Thread Number: 36662
The rebirth of a 1956 Whirlpool Imperial Laundry Pair
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Post# 545568   9/24/2011 at 08:53 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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Yesterday Paul (turqouisedude) from Canada arrived in Beltsville to deliver 2 vintage appliances and to take possesion of  the 1956 Whirlpool Imperial  Laundry Pair that he is getting from John Lefever....here is a picture Revinkevin took of the pair last October .......while he is here he and John are going to rebuild the washer.....




This post was last edited 09/24/2011 at 09:13



Post# 545569 , Reply# 1   9/24/2011 at 08:55 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        
I was was there to see the start of the tear down process an

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1


Post# 545571 , Reply# 2   9/24/2011 at 08:57 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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2


Post# 545572 , Reply# 3   9/24/2011 at 08:59 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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3   Tub seems to be in really nice shape


Post# 545574 , Reply# 4   9/24/2011 at 09:00 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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4


Post# 545575 , Reply# 5   9/24/2011 at 09:01 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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5. Hmmm...... maybe a little lubrication will help.......


Post# 545576 , Reply# 6   9/24/2011 at 09:03 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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6. Then again maybe not...........sorry for the fuzzy picture I caught John in mid swing


Post# 545577 , Reply# 7   9/24/2011 at 09:04 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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7. Even down between the outer tub and the cabinet looked pretty clean....


Post# 545578 , Reply# 8   9/24/2011 at 09:08 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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8. and here is what is behind that awesome control panel


Post# 545579 , Reply# 9   9/24/2011 at 09:10 (4,570 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)        

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another shot from the other side....unfortunately these are all the pictures I had time to take before I had to leave but there will be more photos to come if not taken by me then I am sure they will be taken by John or Paul stay tuned...PAT COFFEY


Post# 545943 , Reply# 10   9/26/2011 at 17:32 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Just got the photos I took during the weekend and the restoration process transferred - I took TONS but in the interest of not clogging up the board, I am not going to post each and every one as there have been other threads about reviving a Whirlpool/Kenmore (and yes, Inglis, too!) washer. I am going to document the process however and I will try to figure out how to post the finished product.
Now, on this particular washer, initial testing turned up a few issues... The motor started up and ran smoothly, but the washer wanted to spin and agitate at the same time and the tell-tale squeal heard meant bad bearings.
So, out came the original transmission!


Post# 545944 , Reply# 11   9/26/2011 at 17:34 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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The original bearings were pounded out and the term 'shot to hell' applies here. Look at how bad they are compared to new ones!!

Post# 545945 , Reply# 12   9/26/2011 at 17:38 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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The new ones look much better.

Post# 545948 , Reply# 13   9/26/2011 at 17:46 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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The new transmission is an 80s model - compatible and very durable; it should last a few more years!!

Post# 545949 , Reply# 14   9/26/2011 at 17:50 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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I don't know why, but I thought of toggles when I read the instructions on this can...

Post# 545950 , Reply# 15   9/26/2011 at 17:53 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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New transmission, clutch, and belt are ready for re-installation!

Post# 545952 , Reply# 16   9/26/2011 at 17:57 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Fast forward to the tub re-installation - just needs a drive block and an agitator...

Post# 545953 , Reply# 17   9/26/2011 at 18:00 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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No, not that one...

Post# 545954 , Reply# 18   9/26/2011 at 18:01 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Or that one!

Post# 545955 , Reply# 19   9/26/2011 at 18:04 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Moment of truth! The electrics seemed good - lots of lights to light up on this beauty!

Post# 545956 , Reply# 20   9/26/2011 at 18:06 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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We replaced 8, yes 8, light bulbs on this machine. But what a cool control panel!

Post# 545957 , Reply# 21   9/26/2011 at 18:09 (4,567 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Wow! That's a nice set! Congratulations!

Post# 545958 , Reply# 22   9/26/2011 at 18:09 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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After a false start (a bit of a mis-wiring issue on the timer due to having scrubbed the wire identification marker off the wire... D'OH!) the machine started up and ran wonderfullY!! We did a couple of loads of rags as a test and the machine cycled through beautifully. All I had to do now was get it and its matched dryer back to Ogden.

