Thread Number: 42171
New here and in need of a little help. |
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Post# 620868   8/28/2012 at 15:27 (4,255 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Hubby is going to pick up a KDB-21B tonight and wondered if anyone can help me really understand what im getting. |
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Post# 620890 , Reply# 3   8/28/2012 at 17:23 (4,255 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Ok so the other one is looking like a KUDS23 model. Which one should I choose LOL?? |
Post# 620900 , Reply# 4   8/28/2012 at 18:22 (4,255 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 620904 , Reply# 5   8/28/2012 at 18:29 (4,255 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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There are members here who feel the KUDS23 has a better pump and filter system than earlier models. That machine will definitely give you more cycle options than the KDB21, which you may find helpful considering it will be tackling big jobs generated by a large family, and it will operate much more quietly.
I'd be suspicious of the seller's speculation about needing a gasket for the inlet or outlet, and suggest you ask them to elaborate or show you just where the leak is located. If it needs a new pump seal, that's a much bigger job, and you may not find a repair service willing to deal with a machine of that age. A KUDS23 would date back to the mid-90's or so. |
Post# 620919 , Reply# 6   8/28/2012 at 19:36 (4,255 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Post# 620954 , Reply# 8   8/28/2012 at 21:59 (4,255 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Here's a picture and the link to the KUDS23, however it sure looks like that horizontal light says "Rinsed Only," which would make it pre-23 series, no?
Nice looking machine regardless, with the panel I like best. I wish one of these would turn up around here. CLICK HERE TO GO TO rp2813's LINK on Detroit Craigslist |
Post# 620955 , Reply# 9   8/28/2012 at 22:04 (4,255 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 621015 , Reply# 10   8/29/2012 at 07:58 (4,255 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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All KA DWs built after the 18s have water heating capabilities. So it may be risky and expensive with many children in the house to raise the water temp too much. I would add insulation to this DW when you install it and if used on the heavier cycles it should do a great job with a water temperature entering the machine somewhere between 120-130 degrees and the machine will last much longer at a slightly cooler temperatures. |
Post# 621081 , Reply# 12   8/29/2012 at 14:32 (4,255 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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No offense, but . . . ROFL! If only it were that convenient.
SteveT or other experts can advise if it's available through Hobart. Believe it or not, the fact that you went for the older Hobart machine increases your chances of finding the seal.
So how did the test run go? Inquiring minds (and we have a lot of those here) want to know! |
Post# 621086 , Reply# 14   8/29/2012 at 15:01 (4,254 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Oh and the test run was great. 53 mins from start of cycle to the start of the drying. I was AMAZED. My old DW was 2 hours before it got to the dry cycle. A few items had food left on them but they were insanely think and caked on. |
Post# 621089 , Reply# 15   8/29/2012 at 15:11 (4,254 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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"A few items had food left on them but they were insanely thick and caked on."
Today's non-phosphate dishwasher detergents are not nearly as effective at removing that kind of soil as those of yesteryear. That having been said, some of today's detergents are way better than others, and the addition of a small amount of STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) to each load will work wonders in getting things clean. Again, I'll let more knowledgeable people here advise you further, but I did want you to know that even more improvements in automatic dishwashing are possible. |
Post# 621129 , Reply# 16   8/29/2012 at 17:14 (4,254 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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This could be an issue with your vintage machine. Phosphates were removed from dishwasher detergents across the board about two years ago or so, and spotting, filming, and generally poor cleaning results ensued across the country. You can find institutional detergents that still have phosphates, but you'll have to look for such products somewhere besides the supermarket. Your previous dishwasher could manage without phosphates because it ran so damned long. Older machines were designed to get the job done quickly, but also presumed the detergent would contain phosphates.
If your water is soft enough, you may get away with phosphate-free detergent. I've read here that people are having good luck with the "power ball" and packet/tablet types of detergents, but take a good look at them to make sure they'll fit in your dispenser. Also, using a product like "Lemishine" (basically citric acid and available at Target) will help. I'd recommend running a full cycle with Lemishine (with dishwasher empty) to clean the interior and other components before putting the machine into regular use. But first, with tub door open flat -- and you won't be able to see it unless you stick your head inside the tub but you can just feel around with your fingers -- all along the bottom of the door there's a lip where funky greasy residue tends to accumulate. Clean that stuff up and keep tabs on it going forward.
