Thread Number: 37533
The Hotpoint Customline oven is finally in !!!!!!
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Post# 558119   11/20/2011 at 16:18 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        

Here it is folks. My '57 Customline is working and finally part of the family. A few shots of the internals, new thermostats and extra built in goodies. Thanks again to all the AWO members who helped make this possible. First shot is with the Newly installed Nutone oven exhaust fan.




Post# 558122 , Reply# 1   11/20/2011 at 16:23 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

Back of the dashboard. New 12 gauge range wiring and new Robert Shaw thermostats. What you don't see here is the heat resistant terminals. I installed them later. newly rebuilt timer by Mid American timers. Heat resistant dielectric lube by Caig labs was used on timer switches.

Post# 558123 , Reply# 2   11/20/2011 at 16:27 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

A side view of the dashboard internals. Notice the new thermostats. The shafts were not cut down to size yet. To the lower left you can see the front of an LED replacement bulb. All dashboard lights were replaced with LED's.

Post# 558125 , Reply# 3   11/20/2011 at 16:32 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

One more side view. Clock face was gently cleaned and sprayed with semi gloss poly urethane.

Post# 558126 , Reply# 4   11/20/2011 at 16:34 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

Roast right Thermometer. What a neat accessory !

Post# 558127 , Reply# 5   11/20/2011 at 16:37 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

The clock. It's keeping great time. I'm going to try it on a timed bake soon.

Post# 558128 , Reply# 6   11/20/2011 at 16:39 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

Me, installing the kick plate.

Post# 558129 , Reply# 7   11/20/2011 at 16:42 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

Putting in grates.

Post# 558130 , Reply# 8   11/20/2011 at 16:47 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

"Roto Grill" rotisserie. Kool !!!!! The skeleton motor for the rotisserie was seized so I had to free it. I then lubed it with anti seize.

Post# 558131 , Reply# 9   11/20/2011 at 16:50 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

"Roast Right" thermo meat probe.

Post# 558133 , Reply# 10   11/20/2011 at 16:55 (4,765 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hotpoint shots......

Let's start baking!!!!!

Post# 558138 , Reply# 11   11/20/2011 at 17:21 (4,765 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        
Very well done

vacbear58's profile picture
A great restoration, I hope you get many years service from it

Al


Post# 558169 , Reply# 12   11/20/2011 at 20:07 (4,765 days old) by philcoford (Maryland)        
Great Job

Looks great, ready to serve your for a huge Thanksgiving meal. Thanks for sharing, I had a 61 Hotpoint wall oven and cooktop in Pink in the house I grew up in, and learned to cook on them, so I have a soft spot in my heart for the Hotpoints!


Post# 558171 , Reply# 13   11/20/2011 at 20:13 (4,765 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Kevin, you've done a wonderful job.  Congratulations on everythinng functioning.  I'm extremely impressed you have all the accessories!!  Very nice indeed.  Are both oven cavities the same size or is the upper oven larger than the lower oven? 


Post# 558175 , Reply# 14   11/20/2011 at 21:07 (4,765 days old) by westingman123 ()        

Oh, that's just beautiful.

Post# 558181 , Reply# 15   11/20/2011 at 21:20 (4,765 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
Hotpoint!

peteski50's profile picture
What a beautiful restoration. They certainly don't make anything like this any more.
Best Of Luck!
Peter


Post# 558182 , Reply# 16   11/20/2011 at 21:28 (4,765 days old) by verizonbear (Glen Burnie )        
Very Nice

verizonbear's profile picture
Awesome Oven and Kitchen!

Post# 558183 , Reply# 17   11/20/2011 at 21:41 (4,765 days old) by tlee618 ()        

Kevin, you did a fantastic job on that Hotpoint!!  Have you tried the roto-grill yet?  



Post# 558195 , Reply# 18   11/20/2011 at 23:09 (4,765 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
Looks like it just came out of the box.

We had Hotpoints of the same era. The ovens were separate. One had the exact same Roto Grill, though I don't remember mom ever using it. The house was built in late 1956.


Post# 558241 , Reply# 19   11/21/2011 at 06:53 (4,764 days old) by CUFFS054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

Looks great! Plus you have a REAL vent fan. We had one in our 50's FL house and I still miss it. Even my super-dupper-wizz-bang cost big bucks hood doesn't do the same job as those do.

