|
Thread Number: 42387
The Care and Feeding of Vintage Maytag Washers & Dryers |
[Down to Last] |  |
| Post# 623628 9/9/2012 at 14:03 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
Hi everybody!
It's been so long since I posted here that my account expired and I had to sign up again. It's been a busy year, but one fortunately filled with lots of vintage appliances and retro goodness! Maybe the best upgrade (certainly the biggest considering size) this past year was getting a beautiful vintage Maytag washer and dryer in chocolate brown. It goes so well in the pink laundry room, and when it arrived (just before New Years), I was so happy to say out with the old (new 2000s) washer and dryer, an in with the new (old mid-century) washer and dryer! One thing I noticed right away about this old set, compared with our former "new" set that was made in the 2000s, is that this vintage set is so easy to take apart and to clean! When it arrived we were able to get them both apart, vacuumed them out and polished them inside and out. (It was quite a cleanup job. The dryer was just full of lint and dust, matchbooks, pocket change, gum, you name it!) With the set that we had, it seemed to be a hair-raising half-hour operation just to get one of them open. I've been happily using these all year, and they haven't given me any trouble. There were a few little problems with them, though (more on that soon), and I'd love to know how to fix them. Also, what I'd really like to know is what I should do in my day to day use in order to keep them in tip-top shape. Anything that operators of vintage washers and dryers need to know? Here's a few pics to get started: 
| ||
|
| Post# 623632 , Reply# 1 9/9/2012 at 14:09 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 623633 , Reply# 2 9/9/2012 at 14:13 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Close up of Maytag washer control panel. One of the buttons has broken, but all the cycles work if you press them. (I haven't been able to get the broken one unstuck, so actually that cycle hasn't been tested.)
Do I need the whole panel replaced or can I get by with just a button, anybody know? Where can I find these parts? The washer is surprisingly powerful. I think it gets our clothes much cleaner than the newer models. It definitely spins with more force! I love it! 
| ||
| Post# 623638 , Reply# 3 9/9/2012 at 14:20 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Now the real question is the dryer, Maytag model CDE407 series 01. It works, but as far as I can tell only one of the cycles is putting out heat. That's the Auto Regular cycle. And when I do turn it on this cycle, it makes a squealy noise for the few several minutes. Is that normal? I have a short video of it and will link to it here in a second. The top front of the dryer (on the front face above the door) also gets very hot with a slight burning smell and I don't know if that's normal or not.
So fixing this is pretty much my biggest concern right now. Like I said, I've used it regularly for over 9 months already so it's not like it has been on the verge of breaking or anything, but I'd really like to see it fixed so that all the functions work. The only other thing about both of them is that they have what looks like a little bit of water staining on the top surface. It's small and you can only see it in some lights, where it looks like smudges -- you can see it in some of the pics. I tried everything to clean it and I suspect that the only real answer is a repainting. Or just living with it! 
| ||
| Post# 623640 , Reply# 4 9/9/2012 at 14:22 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 623642 , Reply# 5 9/9/2012 at 14:27 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
And here's the link to a movie of the squealy dryer in action...
CLICK HERE TO GO TO moderncleveland's LINK | ||
| Post# 623643 , Reply# 6 9/9/2012 at 14:28 (4,237 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E) | ||
Buttons:
The buttons are officially NLA (No Longer Available), though some parts houses might still have a set in stock.
Appealing to members here will be the best way to locate a replacement button; some members have a parts stash of pieces salvaged from machines too damaged to restore. You need to know that some controls use a different button than others, even though the button looks the same from the front. The difference is that some controls have vertical shafts, and some have horizontal shafts, meaning that the slot on the back of the button will be either horizontal or vertical. You'll be asked which you have. Also know that there is not currently any restoration process I'm aware of that will both restore whiteness to the buttons and retain or replace their lettering. You will probably just have to live with yellowed and worn buttons, unless you are really lucky and find a pristine replacement set. | ||
| Post# 623645 , Reply# 7 9/9/2012 at 14:37 (4,237 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Sandy, thanks for the super quick reply!
