Thread Number: 37633
Need manual for Maytag HA806... |
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Post# 559788 , Reply# 2   11/27/2011 at 20:43 (4,525 days old) by LintTrap ()   |   | |
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Hmmm... my link didn't go to the parts list, but to find it, go to the Maytag website and search a806 in the "manuals and literature". |
Post# 559819 , Reply# 3   11/27/2011 at 23:43 (4,524 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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You will likely be able to fix it, depending on how bad the rust is and how determined you are. That "pipe" stub that the air dome attaches to was welded on to the outer tub during manufacture. There are products out there that can seal up that sort of thing but I don't personally have experience with them. Robert (our webmaster) and number of others have experience with this sort of repair.
A parts list will not do you any good other than if you need to replace the air dome itself (part #2-12942). You will need to "improvise" a fix for this problem with various silicone, epoxy or other "miracle" products. |
Post# 559937 , Reply# 5   11/28/2011 at 13:44 (4,524 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Welcome to AW.org
Stick with the same thread, since you mentioned the exact problem and rust spot right in the first thread and the model number is listed in the title.
Some of the experienced pros here will advise the epoxy/sealant/goop to use. I'll keep watching this thread so I can learn.
Also, the H in HA806 refers to the color of the washer, you'll have best luck researching using only the A806.
Again, welcome to the website, and pictures can help for sure. Mark |
Post# 559977 , Reply# 7   11/28/2011 at 16:12 (4,524 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 560012 , Reply# 9   11/28/2011 at 19:42 (4,524 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 560144 , Reply# 10   11/29/2011 at 10:20 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560145 , Reply# 11   11/29/2011 at 10:22 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560146 , Reply# 12   11/29/2011 at 10:23 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560147 , Reply# 13   11/29/2011 at 10:23 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560148 , Reply# 14   11/29/2011 at 10:24 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560149 , Reply# 15   11/29/2011 at 10:25 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560151 , Reply# 16   11/29/2011 at 10:26 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560152 , Reply# 17   11/29/2011 at 10:27 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560153 , Reply# 18   11/29/2011 at 10:28 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560154 , Reply# 19   11/29/2011 at 10:29 (4,523 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 560196 , Reply# 21   11/29/2011 at 14:05 (4,523 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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If you press around the edges of the oulet-stub nearest the tub, is it solid or beginning to crumble? It appears that you have enough of the stub left to clean up, stop the present rust and clamp on a new air dome hose to. This hose does not move much at all, with the tub while spinning and the stresses are really on the upper parts of the hose. Since it's located in a corner of the machine cabinet, it is very unlikely that it will ever get knocked around in an off-balance load scenario. I would clean the outlet with a small brush to remove any loose rust, coat it with a good rust-inhibitor paint such as POR-15 and then when that's cured, replace the air dome hose with a new one and some RTV Ultra-Blue silicone to seal it and give a little extra holding power. Spread the silicone around the stud before slipping the hose on and then clamp - not over-tight, just enough to hold it firmly in place.
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Post# 560234 , Reply# 23   11/29/2011 at 16:12 (4,523 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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It is solid. There is about 1/4" of uncorroded stub left. If we use the original hose clamp (and not wide kind with a screw), it might hang on.
That is exactly what I would do, except I would put a bead of Permatex Ultra-Blue silicone (found at Ace Hardware) around the uncorroded section of the stub and tighten the clamp only with a small amount of pressure. Let the silicone dry for 24 hours before testing. |