Post# 545960 , Reply# 23   9/26/2011 at 18:13 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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I rented this nifty Chevy van to help with the move - the Westy L5 and the 58 GE dryer fit very easily into this, and with help, the 'new' Whirlpool set AND a parts donor machine all fit in nicely. I drove right through from Beltsville to Ogden, and after a few hours snooze this morning, I was ready to unload.
Well, or I thought...


Post# 545961 , Reply# 24   9/26/2011 at 18:17 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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Slight problem... three heavy machines and no 'helpers'...
Recall that there are two ways to do things - the easy way or the 'turquoisedude way'...
I had to come up with a plan 'cause the truck had to go back to the rental place.
After a few tries, I built this ramp to help me out. A large appliance dolly like mine was usless, so I used a standard hand truck. And...


Post# 545962 , Reply# 25   9/26/2011 at 18:24 (4,567 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

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It worked! It was a bit unsteady, but I managed to wrestle the brutes out of the truck and into the garage safely. Next step will be to get them into the house, but I think that may only be in late October due to an upcoming vacation and on-going landscaping work. Hubby is well aware of these machines and they are part of a larger project which I hope to complete this winter.
The machines themselves will need some cosmetic work - I will be repainting them (white) and I am considering having the console end caps rechromed. But these are going to be stunning when completed!
Stay tuned...


Post# 545972 , Reply# 26   9/26/2011 at 19:53 (4,567 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
Restore!

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This is a real great restore. This WP belt drive is one of my favorates.
Enjoy using it.
Best Wishes,
Peter


Post# 545976 , Reply# 27   9/26/2011 at 20:29 (4,567 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
bearing depth

When installing an upper bearing you should use the larger mandrel(assuming you have it) which allows for a deeper bearing depth so 2 large upper seals can be installed .This is what all the later machines had which went a long way in preventing bearing failure.With one seal you run the risk of them failing again which I learned from experience in the 1970s when I did these jobs all the time.It is nice to have a newer transmission with the exception that you lose that super cool clickclick sound the original cam followers made.

Post# 545978 , Reply# 28   9/26/2011 at 20:50 (4,567 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        

Those really are a beautiful set, great job. I am almost surprised the bearing was so worn as they look like low-use machines. From the photos I'd say it could still use the final "detailing" spa-treatment to give them that 59 Cadillac shine so I am looking forward to that though they still look great. Best of luck.

Post# 545993 , Reply# 29   9/26/2011 at 22:49 (4,567 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
they look like low-use machines

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Brian - I was thinking the same thing! The center post and basket nut look factory fresh (after a freshening up!)

Paul - this is a fantastic set to call your own. Congrats on one of the most beautiful Whirlpool sets to come out of Michigan. Love the 80's trans swap - appreciate John's advice on this! I have one on hand in case I ever need it...

Ben


Post# 546004 , Reply# 30   9/27/2011 at 00:15 (4,567 days old) by westingman123 ()        

Oh. My. Gawd.

SCORE!

Keith


Post# 546018 , Reply# 31   9/27/2011 at 05:17 (4,567 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Beautiful Set Paul.

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I remember visiting some friends of the family around 1966 in Lake Placid and she had almost the identical set. It was the same styling which is really cool. They also had a KD12 in the kitchen.

Good Luck with you New Pair. Eddie


Post# 546028 , Reply# 32   9/27/2011 at 06:50 (4,567 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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LOL How wonderful to rebuild!

Thanks for the shout-out! *BLUSH*



Post# 546033 , Reply# 33   9/27/2011 at 07:42 (4,567 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1956 WHIRLPOOL IMPERIAL SUPREME REBUILDING

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Mark you are quite correct about putting the top bearing down farther and installing two top seals. I normally always do this but in the earlier machines the center post was much heavier and the area that the bearings go is bored only deep enough to allow the bearings to be installed at the original depth.

