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Thread Number: 40192
Maytag Highlander |
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| Post# 594956 5/7/2012 at 23:05 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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| Post# 594957 , Reply# 1 5/7/2012 at 23:07 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another view | ||
| Post# 594958 , Reply# 2 5/7/2012 at 23:10 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another view | ||
| Post# 594959 , Reply# 3 5/7/2012 at 23:11 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another view | ||
| Post# 594960 , Reply# 4 5/7/2012 at 23:14 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another View | ||
| Post# 594961 , Reply# 5 5/7/2012 at 23:15 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another view | ||
| Post# 594962 , Reply# 6 5/7/2012 at 23:19 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Another view | ||
| Post# 594965 , Reply# 7 5/7/2012 at 23:26 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Is this normal? | ||
| Post# 594967 , Reply# 8 5/7/2012 at 23:53 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Correction | ||
Post# 594988 , Reply# 9 5/8/2012 at 02:09 (4,364 days old) by d-jones  (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Hi Anthony!
That dryer really photographs well. Thank you kindly for taking it off my hands and I sincerely hope it provides you with many years of reliable service. And before I forget, best of luck to you in tracking down the matching washer.
Now regarding that paper clip looking thing, I think it needs to be put back in place for the dryer to function properly. Unless I'm mistaken, it ties the slide switch(on the left in the photo) to the solenoid(the yellow thing on the right) allowing the solenoid to shut down the burner at the appropriate time during the drying process. I'm sure other people on this blog can explain it better than I can, but if I'm reading the service manual correctly it needs to be there. | ||
| Post# 594989 , Reply# 10 5/8/2012 at 02:22 (4,364 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
Yup. That link needs to be there. It connects the shut off solenoid to the control switch. The strike for the bell threads thru there so that when the solenoid activates and pulls the control switch slide over, it also strikes the bell. You should be able move the solenoid by hand to test the linkage as well as the bell strike travel. Without that link, the solenoid cannot move the switch slide and the dryer will. Ever shut off.
Nice looking dryer! RCD | ||
| Post# 594996 , Reply# 11 5/8/2012 at 03:04 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Dryer Model | ||
| Post# 594997 , Reply# 12 5/8/2012 at 03:16 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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David
Thank you again David. I think what I will do is run the access door down to a paint shop, and have the color matched. Wonder how good there are at really getting a perfect match on colors. And from what I learned, once I do get some paint, they sell this little apparatus that will be able to spray the paint on.
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Post# 595000 , Reply# 13 5/8/2012 at 05:16 (4,364 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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 Anthony, "DG" = Dryer, Gas.
The matching washer may end in 502 but the model number may start with an "A"
Experts here can advise.
That's an interesting transitional model with the knob on the door instead of a handle. And it's beautiful, btw. Best dryer I ever owned was an electronic control Maytag about 10 years newer than yours. The striker for the bell was gone on mine. I improvised and found a sheet metal screw to secure in place of the striker and the bell worked from that point on. | ||
| Post# 595005 , Reply# 14 5/8/2012 at 05:40 (4,364 days old) by WaterWitch (Pomona, Calif.) | ||
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Ralph- | ||
| Post# 595010 , Reply# 15 5/8/2012 at 05:52 (4,364 days old) by alr2903 (TN) | ||
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Does T= turquoise? Nice Tag dryer. alr | ||
| Post# 595012 , Reply# 16 5/8/2012 at 06:08 (4,364 days old) by cmlrobison (Ontario, NY) | ||
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Gorgeous! It sure does photograph well! | ||
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Post# 595016 , Reply# 17 5/8/2012 at 06:57 (4,364 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT TDG502 Dryer WOW the outside is in good shape, someone really babied that dryer, congratulations on a rare find., The T in the model # is for turquoise, the exact matching washer would be a TA502 or a TA502S if it has the California Water Resources Board Required Suds-Saver, LOL. Your best chance at getting a matching washer may be to get a white one and have it painted.
