Thread Number: 39337
Got the Machine need help! 1966 WP BD
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Post# 582955   3/17/2012 at 00:53 (4,421 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

OK I go the machine here. Here is what the scoop is..

1) it does not agitate.
I did check the see if the solinoids on the wig-wag were engageing and they ARE!
Could it mean that I need a new Tranny? :(

2) How do you remove the spin basket? I Do have a leak and its coming from where the lint filter inlet hose near the bottom of the out tub is. But I need to remove the spin baket first. I am down to the Big spanner nut that I can't remove. What do I need to get this off? can someone help here?

thanks in advance for your help.





Post# 582969 , Reply# 1   3/17/2012 at 05:37 (4,420 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Glad to see the machine made it there in one piece.


Post# 582975 , Reply# 2   3/17/2012 at 07:35 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Yea its here.. But man I did not realise what the work it needed

So Now I have the Spanner nut off How do I remove the tube? Is it threaded on or just pressed on?


Post# 582978 , Reply# 3   3/17/2012 at 07:48 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

OK I just answered My question on the tub..

Its Out..
So now how do you remove the Funny Cone shaped piece that the agitator drive on?


Post# 582989 , Reply# 4   3/17/2012 at 08:45 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

OK, Like I mentioned before the Machine will not Agitate. Even with the Wig-Wag work correctly to shift the gears... Where can I get a new transmision for this machine? Model number: LRA5500W 1

Post# 582992 , Reply# 5   3/17/2012 at 09:07 (4,420 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Slow Down

macboy91si's profile picture
I think you need to wait for people to respond and calm down. I realize that you are excited, but your original post is less than a 12 hours ago. Hang out and see if someone responds.

My question to YOU is how do you know the transmission is bad? What specifically does the machine do to make you think that? What noises does it make?

There are many parts to a belt-drive WP machine, how familiar are you with the workings? It may not be the transmission. Again slow down and do this slow and methodical otherwise you will end up with a pile of parts that never gets assembled.

Advice...


-Tim


Post# 583017 , Reply# 6   3/17/2012 at 12:17 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Exactly....Calm down......we all know the effects of getting a new toy.....take your time...and one thing at a time if your not fully aware of a machines mechanics and operation.......

JohnL will chime in as he always does....we love him to death...he's full of information......

It might even be best to have it shipped to him to rebuild it for you.......and even pay a visit some weekend while he is doing it......it is fascinating to tear one down and rebuild from the ground up........then you know that machine will last you for many years to come....

as far as the agitator block goes......if the hold down bolt is removed, usually you can put two heavy screwdrivers under it and pry down, it should slide up and off.....

you posted the model already....pics will also help John help you....


Post# 583021 , Reply# 7   3/17/2012 at 13:09 (4,420 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

revvinkevin's profile picture
 
 
One problem I ran into a couple years ago with a buddies '85 WP washer is the solenoid (wig-wag) plunger, which moves the cam bar to engage spin was bent.   When this happened it would engage but NOT dis-engage.  This caused the transmission to bind up (lock up) once it tried to agitate again and burn the drive belt.   
 
I had to remove the solenoid (wig-wag) assembly and replace the plunger (and the belt).   It worked perfectly after that!
 
See the link below, this is another thread about the exact same problem.

This video was before the repair. The "spin" cam bar is the one on the left. You can see (hear) it engage but see once the lid switch was released it did NOT stop spinning. You can also see the plunger bobbing up and down when it is SUPPOSED to take it out of spin.


 
Kevin


CLICK HERE TO GO TO RevvinKevin's LINK


Post# 583022 , Reply# 8   3/17/2012 at 13:13 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

OK
Here I s what I know..

1) There is a small Leak around where the inlet hose that gose to the Lint filter goes. It leaks the most when the machine is running and moving water.

2)As far as the agitator goes. When I have a Full tube, put it on wash the motor runs, the pump is pumping through the lint filter hose, but the agitator is not moving.
I went under the machine and both Wig-Wag solinoides are indeed working. They energise and de-energise to shift the transmision in its four different modes.
No mater what state either soliniod is in the machine will not agitate. If it not the tranny then someone please advise either way.