I was afraid of that NLA thing ... so members, I appeal to you all! These have horizontal shafts. I can live with the off-white color of the buttons. I found a trick that helps restore lettering on a lot of these appliances. When the letters are inset, you can pretty easily paint them and wipe off the excess and then they look completely brand new. We used this trick on our 1957 GE fridge. And keeping a stash of parts is a great idea! I run across damaged and broken sets and appliances all the time. And from now on, I'm going to save all salvageable parts and buttons for others who can use them in the future. Let's keep this stuff going!! | ||
Post# 623652 , Reply# 8 9/9/2012 at 15:07 (4,237 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
||
 "Also know that there is not currently any restoration process I'm aware of that will both restore whiteness to the buttons and retain or replace their lettering. You will probably just have to live with yellowed and worn buttons, unless you are really lucky and find a pristine replacement set." This, maybe? CLICK HERE TO GO TO DADoES's LINK | ||
| Post# 623653 , Reply# 9 9/9/2012 at 15:08 (4,237 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E) | ||
|
Lettering Trick:
Sorry, but that doesn't work on Maytag buttons. The buttons are not made the way you describe, with deeply-cut lettering that has been paint-filled.
I'd go slow on this set if I were you. I see some signs of hard wear, particularly that washer's control panel - that machine has done a LOT of hot-water washing, which promotes the control panel corrosion I see. Let the machines prove themselves over time before dumping any huge amount of money into them; you can still find another set of Maytag center-dials in good shape much more easily and cheaply than you can restore a set. | ||
| Post# 623812 , Reply# 11 9/10/2012 at 04:45 (4,236 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
DADoES | ||
| Post# 623814 , Reply# 12 9/10/2012 at 05:34 (4,236 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
|
moderncleavand
Your pair don't look to be in as great of shape as you make them sound. With a lot of work and studying, you might be able to revive them, but it will take some money and a lot of hard work. There's all kinds of information on here about how to do this, but you're going to have to do your homework.
It doesn't appear you're a paying member here and will most likely get less attention because of it. I don't know what's making that sound on your dryer, but if it's a dry drum bearing and that thing seizes you're screwed. No matter what it is, it shouldn't make that sound. HOH's are very quiet. The machine getting hot on the front and making burning smell is not normal. No dryer should do these things. You're going to have to do some electrical investigating to find out what's wrong with that timer. If you want my advice, quit using it now. Last thoughts. Painting the machines is not a good idea. You'll never get the shading right on the front of the machines again. And painting porcelain is never a good idea. It doesn't hold paint well. It will scratch off. Use some light rubbing compound on the porcelain to remove the stains and scratches. | ||
| Post# 623820 , Reply# 13 9/10/2012 at 06:29 (4,236 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
This it? | ||
|
Post# 623902 , Reply# 14 9/10/2012 at 13:05 (4,236 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham)) |
||
 | ||
|
Post# 623933 , Reply# 15 9/10/2012 at 15:19 (4,236 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
||
 | ||
|
Post# 623939 , Reply# 16 9/10/2012 at 15:24 (4,236 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
||
You're in Cleveland, the first place you can start looking for vintage parts is Modern Parts House in Parma, OH.
The set of buttons & switch set on ebay isn't exactly the same as yours, but replacing all the buttons with the ebay set will certainly solve the problem. Only a true purist will know the difference but you likely won't give it a second thought once you're standing in front of the machine holding your Pyrex cup of detergent and an armload of dirty clothes. Maytags are relatively easy to work on, a DIY repair manual is readily available (probably in Parma at Modern Parts) and if you're at all handy with tools, you shouldn't have any trouble. You can paint the properly prepared porcelain tops in cases of dire need, but extra care and gentle use would be required once finished. Center-dial Maytags as many call them are still fairly common and I'll bet a shiny nickel there's a lot of them still around Cleveland. One of our Cleveland appliance-friends is also a servicer and would know these machines like the back of his hand if you should require an experienced eye (or ear) to help get these back into good running order. Help for the willing is always free, good luck and welcome to the board!! | ||
|
Post# 623977 , Reply# 17 9/10/2012 at 17:56 (4,235 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
||
A few thoughts abut the dryer:
