Thread Number: 36603
How to remove a drum from a Hotpoint 9524? 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 544840   9/21/2011 at 05:49 (4,463 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        

Hi
Can someone tell me how to remove a drum from a Hotpoint 9524 as I will be restoring one in the near future!

Thanks.
Daniel

Post# 544844 , Reply# 1   9/21/2011 at 06:16 (4,463 days old) by dascot (Scotland)        

IIRC it is not too complicated, provided you have necessary tools. I've never done it, but there are various guides around, both on here and on the web in general. Just a quick google search brings up various tutorials on how to do it.

Just a tip though - it might be a good idea for you to keep all your questions about this machine in one thread which you already started, instead of starting multiple new ones.

Post# 544848 , Reply# 2   9/21/2011 at 06:26 (4,463 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
9524

 Thanks, I will do that in the future but then know one will see my question!

Post# 544850 , Reply# 3   9/21/2011 at 06:33 (4,463 days old) by dascot (Scotland)        

If it's in a thread about restoring the 9524, then anyone who is interested (and/or has answers/help/support for you) will be reading the thread anyway :)

Post# 544852 , Reply# 4   9/21/2011 at 06:35 (4,463 days old) by boschlover1997 ()        
how to....

 yes they will, because after someone comments on it it goes right back up to the top of the page. so keep it in one because then you cause clutter it you dont.
anyway cutting to the chase, as dascot said, theres giudes on the internet.
This is a very simple job but very time consumng. what you will need to do it
1: remove the lid and the door seal (possibly fascia (unsure))
2: remove motor of the top of the drum and disconnect the wire after unhooking the belt.
3: take the weights off the top and possibly front of the outer tub,
4: whilst someone else holds the drum up (by this time it will be light because of no motor of weights) take the springs off
5: help them to lift the drum out.
6: when drum is out, take the two halfs of the outer tub apart (using a spanner most likely), and take the spider off.
7: once the drum is dismantled, ( leaving the front half on) take the bearring out and give the back of the drum, the outer tub inside and where the bearring goes a good clean.
8: fit the new bearring, reverse process.
This is a detailed idea of how to do it if not exact it will be very similar
George :)

Post# 544853 , Reply# 5   9/21/2011 at 06:36 (4,463 days old) by boschlover1997 ()        

ps: removing the drum is everything up until stage 5. i added bearrings just incase they were broken:)
George

Post# 544889 , Reply# 6   9/21/2011 at 09:25 (4,463 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Is this one of the 1980s Hotpoints with the brown dashboard?

They are very easy to service in that you DON'T have to remove the the outer drum.

The drum isn't in two halves, it is a whole drum with a removable front ring.

So you don't have to remove any of the concrete weights and the outer drum stays in place too. The motor stays, too.

I have done up a 9560W, and some later ones sold here in Australia badged as a GE. (Hotpoint washers weren't sold here, mine is a privately imported orphan.)
POWER DISCONNECTED!!
Remove lid. detach front of door seal - requires removing plastic arcs above and below seal edge. (3 screws each?) push front of door seal back into drum.
Unscrew door lock fitting on front of washer and push it in. With door seal removed you can reach in and detach it.
Unscrew 3 screws along bottom of front panel (the sheetmetal with the porthole in it.) From memory that is enough to drop the panel down and remove it.
now you can see the front of the drum assembly.
Take clear photos of where the wires attach to the heater element and the thermostat sensor on front of drum. Disconnect them.
Undo the clamp that holds the door boot to the front of the drum, and remove it. (clamp and boot)
Undo all the spring clips around the edge of the drum. Pull the plastic front off the drum. The heating element is still attached and will come out with the front of the drum.
Now turn the machine round and remove the back panel.
THIS NEXT BIT CAN BE DANGEROUS.
I ENDED UP IN HOSPITAL, TWENTY YEARS AGO APPROX - I STILL HAVE THE SCARS AND OTHER PERMANENT DAMAGE.
the opening at the back is SHARP sheetmetal with nasty cuts and protrusions.