Any items with caked-on soil should be placed on the bottom rack tilted toward the center of the tub to give the 4-way Hydrosweep spray arm the best chance at getting them clean. |
Post# 621312 , Reply# 19   8/30/2012 at 10:41 (4,254 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I'm not understanding where the "crud/rust" area is. Can you be more specific? Pictures would definitely help.
Also, in my previous post I wasn't referring to the door gaskets, I was directing you to the bottom of the door itself where there is no gasket, just an overlapping section that keeps the water inside the tub. It's that overlapping lip at the bottom of the door that accumulates residue and should be wiped clean periodically. |
Post# 621317 , Reply# 20   8/30/2012 at 11:27 (4,254 days old) by retropia ()   |   | |
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Our local GFS still carries Cascade Institutional/Foodservice powder with phosphates, and it works great. |
Post# 621403 , Reply# 21   8/30/2012 at 18:58 (4,253 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Also, in my previous post I wasn't referring to the door gaskets, I was directing you to the bottom of the door itself where there is no gasket, just an overlapping section that keeps the water inside the tub. It's that overlapping lip at the bottom of the door that accumulates residue and should be wiped clean periodically. |
Post# 621409 , Reply# 22   8/30/2012 at 19:52 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Here is where the hard stuck on crud that I can not get off. |
Post# 621424 , Reply# 24   8/30/2012 at 21:13 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Sure let me go take some more pics for you. |
Post# 621425 , Reply# 25   8/30/2012 at 21:18 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Inside |
Post# 621426 , Reply# 26   8/30/2012 at 21:19 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Panel at a distance |
Post# 621427 , Reply# 27   8/30/2012 at 21:26 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Sorry for some reason the pics are way small now. I can't seem to get my cellphone to cooperate with me. I can't delete so trying to add another picture of up close |
Post# 621428 , Reply# 28   8/30/2012 at 21:28 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Right side |
Post# 621429 , Reply# 29   8/30/2012 at 21:29 (4,253 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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I took the tap water temp and it is at 133 degrees but I can bump it up a notch. |
Post# 621455 , Reply# 32   8/30/2012 at 23:13 (4,253 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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No need to add anything to what Steve-the-Hobart-SME has stated above.
You can't get more simple and straight-forward than this with a KitchenAid dishwasher!
Interesting how the timer has an "Off" position between Rinse/Hold and Normal cycles. Saved them a selector button and related wiring. Truly unusual and the most BOL model offered, but still an entirely capable machine.
Congratulations Jen! You should get many years of trouble-free service from your "new" KitchenAid!
P.S.
See you back here when your modern clothes washer fails. ;-) This post was last edited 08/31/2012 at 04:07 |
Post# 621547 , Reply# 33   8/31/2012 at 08:24 (4,253 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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In my house, I am re-doing the water heating system and most of the plumbing. I am debating the best way to get really hot water. I want my primary hot water to be 120 degrees. This will feed all the taps, showers, and the back spigot (mixing valve spigots are GREAT!). I want 150 degrees or so to go to all the washing machines and dishwashers. I've got 2 options.
Option 1, have a small tankless water heater to boost the temperature of the hot water for my appliances (30 degree temperature rise won't require a big one). Option 2 is to have the water heater set to 150 all the time and then use a thermostatic mixing valve to temper the water down to 120 for the taps. A thermostatic mixing valve mixes cold water into hot water to make warm water. It can also extend the capacity of a tank-style water heater because the tank of water is kept at a higher temperature, but less of it is used to make a given volume of tempered water. In my system, the 120 degree tempered water would supply most of the plumbing, but I would install a T fitting to supply un-tempered 150 degree water to my appliances. My water heating system will be highly efficient, and it will be less expensive to heat water via water heater than via heaters in individual appliances. It will also reduce wear and tear on the appliances by reducing the time spent in a heating delay. Clear as mud? Dave |
Post# 621572 , Reply# 35   8/31/2012 at 11:15 (4,253 days old) by retropia ()   |   | |
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Would a little vinegar or LimeAway in the sump on top of those mineral deposits also work to remove them? I often use vinegar to dissolve the mineral deposits that build up on our faucet spouts and aerators. |
Post# 621589 , Reply# 36   8/31/2012 at 14:23 (4,253 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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And Jen, for now you're running the tap at the sink until the water is at its hottest before starting the dishwasher, right?
