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Thread Number: 37430
Electronic Sensor dryers: then and now |
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Post# 556472 11/14/2011 at 10:22 (4,692 days old) by Pulsator  (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Running a 220V electric Whirlpool dryer (27 inch machine to be exact) that runs entirely on a computer on 110V... I've done it with a mid to late 90s Kenmore dryer (pic below) but, it seems to have trouble calculating the estimated time remaining. It generally shuts off too soon. I've tried running it on high heat, extra low heat, heavy duty, delicate, etc. And I can't seem to find a way to make it run through a cycle and dry everything all the way the first time around. If I run the same cycle 2-3 times, it can dry everything.
My question is, has anything changed in dryers between then and now in terms of calculating when the clothes are dry? If I bought a new electric dryer and ran it on 110V, would it run into the same problem? I am planning to have both a washer and dryer next year in my apartment but there is no gas or 220V power available. I'd still like the capacity of a full size machine, I don't mind the longer drying times. 
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Post# 556478 , Reply# 1 11/14/2011 at 10:36 (4,692 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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ALL ELECTRONIC WP BUILT DRYERS | ||
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Post# 556543 , Reply# 2 11/14/2011 at 15:47 (4,691 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Post# 556553 , Reply# 3 11/14/2011 at 16:41 (4,691 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Indeed I could but, the dryer is vented into a bathroom with an exhaust fan... I'm not to eager to do that, especially since the vent fan is somewhat weak.
Let's just say it's one of those situations where I have connections that have agreed to turn their heads for me... I'm pretty lucky with this one! :) | ||
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Post# 556576 , Reply# 4 11/14/2011 at 18:01 (4,691 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan) |
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dry er when you run a 220 dryer on 110 it never gets hot enough to get into the paramater of the controles weither humidity sensor, short out wires, or temp time circut. better off just using old fashond time cycle. sorry ! | ||
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Post# 556769 , Reply# 6 11/15/2011 at 10:33 (4,691 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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This is something I have been experimenting with for a while at home. A full size dryer on 110V produces less vapor than a humidifier, the exhaust air is only about 10 degrees warmer than the room. It will be in a bathroom with a vent fan that goes outside. The current setup which I have been experimenting with is next to the gas water heater at my boyfriend's house. Even the venting from that water heater is enough to clear any moisture from the room. I don't foresee any mold issues, if there were any to arise, it would be from taking a shower, not from drying clothes.
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Post# 556904 , Reply# 7 11/15/2011 at 21:36 (4,690 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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So Jamie you're a member of the "dark machine club"! Welcome & NYCE! You want to run a 220V dryer at 110V is that correct?If so it should take almost twice as long to dry if you are using a timed cycle. I bet John's got the answer here, its in the programming. Because the sensor is always going to detect the moisture from the clothes and send that signal to the CPU. And the clothes are only going to dry at the rate the heater element can set. | ||
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Post# 556916 , Reply# 8 11/15/2011 at 22:00 (4,690 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Indeed I have joined! They are not the first and WON'T be the last! I do wish I could avoid using the timed dry cycle. I hate hate the whole guess and check crap! Once I get a system down, it's not too bad but, it takes me months to nail it down and several more months to refine it! I'm hoping getting a mechanically operated dryer will change the situation. If I can find one! I REFUSE to buy a 29 inch Whirlpool machine! I hate them! I will ONLY accept a 27 inch Whirlpool machine. End of story! I've got my eye one with though with a Calypso washer to match... That could be fun!
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Post# 556928 , Reply# 10 11/15/2011 at 23:10 (4,690 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Hmmm.... | ||
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Post# 556972 , Reply# 11 11/16/2011 at 07:34 (4,690 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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27" ELECTRONIC SENSOR DRYERS Jamie all you need is a 27" dryer with a sensor strip on the lint filter housing that has a mechanical timer and no thermistor. I wish you were closer I would give you one today they are very common. This dryer will run until the clothes are dry, you can even disconnect the heater and let things dry with air alone and it will not stop until they are dry.
I am sure you know that when you go from 240 volts to 120 volts the heater only produces 1/4 the heat that is produced on 240 volts. Yet in spite of this it usually only takes three times as long to dry not four times. This is because that more of the drying is being accomplished with the ambient air temperature, so the end result is getting the job done with about 15% less total electricity consumed than drying the load on 240 volts.
Keep in mind that I have never seen any 110 or 220 voltage in this country in my life time, I would be curious to know if someone actually has these voltages at thier home? | ||
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Post# 557049 , Reply# 14 11/16/2011 at 13:38 (4,690 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 557057 , Reply# 15 11/16/2011 at 14:16 (4,690 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Yes Dadoes, | ||
| Post# 557146 , Reply# 17 11/16/2011 at 23:45 (4,689 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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Be very careful about what you ask for John(combo52). Those voltage readings are VERY possible in my house. | ||
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Post# 557148 , Reply# 18 11/16/2011 at 23:52 (4,689 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Won't hurt the motor at all. Runs on one leg of the 240v line with the lights, timer, etc. I used to test dryers all the time in the garage before I had the 240v line out there.
I've seen houses with fuses (not breakers) that can blow on one side of the circuit, saw a range line with that trouble not that long ago. | ||
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Post# 557152 , Reply# 19 11/17/2011 at 00:10 (4,689 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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"There are no 230V 240V or 220V appliance motors in the 
Well domestic versions no, but IIRC most if not all commercial appliances have 220v (or whatever) motors. Wascomat and some other brands do have 110v motors in a narrow "homestyle" range of products but those are intended for semi-commercial use such as in a beauty salon or say a small nursing home that does not have heavy usage requirements.
Seem to recall somewhere that 220v/240v powered motors are more robust than their 110v/120v cousins. | ||
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Post# 557175 , Reply# 20 11/17/2011 at 06:06 (4,689 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Voltages As the country was being quickly wired in the early 1900's, a trade association of electricity producers and distibutors decided on their goal: Absolute max of 125/250V if you lived right next door to an electric plant, and an absolute minimum of 110/230 if you were way out of town, on a farm or something at the very farthest limits of the distribution network. This was further written in stone in the 30's with the TVA and REA. In my home, it fluctuates from 116.6 to 117.8 at different times I've been doing a wiring project. | ||
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Post# 558755 , Reply# 23 11/23/2011 at 10:49 (4,683 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 558762 , Reply# 24 11/23/2011 at 11:20 (4,683 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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