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Thread Number: 39273
Turquoise Twins! |
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Post# 582014 3/12/2012 at 20:48 (4,421 days old) by washerlover  (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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So, a lovely trip to the Oregon Coast and took home a couple of souvenirs. These are what I believe to be 1964 vintage...have not tested them as of yet and still in the process of cleaning them up. Dryer is ready to go (thank you David for the lead on the lint filter) and washer ready for a water test. Washer tub seems to lean a bit to the left...not sure why. Machines are a little rough, but a thorough cleaning and waxing should help. Hope to have repainted in the future (in the same lovely shade of aqua!) Sorry for the bad photo, just parked them in one of the garage stalls to start some restoration.
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Post# 582015 , Reply# 1 3/12/2012 at 20:53 (4,421 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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More photos | ||
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Post# 582017 , Reply# 2 3/12/2012 at 20:56 (4,421 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Cheap Shot
Not too exciting -- I took the chrome agitator top off -- seems to have the usual spot for a fabric softener dispenser that is missing, of course. Tub definitely has a list to it. Have tried to push it back, but it likes the left-hand list. Any suggestions to fix? (and what the heck is wrong with my digital camera?)
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| Post# 582025 , Reply# 3 3/12/2012 at 21:26 (4,421 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
My washer tub leans to the left... Politically? LOL!
First, make sure the damper pads are in good shape. You can adjust the tub lean by adjusting the tub springs which, on this model, are down near the damper. Adjusting the nut that tightens or loosens the eyelet where the springs connect to the base will correct the lean but make sure the washer is perfectly level first...
RCD | ||
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Post# 582028 , Reply# 4 3/12/2012 at 21:33 (4,421 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Damper Pads?
So, being new to Maytag world, what are damper pads? I see some kind of felt thing stuck in the base of the tub spindle that I know does not belong there...is that the problem? Otherwise, I see the springs and can adjust the tension. Never have this problem with my Norge and Wards machines..! (I'm really trying to become a Maytag fan, really!) Thought I'd throw in the last photo I took -- of the dryer. Not sure why they are so blurry; it wasn't cocktail hour yet!
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| Post# 582031 , Reply# 5 3/12/2012 at 21:44 (4,421 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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Damper pads describe the three white felt pads that are glued to the base of the washer under the aluminum damper. That is the "bowl" shaped base that the three tub support arms are bolted to. Those pads are lubricated with PolyLube (a Maytag lubricant) so that the tub can move about without shaking the whole machine. If the pads are dry, the mechanism will grab onto the base and shake the whole thing. If those dry pads are left alone too long, they can be ripped off the base, fall out then the damper is metal on metal and makes the most horrific noises! Then you will most likely have to replace the damper which is a fun job made worse by the fact that the damper on the older Maytags is different than the one used on the 06 models and up and is NLA. Finding it is a pill, let me assure you.
A healthy damper should allow you to grab the agitator with one hand and move the tub around with little effort. If you have to really muscle it, it's time to lube the pads before awfull things happen... RCD | ||
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Post# 582033 , Reply# 6 3/12/2012 at 21:46 (4,421 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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| Post# 582049 , Reply# 7 3/12/2012 at 22:59 (4,421 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
Maytags
So let me guess, the washer is an A502 and the dryer is a DE302...
These are Super Highlanders (cape optional). the Supers came in the 500 and 300 series flavor. I'm going to go out on a limb and say they are 64's by looking at the dials. The dryer is 1 step down and is timed dry, the matching dryer to this was all electronic like a 702. In fact, this washer is mechanically the same as an A702 sans bleach dispenser and light. I have a matched set of these in white, both the 502's with the suds-saver washer, which I have not seen another. These machines look great in Turq, and I think you can get the damper situation fixed. Nice find! -Tim Here is a pic of my set: 
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Post# 582057 , Reply# 8 3/13/2012 at 01:03 (4,420 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Post# 582173 , Reply# 9 3/13/2012 at 14:52 (4,420 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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| Post# 582174 , Reply# 10 3/13/2012 at 14:58 (4,420 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
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Pilots | ||
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Post# 582179 , Reply# 11 3/13/2012 at 15:35 (4,420 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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Post# 582189 , Reply# 12 3/13/2012 at 16:24 (4,420 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 582237 , Reply# 13 3/13/2012 at 21:12 (4,420 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Leaks!