1. That dryer is quite rare. It is a 1975 or early 1976 production Halo of Heat with "Sun-glow" gold trim and the aluminum timer dial. The introduction of this trim only overlapped with the HOH dryers for about a year. By early 1976 ALL Maytag dryers were the big door "Stream of Heat" dryers. 2. The fact that is heating on only one cycle and that that cycle is one of the Auto cycles is a bit of a mystery to me. Those dryers had only one thermostat so if the thermostat were bad you would either get no hear on any cycle or LOTS of heat on every cycle. In that case it would be cycling on the high-limit thermostat. My first guess would seem to indicate to me that the timer is bad. Anyone else have any other thoughts? 3. The squealing sound could be any number of things. It could be the main drum bearing as was mentioned above but it also could be the bearing on the reduction pulley, a bearing in the motor itself or depending on the actual "squeal" could even be the sound of a worn, loose belt slipping on the motor pulley (which, if it is aluminum, could itself be worn and should be replaced). If it IS the belt squealing that could account for the burning smell IF the burning smell is like that of hot rubber. If not, see #5 below. 4. The fact the front is getting hot is COMPLETELY NORMAL for a Halo-of-Heat dryer. The heating element is in a "Halo" surrounding the loading door. The fronts of these dryers always get hot to the touch. 5. The burning smell you mention is most likely caused by a portion of the front drum seal that has deteriorated and fallen in the the front Halo shroud and is lying on or very near to the heating element itself. This is a VERY common problem with electric Halo-of-Heat dryers of this age. To replace this seal (and you MUST if it has deteriorated, it is a genuine safety issue) you have to pull the whole dryer apart which would be the opportunity for you to check/fix/replace/lubricate all of the other things I have mentioned. This post was last edited 09/10/2012 at 18:30 | ||
| Post# 623981 , Reply# 18 9/10/2012 at 18:02 (4,235 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas) | ||
|
It doesn't appear you're a paying member here and will most likely get less attention because of it. I wasn't aware of that policy here...... | ||
|
Post# 623992 , Reply# 19 9/10/2012 at 18:23 (4,235 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
||
|
| ||
|
Post# 623999 , Reply# 20 9/10/2012 at 18:34 (4,235 days old) by appnut (TX) |
||
 | ||
|
Post# 624005 , Reply# 21 9/10/2012 at 18:52 (4,235 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
CDE Maytag HOH Dryer The squeal is most likely a dry blower bearing, this would also account for an unusually hot cabinet front. MT HOH dryers had a steel motor pulley by this time so that is not the problem. The only heating on one cycle is either a bad timer or the timer knob is broken or the dial is miss assembled, MT had cheap plastic timer knobs that were prone to breaking, they could also be installed 180 degrees out of aliment. | ||
| Post# 624088 , Reply# 22 9/11/2012 at 01:07 (4,235 days old) by stan (Napa CA) | ||
not a paying member? | ||
|
Post# 624172 , Reply# 24 9/11/2012 at 12:21 (4,235 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
||
|
To add to Whirlcool's comments...
This is a public website and forum, not some private "club". Open to anyone and everyone who has an interest in, or questions about major appliances.
I also try to offer suggestions or help when I can and it doesn't matter if they're a "paying member" of not.
So I hope the info posted here has been helpful to you ModernCleveland.
Kevin
| ||
|
Post# 624173 , Reply# 25 9/11/2012 at 12:21 (4,235 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
||
 | ||
| Post# 624304 , Reply# 26 9/11/2012 at 21:45 (4,234 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
|
Ok people....
Some of you are making mountains out of molehills. I simply stated that one will most likely get less attention when they are not paying members. Maybe I should have said, One may get more attention if one is a "contributing" member. Then some of you might not have had your sense-abilities jarred. I didn't say they wouldn't get any attention if they weren't a paying member. It was a simple suggestion.
Also, if you'll notice, I gave "moderncleveland" quite a bit of advice. I give advice to non-contributing members quite often. I have watched in the past and contributing members seem to get more advice than non-contributing ones. When one contributes, one has more site functions available to them and will usually find the site more useful and informative. Contribution has it's perks. And I'm sure you all realize the bandwidth to operate this site probably isn't cheap. Lastly, I never mentioned anything about "policies". The webmaster makes the policies, not I. I'm sure if he has a problem with what I post on the site he will let me know. I feel for him; having to use a lot of his free time to watch over every thing we say. I have said some things on here in the past that were uncalled for and I have apologized profusely. "moderncleveland", if I have offended you in any way, I apologize. Is everyone happy now? | ||
| Post# 624324 , Reply# 28 9/11/2012 at 23:25 (4,234 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
|
Kelly,
You have always been a peacekeeper on the site, as long as I have been watching, while some have not. Many times they try to read between the lines unsuccessfully. I have a direct and to the point approach. I always have. If I'm really angry people will know it, but I will not stand idly by while people make accusations and twist my words. I took it when I was young, but I won't take it now. Thanks, Kelly. | ||
| Post# 624340 , Reply# 29 9/12/2012 at 02:11 (4,234 days old) by stan (Napa CA) | ||
|
Thread # 574194
was Brian's amazing post about a restoration he did on a Maytag washer. I would recommend seeing it to anyone wanting detailed info!
