Thread Number: 37457
Need advice on repairing Kenmore washer
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 556964   11/16/2011 at 06:47 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        

I have a Kenmore HD washer model number 110.91121100 that is shaking when in the spin cycle. I have leveled the washer and have rearranged the clothes multiple times to no effect. When I observed the wash tub during the spin cycle it was shaking violently. What I need to know is this a common problem and if so is it an easy fix. Or is the washer on it's way out.

I believe this washer is 20 years old. Not sure though.

Thanks





Post# 556970 , Reply# 1   11/16/2011 at 07:29 (4,516 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Typical cause of this is either a broken spring or worn base pads.

There are three springs that anchor/stabilize the tub to the base, and a 4th spring at the rear that counterbalances the motor at front.

The tub support sits in and atop the base, pivots on three plastic/nylon pads and oscillates on three more pads which wear down over time. An inexpensive and relatively easy fix.

Look up your model at SearsPartsDirect.com to see parts diagrams.


Post# 556971 , Reply# 2   11/16/2011 at 07:34 (4,516 days old) by kenmore700bill (Lodi NJ)        

kenmore700bill's profile picture
Are you on a cement floor or a wood floor? Can be issue of weak floor.
I had this happen to me I went nuts and ended up being the weak spot of the floor where the washer was placed.


Post# 556976 , Reply# 3   11/16/2011 at 08:02 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        
Cement Floor

The house is on a concrete slab and feels stable around the washer.

Thanks DADoES. I will check out searspartsdirect for the parts. Hopefully I will be able to fix this issue.


Post# 556995 , Reply# 4   11/16/2011 at 09:27 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        
Parts web site

Has anyone used appliancepartspros.com. Are the parts there good quality.

Post# 557008 , Reply# 5   11/16/2011 at 10:54 (4,516 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I've used AppliancePartsPros several times.  Factory-packaged parts should be the same quality from any storefront, although some sellers may carry a few substitute/alternate non-factory items.  I search the needed parts (by manufacturer part number) at several sources including eBay to find the best price.  PartsTap.com and AppliancePartsPros.com have a reasonable ground shipping charge that's apparently flat-rate to cover multiple-item orders.


Post# 557014 , Reply# 6   11/16/2011 at 11:09 (4,516 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Balance Ring

mrb627's profile picture
Make sure the balance ring has dumped its contents...

Malcolm


Post# 557016 , Reply# 7   11/16/2011 at 11:26 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        
Checking Balance Ring

How would I check the balance ring. Do I have to remove the washer enclosure to check it. Or can I access it without removing the enclosure.

Post# 557022 , Reply# 8   11/16/2011 at 11:52 (4,516 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Balance ring.....

remove cabinet
remove spash shield
and there it is on top.....

I have removed them and left them out, no big difference.......

one machine would shake and go off balance.....while EMPTY--no load.....removal of balance ring eliminated the problem


Post# 557023 , Reply# 9   11/16/2011 at 11:54 (4,516 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I think Malcolm left a word out ... his advice should read "Make sure the balance ring has *not* dumped its contents..."

The balance ring mounts to the top edge of the inner basket, and is about half-filled with water for ballast. It can be checked without disassembly by shaking the tub and listening for a faint sloshing sound, or there may be a momentary slosh heard when heard when the basket brakes to a stop from full-speed spin.

Can you post a video on YouTube? Is the problem worse with or without clothes, or about the same either way?


Post# 557026 , Reply# 10   11/16/2011 at 12:06 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        
Is the problem worse with or without clothes, or about the s

I believe it is the same either way. I will double check when I get home after work.

If the balance ring is empty is there a way to add water to it. Or is it a sealed unit.


Post# 557028 , Reply# 11   11/16/2011 at 12:18 (4,516 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Sealed, it would have to be replaced.  However, it's unlikely to be the problem, the ring isn't under stress or wear during normal operation that would cause it to leak dry.


Post# 557088 , Reply# 12   11/16/2011 at 16:57 (4,516 days old) by atomranch ()        
Checked out the washer

I removed the cabinet when I got home and all of the springs are attached and look in good shape. I checked out the spin when empty and the tub moves some but not allot. Is this normal? Or should it not move at all. There was a small depression by the right rear foot where the previous owners did some plumbing repairs so I moved the washer to avoid the spot.

