Thread Number: 38473
Reseting hydrowave
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Post# 570585   1/22/2012 at 22:09 (4,449 days old) by supersurgilator (Indiana)        

Has anybody seen this before? Seriously, lifting the lid 6 times?

CLICK HERE TO GO TO supersurgilator's LINK





Post# 570594 , Reply# 1   1/22/2012 at 22:27 (4,449 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
I've had to do this a couple times myself. If the machine goes off balance, the motor usually overloads and shuts down. You have to reset the motor protector switch which is done by opening and closing the lid 6 times.

Post# 570677 , Reply# 2   1/23/2012 at 09:08 (4,448 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

It's probably one of GE's worst machines.

Post# 570792 , Reply# 3   1/23/2012 at 18:18 (4,448 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
GE Hydrowave: Worst GE?

It is too bad if that is the case especially since their old Filter Flo (pre '96) washers were well built machines that usually gave long service. What are the problem areas for the Hydrowave design?

Post# 570794 , Reply# 4   1/23/2012 at 18:52 (4,448 days old) by washmeup (scottsdale)        
Please!!

washmeup's profile picture
This is one of the most dumb things I have ever heard of?

Post# 570800 , Reply# 5   1/23/2012 at 19:18 (4,448 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
Simple enough to do...but I wonder how many owners (who didn't read the manual thoroughly) called a serviceman who charged $80 to lift the lid six times?

Post# 570810 , Reply# 6   1/23/2012 at 20:28 (4,448 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        
dugh

I have this machine at my cleaners and i pulled the motor out because the trouble code sade to REPLACE MOTOR didnt want to but i will put it back and will try this will let everyone know simple machine easy to work on but too many seckrets spins like HELL clothes cone out with dry spots

Post# 570871 , Reply# 7   1/24/2012 at 01:34 (4,447 days old) by qualin (Canada)        

I'll give credit to GE for this design.

Mainly because they've eliminated the transmission and used a high voltage DC dual direction servo motor instead. They've simplified the mechnics of this machine, relying more on computers and electronics to do the work.

I can tell just by the sounds it makes on spin that it is a servo motor.

The big problem I've heard about these machines is the infamous mode selector.

The link I'm posting is a very common problem with these machines.

The other problem is they tend to do something like this:




(Skip ahead to 2:13 for the real action)

Now I think I know what two washing machines having intercourse sounds like.... I couldn't stop laughing for five minutes when I first watched this video...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO qualin's LINK


Post# 570877 , Reply# 8   1/24/2012 at 02:56 (4,447 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

the "flip the lid" 6 times to reset the mechanism?How many folks not know that and ----curb the machine.think I will stay away from these.Too much electronics-give me a transmission anyday!And yes-with these newer design machines-READ the BOOK!

Post# 570882 , Reply# 9   1/24/2012 at 03:20 (4,447 days old) by qualin (Canada)        
To Tolivac

Consider the alternative.

- Pull the machine out from the wall to get at the rear
- Take the rear cover off the machine
- Press in the reset switch on the motor. (If it had one)
- Put the rear cover back on the machine
- Push the machine back against the wall

I'd rather lift the lid a few times than do that.

I liked early 60's Maytag's approach to just putting the motor reset button right on the console. That's so much more intuitive.


Post# 570891 , Reply# 10   1/24/2012 at 06:16 (4,447 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I have never had to pull any machine from the wall to reset it-never had one trip out on me.Yes,the motor circuit breaker reset is best mounted on the console.Wish this was standard with all brands.In my area-electronics get killed by the frequent lightening storms here.Would be replacing boards all of the time-don't need that.the transmissions just WORK.-and can do that for decades in some cases.The life of electronics can't be predicted.

Post# 570895 , Reply# 11   1/24/2012 at 06:24 (4,447 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I don't know of a single washer that had the reset button on the motor. I'm not saying there were not any, I just don't know of any. My Duomatic had the overload reset button just inside the lower access panel, but that was still on the front of the machine and just tilted down. Most thermal overloads reset themselves when the motor cooled down. Early Frigidaires had the "Push to Reset" button below the console. I have never seen a Maytag with a reset button on the control panel. Are you referring to the black and red light switches or the unbalance switch that pulls the timer knob into the "off" position?

Post# 570902 , Reply# 12   1/24/2012 at 07:07 (4,447 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Reset Procedure

mrb627's profile picture
Is that reset procedure in the Owner's Manual? I would be surprised. Most Guides are so uninformative that there isn't much point in printing them to paper.

