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Thread Number: 37694
1975 A806 Won't Agitate |
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| Post# 560768 12/2/2011 at 05:30 (4,522 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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As title states, my 1975 A806 will not agitate. Pulley turns freely clockwise and tub spins when turned counterclockwise. I'm hoping that the problem is not the transmission. Any thoughts? | ||
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| Post# 560774 , Reply# 1 12/2/2011 at 06:09 (4,522 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
I suppose your drive lug underneath the rubber cap could have come loose, but that doesn't usually happen. If it has it will have to be properly reset. Other than that the only other thing I can think of is that the pinion gear on top of the drive shaft inside of the transmission has stripped or broke, which would mean a complete tear down of the machine and a trans. rebuild, which is a big job.
I can't think of any thing else that would cause the pulley to spin freely in the agitation direction. | ||
| Post# 560788 , Reply# 3 12/2/2011 at 07:39 (4,522 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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They say you're supposed to stuff strips of wadded cotton in the agitator vents at the bottom of the column and pour boiling water in it. I did it a different way.
I took a piece of simi-rigid clear plastic aquarium tubing and attached a piece of soft tubing on the end of it, filled the tub a third way with very hot water, put the tubing under the agitator toward the drive shaft as to get to the air bubble under the agitator, sucked on the end of the hose to get the air bubble out, put in a lot of detergent and phosphate, agitated for several minutes and then put on rubber gloves, reached under the agitator, pulled up and rocked a bit and it popped off. | ||
| Post# 560902 , Reply# 5 12/3/2011 at 02:35 (4,521 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Go to the forum archives and look at thread number 28069 and number 22830 and scroll down to the post titled "First Things First". Also check thread number 25520. And if you do decide to totally rebuild the transmission, don't try and take out the agitator shaft. It's almost impossible to get that keeper pin out out of the pinion gear. Just clean it really good with kerosene, getting plenty in that orifice hole to rinse it out.
I submerged all of my trans parts in kerosene in a deep plastic tub. Submerge the top plate of the trans in the kerosene, turn the agitator drive shaft while submerged, then lift it out and let the orifice drain and repeat over and over. Use a good brush that doesn't shed to clean the parts and use neoprene gloves for your hands. Scrape off all the old trans gasket with a putty knife. I found the parts I needed to be: Stem seal and boot kit(if your Stem seal has been on for 35 years you might have to cut it off with a Cut-Off Wheel Kit w/ mandrel and arbors. This can be tricky. Don't cut into your transmission neck or hit your porcelain wash basket), Agitator drive shaft seal, Transmission gasket, Upper O-ring, Lower O-ring, probably a new nylon Pinion Gear, Splined washer, Lug washer, Spring/Glide kit for motor carriage, Poly-Lube (I was lucky enough to find a 3 oz jar of Maycor Poly-Lube Silicone Grease at Direct Maytag), and Transmission Gear Oil. If you want to use Maytag Transmission Oil and can find it, go ahead. I used Sta-Lube Multi-Purpose Hypoid SAE 85W90 Gear Oil API/GL-4 from NAPA Auto Parts. You need to use a GL-4 gear oil or lower for use on bronze phosphor parts. The Splined washer is this type of metal and a GL-5 oil might eat it up. NAPA was the only place I could find this type of gear oil. It was like $35.00, but there's enough to do two transmissions, I believe. They also have NAPA Premium Performance Multi-Purpose Wheel Bearing and Chassis Grease for around $3.50 a tub. It's a light creamy honey brown color. The same type of grease FSP is putting in their rubber gasket parts, I believe. I like it much better than that blue grease. You may also need some rubber injector parts. I soak rubber parts in a covered pot in a gallon of generic Armor All from NAPA in a 150-200 degree oven over night and it brings them right back to life if they're not to far gone. The tub cover gasket is usually reusable but has to be cleaned thoroughly and sometimes heated slightly to remove creases or impressions. The cooking in Armor All does this too. Ace Hardware is your friend. I found the O-rings there for around $1.50 a piece. Much better than the $17.00 Direct Maytag wanted for them. Don't know the size yet. It will be in my next Thread. You will need a pick set to remove the O-ring from the transmission tube. You can find a nice Craftsman set at Sears or Ace. This is no small job and can take up to several months, depending on how hard you work and if you have an indoor work shop. A specialized tool you will need will be a spanner wrench. A brake package tool is nice too, but you can get by without it. I was lucky. I found a generic spanner wrench for $10.00 and a Maytag brake package tool for $10.00. It's too bad you needed this information now. I'll be posting the Thread of my rebuild in the next few weeks. It will have the details you need with pictures and hopefully a video. A membership to AW.org will get you more attention. It's a small price to pay. This post was last edited 12/03/2011 at 04:58 | ||
| Post# 560999 , Reply# 6 12/3/2011 at 14:46 (4,521 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Thank you very much for all the information. I have most of these tools already and this shouldn't be too big of a task. You've been so helpful I might just get an AW membership! | ||
| Post# 561029 , Reply# 7 12/3/2011 at 19:00 (4,520 days old) by MaytagA710 () | ||
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Hey Brian I cannot wait to see the rebuild photos! I am going to overhaul the transmission in the 712 over the summer next year. | ||
Post# 561995 , Reply# 9 12/8/2011 at 18:14 (4,515 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT BASKET LOCK RING | ||
| Post# 562057 , Reply# 11 12/9/2011 at 00:40 (4,515 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Stem Mount
You'll probably have to cut it off too. I used a Forney Cut-Off Wheel Kit, 3" diameter w/mandrel and arbors. Use a 3/8" variable speed reversible drill, tight fitting gloves and eye protection. Can't remember which direction I had the drill turn. I think it was up away from the basket in case the wheel jumped it wouldn't nick the porcelain tub. This is a tricky procedure as you have to cut through the old stem mount but not the trans. neck or agitator shaft. As you can see by my pic I almost cut too far. Keep a firm hold on the drill to keep it under control. I cut into the threaded part of the neck, but I stopped in time as not to cut the drive shaft. If I had cut in to the drive shaft it would have been ruined.I did better on the other side. Good luck.