From a tear down point I have removed the inner tub now. and running my shop vac to clean up all the slag and junck in the outer tub.

The machine is covered in hard Calcium deposits and that Orange Iron rust is EVERYWHERE!!! It will be a Nightmare to clean it up!!!



Post# 583023 , Reply# 9   3/17/2012 at 13:14 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

RevvinKevin,

Well the Wig-Wag does indeed move the Cam bar OK, It will just not move the machine in to agitate gear.


Post# 583024 , Reply# 10   3/17/2012 at 13:51 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
well for the most part, we will say you have a tranny issue, but you do have movement inside because the wig-wag is oscillating, but somewhere inside, when the cam slides in to agitate, something is out of place when it should engage, it's not.....something inside is out of alignment or broke......

but nothing that can't be fixed......depends on how far you want to go, just replace the tranny, or take it apart, and put a replacement piece in there to allow the agitator to move......

replacement is easy, but taking it apart will teach you alot allowing you to observe its function


Post# 583026 , Reply# 11   3/17/2012 at 13:59 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Well Yogitunes really at this point I really just want to put a whole new tranny in and move on. There is so mich eles wrong with this machine you would not believe. If I could mark this one of MANY MANY issues off my plate on this. I would really feel a Moral victory. If I know where I could buy a complete Tranny I would gladly pay for it!

Tell me when I get a complete tranny how much of the center post parts will come with it?

Like, will it come with the spin tube? agitator shaft and bearings? Spin tube bearings?


and thanks for your input so far... good help..


Post# 583028 , Reply# 12   3/17/2012 at 14:04 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

RevinKevin,
I see where your soliniod plungers are not moving in and out of the lower slots. When it try to de-energise and move to the lower cam slot it jumps back out. This is NOT what is happening with mine. the soliniods move in and out of the CAM slot and move them in and out fine. It is when the the Cam bars have moved into agitate gear, I get not action.

Yeah there is oscillation cause the Wig-wag moves back and forth. Some how thisosciation motion is not getting to the agitation shaft.


Post# 583029 , Reply# 13   3/17/2012 at 14:45 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
for the most part.....

the tranny is gonna be just that, the tranny, which just does the agitation, with shifters and solenoids.....and the agitator post only...

the spin drive and tube is another seperate part altogether......

bearings are a seperate part as well......sometimes you can get a complete kit with spin drive and bearings....

right now, you could slide the tranny out of the machine, leaving the spin drive in place....if theres no knocking while spinning, I'd leave that alone for now.....

CLR should remove most of that calcium and iron from the machine with ease......

then you can work on that filter port, clean it real well, and reseal it in place...

yeah, this stuff is a slow process.....and wish it could be done and repaired in a day....an idea also is to find a newer model beltdrive, and just switch the top, something I have in the plans for myself, a 1965 top going onto a 1985 body....


Post# 583032 , Reply# 14   3/17/2012 at 14:53 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Yogitunes alright check it out..

Do you know of a whole kit that includes drive unit?

What is CLR??

You say I can remove the tranny without removing the Spin drive stuff? Maybe going into the tranny is something simple to fix..


Would I need to remove that Cone shaped six sided piece that drives the agitator? How would I remove this?

again great help..


Post# 583033 , Reply# 15   3/17/2012 at 14:53 (4,420 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
IINM if agitator is still free after wigwag solenoid has switched pump, agitator pawl is stuck or broken. Might start looking at trannies but don't take my word just yet cuz I'm not a WP mechanic. I put a belt in once and that's as far as I'm going.

Post# 583037 , Reply# 16   3/17/2012 at 16:04 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
yes that cone shaped "drive block" has to come off.......loosen the belt, take out bolts to the pump, and either remove, or push it out of the way, label and remove the wires to the wigwag, take off support braces, remove the 3 bolts to the tranny, keep in mind if your laying the machine on its front, the lower left tranny bolt has a sleeve used to connect, this will fall out, don't lose it, it will be re-used when you put this bolt back, also at this location is a small spring, take this off, and keep in mind of where it goes, and a small ball bearing may fall out of the agitator shaft, no biggie, just keep it to put back in place...but at this point...the tranny should slide out, leaving the spin drive in place....

take off the big pulley, the wigwag, shifters, and several bolts, and the top should come off....and inside is all the workings that make agitation happen...but you should be able to play around while turning the big pulley, and try to engage the agitation rod up and down, I can't help but wonder if the rod is actually stuck in the up position, which is neutral, pushing down engages agitation....

before you disassemble all of this, can you turn the big pulley by hand, while lifting the right plunger, keep turning the pulley, and look down inside, by the pumps lever is the rod that should go down to engage agitation, is it going down following the slide of the shifter, or it it staying in place, popped up?

am I confusing you?


Post# 583077 , Reply# 17   3/17/2012 at 18:11 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Yogitunes, your not confusing your helping ALOT...I will try that tonight in the Garage with my son and give you details of what I find before I go to bed.

It is intresting, I was looking at some photos on here of some trannys and I could sort of tell how the agitation works sort of.. The big pully turns something like a Choo Choo lever. the other end of this lever seems to wrk this half Gear. This half gear has a short shaft this shaft is what I think drives the agitator. But the half gear in turns drives the Wig-Wag gear. Is this Logic correct?

Now When the wig wag plunder is energised it pulls the sliding Cam bar a certain way. Now this is where I do not know where the engage or dis-engagement mechanism works. You say that some how this sliding cam bar works an up and down engagement? Is this Up and down engagement out side the tranny? You say something stuck? This might be a so-so easy fix...


Post# 583081 , Reply# 18   3/17/2012 at 18:28 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Hey Yogitunes! I do see what your talking about!! I did what you told me and yeah...It AINT going down (southern talk there lol). It still stays up! for some strang reason...Is there supposed to be a spring to push this rod down? What could it be?
WOW good call man!


Post# 583082 , Reply# 19   3/17/2012 at 18:29 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

I'll try to shoot it with some WD40 and see what happens..

Post# 583088 , Reply# 20   3/17/2012 at 18:57 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Yogitunes your a Genious!!! Thanks big Dog!!!

Now after I sprayed the WD40 and worked the plunger up and down I wonder if this will work from here on out...

Is there a such a thing as changeing the oil in the tranny? How is that done? I mean there is 50 year old oil in there..


Post# 583090 , Reply# 21   3/17/2012 at 19:16 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        
Southern talk is what it's all about......lol

yogitunes's profile picture
the oil can be changed....but it involves removing the tranny as above, and opening it up.......

I have never done it on any of my machines....and I would only think it would need done, if water got in there, you were rebuilding it, or its really like a sludge....but for the most part, its a sealed unit....others with experience with this can chime in, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....

I don't think theres a spring in there, it just slides up and down according to the shifters position.....its been a long while since I had one of these apart....

I just think your machine has been sitting for a while, and things are stiff/stuck...and once you get them moving/lubed again.....you should be good to go on a regular basis....

did you try plugging it in and seeing if the agitation now kicks in?......turn your timer to wash, pull off the pressure hose from the outter tub, and blow into it....it should kick right into agitation mode.....


jumping back a post or two......LimeAway and "CLR" are about the same thing.....Calcium Lime And Rust remover......can usually be found at places like Kmart, WalMart, ShopRite....near the chemicals for cleaning the kitchen or bath....
wear gloves, and maybe a mask, its potent, but for many has done a great job....sponge/spray it on full strength, scrub the area, and rinse off!......

so far...your on a roll.........what's next?


Post# 583097 , Reply# 22   3/17/2012 at 19:52 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Wow yeah right now thing are cooking hopfully things will continue to roll! I pluged the machine up and turned the dial to where the motor was running and pushed the plunger up and that little post dropped down and it srarted agitating!

As far as the rust goes I have been using and round wire brush on a drill and it been getting it off, but it is labor intensive. I might try the CLR stuff but I have a 4 year old helpin out...might be tough on him. The only thing is this wire brush kicks up alot of dust.

Now the big thing is fix the leak on the inlet hose coupling going to the pump I have the inner tube out and have the hose coupling. i am going to try to clean it up and put it back in and fill the out tub and see if it will stop the leak..


Post# 583102 , Reply# 23   3/17/2012 at 20:16 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
this is fantastic.....not the tear down we thought we were gonna get into....at least you now have agitation....so the tranny is good.....I pictured you jumping up and down when that kicked in....lol....I know I would be!

...but yeah, the wire wheel does make it go faster than by hand, and of course dust everywhere......I have a huge compressor with a hand sander, which uses these little disk, sands and smooths at the same time......usually done in the garage with the big fan blowing....but still a messy job........

you may also want to put sealant around other areas of the inner tub....hate to see you get it all together, and a leak pop from one of the hold down screws.....it happens....I was using GorillaGlue on mine, interesting stuff, you apply to one side, and the other side you wet down, join together, and some sort of clamping to hold in place, it sort of foams and activates, and seals in hours....I was amazed!.....

keep us posted on your progress!


Post# 583108 , Reply# 24   3/17/2012 at 20:47 (4,420 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Thanks Man!! I will.. yeah I was pretty happy to know that it agitates now. I wonder if I can get this littel black rubber Gasket from the appliance parts place?

Garrila glue? Well I have to get some JB Weld to fix the crack and hole in the lint dispencer filter... now I know I cant get another one of those..lol


Post# 583127 , Reply# 25   3/17/2012 at 22:01 (4,420 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Now....heres some things that will puzzle you....a lot of actual parts are NLA, NoLongerAvailable, and you may have to improvise, create your own, or think outside the box.......not sure which gasket you need, but this applies to so many things......

hit Lowes.....plumbing section, bathroom sink drains-they use a small rubber gasket that may work.....theres also a 5x5 piece of rubber gasket they sell to cut you own......Lowes also has a section of nuts and bolts, and odd hard to find items in little drawers...you will be suprised at what you can do with this stuff...

hit PEPBoys, AutoZone, etc....a huge variety of ring gaskets and stuff can work as well.....

FArm and Family Centers.....Lawn-Garden-Feed......I use a lawnmower belt on my beltdrives....a little thicker, and padded.....adds a little more kick to the agitation and spin speed.....very quiet as well...something to play with later....

also, can you post a pic of the dispenser piece thats broken......maybe we can work on that too....or someone may have a spare replacement....


Post# 583736 , Reply# 26   3/19/2012 at 20:31 (4,418 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

Well I spent money today...
I bought a list of stuff
1) New input water valve where Hot and cold water hoses connect
2) New Belt
3) New gasket for the leak around where the inlet hose goes at the bottom of the outer tub for the circulation pump.
4) New Clips to hold the top tub ring down.
5) New lock washerto hold the inlet line for the circulation pump on the outer tub.
6) New Agitator White now instead of black... The old one is covered in Calcium and Lim and rust.
7) New lint Filter.


Post# 583739 , Reply# 27   3/19/2012 at 20:45 (4,418 days old) by YOGITUNES (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
1966 thats cool......where are you finding this stuff....some should have been NLA

Post# 583883 , Reply# 28   3/20/2012 at 10:09 (4,417 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

I called Fox-appliance here local and they gave me part numbers for all these parts I needed. Then I did a Google in Whirlpool and that particular part number and you will run accross some distributer that has some old stock... The Seal was the last one they had on the shelf!!

ebay also has parts...they have the agitator and the lint filter.


Post# 583933 , Reply# 29   3/20/2012 at 13:51 (4,417 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
agitator

joefuss1984's profile picture

Surely that agitator can be cleaned.  I would hate to replace it with something other than original.


Post# 584059 , Reply# 30   3/21/2012 at 01:04 (4,417 days old) by westingman123 ()        
Or at least...

SAVE it! If you don't want it, somebody will. Does it have the chrome cap that matches the magic-mix filter?


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