Post# 558247 , Reply# 20   11/21/2011 at 07:18 (4,764 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
BEAUTIFUL!

Simply BEAUTIFUL!!

Post# 558250 , Reply# 21   11/21/2011 at 07:34 (4,764 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Customline sez...........

Thanks for all the kind words everyone. The only accessory I didn't have was the meat probe and I found that on Fleabay. The exhaust fan was also a Fleabay find. The top oven is wider than the bottom but the same depth. I'm making rotisserie chicken today in it and I'll be referring to the recipe and procedure in the original manual. You have to make sure you run the rotisserie motor every once in a while to keep it from seizing up. I used 12 and 14 gauge range wire for the resto. In the upper compartment behind the dashboard, heat builds up so you want everything heat resistant there.There is no timed bake in the lower oven, only the top. There is a broiler in the lower oven though. I'll let you know how the chicken comes out.

Post# 558260 , Reply# 22   11/21/2011 at 09:44 (4,764 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Pink with envy

bajaespuma's profile picture

Great job! Those ovens are so great and put anything that's on the market today to shame. Is that rotisserie actually built to accommodate the spit at two different levels?!Q?? I always thought it was smart for Hotpoint to offer two different sized ovens on their double-oven models.

 

You need to put that frozen pizza in the bottom oven to defrost, go to an expensive butcher and get an 8-lb. bottom-round rotisserie roast tied with a 1/2" fat cap. Do that beautiful appliance proud.


Post# 558317 , Reply# 23   11/21/2011 at 13:03 (4,764 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Answer for Bajaespuma

Yes, The rotisserie has two levels to accommodate different size items. I'll do my best to make this appliance live up to it's potential. Happy Thanksgiving !!!!!!!

Post# 558349 , Reply# 24   11/21/2011 at 15:30 (4,764 days old) by kevin313 (Detroit, Michigan)        
Two words:

kevin313's profile picture
Absolutely fabulous!!

Post# 558387 , Reply# 25   11/21/2011 at 19:24 (4,764 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hey Kevin.........

Saw your turkey preparation video. Thanks for all the good advice and thanks for checking out my oven picks.

Post# 559265 , Reply# 26   11/25/2011 at 23:59 (4,760 days old) by 1952Crestwood ()        
What a dream!

Congrats on your beautiful Customline oven! I love Hotpoint appliances like that myself and have always drooled over the ovens just like yours. Great job on the restoration too. An oven like yours in a turquoise with a matching cooktop would be one of my ultimate dreams. Enjoy it for many years to come!
Robyn


Post# 560283 , Reply# 27   11/29/2011 at 20:52 (4,756 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        
Yes, your COOK TOP, "Customline"...! What Brand?

daveamkrayoguy's profile picture
Thank you for showing off this neat little project, CUSTOM LINE!

I remember a house my mom, sister & I babysat at having a single built-in HOTPOINT oven in pink & somehow NO cooktop, which has me wondering: What make is yours?

The house had an Admiral top freezer fridge, a Montgomery Ward MENU MAGIC gas range (which got used instead of the oven) and an unused Frigidaire double-oven (large self cleaning & small "Tender Matic") 40" Custom Imperial electric range (with a broken knob, which one of you guys could probably easily fix; it fell of its bracket behind the plexi-glass) shoved up against a wall in a dining area part of the kitchen (which had no chairs or table, just used for storage; it was a big kitchen)...


-- Dave


Post# 560372 , Reply# 28   11/30/2011 at 09:33 (4,755 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
The cooktop........

Is also a Hotpoint from the same year and same series although it is the basic model, not the top of the line. The top of the line cooktop for that year would have had a back dashboard with a clock and minute timer. I found my cooktop in someone's driveway ready to be thrown out !!!! After cleaning out bugs and leaves I commenced on a full restoration. The oven was found on a porch also ready for the garbage. I got real lucky with these. Next is the pink Hotpoint refrigerator from '56. I have to wire in a grounded cord and adjust the door. Wait 'till you see that !!!!! Then the Hotpoint kitchen is complete.

Post# 560399 , Reply# 29   11/30/2011 at 13:21 (4,755 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Fantastic!!

If you love Hotpoint, you need to come to Mocksville for a visit, Our local Furniture store has been a Hotpoint dealer since 1949, and any stove he gets in on trade that is old, he keeps!!! He has a building full of old stoves and old cars!!

