Thread Number: 38582
Maytag A606 Washer - spin dry not working well
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Post# 572379   1/30/2012 at 11:13 (4,462 days old) by echolane ()        

I am the original owner of this old Maytag washer (bought June 1973) and for almost the first time ever it has a problem. The spin dry cycle leaves the clothes almost dripping wet. I can squeeze water out of them. Yesterday I washed a load of towels and even after a second spin cycle the towels were very wet. I've watched and listened to the spin cycle and it seems to be working okay.

FWIW, recently, the spin cycle tends to rock the machine more than usual, and sometimes it will quit spinning on what seems to be only minor unbalanced loads. I didn't think too much of it, but now I wonder if it is/was an early symptom of what might be wrong with the spin cycle.

My husband is a handy guy. What should we look for?

Jan





Post# 572389 , Reply# 1   1/30/2012 at 12:03 (4,462 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Hi Jan,

 

What part of CA are you in?

 

Have the drive belts ever been changed?  This is a good place to start and they can be changed in less then 5 minutes.

 

The next thing to check (if there's little or no improvement) is the motor carriage.    Remove the front panel and check that the motor glides easily back and forth, toward the center of the washer.   It's on rollers or glides and is spring loaded and these keep the belts at the proper tension.   If it's not keeping the belts tight enough, it will agitate and or spin slowly, or take a long time to reach proper speed.

 

I hope this helps!

Kevin


Post# 572399 , Reply# 2   1/30/2012 at 13:11 (4,462 days old) by echolane ()        

I live in southern San Mateo County :).

I don't think the drive belts have ever been changed. It sounds like a place to start. I'll see if I can order them.

And thanks!

Jan


Post# 572404 , Reply# 3   1/30/2012 at 13:25 (4,462 days old) by echolane ()        

Hmmm... I have to retract my statement that the drive belts have never been changed. I remembered we replaced a part several years ago and I found the empty package (which I had saved. don't ask why :-) ). the package is for drive belts. Will that make a difference in where we should start looking?

Post# 572414 , Reply# 4   1/30/2012 at 13:48 (4,462 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Something in the tub?

volvoguy87's profile picture
There may be a sock or something in the outer tub.
Dave


Post# 572433 , Reply# 5   1/30/2012 at 15:01 (4,462 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
If spin is really weird

akronman's profile picture

check the three large springs from the tub legs down to the base of the machine. If one of them broke, the tub will almost always go out of balance.  Also, cheat the system a bit by clicking that "lid open" button behind the lid, so you can watch an entire load of clothes and see exactly what's occuring. Report back here and some pros will be better able than I to advise you.

 


Post# 572476 , Reply# 6   1/30/2012 at 17:20 (4,462 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

I'm thinking something in the outer tub is blocking the drain hose to the pump.

 

Unplug the machine, pull the front off, and you will see a hose from the outer tub going to the pump.  Take that hose off, make sure it's not plugged, and make sure nothing is blocking the port where the hose hooks up to the outer tub. Often it's a coin, a ball of lint, or similar.


Post# 572521 , Reply# 7   1/30/2012 at 21:19 (4,462 days old) by echolane ()        
Learned some new things...

When my husband came home from work we put a light load of kitchen towels and other lightweight items and watched it run through one cycle on the smallest load. Unlike yesterday's load of heavy bathroom towels and a jacket, these small items came out "normal" or almost normal as to degree of wetness.

Everything looks like its working very well, EXCEPT, we both thought the inner basket was "jiggling" too much and making the washing machine shake more than we thought it should under such a light load. We both think we need to test it under a larger and heavier (and more typical) load of clothes because something definitely was very wrong yesterday. I'll do this tomorrow morning.

But we are wondering: how do you open the case up? It looks like the top may pry up somehow, and then the front would pry off. How do you do this????


