What is your deal with the new Roper machines? In several posts you have swept people away with a broom from these. Your argument is that the water level is too low on the rinse when it has been repeatedly said (See ROPER RINSE RASH) that that can be adjusted by a VERY easily accessible switch inside the control panel. It would be much easier than opening up a transmission or even replacing the transmission. The Roper/Inglis is the only models really left of the Direct Drive platform, it would seems that one would want to go with one of these or a SQ, but given the cost differential, I would consider the Roper for sure and set the switch. More so when given the ~$350 difference in price

To the original poster, I suppose you can get anything you want, a SQ is a great machine and Qualin has listed some vendors for you. We don't know your budget, tinkering ability or any other factors. The Roper that is being repaired/replaced lasted 11 years and was a cheap machine to begin with so in my eyes it has been a success. I would expect that a new Roper to last a similar amount of time, and for under $400 that is a great run. I think the SQ/Heubsch machines are also wonderful, but command a higher price accordingly. After seeing the various failures of GE laundry products post-1995 I can safely say that I would never buy one. I think with these machines' reliability is truly a crapshot. If I were in the under $400 range, a WP built Inglis or Roper would get my money hands down.

-Tim

Also to the first poster, there are about 25 million DD washers in use as we speck that are no longer doing the neutral drain. This does NOT hurt the clutch at all, this washer was engineered to spin with a full tub of water, save your money and just keep using it.

As far as new, the Roper and Adrimal DD machines are a good low cost choice if you change the water level. I would avoid any new GE or Frigidaire laundry appliances, the GE top loaders are about the most unreliable and short lived washers on the market today.

They are REAL commercial machines (like you would find at a coin laundry) in a home package. High quality materials, stainless tub and absolute rugged build. These machines are design to be abused day in and out with minimal repairs and when repairs are needed many common parts are easily accessible from the front.

For the enthusiast, the SQ name carries a long history of neat machines and the famous long, slow stroke action similar to the 50's through 80's Maytags as well as others.

I think the big thing is quality for most, they are very solid machines.

-Tim

Heubsch is the commercial arm of SQ. Also in Canada most SQ models are sold under this name. It's the same machine. Also SQ machines are sold under the UniMac name as well. All are Alliance Laundry products.

-Tim

Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem. This is ignoring the fact that there are about 25 million DD washers working now that DO NOT  do the neutral drain any longer and are not leaking.

As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.

Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem.

As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.

I forgot to place the foam seal back in the tub after cleaning and managed to get some water spill, but never aside from that.

Norgechef, if there is a local repair or parts supplier, I bought a good used one for about $60, and usually these places have them by the dozen. They even threw in one with a 6-pad clutch for little to nothing, I don't think they generally come with the clutch (easy to swap though). I can see where it may sound daunting, but these machines are so simple to work on, even with a minimal understanding of mechanics you should be good. You don't even have to remove the tub to get it out. Someone here can help you, but I'd say $75-$100 and you'll have another machine ready to go.

Also as mentioned, you could continue using until it won't spin anymore. I've run into issues where the neutral get stuck and the machine has to be stopped/started several times for the cam to drop.

-Tim

Mark I am not doubting you for one minute that you had a WP DD washer that leaked when it did not neutral drain. But as we all should consider that one experience is not statistically accurate and there was something else wrong with the washer you were using. WP would never let a machine out of the factory if it would leak if you lifted the lid and closed it again.

When I remove a transmission from a DD washer I always remove the cabinet and top assembly first, yes it can be done without doing so but it is much harder not to have complete access. Not removing the cabinet and top first would be like doing open heart surgery on someone while they are still wearing a suit LOL.