Balky A806

I'm reading out of the book here, so give me a break. If you have your schematic, try and follow it from the power supply through the tests below.

Is there power at the outlet? Is the water on? I know. Simple, but it happens. Is there 120V where the hot and common connect to the timer?

Open and close the lid. Is there continuity through the lid switch when the lid's closed? Does the plunger and bracket assembly depress the lid switch button until it clicks when the lid closes? If not, loosen the switch and slide it forward until it clicks, then tighten. Check continuity again.

Set the timer to the middle of the wash cycle. Close lid. Pull out the knob. Is the solenoid getting 120 volt supply? Try another cycle like Permanent Press or rinse. Does the timer supply voltage to the solenoids when you pull out the knob? Do the solenoids in the water valve make any noise when knob's pulled out; like a click and buzz?

Disconnect the lines from the timer to the water valve. Apply a live test cord to the solenoids. They should click and then hum or maybe buzz. Is the valve clogged with debris? Clean screens.

Check the temperature switch. Are the buttons fully depressed? Is there continuity through the switch on the different temp. selections? Usually tested on opposite sides of switch, I believe.

Next try taking the hose off the pressure switch(water level switch)and see if you can blow through it, as Ben suggested. If it's clogged it won't work. If it's not then you can take a little hose that will fit on the pressure switch or another air dome and hose(if you have one)and attach it to the pressure switch. Blow in it until you hear a click. That's the switch closing, telling the timer to turn off the water and start the agitator. If you don't hear the click the switch is bad or stuck. If it clicks and doesn't stay clicked the diaphragm has gone bad.

If it clicks, pinch the hose shut with a pair of Vice-grips. If it holds air the washer will agitate w/o water if the timer's ok. Turn the timer to the middle of the wash cycle and pull out the knob. Try it on rinse and permanent press too. It should dry agitate in all wash settings. Remove the hose and reconnect the original hose that connects to the tub.

Push the buttons on the water level switch. The metal bar should move the center adjustment in an out when different buttons are pushed. If it's hanging you can try and lubricate it.

Start at the beginning and when you get to a test that doesn't work, suspect that part and double check. If parts don't seem bad check continuity through wiring. Look for burned or loose connections and broken wiring.

You probably know a lot of these things already. Just going through the list. If you get shocked, don't blame me.


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Post# 588855 4/12/2012 at 19:14 (4,395 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))
Checkrate/Likes If you had a Maytag A806 that spins, but doesn't agitate or fill, where would you start?

Post# 588857 , Reply# 1 4/12/2012 at 19:27 (4,395 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)
Checkrate/Likes Pressure switch or timer.

Post# 588858 , Reply# 2 4/12/2012 at 19:29 (4,395 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes 1 *A806 that won't agitate or fill* That may be two different problems, I would find out why it doesn't fill first as filling is necessary for agitating.

Post# 588861 , Reply# 3 4/12/2012 at 19:33 (4,395 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)
Checkrate/Likes Most likely timer.

Post# 588867 , Reply# 4 4/12/2012 at 20:03 (4,395 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes *Water valve?* The pressure switch must be satisfied before it will close the circuit to allow agitation. If the pressure switch doesn't sense water, then no agitation. Dave

Post# 589087 , Reply# 5 4/13/2012 at 15:57 (4,394 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)
Checkrate/Likes I agree with John...look into the non-fill condition first as that may lead to answers on the second issue. Many Kenmores and Whirlpools have dry agitate periods wired into the last few minutes of the wash period on the Normal cycle. Does Maytag have anything like this? If so, then you can test agitation that way. If not, you may be able to satisfy the pressure switch with blown-in air to see if the machine will agitate. Do you hear any humming sounds or solenoid noises when the machine should be filling? Set the machine on a warm setting so both solenoids will be activated. If you don't hear any humming of the valve in any fill sections of any cycle, then you have either no current going to the valve (timer or pressure switch), or a doubly bad valve. Either way, that could be interfering with completion of the agitate circuit. Gordon