Post# 889925 , Reply# 30   7/18/2016 at 21:07 (3,063 days old) by Mike0918 (Columbus, OH)        
Question

Hello - You did an awesome job on that! I don't know if anyone still monitors this thread, but we have an oven just like that (except in turquoise) that needs some rewiring. I wanted to take the doors off to make it easier to pull out, but can't figure out how they come off. If someone could help me out with how to remove them, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks... Mike


Post# 889985 , Reply# 31   7/19/2016 at 09:10 (3,062 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Hi Mike............

Concerning your doors, you don't want to take something apart off that oven that you don't need to so I would leave them on. When you pull the unit out of the wall, just make sure the grates are out and (along with another person because these units are heavy) pull with one hand from the inside and pull carefully on a door from the outside. I would suggest when you pull the oven out of the wall that you lay it on a rolling flat cart so it is mobile. The wiring schematic is located on the back of the unit so take a photo of it and then photocopy it a couple of times. Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck on your restoration.

Post# 890216 , Reply# 32   7/20/2016 at 21:15 (3,061 days old) by Mike0918 (Columbus, OH)        
Thanks

Sounds good, thanks for your help!

Post# 901401 , Reply# 33   10/1/2016 at 15:55 (2,988 days old) by Robb (MN)        
Rota-grill

I have the same hotpoint oven in a '58 built house. The Rota-grill doesn't work. I'm also missing the middle top switch above the light switch. Was wondering if this switch I'm missing controls the rotisserie? Are the motors easy to unseize? I take it the whole oven has to be slid out to unseize the motor? Please advise. Thank you!

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Post# 901632 , Reply# 34   10/3/2016 at 15:06 (2,986 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Your rotisserie motor.............

Is mounted in the back of the unit and the oven would have to come out of the wall to get at it. Two wires are connected to it and four screws hold it in. It's a step down or "skeleton" motor and they are very durable but they take a lot of soaking to get them un seized. I soaked mine in a combination of WD40 and STP for three days until it freed up but it was worth it. Make sure that when you re install it that you lube it up lightly with Anti Seize. This lubricant can be found at any auto parts store. The on off button for this motor can be found at any hardware electrical department. Your oven looks great !!!!

Post# 952001 , Reply# 35   8/7/2017 at 18:08 (2,678 days old) by midcentnurse (Lake Charles, La)        

midcentnurse's profile picture
That is amazing! Looks really good. We just found a Hotpoint single oven in yellow in great shape someone was throwing out. Only problem is it's electric, but we have had bigger challenges and won ;) Will update with pics soon.

Post# 952131 , Reply# 36   8/8/2017 at 09:36 (2,677 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
To midcentnurse.............

I would love to see your yellow oven !!!! Please post pictures. Do you know what year it is ?

Post# 952153 , Reply# 37   8/8/2017 at 11:34 (2,677 days old) by midcentnurse (Lake Charles, La)        

midcentnurse's profile picture
heres a couple of pics. ill need to repaint the door unfortunately, our kitchen is turquoise. Im missing the crown emblem too.. I never really paid attention to these Hotpoints but theyre fantastic! Awesome 50s industrial style. Kind of like the old air cooled 911's, everybody was looking for the next improvement, now theyre realizing those were the best and theyre untouchable now! It'll probably be awhile before we can tackle this project, but will keep updating, and any help with install etc is greatly appreciated, no better advice on the interweb! ;)

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Post# 1071210 , Reply# 38   5/7/2020 at 12:59 (1,674 days old) by tannerS (CANTON)        
Help with parts

Hello! Hopefully someone can help me out... I have just recently bought a home with a HotPoint wall oven and love it! But, it needs a few things. I can't seem to find a model number and the numbers I have found don't seem to lead me to parts. Hopefully someone can help me determine which model I have and where I can get parts. Thanks!

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Post# 1071243 , Reply# 39   5/7/2020 at 19:48 (1,674 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Early 60s Hotpoint wall Oven

combo52's profile picture

The 10RJ..... # is the model #, about the only parts still available would be the light bulb and maybe the heating elements if you are lucky.

 

We have some good used parts for ovens like this, What do you need ?

 

John L.


