 at 15:49 (2,985 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I replaced both bulbs and the small incandescent bulb works fine but the fluorescent bulb doesn't work.

Post# 543285 , Reply# 15   9/12/2011 at 16:08 (2,985 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)        

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You probably need to replace the fluorescent starter. The originals look like the picture but are usually silver and about and an inch and half tall. Just twist and pull out the old one and match the number when buying a new one. They are cheap and often come in a 2-pack. If this doesn't do it then it could be your ballast but try the starter first. You are pressing the (black or red) button on the front to turn it on, right?

Post# 543287 , Reply# 16   9/12/2011 at 16:24 (2,985 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Nice set! I'd put these as early as 1957 - the two piece AMP style lid was used on the briefly lived 141 and very early 142 model washers. Post the serial number off the machine, it should look something like 34256GF. The two letters will tell us the year and month the washer was made (as well as serial number from the dryer).

These also do not use the FS-2 starters. Instead the red and black push buttons control the panel bulb. Hold the red button until the bulb starts to glow on the ends. Release the button and it should light. These switches are known for going out, and when they do, are difficult to shut off. The tub light bulb is inside the two piece lid. Replace it with a 15w bulb bayonet bulb from your local hardware or box store. Make sure it has dual pins.

Your dryer door may not be latching due to the gasket no longer applying pressure to the door. You can compensate this by adding shim washers to the dryer door interior panel (disassembly of the door required). If the shimming does not apply enough pressure, or the gasket is just that dried out, a replacement gasket may be needed. Unfortunately those early style HOH gaskets have been NLA for quite some time now. Finding a good replacement may be tricky.

Let us know if you have any more questions --


Post# 543295 , Reply# 17   9/12/2011 at 17:04 (2,985 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Really lovely old machines. My Aunt Dusty and Uncle Arthur in Lexington Massachusetts had a white  pair like these in their great old house on Muzzey Street. I remember watching her press the fill-control button on the underside of the lid as she added detergent to the load she was washing. I never understood that the dial also on the underside of that lid was what controlled the fill level until I saw it described here. Are these the washers that have the white porcelain washbasket that is bolted to an outer solid one?

Post# 543304 , Reply# 18   9/12/2011 at 18:20 (2,985 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

Thanks for the tip Ben, I was able to get the fluorescent bulb lit. The button was just stuck. The serial # for the washer is 219849PG and the dryer is 611838.

Post# 543308 , Reply# 19   9/12/2011 at 19:56 (2,985 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)        
I stand corrected

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I was just guessing (which I shouldn't do) since my 806 model uses the starter.

Thank you for clarifying Ben. I learned something new!

Chris- Glad you got the button unstuck. Any luck with running the washer yet?


Post# 543483 , Reply# 20   9/13/2011 at 21:40 (2,984 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Those Maytags

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have a georgelousity index of 12! two above ten!

Nice find, now lets see a tub shot please!


Post# 543490 , Reply# 21   9/13/2011 at 22:40 (2,984 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Washer date - May of 1958. Get the two letters at the end of the dryer serial and we'll be able to identify it as well - more than likely it will be close to washer date.

Post# 543491 , Reply# 22   9/13/2011 at 22:51 (2,984 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

The letters on the dryer are PF. I'll get a pic of the tub in the morning. It's pretty white and looks well used. There's no rust in the tub.

Post# 543492 , Reply# 23   9/13/2011 at 22:52 (2,984 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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PF = 1958/April.

Yes! A tub shot would be great. Curious to see if it has the early gold anodized filter, or the standard 1958-1964 SS filter.

Does the tub light work?


Post# 543493 , Reply# 24   9/13/2011 at 22:56 (2,984 days old) by GadgetGary (Bristol,CT)        

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Does the tub light work?


Post# 543495 , Reply# 25   9/13/2011 at 23:03 (2,984 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

The tub light in the dryer? Where's the filter located so I can check it out.?

Post# 543501 , Reply# 26   9/13/2011 at 23:43 (2,984 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        
Filter 1

Filter 1

Post# 543502 , Reply# 27   9/13/2011 at 23:44 (2,984 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

Filter 2

Post# 543545 , Reply# 28   9/14/2011 at 08:48 (2,984 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Ah, I should have been more specific. A tub shot of the washer :) There is a bulb in the dryer and is accessible by removing the filter and the guard to the blower housing. A new 40w appliance bulb will fit nicely.

Here is a photo of Rickr's pink 1958 Maytag washer. You'll notice a light shining from the bottom left corner of the lid in the picture.

There is a small rectangle cut out in the bottom of the lid that faces down towards the tub. A 15w bulb is triggered inside via a mercury switch. If the light does not come on, it is time to replace this essential bulb. The washer won't work correctly without it! :)


Post# 543552 , Reply# 29   9/14/2011 at 09:35 (2,984 days old) by lesto (Atlanta)        

Can you give us a tub shot of the washer? You can tell from the agitator if it's a helical drive or an AMP but judging from the lid I think it's the very last AMP model.

Post# 543559 , Reply# 30   9/14/2011 at 10:32 (2,983 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Les - the 1957 141 and early 1958 142 washers were indeed helical drive, with the standard Bakelite helical drive agitator w/ filter. They used the AMP top and two-piece lid until late 1958.

By the end of 1958, early 1959, the updated top and single piece lid with the ball hinges was released.


Post# 543642 , Reply# 31   9/14/2011 at 22:42 (2,983 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        
here's a pic of the tub.

here's a pic of the tub.

Post# 543702 , Reply# 32   9/15/2011 at 10:48 (2,982 days old) by EPiXNiCROS ()        

I opened up the lid and there are two mercury switches but the bulb was burned out. I'll replace it tonight and hope it works.

Post# 543714 , Reply# 33   9/15/2011 at 12:46 (2,982 days old) by mixfinder ()        
Replacement Agitator

I wonder the agitator is a harbinger of a transmission replacement, which may be a good thing.

Post# 1035653 , Reply# 34   6/18/2019 at 16:23 by Dgray316 (Elizabeth, Illinois )        
Wiring diagram

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I was wandering if you would take a picture of the wiring diagram on the back of this dryer for me I have one and need it. If you can gat a clear shot of it and email it to me at or text it to my phone 608-371-3619

Post# 1035662 , Reply# 35   6/18/2019 at 21:03 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Here you go. The DE700 is the later revised model number of the 641C.

  View Full Size
Post# 1035903 , Reply# 36   6/21/2019 at 07:20 by Dgray316 (Elizabeth, Illinois )        

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Thank You!

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