The big drum pulley on these has a big thread and screws onto the drum shaft, with a big locknut behind. An unusual method, they are VERY hard to undo.
Remove the belt.
Place the right size socket on the locknut. You will need a long handle and plenty of muscle. Wear leather welders gloves to protect your hands.
Stick a lever through the spokes of the pulley and into the deep valleys moulded into the plastic at the back of the drum. The idea is to stop the pulley from turning while you undo the big nut.
Undo the big nut. Take great care - it is VERY tight, and when it lets go your hand will want to fly out and whack that jagged sheetmetal, severing a tendon in your hand and putting you in hospital. (the voice of experience)

When you have undone the nut, you will have to get an assistant to grip the inner drum from the front of the machine, and unscrew the big pulley. It too might be very tight, take care.
Once the pulley is off, refit the big nut and screw it up till the end of the nut is level with the end of the thread of the shaft - no thread left showing at the back.
Use a plastic faced or wooden mallet to whack the nut back in, to force the shaft in through the bearings. When the nut is up against the rear bearing (can't go any further) then remove the nut and pull the drum through. (may need more whacks on the shaft with the soft faced hammer.) DON"T use a steel hammer, you will wreck the nut and shaft threads.

Remove bearings and main seal, clean up, re-assemble , test.

Be careful when refitting the round drum front and heating element - the element needs to mate in with a mount inside the bottom of the drum, if you don't slot it in right, then on spin the element will whack up and down against the spinning drum, making an incredible noise. On mine the element mount was broken, I had to improvise one with a stainless steel bolt, nuts and washers.
The mount is just above the drain outlet in the bottom of the drum.

While you are in there, observe that the drain outlet is about half an inch above the floor of the drum, so a little soapy water stays back after each pump out and spin - why did they do that? Such a stupid design.

I understand that these washers are fondly remembered in the UK but I actually think they are a bloody awful machine - the "suds trap" in the drum floor mentioned above; they eat motor brushes, especially the faster spin machines; they are ridiculously noisy on spin - the motor screams, the panels vibrate and buzz; they don't rinse very well either.

Good luck and be careful.

Post# 544890 , Reply# 7   9/21/2011 at 09:27 (4,463 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Hi George

 Yeah the bearings rumble when the drum is turned by hand. I will try look for some guides. It's going to be a hard job but should be able to do it! Mums going to get the tools needed. But what I'm afraid of is that Once i've replaced the bearings and the motor, it STILL wont work! That's if it doesn't work already!

Post# 547770 , Reply# 8   10/6/2011 at 11:59 (4,448 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Update:

 I will drag the 9524 to a socket and test it out to see if it sill works. If so, I will then have it resprayed and order some new sidestrips, maybe a lid and definatly a brand new set of bearings!

Many Thanks Guys appreciate all your help and get some pics DEFINATLY within a week or two!

Daniel :)

Post# 547795 , Reply# 9   10/6/2011 at 13:17 (4,448 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Gizmo:

 Ever so sorry I have only just saw your message. It's going to be a tougth job and It will take it's time! Have you got Facebook? If so type in nottsdaniel@hotmail.co.uk. Anyway So the drum just needs pulling out? I have an idea of what you mean, In your experiance I don't really understand how they can be awful? They are loud but have there own character about them and do wash quiet well. That's what I like about them. They are deeply loved here in the UK that's why I'm not chucking it! Would be nice If I could have a friend to help me with the restoration but unfortunatly most live quiet far from me :(

Thanks for the tips
Daniel Keetley.

Post# 547803 , Reply# 10   10/6/2011 at 13:50 (4,448 days old) by hooverzanmiele (Scunthorpe, UK)        
Hotpoint Aquarius 9524

 hooverzanmiele's profile picture
Aye up Daniel,

I'd recommend you invest, or borrow from the library a copy of the Haynes washer manual.

It provides the procedure for renewal of the door seal, but would come in use for stipping it down during the resto.

I'll also be on hand to help you through it verbally if needed.

I've added a pic of the manual to look for.

CJ

Post# 547805 , Reply# 11   10/6/2011 at 13:55 (4,448 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Hey CJ

 Hey CJ

Thanks for that I'll be sure to take a look!
I might pop down tho the library tommorow and take a gander :)

Cheers Daniel.

Post# 547825 , Reply# 12   10/6/2011 at 14:53 (4,448 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hi Daniel.

As has been mentioned, it is a big job you are undertaking, but so long as you remember what wire goes where you should be OK. Take those pictures, write down descrptions or label the wires.

Also as has been mentioned DO source a copy of the Haynes manual - the blue edition, with a bloke tinkering in the back of a brown facia Bendix on the front cover - details 95s bearings and very good explanations on how to do the job.