Also, I think there was a slight sloshing coming from the balance ring when I stopped the spin cycle. Should this sound be more noticeable? Could it have been the tub brake making the noise as well.

I'm hoping it was the depression in the floor that I missed that was causing the problem.

Thanks for all of the help.


Post# 557111 , Reply# 13   11/16/2011 at 19:52 (4,516 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
BALANCE RINGS

combo52's profile picture

The water level in the balance ring is tested by removing the tub cover and laying the washer on its side, the water should be roughly half full 9 and 3 o'clock. These washers should not be used without the balance ring ,yes the machine will vibrate with no clothes in the tub more with the ring than without the B R. But the machine is not made to be run empty, it won't hurt the machine to run empty but the BR can only work with a clothes load which will always be slightly out of balance. We do see BRs that have lost thier water charge, if this is the case the BR is to be replaced.


Post# 557188 , Reply# 14   11/17/2011 at 07:09 (4,515 days old) by atomranch ()        
Is the washer worth repairing

Thanks again for all of the help everyone. I believe the noise I was hearing was the tub springs when I moved the tub. Not the balance ring sloshing. Looks like the BR is empty.

What I would like to know is if it is worth fixing. The transmission makes a loud clunk when the washer changes to the spin cycle and the washer is a BOL Kenmore and has limited functions. High, low water level switch and the perm press mode runs at the same speed as the normal cycle. I really do not want to sink the money into a washer that is worth 50.00 if that is what it is worth.

Is it worth it? Even if the trans is starting to act up.


Post# 557190 , Reply# 15   11/17/2011 at 08:09 (4,515 days old) by BrianL (Saddle Brook, New Jersey)        
Loud clunk into spin...

brianl's profile picture
With my Whirlpools, the same thing happens as well. My newly acquired Kenmore has one too. There is a definitely clunk, I'm just not sure I would call it loud. Most likely the transmission is ok. You may even notice a clunk after it fills for wash or rinse and goes into agitation mode. For a simple balance ring I would do it; sometimes the simplicity of a BOL machine has it's charms. (Coming from a person who likes MOL or TOL machines lol.)

Though if you feel it is time to move on from your machine, please do consider us here as someone may be interested in the machine themselves.


Post# 557196 , Reply# 16   11/17/2011 at 08:26 (4,515 days old) by atomranch ()        
Is the BR hard to remove

When I had the cabinet and tub cover off I did not see any mounting tabs for the BR. Are these hard to remove? Is a special tool needed to do this?

Post# 557206 , Reply# 17   11/17/2011 at 09:04 (4,515 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        
Clunking Sound

The clunking sounds of the transmission are normal.


When it goes into spin that is just the spin pawl on the neutral pak engaging onto the spin gear.


When the machine goes to drain or agitate, that sound is the agitator cam in the transmission disengaging/engaging the agitator shaft.


As for the BR, I think it just snaps off of the tub.


Post# 557215 , Reply# 18   11/17/2011 at 10:32 (4,515 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
to get the BR off, usually involves a few screw drivers, slid down between the tub and BR to push the plastic clips outward and lift off.......

re-assembly is a matter of placing over the center and slide down onto the tub and these clips hold it in place again, theres also little tabs, where you sort of hold the tub still, and slide the BR until it locks in the little teeth against the tub......

a real simple task.......for many machines a lot of gunk builds up around this area, a good time to add some hot water and with a few slim brushes slid down between the inner and outter tub, and around the BR area, might as well as you have it all apart....don't forget to clean under the splash shield too!


Post# 557226 , Reply# 19   11/17/2011 at 11:21 (4,515 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
BR REMOVAL

combo52's profile picture

I would not remove the BR unless it is broken or the water is gone, used ones do not always go back on tightly. Test first by laying washer on side to see if it is about 1/2 full.


Post# 557248 , Reply# 20   11/17/2011 at 12:24 (4,515 days old) by atomranch ()        
Ordered new Balance Ring

I just ordered a new balance ring from appliancepartspros.com. I will check out the one on the washer when the new one arrives. If it is 1/2 full like combo52 mentioned then I will return the new one. I am tending to believe that this is the issue. I really do not hear any water moving when I push the tub from side to side and all of the springs were where they should be. I just do not want to take apart the washer again just to put it back together to do a load of wash before the part arrives.