It should be posted in "Restoratins" with the others, it was a fantastic job! And by the way Kelly, I told him how much I appreciated his sharing it with us, at that time! | ||
| Post# 624560 , Reply# 30 9/12/2012 at 21:53 (4,233 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Wow!
First of all, thank you everybody for all the input and information and advice!
I sincerely appreciate it! I hope I haven't gotten in over my head with this coppertone duo. They are wonderful to look at and I do love them dearly, but as a few of you pointed out they are not exactly in mint condition and I'm thinking that this is what I should consider to be my starter set. The thought of a future with lighted buttons, lots of switches, avocado green and turquoise too ... I can see how this can be addictive! Marie (aka ModernCleveland) | ||
| Post# 624564 , Reply# 31 9/12/2012 at 22:25 (4,233 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
DADoES, never heard of retrobrite before. How interesting. This could be useful for all kinds of vintage appliances!
Malcolm, good eBay find. This is probably worth a swap for me. I think I need to focus on the dryer first and see if that's a dry bearing. Once that is taken care of, then maybe I will try to replace this panel. Kevin, the last two of both serial numbers is WW. Gansky1, it looks like this weekend there will be a scheduled field trip to Modern Parts House! I'm very interested in this Cleveland appliance servicer. Is he a member of this board? And how did you know I have my detergent in a Pyrex cup!? Mark, you really know your stuff! I think you're onto something about the timer, because I have been wondering about the timer. It went off on its own just fine last night, but I just went to check on it on another load I did just now, and it was done but the timer hardly moved (which is usually the case, it seems) so I had to shut it off myself. John may be on to something when he suggested that the timer was misassembled, because when we brought these home the first thing we did was take everything apart, all dials and panels and everything, and clean it all up. I wouldn't doubt that something was misassembled in the process of putting it all back together. The smell is very slight and, like the noise, is only in the very beginning. It's reassuring that the warm front is normal. I was afraid at first because I assumed it was overheating. I'm sure I'll appreciate the heat in the winter! John, you seem to be on to something when you suggested that the timer was misassembled, because when we brought these home the first thing we did was take everything apart, all dials and panels and everything, and clean it all up. I wouldn't doubt that something was misassembled in the process of putting it all back together. beekeyknee, I have a question about the Maytags in your profile picture. They look a lot like our models except more buttons and of course the tops of the panels are illuminated -- beautiful! What year/model are they? appnut, thanks for the reassurance. And thanks to your post, now I know that the color is called coppertone. Stuart, for years it was a dream just to have a real vintage set in matching colors. Now that that's a reality, I guess it's a dream to find a lighted set or a nice Lady Kenmore or the TOL Pushutton 906. (Wouldn't it be great if there was a vintage appliance museum?) But is scrud on the outer tub a result of cold water washing? Because when we got this one, there was plenty of what I think might be scrud (from the sound of the word) on there that had to be all cleaned off. I'm going to do some research next on dry blower bearings... but now, it's bedtime! | ||
| Post# 624565 , Reply# 32 9/12/2012 at 22:27 (4,233 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 624608 , Reply# 34 9/13/2012 at 04:29 (4,233 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
|
Hi, moderncleveland
The washer is an AA806 according to the label on the machine and it was made in Dec. 1979, probably one of the last if not the very last avocado 806 to come off the assembly line. Who knows, maybe the color was special ordered after the avocado trend died away. My parents ordered an almond colored stove after they had fallen out of style so the appliances in their kitchen would match.