Post# 1071347 , Reply# 40   5/8/2020 at 12:13 (1,673 days old) by tannerS (CANTON)        
Well..

I need a lightbulb, a cover or screen over that lightbulb if there's supposed to be one. The button to push that turns the lightbulb on. The weather stripping that goes around the door to create the seal when you shut it. A whole bunch of things seem to be missing from it.

Post# 1073027 , Reply# 41   5/17/2020 at 18:25 (1,664 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Well ..........

No light bulb cover came in this unit and "weather stripping" only included a piece across the top of the door and a strip across the bottom, not all around the door. You'll need a second parts oven as no parts are available except after market thermostats (I recommend the Robert Shaw brand) and the plug in burners. These two items are available on Ebay.

Post# 1111255 , Reply# 42   3/13/2021 at 15:58 (1,364 days old) by SMK (Milwaukee)        
Hotpoint Customline Catalina Wall Oven Brown

Remodeling and have this oven. We are wondering how to connect it to anyone who wants/needs it before it ends up in a dumpster. In the Milwaukee area.

Post# 1111258 , Reply# 43   3/13/2021 at 16:32 (1,364 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Post your listing in the Shopper's Square forum (purple). It would be helpful if you have a picture and a price.

Post# 1111380 , Reply# 44   3/14/2021 at 17:16 (1,363 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)        

Great oven!!!!! But..... rare beef 140F? Poultry 190F? {coughing out dust}

 

Chuck


Post# 1111445 , Reply# 45   3/15/2021 at 03:15 (1,363 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Overdone !!!!!

Poultry that is. Different standards back then. I always cook my poultry to 165 F.

Post# 1171847 , Reply# 46   2/10/2023 at 21:08 (665 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1950s custom line wall oven door hinge

I have a Custom line wall oven 10RJ..the left door hinge is broken/loose. The oven was put in about 1956.
Does anyone have any idea about where and how to look for another one.
Is it possible to fix it, it is loose on/in the oven side, not on/in the door side, has anyone repaired a hinge mechanism ? I really love this oven and plan to keep it.


Post# 1171902 , Reply# 47   2/11/2023 at 10:25 (664 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
This repair will be a little involved.....

The unit will have to be removed from the wall. If a hinge replacement is in order, a parts oven will be needed. It's hard just to find the hinges alone on EBay, etc. The front door skin will have to come off as will the "can" or the internal compartment of the oven itself. I'm posting some diagram pictures so you get an idea of what you will be looking at and what the procedure is like.

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Post# 1171981 , Reply# 48   2/11/2023 at 20:39 (664 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1950s Custom line wall oven broken door hinge

I am very grateful to you for posting the diagram pictures of the inner workings of the door/hinge on the oven. It helped a great deal to study these. The lever is secure on the door side, the end in the oven is loose, it easily moves up and down. that end is not connected to anything it seems. From what I am understanding from the picture is that the end of the lever has a cable which comes down around a wheel of some sort or round spacer and connects to a spring with a long end that is secured in the back of the oven. The problem probably is with the cable/wheel/spring and/or their connections, the lever is fine. Do you think that is a fair assumption ?
So there are a few parts involved, complex is right !!
The thermostat needs to be replaced so the oven is going to have to be pulled out for that. Sande


Post# 1171988 , Reply# 49   2/11/2023 at 21:52 (664 days old) by Customline (pennsylvania)        
Glad to help out

The door cable is probably worn on this unit. Replacement thermostats are easy to be had for this unit. I recommend the Robert Shaw thermostat.

Post# 1172015 , Reply# 50   2/12/2023 at 08:30 (663 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Thermostat and selector switch part numbers.....

The thermostat replacement I used is the Robert Shaw 5455 series. The selector switch replacement is a GE WB22X5131. I profiled the selector switch replacement in a previous thread. I'm including a list of GE replacement parts numbers for thermostats. Just look for the model number of your unit on this list.

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Post# 1172027 , Reply# 51   2/12/2023 at 11:20 (663 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Broken door hinge?

combo52's profile picture
Hi, do you think the door hinges broken or does the door open and close fine but just seems very heavy and maybe doesn’t close is tightly?

I might have some door hinge parts available. If you can take it apart and find a broken Part and post a picture of it.

The most likely thing to break on this hinge and counterbalance system is the cable or possibly the door, spring itself and investigation will be necessary to see what you really need.