An old thread of ours, from back in 2008, should give you a bit of insight into what awaits you with your 9524W...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO matchboxpaul's LINK
Post# 547832 , Reply# 13   10/6/2011 at 15:29 (4,448 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

As Chris (Gizmo) mentions - DO BEWARE OF ALL METAL EDGES - in particular the edge of the back panel, once the removable panel has been removed to reveal the back of the drum.

The edge is pretty much razor blade sharp and, if you arent careful, you will cut yourself BADLY.
Maybe best wear a pair of gardening gloves or something, till your discover where the dangerous edges are.



95s bodyshells are modular in construction:

- remove the lid.

- remove the powder drawer, by pulling it out to where it stops and then giving it a sudden yank to get it over the stop - when giving the sudden yank DONT be holding the drawer by the facia! It will probably break!!!
Hold the drawer by the drawer itself, with one hand on either side.
Removal of the drawer will reveal screws holding the facia to the bodysell at the left hand side.

- look at the programmer from the top and you will see a gap in the moulding of the facia. Through this gap you will see the shaft of the actual dial - turn the dial till a screw appears.
Turn this screw anti-clockwise to loosen the screw and then you can pull the dial away from the machine.
Removal of the dial will reveal two small screws - these hold the facia to the machine at the right hand side.

- Remove the screws, that have been revealed through removing the powder drawer and the dial, and the main facia can then be removed.

- This will then reveal three screws, which hold the main front panel to the machine at the top.

From this point, go upto Gizmo's instructions and you should be OK.

Good luck and BE CAREFUL!

Paul
p.s below is a scrap 9524W, that I picked up for a tenner a year or so ago. It cleaned up so well that it is now a preserved machine in the safe hands of another collector.
Hotpoint 95's are still all over the place!
Get in with a local shop that takes in scrap machines or trade ins and see if they can source you an old machine for parts.


Post# 547848 , Reply# 14   10/6/2011 at 17:09 (4,448 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Matchboxpaul

 Thank you ever so much for the info and the pic, that machine looks brilliant and does it work? My 9524 hasn't got a back panel and the lid is missing also (Which I have located on the floor) Everything looks in good con (wires, timer, valves etc.) The motors looking like its covered with something? It hasn't got it's original drum unfortunatly but it doesn't matter as long as the bearings are changed. It's got the wrong door bowl. (I believe it has the 9325 dryer bowl which I fount also) looking round the back of it, It has also got a tremendous amount of rust on the bottom back frame. Will the frame still be ok? But anyway, It needs new sidestrips which are very easily brought on the internet, the fascia I will try and locate at a later date, the drawer and dial are in mint condition, just needs a clean, the front panel iself has blotchy rust spots on it and the side panels in the corners. It looks worser than it probably is at the moment but hopefully after a vigarous cleanup, it should look at least clean!

What do you reccomend for cleaning em up?

By the way that 9524 of yours looks mint! NEW!

Post# 547987 , Reply# 15   10/7/2011 at 14:08 (4,447 days old) by HotpointFan (United Kingdom)        
Matchboxpaul

 hotpointfan's profile picture
"Get in with a local shop that takes in scrap machines or trade ins and see if they can source you an old machine for parts."

Do you know of any?

Thanks

Jacob

Post# 548064 , Reply# 16   10/8/2011 at 03:16 (4,446 days old) by aquarius8000 ()        

Down here, yes, otherwise no.

Post# 548557 , Reply# 17   10/10/2011 at 18:53 (4,444 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Paul

 had to have a little chuckle to my self, revisiting the old 95620 thread, oh how times moved on,I didn't even need to look up the model number and how storage space has filled up since then. I remember reading mikes comment on me leaning the panel against the hoover dryer, feeling as if I'd let you all down with my slap dash attitude, in reality I was just so keen to get on and help with the repair. And another memory Mike it was back then, the next bearing change was going to be your electra (creda) what happened, well not the repair but the first of the meets and then many many new friendships formed.

Daniel, do look over this thread if just for the photos, and if I recommend one tool to get it's a socket to fit the nut on the pulley, spanners are just not up to it, it shouln't be more than £10 and will fit any half inch drive socket set, try halfords or an independant automotive shop. Then if you fit the socket to a long handled rachet, like you would use for a wheel change on a car and a chock of wood to lock the pulley you may just about get the nut loose. on some machines I've worked on you are almost lifting the whole machine off the floor with the torque required.

Follow all the advice given above and all the best with the repair

Mathew

Post# 548603 , Reply# 18   10/10/2011 at 21:54 (4,444 days old) by hotpointfan95 ()        
Thanks everyone

 Thanks you've all been great help!


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