If you want to put this dryer into regular use it should be gone over fairly completely mechanically, and cleaned and lubricated. The parts that usually would need replacement are belts, motor pulley and the front felt seals that are around the inlet shroud and other parts as needed. I did a gas HOH dryer a year ago and just completed a DE750 electric model, I do have some extra parts around if you need them, Good Luck , John. | ||
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Post# 595061 , Reply# 18 5/8/2012 at 11:51 (4,364 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham)) |
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Post# 595106 , Reply# 19 5/8/2012 at 14:28 (4,364 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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Nicely toasted door seal at the heat inlet point (not quite a halo). | ||
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Post# 595109 , Reply# 20 5/8/2012 at 14:44 (4,364 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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(not quite a halo) | ||
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Post# 595112 , Reply# 21 5/8/2012 at 14:59 (4,363 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 595120 , Reply# 22 5/8/2012 at 16:15 (4,363 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR) |
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awesome dryer!! | ||
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Post# 595160 , Reply# 23 5/8/2012 at 18:51 (4,363 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Some thoughts about painting.
Painting an entire machine properly is a major undertaking that requires a great deal of preparation(hardware and trim removal, cabinet disassembly, sanding and feathering, priming, more sanding, etc). And the typical tape and spray paint job is just awful. They look good from across the room, but terrible up close. That's why if the finish on the machine in question is salvageable(which yours likely is) then I'd think twice about doing it. If the faded streaks and spots on the finish are bugging you(they certainly bugged me) then I'd try buffing them out before I did anything more drastic. Having worked on a few of them myself by hand with mild rubbing compound, I know they'll come off, as the discoloration seems to be right at the very surface of the paint. Unfortunately, though the results can be excellent, it's really tiresome to do by hand. I'm currently in the process of rubbing out the paint on the yellow Maytags I picked up in January, and to make it easier I've been doing an eight by eight square section of the cabinet every day(when I remember)and the results so far are really encouraging. But if that sort of thing doesn't appeal to you, you might try having a mobile auto detailer come by and do it for you. They have tools that'll make the job go quickly, and the cost shouldn't be that much different. I just purchased some custom mixed Harvest Gold catalyzed enamel to use on my parents washer(it had some corrosion issues all along the lower edge of the cabinet that required sand blasting) and the paint, hardener, and thinner, in the smallest quantities I could order came in just shy of a hundred dollars.
I'm not saying you can't paint your machine and have it come out well, because I know it can be done. But it's very hard to duplicate the quality of a baked on factory finish. Consequently, on large items that I can't bake in an oven, I only repaint as a last resort. | ||
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Post# 595577 , Reply# 24 5/10/2012 at 18:55 (4,361 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Here's a photo of what a little rubbing compound can do.
I had been working my way across the top of the front panel, but today I did a section across the top of the side. The difference between the rubbed out section and the rest of the panel is even more impressive in person. Unfortunately, the camera flash washed it out a little. Once the faded areas are entirely rubbed out and the color is as deep as it's going to get, the chips and scratches can be filled in, sanded smooth and polished out as well, rendering them virtually undetectable. Of course, for this last step to work properly the touch up paint needs to be as precise a match as possible to the paint on the cabinet. As I said earlier, it's not easy, but it's worth the effort. At any rate, whatever you decide to do, whether you choose to restore the paint, or repaint instead, please remember to share some photos of the finished machine so we can all see how it came out.
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Post# 595580 , Reply# 25 5/10/2012 at 19:21 (4,361 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 595593 , Reply# 26 5/10/2012 at 20:09 (4,361 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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This model Highlander(and perhaps all Highlanders) uses no porcelain on the cabinet, the finish is entirely painted on. So theoretically he could find a matching washer in any color and repaint it to match. But as we all know, the best solution is always to find one in the correct color to begin with.
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Post# 595614 , Reply# 27 5/10/2012 at 22:15 (4,361 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 595636 , Reply# 28 5/10/2012 at 23:53 (4,361 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Highlander tops | ||
| Post# 595638 , Reply# 29 5/10/2012 at 23:58 (4,361 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
Does it have a light on the control panel when its operating | ||
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Post# 595639 , Reply# 30 5/11/2012 at 00:16 (4,361 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 595748 , Reply# 32 5/11/2012 at 12:21 (4,361 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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What's the difference in the Regular and Wash n Wear cyc
I was speaking to John (Combo52) last night and this just happened to come up in conversation. He stated that Maytag set the "regular fabrics" autodry mode (on the HOH dryers) to shut off when the clothes are just barely dry, so not to over dry them.
In fact (John) had complaints from every 3rd or 4th Maytag HOH owner saying the clothes "are not dry enough" when the dryer shuts off. He also said Maytag had a fix for this which replaced a capacitor on the circuit board, allowing the clothes to get more dry before it would shut off.
But back to the question. John said the "Wash n Ware" setting use the same drying tempertures, but will get the clothes "more dry" then the "regular" setting.
Kevin
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