Post# 589089 , Reply# 6 4/13/2012 at 16:06 (4,394 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)
Checkrate/Likes *dry agitate periods* Unless this is a suds-saver, then no, Maytag's unfortunately do not have a period of dry agitation built into metered fill timers. I soooo wish they did. To echo John and Gordon - determine why the valve is not producing water. Strange that neither the cold nor hot sides would not be working. I'd start by checking for current at the solenoids when the machine is activated for a wash fill to start. Then work your way up to the switch. I often will dry test agitation by hooking up a spare hose to the pressure valve and blow gently into it until the machine begins to agitate. Ben This post was last edited 04/13/2012 at 16:23

Post# 589106 , Reply# 7 4/13/2012 at 17:40 (4,394 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))
Checkrate/Likes I swapped out the timer and no change. Replaced the solenoids and its alive! So it was both solenoids that were dead. Weird!

Post# 589134 , Reply# 8 4/13/2012 at 20:52 (4,394 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)
Checkrate/Likes *No Fill?* I'm reading out of the book here, so give me a break. If you have your schematic, try and follow it from the power supply through the tests below. Is there power at the outlet? Is the water on? I know. Simple, but it happens. Is there 120V where the hot and common connect to the timer? Open and close the lid. Is there continuity through the lid switch when the lid's closed? Does the plunger and bracket assembly depress the lid switch button until it clicks when the lid closes? If not, loosen the switch and slide it forward until it clicks, then tighten. Check continuity again. Set the timer to the middle of the wash cycle. Close lid. Pull out the knob. Is the solenoid getting 120 volt supply? Try another cycle like Permanent Press or rinse. Does the timer supply voltage to the solenoids when you pull out the knob? Do the solenoids in the water valve make any noise when knob's pulled out; like a click and buzz? Disconnect the lines from the timer to the water valve. Apply a live test cord to the solenoids. They should click and then hum or maybe buzz. Is the valve clogged with debris? Clean screens. Check the temperature switch. Are the buttons fully depressed? Is there continuity through the switch on the different temp. selections? Usually tested on opposite sides of switch, I believe. Next try taking the hose off the pressure switch(water level switch)and see if you can blow through it, as Ben suggested. If it's clogged it won't work. If it's not then you can take a little hose that will fit on the pressure switch or another air dome and hose(if you have one)and attach it to the pressure switch. Blow in it until you hear a click. That's the switch closing, telling the timer to turn off the water and start the agitator. If you don't hear the click the switch is bad or stuck. If it clicks and doesn't stay clicked the diaphragm has gone bad. If it clicks, pinch the hose shut with a pair of Vice-grips. If it holds air the washer will agitate w/o water if the timer's ok. Turn the timer to the middle of the wash cycle and pull out the knob. Try it on rinse and permanent press too. It should dry agitate in all wash settings. Remove the hose and reconnect the original hose that connects to the tub. Push the buttons on the water level switch. The metal bar should move the center adjustment in an out when different buttons are pushed. If it's hanging you can try and lubricate it. Start at the beginning and when you get to a test that doesn't work, suspect that part and double check. If parts don't seem bad check continuity through wiring. Look for burned or loose connections and broken wiring. You probably know a lot of these things already. Just going through the list. If you get shocked, don't blame me.

Post# 589468 , Reply# 10 4/14/2012 at 22:21 (4,393 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)
Checkrate/Likes LOL I've done that a couple of times.

Post# 589471 , Reply# 11 4/14/2012 at 22:32 (4,393 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))
Checkrate/Likes (laughs) well, its here for posterity now, Brian. And yeah, coulda stopped at the second line, since the machine was happy to spin. So it was getting 110 from the wall. I got the machine to fill after putting in replacement solenoids. I managed to screw up the out of balance lever tho, and it was pretty rusty so I replaced that as well. The ballast for the panel light was dead so a replacement got that light going. Now I need to source the tub light and this girl can get put aside so I can work on something else. Lucky me, I have some time this week. Thanks for the assistance! I'll post pics soon.

Post# 589474 , Reply# 12 4/14/2012 at 22:42 (4,393 days old) by applianceguy47 ()
Checkrate/Likes "ballast for the panel light ", "tub light" ?? Sounds Awesome. Pictures? Pictures? Please

Post# 589136 , Reply# 9 4/13/2012 at 20:54 (4,394 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)
Checkrate/Likes I just wasted a bunch of time. lol.