 

These machines were low use machines, the type of bearing wear they had will happen in only a year or so after the top seal wears out and moisture gets in. This washer and dryer sat in my storage for more than twenty years after being rescued by Chuck [ Laundromat ]. Before that they had been moved out to the pool house of a large residence outside of Baltimore Maryland where they probably didn't get much use. It looked like the only repair they had ever had was a new belt and water pump before we attacked them.

 

Even though I have done major rebuilding on hundreds of WP built BD washers over the last 30+ years I could count on one hand the number that were done on pre 1956 machines. 1950s automatic washers of any brand were just not that durable and very few lasted past the end of the 1960s. This was in-spite of the fact that many worked well, were very expensive and people often took very good care of them. In-spite of much cheaper repair costs most consumers would not have these major repairs done. I used to figure that a BD WP or KM would only last 8-12 years of family use before the main bearings looked like these did, this was before WP started putting in two top seals in 1978.

 

I also think that the quality of the seals and plating on the spin tube improved over the years and this helped increase the life of the bearings somewhat even before the dual top seals were used. Paul's just completed machine should last at least 20 years of light use.


Post# 546061 , Reply# 34   9/27/2011 at 11:39 (4,566 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Hello

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Love all the lights, eight of them!--what a blitz, and the giant agitators looking mammoth in the standard tub--the six-finned roto-flex is one of my favorites, and now I understand why John says they won't work in a standard tub.

 

Loved the arms shots, wishing you had included your handsome mugs shots.

 

I think someone in the club has this Whirpool signature machine....Rick....yeah, Rick R., I'm pretty sure.

 

 


Post# 546067 , Reply# 35   9/27/2011 at 12:35 (4,566 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        
Uh-oh

So is there anything that can be done to the bearing seal area if one owns a pre 78 machine? What should I look for or does one just wait for it to fail and then rebuild it like this machine?

Post# 546092 , Reply# 36   9/27/2011 at 14:05 (4,566 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
I'm loving the pics

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And you're doing a great job, congrats. ComboJohn wa very helpful to me with my 1960 Whirlool, he's knowledgeable and sharing.

It's interesting to see the changes thru the years, mine has a very flat=pan, straight lip tup top, no holes in the topmost edge of the inner tub. Keep posting pics and vids, I almost like yours more than mine!


Post# 546131 , Reply# 37   9/27/2011 at 16:19 (4,566 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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RickR has the same set, I never thought I'd see TWO sets!


Post# 546199 , Reply# 38   9/27/2011 at 19:43 (4,566 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
bearing depth

The double seals and lower bearing depth were introduced on the first deep tub whirlpools around 66-67 and then on the standard washers in 1978 as John said.I have installed bearings to the lower depth on many BD whirlpools that previously had the regular depth without problem,you just have you make sure the centerpost area is clear of crud where the new bearing will go.The thing that makes all the difference is the agitator cap seal.When they went to a splined agitator in 1966 then a flatwasher capseal rather then a ringseal in 1968 this greatly reduced/eliminated bearing failures.You could ad this style to this machine but that would then make it a mongrel.I am a purest when it comes to restorations I like them to be as original as possible.It is true those 50s machines had alot of bearing trouble but keep in mind people were dumping 2 heaping cups of tide in there at a time and also the water level on those machines was way up there compared with later ones which also played a part.( some folks out there will disagree with this but I am used to that.)

Post# 546203 , Reply# 39   9/27/2011 at 20:01 (4,566 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1956 WHIRLPOOL IMPERIAL SUPREME REBUILDING

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Mark I never saw dual top seals till around 1974 on the extra big tub washers when they shortened the center post on the extra big tub to the same length as the standard machine. Anyway we will find out this weekend as Gordon [ kenmore-64 ] and I will be tearing into a mint untouched KM 518 that was produced in early 1969. We plan on giving it a good going over along with my 3 speed 1971 LKM super capacity 720 RPM spinning machine. It has suffered a center-post failure and I am going to change out the center post and base-plate. I am disappointed that this happened only 30 years after I rebuilt it. This time I am going to have the center-post and base-plate powder coated.

 

Pictures to follow.


Post# 546235 , Reply# 40   9/27/2011 at 22:17 (4,566 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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John and Mark -

I am very curious about these seals for several reasons. Before I go any further, I'll explain that my work experience on these BDs is probably 75% 1978 and newer machines, as that was where the business was when I was so busy with these in the 90s.