Malcolm


Post# 570922 , Reply# 13   1/24/2012 at 09:21 (4,447 days old) by KenmoreBD (Mass, usa )        

it's funny you mention not being owners manual, mainly because it's not. That being said the GE Hydro wave is probably the only top loading washer that is worth owning these days, especially if you get the model that allows you to choose the water levels. The GE hydro waves and now the new Whirlpool belt drives maybe the last viable top loaders in America. That being said I'm not convinced that the GE or the new whirlpools will have long lives in terms of reliability. I can safely experience that at the very least the GE Hydro wave is a nice looking quiet and effective washing machine but I would not expected it to live more than seven years.

Andrew


Post# 571047 , Reply# 14   1/24/2012 at 20:18 (4,447 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE TL WASHERS SINCE 1996

combo52's profile picture

GE TL washers since they went to the plastic tubs [ and now some have SS tubs ] Have had very poor durability in heavy use situations.  Major weak parts of models with transmissions, transmission, main tub seal, motor clutch, brake assembly [ requires transmission replacement ].

 

Newer models without transmissions, Tub bearing and seals, Electronic motor, and tub assemblies that fly apart and or brake loose from aluminum mountain plate.

 

Both of these washer designs are nearly impossible to do major tear downs to after just a few years due to corrosion of the basket mounting nut and related parts, so they just get junked.

 

The new WP built belt drive washers are a much more durable design and like the DD machines will be much easier to dissemble and repair.


Post# 571097 , Reply# 15   1/25/2012 at 00:29 (4,447 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

As far as "modern" TL washers go--suppose the Speed Queen TL's are the kings here.
Few years ago remember a pathetic plastic "GE" that was curbed outside a trailer park here.It sat on the curb for a month-then was vandalized and pushed into a ditch.Next the roadside flail mower had a shot at the machine-I mean chopped plastic parts to bits.then the machine found its way into a wooded are-the bent up cabinet that is,then finally it disappeared.A good freind of mine had a GE plastic TL-it had the DA style agitator.My buddy started the machine and went to work-He came home from work and discovered a mess-the machines plastic transmission EXPLODED and the floor of the laundy room was soaked-least the floor got washed.He called me to help him-finished mopped and wet vacuuming the floor.Next the poor pathetic GE was loaded in his truck and taken to the Richmond,Va dump.We placed the machine in front of the dumps Cat "pactor" style compactor-dozer-we waited in hopes the operator would return to the compactor and crush the GE washer to flatness.didn't happen-next went to Sears and he picked out a TOL DD KN washer to replace the GE-I suggested it at the time.He was happier with the KN-but told him NOT to let the washer run unattended when not at home.Darn--I so wanted to see the Cat landfill compactor VS the GE pathetic washer!


Post# 571111 , Reply# 16   1/25/2012 at 00:59 (4,446 days old) by qualin (Canada)        
To Tomturbomatic

> Are you referring to the black and red light switches

Oh, I thought that's what those were for, one being motor reset.


Post# 571171 , Reply# 17   1/25/2012 at 10:41 (4,446 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE TL WASHERS SINCE 1996

combo52's profile picture

Great story Rex About the newer GE TL washer. The transmission was all metal however, it and the motor and clutch were about the only metal parts in the machine LOL. The transmissions in the last ten years of the FF GE washers did have a plastic housing however.


Post# 571363 , Reply# 18   1/26/2012 at 00:58 (4,445 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

At the freinds house just remember the wet floor and plastic "Schrapnel" on it Could that have been the pump?-the wet-dry Sears shop vac and broom cleaned the mess up.didn't look in the machine to see just what "exploded"-we didn't want to do an "autopsy" on the dead machine-just get rid of it.hope his DD KN is still working-it was a TOL model-detergent and bleach dispensrs in the top.Its RARE to see curbed machines my way.whatever was in the curbed GE after the roadside mower had a shot-the plastic parts were ground to bits-and the metal parts had "flail" blade marks on them.At how the mowers were used here-no wonder the flail knives had to be replaced often.and the mowers and tractors themselves-and those highway Alamo triple deck mower rigs-with tractor-can START at $50,000 each!Now a contractor mows the roadsides-they use large triple blade folding deck "batwing" mowers.The batwing rotaries are cheaper than flail rigs-less hydraulics.the rotaries have regular PTO drives.And on one flail rig-the deck had worn holes in it-what got caught in that one???A chain or heavy wire?

Post# 571390 , Reply# 19   1/26/2012 at 06:25 (4,445 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I remember stories of those new GEs after their introduction where the tub brake would fail, I think, and the tub would start spinning in agitation, dumping the water out onto the floor because it was not in drain mode. Then the water level switch would reset so it stopped and added more water and began again. Water running down driveways from under garage doors was the first hint many returning owners had that something had gone very wrong. Mom had a ditzy neighbor who had this happen to her, but the machine was not in the garage.

Post# 1082829 , Reply# 20   7/28/2020 at 17:15 (1,339 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
GE torture!

OMG!!!! GE sounds like she's getting tortured!


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