Post# 557875 , Reply# 21   11/19/2011 at 17:10 (4,513 days old) by atomranch ()        
Could the springs be weak?

I checked out the balance ring and it was ok. I had to remove it to check since it was a solid color on the top side. It was 1/2 full so that's not it. Cut myself while removing it too which is always fun.

Anyway, when I push the tub to the front of the washer it returns to the center. When I push it to the rear it only returns about 7/8th's of the way. Could the springs just be weak? The pads look ok as far as I can tell. None are missing or worn excessively. The washer does seem a little better since I reseated the ring.


Post# 557881 , Reply# 22   11/19/2011 at 17:50 (4,513 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Cut myself while removing it too which is always fun.
I always get a few finger nicks when doing a refurbish.

Anyway, when I push the tub to the front of the washer it returns to the center. When I push it to the rear it only returns about 7/8th's of the way.
That's largely normal behavior.  My DD Kenmore lingers quite a bit toward whichever direction I push it if I simply move it and let go.  It remains centered when rocked/oscillated around the midpoint.  A broken spring would be indicated if there's a definite lean toward a particular direction at all times.

As suggested previously, posting a brief video of the spin on YouTube, if you can do so (maybe both with and without a load), would clarify what exactly is happening and perhaps lead to further suggestions/diagnosis.


Post# 558379 , Reply# 23   11/21/2011 at 18:46 (4,511 days old) by atomranch ()        
Basket turns off center

Well, I watched the basket startup from the neutral drain and it started up slowly out of round. It was not turning fast at all when this was apparent. It looked like the basket was warped? I am beginning to think it might be time to replace this washer. The problem looks like it might be major and cost more that the washer is worth. Or am I wrong and could it still be a cheap fix.


Post# 558382 , Reply# 24   11/21/2011 at 18:57 (4,511 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Can you put a video of it on YouTube?

The basket can be replaced, not difficult, but it may not be cost-effective depending on what are your standards for cost effectiveness.  Could also be some other problem in that area, such as a broken drive block (which is much less cost than a basket).


Post# 558399 , Reply# 25   11/21/2011 at 20:19 (4,511 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
possible rust

on my '93 24" DD,the top of the washbasket post was rusted and caused runout of
the basket-a replacement basket from a dump grab '97 roper 24"DD fixed the problem.
Possible there is rust between the top of basket post and the aluminum drive block
in that case removal of the corrosion should cure the problem-no new parts needed.
As long as you have access to salvage DD washers or parts or know someone who
does,there is no such thing as an expensive DD washer repair or a DD washer
"not worth repair":)


Post# 558818 , Reply# 26   11/23/2011 at 16:52 (4,509 days old) by atomranch ()        
Posted Video

I posted the video of the off center spin on you tube as was suggested. The washer moved an inch from the dryer on the final spin. If this looks normal let me know.






Post# 558820 , Reply# 27   11/23/2011 at 17:03 (4,509 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
It looks fine to me

akronman's profile picture

I have washers that go lots crazier out of balance and off center than that, and I use them all the time. It does NOT look like any problem at all.


Post# 558829 , Reply# 28   11/23/2011 at 17:59 (4,509 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
That's far from excessive tub oscillation and nothing looks to be wrong with the basket.  The machine moved an inch toward the dryer on this spin?  You said above that it's on a concrete floor so I'm not understanding why it'd creep on that nice of a spin.

Compare to this:


Jeans Final Spin
(spin starts at 1:54)


Post# 558929 , Reply# 29   11/24/2011 at 08:55 (4,508 days old) by atomranch ()        
Laminate on a concrete slab

The wash room is covered by sheet laminate. Probably from the 70's. Is it possible that the feet are dried out and causing the washer to move. The washer feels level. I'll have to recheck it.

Post# 559211 , Reply# 30   11/25/2011 at 17:51 (4,507 days old) by atomranch ()        
My Bad.....................

Thanks everyone for the advice.

After downloading a copy of the Whirlpool service training for DD washers I discovered that I had the washer feet adjusted incorrectly. They needed to be adjusted in towards the frame until the lock nut bottomed out. I had them out too far in my attempt to level the washer. Newbie mistake = learning opportunity.

Thanks Again



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy