Thread Number: 38866
Meile W1918 Washer - Bearings or Shock absorbers?
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Post# 576561   2/17/2012 at 10:48 (4,444 days old) by jm ()        

Thread reference: 32606

I was going to continue using the above thread, but could not figure out how to simply add to that discussion....never done this....perhaps you can't add to old threads???

I was wondering if I could get some advice from someone?
I have a large family...have had the washer for 11 years…fantastic machine….no problems until now.

The machine is making a banging noise during final spin, however when moving the spinner by hand, it does not seem to knock like Grahams video post in above noted thread. I am wondering if perhaps I just need new shock absorbers?? Perhaps my bearings are still solid?

I just don’t want to rip the machine apart to find my bearings are ok. Would faulty shock absorbers create a similar banging noise?

Thanks for your time!





Post# 576635 , Reply# 1   2/17/2012 at 16:32 (4,443 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

A bearing test, if it is knocking during spin, is to reach in with both hands like at 12 and 6 o'clock positioned near the tub front and alternately push back with the top one and pull forward with the lower one and then the reverse to see if the tub rocks then try it with your hands at 9 and 3. Why not call Miele service? After 11 years of trouble free performance, you certainly can't complain about the maintenance costs.

My hat is off to you if that is your only machine and you have a large family. I really like my W1918 and W1986, but would not want either for my only washer.


Post# 576640 , Reply# 2   2/17/2012 at 16:44 (4,443 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Miele Service

launderess's profile picture
Call out charges are dear the world over. In our neck of the woods (NYC) it's about $175 just to get them to put a foot in the door. Appointment times can range from one to two weeks or longer. If you can give a good "guestimate" as to what is wrong then parts (expensive as well) will either be shipped to your home in advance of the techs arrival, or he will bring them (hopefully). Should one not know what the problem is and or otherwise the part isn't at the ready at the time of service call then another must be scheduled. During the interval one may or may not have use of the appliance.


Post# 576642 , Reply# 3   2/17/2012 at 16:47 (4,443 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Oh And There Is This As Well

launderess's profile picture
As Miele expands it's technican force and or the older workers retire those with knowledge of "older" units are fewer and their replacements often have little use for such things.

We've been advised several times by both Miele servicemen and even head of that department to basically stop wasting money repairing/putting parts into an "old" washer; junk it a buy a *new* Miele.


Post# 576676 , Reply# 4   2/17/2012 at 19:15 (4,443 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

It is the same with cars; you buy a premium brand and parts and service are more expensive. That's the way of the world as EW&F sang. As one titan said about a yacht, "If you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it."

Not to be cruel, but if after 11 years of service for a "large" family you can't invest in a service call to protect your original investment, I just don't know what to say. Maybe take the cost of a service call and buy a used deep tub Maytag.


Post# 576692 , Reply# 5   2/17/2012 at 21:30 (4,443 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)        

peterh770's profile picture
My 1918 does the same, raucous knocking about during spin. I haven't investigated, but I assume that at least one of the shocks is shot.

...But I also have a 1926 that I moved into place. It is amazing how much more it holds only being about 3 inches deeper!


Post# 576704 , Reply# 6   2/18/2012 at 00:15 (4,443 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Faulty shock absorbers make the drum more able to move around. The drum will be able to hit the glass. That will make a ring of damage on the glass. If you open the door, you will be able to see that.

The capacity of the 1918 is 5kg, the 1926 6kg, so the 1926 should be able to hold 20% more.


Post# 576741 , Reply# 7   2/18/2012 at 07:08 (4,443 days old) by jm ()        
Update on My W1918

Bad news….I have tried to run the machine a few more times and during final spin I have opened the front panel after machine has evacuated most of the water. This has allowed me to have a visual of the entire inside components during the final spin and accompanying loud banging noise. I do believe it is the bearings and not the shocks!! When I rotate the drum by hand it now makes a grinding noise.

After reading the entire thread noted above regarding the attempted bearing change, I think I will give up now.

I was thinking of selling this machine as a whole for parts??...$200 ???

During the month of February Miele is offering the 10 Year warranty ($500 value) as a free bonus with the purchase of their large capacity washers – IntelliQ 100 & 200.