Also, I don't know what the rest of your kitchen looks like, but are you aware that you can still get the stainless steel door and access panel inserts for your KDB21 through Sears parts?
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Post# 621617 , Reply# 37   8/31/2012 at 16:54 (4,252 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 621643 , Reply# 38   8/31/2012 at 18:58 (4,252 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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No I haven't been running the tap first. Honestly I load it and turn it on and come back an hour later to beautifully cleaned dishes. I'll try the tips and see how much better we can get it :) |
Post# 621649 , Reply# 39   8/31/2012 at 20:27 (4,252 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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If your washer ever dies, get back to us and we'll give you the secret Maytag handshake.
Simplest, most straightforward engineering in the business and longevity like you would not believe. Mine are from 1977 or so. I got into Maytags when a more "modern" washer broke down, and I was astonished at how much cleaner the first load came out than the results from my old machines. In fact, you might even enjoy switching before you have to. Jus' sayin'. |
Post# 621670 , Reply# 40   8/31/2012 at 23:18 (4,252 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Lol I'vebeen bittenby the bug...I sent an email on another DW. Its too pretty not to. |
Post# 621671 , Reply# 41   8/31/2012 at 23:22 (4,252 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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No I haven't been running the tap first. Honestly I load it and turn it on and come back an hour later to beautifully cleaned dishes.
Pretty soon, we'll have you shooting up and racing to the kitchen faucet for a good purging every time you hear it drain. I get a good laugh from friends and family members when I do that with the 18's and the 19, lol. We'll give you the secret Maytag handshake. Love it! That Series 2 806 washer and 808 dryer are stunning, Sandy. Still don't understand your squeamish issues with the Almond color ;>) Those remind me of the set Revinkevin use to have. |
Post# 621678 , Reply# 42   9/1/2012 at 00:36 (4,252 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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Lol the hubby already thinks I'm nuts...what's running through the house to run the tap haha :-P |
Post# 621689 , Reply# 44   9/1/2012 at 01:31 (4,252 days old) by AutoWasherFreak ()   |   | |
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Those early Maytags are some of best and most dependable washers and dryers ever made! |
Post# 621703 , Reply# 45   9/1/2012 at 03:29 (4,252 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I only run the tap once before starting the machine. Because my machine has automatic water heating, I don't bother running the tap before each subsequent fill. The water stays hot enough to provide the machine with at least the minimum temperature required for the automatic heating system to bring it the rest of the way up to optimum wash temp.
That's one of the things that annoyed me about the Thundering Thermador's steam cycles. It would take up to 45 minutes to complete the steaming sequence, and by that time the water in the pipes was such that it was like giving the dishes a cold shower after that steam bath. A ridiculous gimmick on an over-all ridiculous excuse for a dishwasher. It was beautiful on the outside, though.
My Hobart-inspired ISE Classic Supreme has been a delight to use after giving the TT the boot a year and a half ago, and of course it's infinitely quieter. Almost anything would be. |
Post# 621710 , Reply# 46   9/1/2012 at 04:32 (4,252 days old) by JenD (Michigan )   |   | |
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washer111 - I can turn the tap on and it gets pretty hot reasonably fast. I bought Cascade professional for food service today and ran a load. Worked very well. |
Post# 621713 , Reply# 47   9/1/2012 at 05:28 (4,252 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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"Still don't understand your squeamish issues with the Almond color"
Because Almond was invented for the express purpose of concealing - up to a point - a film of kitchen grease and dust. By the second half of the 1970s, when the color was introduced, housekeeping was falling by the wayside in many homes, in favor of two-career households. Almond was considered to stay "clean-looking" longer than other colors. I don't particularly care for "clean-looking." I like clean. So, that's my frotz about Almond. |