Post# 572523 , Reply# 8   1/30/2012 at 21:27 (4,462 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        
no

Maytags open from the bottom front


Post# 572542 , Reply# 9   1/30/2012 at 22:48 (4,462 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Jan,

 

There are two phillips head screws at the bottom of the front panel.  Once those screws are out, swing the bottom of the panel out. When it's out a little farther then in the photo below, the "clips" holding it at the top will let go and you can remove the panel. 

 

Kevin

 

P.S... what model is your washer?   Can you post a photo?  


Post# 572557 , Reply# 10   1/31/2012 at 01:03 (4,462 days old) by echolane ()        
Here's a photo of my A606

Here's a photo of the Maytag A606. It looks like the lid may pry off and then allow the entire front panel to be removed, but it's not obvious how to do this.

Sorry for the sideways photo. I took it in vertical mode, it shows up on my computer in vertical mode, but when uploaded to this site, it has been turned. Very puzzling :-).


Post# 572559 , Reply# 11   1/31/2012 at 01:15 (4,462 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Take a look at Kevin's posts in replies #8 and 9.  Removing the front panel is as easy as he has made it look.  No lid-prying required.


Post# 572579 , Reply# 12   1/31/2012 at 03:41 (4,462 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
REMOVING TOP AND FRONT PANEL ON MT A606 WASHER

combo52's profile picture

You must first remove the front panel as Kevin's photo shows and then remove two 3/8" screws that screw up into the top. If you surceased in prying the top off without removing the screws first you will likely do considerable damage to the washers cabinet parts and you may need the help of an auto body shop to fix the damage LOL.


Post# 572669 , Reply# 13   1/31/2012 at 12:27 (4,461 days old) by echolane ()        
Washing a heavier load

this morning I washed a full load of sheets and shirts and observed the following:

1. on the wash cycle, the agitator was WAY slower in comparison to a small load.

2. on the final spin cycle, the laundry was not left dripping wet, as were the towels that prompted my post, but they were noticeably wetter than the items in the small load, and wetter than they should be.

3. the motor is quite noisy and doesn't sound "right" on the high speed spin cycle.

So, I'm thinking something is "going", but not yet "gone", on this almost 40 year old machine.

Tonight, when my husband comes home, he will pull the front panel (I did find the phillips head screws, thank you!) and he'll look to see if there is anything obvious, per previous suggestions.


Post# 572686 , Reply# 14   1/31/2012 at 13:38 (4,461 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Sounds like a simple worn belt to me. If that does turn out to be the case, be sure to replace BOTH of the belts.

Post# 572688 , Reply# 15   1/31/2012 at 13:49 (4,461 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

Jan,

 

You can see both belts and a breakdown of the motor carriage, roller/glides and the springs in this drawing.

 

The two belts should come in one bag as a set and MAKE SURE you only get the correct Maytag (FSP) belts.   The larger drive belt goes on before the smaller pump belt.

 

As I mentioned before, check the motor carriage to make sure the motor is able to move easily back and forth.

 

Let us know how it turns out!

 

Kevin


Post# 572711 , Reply# 16   1/31/2012 at 16:20 (4,461 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Are you sure the button marked "gentle" isn't pushed?


Post# 572846 , Reply# 17   2/1/2012 at 10:01 (4,460 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT WASHER DRIVE BELTS

combo52's profile picture

Often the best approach when deciding to replace belts is to compare them to new belts and if the old belt looks like the new belt save your money. On MT washers there is almost never a need to replace the pump belt these normally well outlast the washer, again compare the two.

 

Putting a new set of belts on a 40 year old washer will not make it run like new again, it probably needs other repairs and adjustments. If it continues to give problems I would strongly suggest getting someone very experienced with older MTWs to look it over, otherwise you may end up wasting money and considerable time on this machine only to end up replacing it in the end.


Post# 572938 , Reply# 18   2/1/2012 at 17:40 (4,460 days old) by echolane ()        
Update and a question

We bought the new belts today and replaced the old ones (which look perfectly good, BTW). and then we looked inside the case (what a heavy front panel; I bet they don't put this much steel into the new ones). Inside looked surprisingly clean for a 39 year old. The springs were all in place; no rust or corrosion anywhere. The motor seemed to move easily enough on its slides.