It was my understanding that only the short centerpost machines (again 1978 and later) ever got two bearing seals, though it makes sense that the 1974 large cap. re-design got them too as this centerpost is also potentially "under water" in high-filled tubs.

I have always thought that what allowed some of the earlier standard capacity machines to live on long enough to kill their bearings so completely was that the centerpost was tall enough to keep the bearings largely dry even with bad seals and high water levels. It may be time that I adjust my thinking on that.

I have always been prejudiced against the short post, 1978 and later machines because of my experiences with battle worn machines that "spilled their guts" all over the cabinet innards due to so much water contaminating the centerpost and transmission. I have not seen this to that extent in in any pre-1978 machine, but that truly may have just been coincidence or luck of the draw.

I have come across only one machine, post 1978, that truly had worn bearings that came close to approximating bad bearings in older models. I have attributed this to physical forces being far less in these machines because the bearings are much closer together vs. the older arrangement. Spinning slightly off-balance loads puts pressure on the top bearing due to where the tub drive block is located. This pressure increases as leverage on the bearing increases with the length of the spin tube. Maybe I am whacky there, but that is what I always blamed as the primary reason for bearing wear and failure. It does seem perfectly plausible and logical though that seal failure, allowing water into the bearing, would only wear them that much faster.

On the one 1978+ machine that did really need bearings, it was a 1983 WP standard tub machine that was only 9 years old at the time. Its seals had failed very early on, with the entire cabinet, transmission, and even the motor were covered with thick black goop. I had to use engine degreaser to get rid of it off the cabinet. When taken apart, the bearings were worn paper thin, and there was no shinny surface whatsoever on any part of the spin tube that made contact with the bearings. These bearings were so worn thin that we could not get a bearing pullers 'teeth' on them, but we soon found that they had been so heat baked by friction that what was left crumbled out like dried up rubber. I didn't need any tools to get them out of the centerpost!

One last item related to seals - I am looking forward to experimenting on how to get both of those seals out of a spin tube without taking the bearing underneath them along with. I too am a purist, to the nth degree, and my 1986 BD that I bought new has failed seals, but the bearings aren't worn enough, not in my view anyway, to warrant replacement. I'd prefer to go in there, take the seals out, and replace vs. doing half or all of a bearing job needlessly.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to working on the machines this weekend John, but keep an eye on that 518 - I might just tuck it into my carryon luggage when you're not looking!! Where is Hermione Granger when you need her "undetectable extension charm"? (Harry Potter humor).

Gordon


Post# 546375 , Reply# 41   9/28/2011 at 19:02 (4,565 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        
wp set 1956

my mom had this set when i was young! i rember how the timer snaped whin it moved! it also had suds return an whin solonoid kicked in i would jump then the suds would go into the tub not down the drain. then the neat thing was watching it suck the wash water for the next load!!!! i just remberd the push buttons on the front to open the doors!!!!!

Post# 546377 , Reply# 42   9/28/2011 at 19:09 (4,565 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        
berings

i think the basket was not on true from the factory. cant be out of balance all the tine


Post# 546378 , Reply# 43   9/28/2011 at 19:17 (4,565 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        
wig wag

loved the wig wag loved how the wires moved with it never had a problem with it new machines are junk ben a high end dry cleaner for 27 years and they want the consumer to use these new machines at home? more business for me . the old timers are the best

Post# 546406 , Reply# 44   9/28/2011 at 22:54 (4,565 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
seal replacement

Replacing just the seals is easy,you simply take a medium size flat bladed screwdriver and drive it between the seal and centerpost and pry it out.I have done this many times as you never do better than the bearings that come with the machine the replacements are thinner.I have always attributed bearing failure to moisture and crud contaminating the lubricating turbine oil in the bearing cavity.The lubrication becomes mud,like a contaminated transmission.When I got my first centerpost bearing installer tool in 1975 it came with a big and small upper mandrel.When I did my first bearing job to a deep tub machine it was a 1968 whirlpool and that had the double seals.


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