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| Post# 562063 , Reply# 12 12/9/2011 at 02:20 (4,515 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Time to break out the angle grinder again! Thank you very much you have all been very helpful! | ||
| Post# 562065 , Reply# 13 12/9/2011 at 02:48 (4,515 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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If the agitator shaft came out, the pinion gear must have broke or the keeper pin in the gear sheared off. There will be loose parts in the transmission. Don't put that shaft back in the neck until everything has been cleaned and lubricated. Even then, I've been told, that the machine may be very noisy during agitation if the trans. neck bushings are worn. But who knows you may get lucky. If there were any burrs on the bottom of the a. drive shaft or rough pieces of the keeper pin sticking out, you may have scored the inside of the trans. neck bushings when the shaft pulled out of the trans.
The problem will be getting the remainder of that keeper pin out of the agitator drive shaft with out doing any damage. You have to hold the the agitator shaft still, keep it supported and drive that pin out without doing any damage to the shaft. I tried it for awhile and finally gave up. And I had the benefit of still having the pinion on the end of the shaft for a guide. You have to hold that shaft in a padded vice and the part has to be supported from the underneath side. You'll have to provide a hole for that piece of the keeper pin to drop into when it's pushed out. You'll need a 1/4 inch punch to fit that hole perfectly. Another possibility would be to very carefully drill out the pin with a bit that is almost the size of the pin, but if you go off center and drill into that shaft it's ruined. A padded vice and a drill press would probably be your best bet to drill the the pin out. Once you get the old pin out you have the problem of getting the gear back on the shaft by driving the new pin back through the gear and shaft to the right depth. There's a spring washer between the pinion and the bottom of the trans. plate. It should still be inside the trans. It's going to push between the trans. plate and the gear while you put the gear on, line up the holes in the gear and the shaft while simultaneously trying to drive the pin through. That will be nearly impossible unless you have all the exact parts, equipment and talent. The best bet would be a gear form with a hole for the pin and a hydraulic press. Doubt you'll have that. Even if you get it back together there's no guarantee those bushings aren't worn and you'll have a noisy machine. It may not have been noisy before it broke but it may be by the time you're finished fiddling with it. You could try and take it to a machine shop but they might not be very happy with you by the time it's done and you might not be happy with the price. I saw the pinion on line a couple of nights ago and I know the pin is still available. I bought one this summer from Direct Maytag. The label on the bag says Part 210183. Desc. Groov-Pin-. You might be better off with a donor transmission or donor transmission top with drive shaft and pinion gear in place. Sorry I don't have any better news. | ||
| Post# 562276 , Reply# 15 12/9/2011 at 23:25 (4,514 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Transmission is out and disassembled. Buying Brake Clean in the morning to clean it and disassemble with my snap-ring pliers. Ordering all the rebuild parts tonight and contacting my media-blasting friends to see if they can do a part as big as the base plate. | ||
| Post# 563466 , Reply# 17 12/15/2011 at 22:08 (4,508 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Everything is disassembled. Cleaning the baseplate now for painting tomorrow. The rest of the transmission rebuild parts come tomorrow or Saturday. Does anyone want any pictures of the transmission rebuild or the rebuild in general? | ||
| Post# 563469 , Reply# 18 12/15/2011 at 22:33 (4,508 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 563473 , Reply# 19 12/15/2011 at 23:04 (4,508 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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I am worried about the agitator shaft. The upper part of the shaft where it rests on the bearing on the top half of the transmission seems to be impregnated with oil, similar to the tub bearing. I'm not 100% sure either way. | ||
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Post# 563518 , Reply# 20 12/16/2011 at 07:53 (4,508 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT AGITATOR SHAFT The agitator shaft is just plated steel, it is not like the tub bearings that are bronze and oil impregnated. If the shaft is badly worn [ and it probably is ] you really need a new one and new bearings in the transmission cover. When this would happen to MT washers we never fixed this part as MT sold the complete trans cover with the shaft and bearings installed, so we would just install a new cover, oil and gasket and you were good to go for another 20 years. Nowadays when I run into this problem we just use a cover assembly that is in good condition or even a complete used transmission . Other than finding good used parts you will have to have the shaft turned down and have over sized bearings made and installed. The bad thing is the shaft has lost its corrosion resistant plating so if any moisture ever gets in it wouldn't last long.