John.


Post# 1172061 , Reply# 52   2/12/2023 at 15:40 (663 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 Custom Line broken door hinge

Thank you for all of most helpful feedback and information. I tried to attach a picture but they are always sideways(I am working on that too.) By enlarging the diagram and your information the components became clear. The problem must be with the cable/spring and/or the little round part the cable runs under. Do either of you know what the ends of the cable look like? it is a fish hook or a loop? Asking because when the oven is pulled out I'd prefer it to be only 1 time and want to have the most likely part(s) available. I will need to look for the part without a number. I can take a guess on the spring. Finding a technician who had experience and willingness to do this took a long time.
The oven was bought 11/1956-$300.,no model # on the receipt. It was repaired in 1994 by GE technician, with one of the repairs being the thermostat. The thermostat model #WB21X5212, he ids the oven model as 10RJG (the G could be a 6). With that info- found a "new" one in a GE box with that #on the box. Have not recieved it yet, but if it does not work out I will get a Robert Shaw. The oven door is a little over 19 inches wide and approx 20inches long. I am hoping once restored it will have a long future of birthday Cakes. I have stopped using the oven only recently when the thermostat (off about 175*) went on strike. Even with the left door hinge broken the door would only be slightly ajar on the left top. It is a really fine piece of history.
Thank you both for your most valuable help and efforts towards this endeavor. I am hopeful!


CLICK HERE TO GO TO armeniangirl's LINK


Post# 1172099 , Reply# 53   2/13/2023 at 07:02 (662 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line

Here is the oven. Got the picture to stand up !

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Post# 1184959 , Reply# 54   7/15/2023 at 14:47 (510 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Thank you Customline and Combo52 for your information and help with my repair. The thermostat has been replaced and is working great. The problem with the top oven door is that the left hand spring is broken. I got another but it is not the right size. We connected it to the back of the oven wall- now the door is no longer loose but it does not open flat and stays up several inches. It is impossible to get a big pan in the oven. The left hinge may need to be replaced also. I think the right hand spring was keeping the door up on its own, because the door was heavy on the left side and would just fall down when opened. Would either of you know the size of the spring that is needed. One end of the original spring is broken it fell down the oven shaft opening and could not be found. I have attached a picture of the spring and also the arm into the door.
From a 1994 repair slip the spring part may be WB9X5009.
Thanks again. Sande


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Post# 1185097 , Reply# 55   7/17/2023 at 09:29 (508 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Sande.....

I'm going through my spare door parts and I think I might have a spare spring. I'll also provide pictures of the door and hinge assembly.

Post# 1185105 , Reply# 56   7/17/2023 at 11:31 (508 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
The door parts and the diagram......

These are the door parts laid out in order of operation. Refer to the diagram in the next photo as to how they are mounted. I doubt if the anything happened to the hinge itself as it is a thick piece of steel. Notice where the spring is mounted towards the back of the unit. The spring measures approx. 6 inches. Your cable might have snapped inside the unit.

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Post# 1185176 , Reply# 57   7/18/2023 at 10:25 (507 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Kevin, Your information and pictures are a treasure for me, thank you so much.
I do not have the original cable either-perhaps it went down the shaft with the broken end of the spring. I can see from your spring picture that the spring I had gotten and put in had a much longer fixed end hook. Most likely the reason the door is not opening properly.
I would agree with you that the hinge is probably fine and the cable snapped with the hook end still in it. I do have another cable that came with the used spring that is too long. It also has 2 hooks. I have include a pic of that. Your part looks like exactly what is needed. The size makes sense.
In the diagram, the square box that the end of the spring goes to, is that just a set of holes in the wall of the oven box or is it a plate?
I realize how precious a functioning used part is to have when having a restored stove. Would you be able to help me find a spring/cable part as you pictured ? I am assuming you do not want to sell any parts that you have.
Thank you again, Sande


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Post# 1185246 , Reply# 58   7/19/2023 at 10:06 (506 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
The outer wall of the oven......

Has a small plate with holes and that is where the spring will attach. I would suggest E bay to search because that is where I found my second parts oven.

Post# 1185253 , Reply# 59   7/19/2023 at 12:26 (506 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
custom line oven door spring.

Thank you for your help. I will check ebay since now I have an idea of the size. I will keep you updated on my process of "updating the dated"!