Washer = TA502
Dryer = DE302 Correct about the lighted indicators -- washer has bulb but does work so will try to fix. Dryer has the bracket for where the light should be but there's nothing there. Did a water test on the washer and here's what happened: Fill and water level checked out fine -- no leaks Agitation worked on both speeds -- then the leaking began right under the tub where the agitator shaft goes into the outer tub Spin only buzzes, no movement. I checked the belts, all are fine. I watched the pump during agitation, and see movement of water. Could the pump impeller be stuck? So, not sure where to begin on the leakage problem...the pump I think I can handle. Any suggestions are always welcome! I really am looking forward to getting this set back in proper action! Thanks, Todd | ||
| Post# 582254 , Reply# 14 3/13/2012 at 22:16 (4,420 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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Turn the trans pulley by hand. One direction will move the agitator. The other will release the tub brake and allow the tub to spin. Check for a tub that will not spin which would go hand in hand with the leaking tub seal which could have caused the tub bearing to seize. Not the end of the world! Dan and I did a how to post on changing said tub seal and bearing. It was on a 806 but it will also work for yours. It's a fun job to be sure but will help this little one last for quite a while! The only 'special' tool you'll need is the tub nut wrench but they can be found cheaply on FleaBay. One version of the tool also adapts to deal with the WP tub nut as well...
RCD | ||
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Post# 582371 , Reply# 15 3/14/2012 at 12:47 (4,419 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Thank you for the information. Is this the tub nut wrench?
Thanks, Todd CLICK HERE TO GO TO washerlover's LINK on eBay | ||
| Post# 582388 , Reply# 16 3/14/2012 at 15:10 (4,419 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
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Neon Indicator
Hi Todd, yes this looks like the correct tool. Also the the neon indicator is wired to where it will only light up when the lid is down and the cycle dial is pulled out. It will also light up on the "OFF" position with the lid shut to remind you the machine was recently used and to get your laundry. I don't know why they did not use a small incandescent bulb in these instead of the small neon light.
-Tim | ||
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Post# 582472 , Reply# 17 3/14/2012 at 20:51 (4,419 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Post# 583919 , Reply# 18 3/20/2012 at 12:29 (4,413 days old) by washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai段) |
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Washer problems
Okay, further work on the machine revealed the following:
After checking and replacing belts, everything moves and turns just fine, including the entire tub for spin cycle. However, the spin cycle does nothing now -- doesn't even buzz. Since I'm new to Maytag world, not sure where to begin. Also, this model does not appear to have a "flip top" -- how do I remove the inner and outer tubs to fix the leak? Thanks and hope someone can help... Todd | ||
| Post# 583943 , Reply# 19 3/20/2012 at 14:52 (4,413 days old) by AutoWasherFreak () | ||
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Beautiful set of Tags! | ||
| Post# 583948 , Reply# 20 3/20/2012 at 15:03 (4,413 days old) by MaytagA710 () | ||
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Hey Todd! Excellent set! They look beautiful! I hope you get a lot of use and joy from them. I step out of the forum for a month to focus on school, and it seems like everyone is getting Maytags! Lots of '02 and Highlanders on here. | ||
| Post# 583950 , Reply# 21 3/20/2012 at 15:12 (4,413 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
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Highlander Top The chrome trim needs to be removed and there are screws underneath as I understand it. I have to be very careful with the trim, you basically have to pry it up and work your way around the edges. I have not removed the top on mine yet though, so maybe someone else that has actually removed a top on one can give some pointers.
-Tim | ||
| Post# 584346 , Reply# 22 3/22/2012 at 03:52 (4,411 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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Welcome to the joys of rear service, cabinet off repairs on a Maytag Highlander. To save abuse on the chrome strip, you removed all the screws (Pozi's) where the cabinet attached to the base, undo hosing and wiring as needed and lift the cabinet off to allow access to the goodies you can't get to by just removing the back. Just remember to label your connections or better yet, use a digital camera to help 'remember' where things go.
The higher end washers like the 142 and 700's were front service and I wish the Highlanders were as well... Todd, you have the number... RCD | ||
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