I am very tempted to buy the IntelliQ 100 ($2050 + Tax = $2300). Considering the abuse my family will inflict on a washing machine in the next 10 years, the knowledge that everything would be covered in that time frame is comforting. I have heard the warranty would be serviced by a tech coming from Toronto, so turn around time would be hassle in the event of a breakdown; nevertheless, it wouldn’t cost me anything.

I am scared to go used considering how much we use the machine. We literally do an average of 3 LOADS EVERYDAY in our W1918 washer. Perhaps there would be fewer loads with the new larger capacity i100.

What do ya think???

Thanks for all your advice!

John


Post# 576932 , Reply# 8   2/19/2012 at 04:26 (4,442 days old) by qualin (Canada)        

Hey JM.

I don't think that buying an IntelliQ 100/200 would be a bad idea.

Either one of these machines have a 4.0 cu.ft drum, the W1918 has a tub capacity of 1.71 cu.ft. (According to a little bit of Google Fu)

So, I certainly think that your family would do less loads.


Post# 577178 , Reply# 9   2/20/2012 at 07:40 (4,441 days old) by jm ()        

Wow, that is a big diference in size! We are going to decide this week.....

Post# 577184 , Reply# 10   2/20/2012 at 08:38 (4,441 days old) by mrx ()        

We got 15 years out of a Miele washing machine and replaced it as the repair costs were a bit ridiculous.

The high voltage part of the electronics i.e. the switching system that controls the machine, had been damaged. This was partially our fault as we had the machine running on a wooden floor for its entire life, which was causing excessive vibrations.

It's been replaced with another Miele.

What has absolutely amazed me though is our Miele vented dryer. It was bought in 1995 and it still looks brand new. It gets vast amounts of use, but it still works absolutely flawlessly and it has never been repaired. No new belts, no bearing issues, nothing!

I opened it up once to ensure it wasn't full of fluff inside, just standard care and maintenance and there was absolutely no lint inside at all. So, it must make a pretty good seal with the drum.

I would reckon that the machine could have easily done up to 10,000 loads !




Post# 578009 , Reply# 11   2/24/2012 at 20:03 (4,436 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks For The Heads Up Regarding Shock Absorbers

launderess's profile picture
Noticed awhile ago there are two small areas of scratches on the glass porthole of my Miele w1070. Nothing major and certianly they do not go round whole or halfway but still it's nice to know what could be causing it.

Have seen vids on Youtube about replacing Miele shocks but don't think mine are *that* bad yet so will wait and see. While the parts themselves aren't expensive (by Miele's standards), the work involved is a bit much for my DIY skills. Apparently on units of my vintage the shocks can be swapped out via the bottom of the washer, but that involves moving the thing to an area where it can be inclined towards it's side to get at them.


Post# 578016 , Reply# 12   2/24/2012 at 20:36 (4,436 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Swapping Miele Shock Absorbers

launderess's profile picture
Just in case anyone wants or has need to archive this:

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK


Post# 578034 , Reply# 13   2/24/2012 at 22:49 (4,436 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
thread 32606

i looked at the old 32606 thread and i thought the miele washer looked to be in
very good condition and way worth a bearing repair;bearings were just standard
6305zz and 6306zz-readily avalible at most any electric motor shop or other
industrial supplier.The tub seal looked special though,could be a problem if not
readily avalible from miele...The stainless steel and apparently removable seal
sleeve on the spider shaft could be a bit of a problem too if unavalible seperate
-could position the seal to ride on unworn section or have a machinist make a new
sleeve.


Post# 578038 , Reply# 14   2/25/2012 at 00:10 (4,436 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
From What One Has Been Told

launderess's profile picture
Upon making inquires is that replacing the bearings on a Miele washer really only makes sense if one can do the work one's self, or if Miele will do it under warranty or some other sort of arrangment where it won't cost the owner much or anything.

One can see from UTube posts and DIY European DIY forums that for those with the skills and access to materials swapping out bearings on Miele (or any other domestic front loader) isn't *that* great a deal. However since Miele USA controls access to all parts and service materials North Americans are at a disadvantage. In most of Europe however one can pick up parts off store shelves as easily as we call "Sears Parts Direct".



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