Post# 1185255 , Reply# 60   7/19/2023 at 12:37 (506 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
You could consider.....

fashioning your own door spring. Save the pivot end or "floating end" of your original spring and attach it to a new 6 inch spring. Your two wire cables are still OK right ?

Post# 1185326 , Reply# 61   7/20/2023 at 08:47 (505 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Morning,
Thank you for your direction. (This may sound like a silly question but most of my repair projects involve duct tape and rubber bands so this repair is a stretch for me.) When you suggest to attach the end of the original spring to a "new" spring do you mean new as in made in the last few years and gotten in a hardware store or "new" as in newly bought off ebay? I thought springs have differing tension capacities.
Before I read your last post I did buy a spring from ebay, same/or almost the same size.
My old part number was WB9X5009. The ebay spring part is #WB9X5016. The part # was only 7 numbers different and cost reasonable so I am hopeful it will work. My cables do look ok. I will post how this works out. The GE parts people could not tell me what the difference in numbers might indicate.
Thank you again.


Post# 1185391 , Reply# 62   7/21/2023 at 08:33 (504 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
As in "custom" door spring.......

The original spring has a pivot end, there is a hook that "floats" inside the spring itself. This will be the unbroken hook on your original spring. You might be able to get away with this feature because according to the diagram the spring just sits in a vertical position, it doesn't encounter a bend. I would go to a hardware store and springs are usually found in the screen door section. You will have to buy a couple of 6 inch springs and see which works best for the operation of the oven door. Amazon offers an assortment too including trampoline springs.

Post# 1185413 , Reply# 63   7/21/2023 at 14:17 (504 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Sande......

There is a listing on Ebay for two '56 Hotpoint wall ovens. This is a simple and easy way to aquire all of the parts you will need to keep your daily driver Hotpoint in top shape.

Post# 1185757 , Reply# 64   7/24/2023 at 15:37 (501 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Kevin-Thank you so much for your help. I have printed all of the pictures and diagrams for when the gentleman who is helping with the repair comes. He travels over an hour to get here so I want to be extra prepared. Your information about the spring is great, I am going buy a couple from the hardware store to have on hand, putting my old hook inside. I did get a spring from ebay, it looks and measures right but I want to have backup. I did see the ovens on ebay, I am hopeful the spring is all I will need-all else is working.
With your information and advice and the springs I will have, I am hopeful we can get the oven door to open completely down.
It will be a while before he can come out this way. I will post our Success.(thinking positively!!)



Post# 1191383 , Reply# 65   10/6/2023 at 15:21 (427 days old) by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring .

We were able to fashion the right size spring from a hardware store one. The door opens almost flat. It is fine enough to get a large pan slid in. But the left side door arm (cam lever)/hinge support must be binding. It creaks when the door is pulled down. It is not a smooth glide opening as the right side and the cam lever arm feels rough underneath. The technician suggests that a new cam lever be machined. In looking at the diagram I would think it is something to do with the little wheel on the support. I will look for a left cam arm hinge support setup. I do not want to buy a used parts oven, though a good suggestion, for this is the only part that is needed. Would anyone happen to have access to this part? (the support and or cam lever) ?
Thank you for your help, suggestions, diagrams and support. We could not have gotten this far without them.
Sande


Post# 1191408 , Reply# 66   10/6/2023 at 19:48 (427 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)        
Awesome !!!

This is great news. Glad to be of help.

Post# 1216786 , Reply# 67   10/16/2024 at 07:42 by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring/ hinge

The new spring I put in to replace the original has now seized and the door will only open, again, at a 40* angle. Would anyone be able to help me find the correct sized spring and hinge for the left side of this oven? Customline had kindly sent me a picture of the needed part but we have not been able to duplicate it. The original spring had broken. I have been working with a repair person who has no ideas other than to take the door apart, and have the pieces remade by a machine shop. I think it is just the spring, the door feels too tight to open. He says he thinks the hinge also needs replacement.
Thank you. armeniangirl


Post# 1216840 , Reply# 68   10/17/2024 at 06:18 by customline (pennsylvania)        
This is what you have to do.....

You have to get a parts oven, there is no two ways around it. Then you have to see what's binding up your door. That entails taking the oven apart. Even when you fix this problem other problems arise. Next it will be a thermostat, then a control switch. You have to replace all of these, including the wiring. Exactly how it's outlined in this thread.