The tub, OTH, leaves us with questions. It moved, though watching my husband, it was hard to judge whether it moved "easily"; at least it wasn't difficult. But when it was moved, it didn't recenter itself; it had to be pushed back into place. Is this normal?

Right now, we don't have enough clothes that need washing to test it with a heavy load. It'll take a few more days to accumulate enough to see if the new belts improved anything.


Post# 573102 , Reply# 19   2/2/2012 at 14:41 (4,459 days old) by echolane ()        
Fixed!

Borrowed a couple of bathroom mats from my neighbor and added some towels for a full load of wash and the agitator seemed to be working much faster (no, it definitely was not on "gentle" cycle before), and the items spun fairly dry, definitely not sopping wet as before, but also dryer than usual. I think the machine sounds a little noisier than it should on the spin cycle and probably could use some sort of "tune-up", if that's possible, but we will hang on to the old machine for a while longer!

THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

(I really was ready to quit and buy a new washing machine without trying to fix the old one - just because it's so old.)

Jan

P.S. Can't help but mention the cost of the new belts - a little over $50.00 with CA state tax. Seems like a lot for just two belts, doesn't it!





Post# 573113 , Reply# 20   2/2/2012 at 15:39 (4,459 days old) by StrongEnough78 (California)        

strongenough78's profile picture
$50 does seem quite a bit for new belts, however the cost of a whole new machine would be much more and not last anywhere near as long as this set has! You're going to get many many more years out of this set :)

Post# 573114 , Reply# 21   2/2/2012 at 15:47 (4,459 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
a606 question

joefuss1984's profile picture

Does the light above the timer come on after the load has finished?  I am trying to figure out what model my grandmother had.  It looked almost just like Jan's a606.   I seem to remember that between the white time markings and the knob was silver trim piece that would come off during the spin and just swing around the knob.  I don't notice that on this one.  I do clearly remember the orange light that I would have thought would be on while the machine was running only came on when the load was finished.  


Post# 573120 , Reply# 22   2/2/2012 at 16:12 (4,459 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Does the light above the timer come on after the load has fi

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

Hi Joseph,

 

No the neon light is on while the washer is operating.  If I remember correctly it goes out when you push the timer or lift the lid and stop the machine.

 

Kevin


Post# 573132 , Reply# 23   2/2/2012 at 16:51 (4,459 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

P.S. Can't help but mention the cost of the new belts - a little over $50.00 with CA state tax. Seems like a lot for just two belts, doesn't it!

You can thank Whirlpool for that. Many appliance manufacturers are trying to get you to buy a new appliance VS fixing the old one. So they raise the price of replacement parts.


Post# 573179 , Reply# 24   2/2/2012 at 22:46 (4,459 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
Even at $50 for 39 years that's only $1.28 a YEAR.

I've had 2 'Tags of the same era and neither belt lasted anywhere near that long. Whether the motor moved or not.


Post# 573346 , Reply# 25   2/3/2012 at 15:30 (4,458 days old) by echolane ()        
Light on the Timer

The light over the timer DOES come on after the wash has finished. An orange light, just above the dial. You have to push in the knob to turn the light off.

Post# 573351 , Reply# 26   2/3/2012 at 15:35 (4,458 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
HOORAY!!!

joefuss1984's profile picture

I have now identified the machine I am looking for.  I wasn't crazy all of these years then!  She bought her machine in the 1960;s used from the home ec department of the highschool in my home town.  It replaced a wringer washer.  She had this machine until 1995 when it stopped and she had said if it needed another repair she was replacing it.  After she bought the new Maytag machine she was sick to learn a belt had broken and needed replaced.  Most likely dry rotted as this was in a room off of the back porch.  Thanks Jan!



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