If I were rebuilding this machine for everyday use I would update it to the Orbital Transmission and use the newer Load Sensor agitator, these parts are still avilalible. This change was the best thing MT ever did to the helical drive washers, it allows you to wash larger loads and greatly reduces the clothing ware and possible damage that the original Powerfin agitator can cause if the machine is not used very carefully. | ||
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Post# 563529 , Reply# 21 12/16/2011 at 09:36 (4,508 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR) |
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load sensor agitator | ||
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Post# 563543 , Reply# 22 12/16/2011 at 10:42 (4,508 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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LOAD SENSOR AGITATOR | ||
| Post# 564399 , Reply# 23 12/20/2011 at 21:47 (4,503 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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I recieved most of the parts I was waiting on today. Trying to the O-Ring into the bottom half of the transmission case. I've seen the manual on thread number 22830 and I just cant seem to get it fully seated. Any tips? | ||
| Post# 564450 , Reply# 24 12/21/2011 at 06:10 (4,503 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Got it all back together and it is quieter than it ever was! There is a small water leak from the upper tub seal that I need to deal with by readjusting the gasket... After that she should be all good to go! | ||
| Post# 564607 , Reply# 27 12/22/2011 at 06:00 (4,502 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Leak
If water is coming out of the slots in the tub bearing, suspect a boot seal leak. If water is coming out underneath the bearing sleeve and straight down on the transmission cover, suspect a center shaft seal leak or triple lip seal leak on top of the stem mount. They're not as good as the old kind. I've heard that if the agitator shaft is very worn or not smooth where the lip seal rides on the agitator shaft that a leak can happen there. Look a MaytagA710's first picture. See where the groove is in the agitator shaft where the shaft seal used to ride?
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| Post# 564632 , Reply# 29 12/22/2011 at 10:33 (4,502 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Uploading some pictures as requested: The washer midway through teardown. Yes, it was very dirty... 
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| Post# 564633 , Reply# 30 12/22/2011 at 10:34 (4,502 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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After replacing parts and painting almost everything underneath to prevent any further rusting. 
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| Post# 564635 , Reply# 32 12/22/2011 at 10:39 (4,502 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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A closer look of the rebuilt and painted transmission. It cleaned up very nicely! I also bought a new support spring to replace one that was very rusted (You can see it in the foreground of this picture) 
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| Post# 564636 , Reply# 33 12/22/2011 at 10:41 (4,502 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Last picture for the moment, the matching washer and dryer that has been used daily for the past 36 years! (They are older than I am!) We have had them for so long we even painted the laundry room in a matching color :) 
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| Post# 564759 , Reply# 34 12/23/2011 at 00:50 (4,501 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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No, you don't remove part of the stem mount seal. You put the old style agitator shaft seal on the shaft(while the stop ring is off)and put the new stem mount over it. Then tighten.
Did you make sure the a. shaft was polished with emery cloth first, then greased? Did you check my post to MaytagA710 a few days ago? | ||
| Post# 564762 , Reply# 35 12/23/2011 at 01:24 (4,501 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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I don't know how to find your post to MaytagA710... So would ordering the older style shaft seal and installing it fix my problem? | ||
| Post# 564798 , Reply# 36 12/23/2011 at 10:21 (4,501 days old) by MaytagA710 () | ||
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Hey HOYS here is the thread/advice he told me about earlier, very helpful! CLICK HERE TO GO TO MaytagA710's LINK | ||
| Post# 565128 , Reply# 37 12/24/2011 at 23:37 (4,499 days old) by HOYS (Dayton) | ||
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Very helpful link! My agitator shaft was badly worn like that too. I'll be buying the old style seal and some O-Rings to do this fix! Thank you very much! | ||
| Post# 566179 , Reply# 38 12/31/2011 at 18:51 (4,492 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River) | ||
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