Post# 1218014 , Reply# 69   11/6/2024 at 06:25 by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven

Yes Customline, I understand and agree now that a parts oven must be found.
I will look now.
Thank you for your patient help.
If you happen to see one would you please let me know.


Post# 1218081 , Reply# 70   11/7/2024 at 03:12 by customline (pennsylvania)        
Parts oven search.....

I will keep you posted.

Post# 1218219 , Reply# 71   11/9/2024 at 07:08 by armeniangirl (Williamstown)        
1956 custom line wall oven door spring/hinge

Thank you Customline.
I am appreciative of your expertise and help as always.


Post# 1218880 , Reply# 72   11/19/2024 at 21:52 by nickp192 (New York)        
10RJ HELP!!! Short after installing new themostat?

Please help!! I have a 1956(ish) Hotpoint 10RJ electric double wall ovens in yellow in my 1890's farmhouse. I am a first time homeowner, moderate DIY'er and somewhat handy but not an electrical expert nor am I an appliance enthusiast- but I am interested and somewhat invested in keeping these running- they're excellent to cook with, my wife loves them and above all, they would be a huge pain to replace.

Shortly after moving in, the upper switch was broken which led me down the rabbithole of learning more- I disassembled the upper control panel, and after a lot of research, found a switch, installed and got it working again. Great! I replaced both heating elements as well over the last few years as they failed. So far so good and honestly, I love that I can actually repair this thing.

About a month ago, the thermostat probe in the upper oven broke - candidly I wasn't aware it was such an important part - I thought it was the roastminder probe (which i didn't care about), it came loose, i didn't fix it, and it got tangled in a rack and ripped out of the wall of the oven somehow. Only then did I realize what it was.

I researched online, found the part number and a replacement on ebay (actually two of them)- after several fits and starts and mistakes, I pulled the oven partially out of the wall, threaded the probe through the wall of the oven, and installed the new thermostat. Based on what I learned from my mistakes, I flipped the breaker on while everything was still somewhat open and tested the oven and it worked perfectly! The upper oven fired right up, and after about 3 minutes shut off- i was thrilled!

I reassembled the upper control panel and then as I was doing so I thought the wires looked VERY crammed in and the thermostat wire was kinda pushed in the back while the thermostat wire on the bottom oven was sort of tucked underneath, so I removed the adjacent switch, cleared and re-routed some of the wires so they would have more room and not be squeezed in, and patched everything back up. I put a screw in the control panel to hold it all together and do another test before reassembling and... my breaker won't flip on. I went back and rerouted a few cables, tightened a few connections, and (after some youtube/googling) tested a few weary looking cables with my multimeter- I didn't test every single wire but even the old worn wires are reading fine.

I'm at my wit's end- it's brutal to have this happen after multiple parts and mistakes and finally testing and working perfectly only to have caused some issue during the final assembly. My two hypotheses are that I tugged some wire loose somewhere while rearranging the wires/switches or that the new thermostat is bad somehow. Any advice on tracing down this short?

I'm afraid the answer is that I need to fully remove and basically tear down these ovens which I'm not sure I have the skills, time, or desire to do.



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Post# 1218964 , Reply# 73   11/21/2024 at 03:02 by customline (pennsylvania)        
Wiring schematic.....

Did you put everything back together following the original wiring schematic ? It's on the back of your '60's Hotpoint oven. The black handles and door glass design is indicative of an early to mid '60's unit.

Post# 1219834 , Reply# 74   12/3/2024 at 22:07 by nickp192 (New York)        
Followed it

Hi Customline- thanks for the response! I did indeed check everything - I tagged every cable when removing it from the switches, and although my wiring schematic is stained and fragile, I used it to check several wires with the multimeter.

Further, I believe that the fact that it fired up and operated correctly (albeit briefly) tells me the wires are correctly attached to the switches/thermostat. Any other ideas?


Post# 1219860 , Reply# 75   12/4/2024 at 07:21 by nickp192 (New York)        
recommendation for repair?

do you happen to know anyone in the northeast who would be able to diagnose and potentially repair this? I see you're in PA. I'm in upstate NY (Catskills)- I would be willing to pay for someone to travel to me to diagnose and fix this or tell me what to do.


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