It was suggested on here by one member that the AA was a mistake because Maytag automatics in avocado were usually labeled VA. Then another member suggested that maybe it was labeled AA because shading on front panels was dropped by the late '80's. It's also one of the last center dials off the line because in 1980 the dial was moved to the left-hand side. It's a mystery. I know the lack of shading made re-painting the cabinet a breeze. As for the dryer, it's a DE808 SOH from April 1980. They're both among the last of their kind. I have an A806 washer, series 0, from Oct. 1972 that I bought last Nov. that I was planning on rebuilding this summer, but an interfering water heater got in the way. I don't know if I'll have time to rebuild it this fall or not. The last thing I want to get is the matching DE806 HOH dryer to go with it. The reason I told you to quit using your dryer is that if the bearing is going out and it seizes, it can't be fixed. The bearing are NLA, but if you work on it before it seizes, it can be saved. As far as the rubbing compound goes, it can be used if you get the right grade and use good judgment, or so I have read on here before from more than one member. I'm sure they aren't all wrong. If you want to try and work on your dryer and are somewhat mechanically and electrically inclined, Thread Number: 28312 is one that comes to mind. Good luck. | ||
| Post# 624756 , Reply# 35 9/13/2012 at 20:10 (4,232 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Paint | ||
| Post# 624759 , Reply# 36 9/13/2012 at 20:19 (4,232 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Bad bearings
Brian, it must be wonderful to step into a laundry room where the lights are dimmed and these illuminated panels are lighting the room. Those Maytags are going on my "dream machine" list.
Thanks for the thread reference on the bearing. It looks like a little trickier than I originally thought. I already have taken it all apart to clean it so I know how to do that, and I have zoom spout oil (also have white lithium grease). I have a fear of damaging something in the process, so if I can find a local repair wizard I will call a pro. Because if a bearing in the drum or reduction pulley or even the motor is in need of oil, wouldn't it squeal like this the whole time? It only makes this noise in the first few minutes of working. And then it stops. And also, these machines had not been maintained much over the years so I'm sure they could use an oiling anyway. Would it hurt to open it up and oil away? | ||
| Post# 624811 , Reply# 37 9/14/2012 at 04:56 (4,232 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
|
Go to the forum archives and look up Thread Number: 32586 in the 2011 section. That might help with the thread number I mentioned yesterday.
The bearing wouldn't necessarily squeal all the time. It's a sinstered bearing and sweats oil. That's why it has wicking around it; for a reservoir. As the reservoir dries up the bearing slowly gets dry and can start to squeal. Your washer has one too. It's the spin bearing. As the oil in it dries up, the spin speed can slow down and the bearing can become worn. The forum archives and the super searchalator are your best friends. I think you have access to them. I know you have access to the archives. Not sure about the searchalator. | ||
| Post# 630068 , Reply# 39 10/7/2012 at 19:29 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
Time for an update...
FEster, that's a good tip. I'm of the opinion that nothing is impossible ... but it's always a matter of effort and priority.
Thanks to gansky1 for connecting us with your local appliance friend. He came by yesterday and was able to do a complete overhaul on both of them, and we learned a whole lot in the process. We learned about the badness of dryer sheets, and also learned about the wonders of Sud Saver models. I had no idea such things existed! Anyway, on to the updates. He started with the dryer, and discovered the first problem was a bad connection on the exhaust. 
| ||
| Post# 630069 , Reply# 40 10/7/2012 at 19:30 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630070 , Reply# 41 10/7/2012 at 19:31 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630071 , Reply# 42 10/7/2012 at 19:32 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630073 , Reply# 43 10/7/2012 at 19:33 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630075 , Reply# 44 10/7/2012 at 19:34 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630077 , Reply# 45 10/7/2012 at 19:36 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 630079 , Reply# 46 10/7/2012 at 19:41 (4,208 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
What's left...
So here's what we still have to do:
* Swap out the dryer motor (our appliance friend has one coming) * Touch up a few areas of paint * Test CLR on the porcelain top water stains (we tried Bar Keeper's Friend and a few other possible remedies) * Put the new Medium button in that retrobrite (hydrogen peroxide mix) and straighten it out just a wee bit when it goes back on | ||
|
Post# 630173 , Reply# 47 10/8/2012 at 02:23 (4,208 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
||
Hello Moderncleveland | ||
|
Post# 630182 , Reply# 48 10/8/2012 at 07:30 (4,208 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
|
Great Progress I looks like you are in good hands, in fact it looks like Bobs hand in the picture, LOL. If you need any parts that he cannot find we probably have them, he and I trade parts on a regular basis. Unfortunately both your MT washer and dryer were built in an era where MT was using a lot of Westinghouse motors and both of your machines got one. You may want to keep your eyes open for a good used replacement motor for the washer as well. I am sure that Bob will be able to keep your MTs running for quite a while longer, John. | ||
|
Post# 630188 , Reply# 49 10/8/2012 at 07:44 (4,208 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
||
|
| ||
| Post# 632424 , Reply# 50 10/17/2012 at 21:40 (4,198 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
One more thing Bob did that I forgot to mention. He 'hacked' the washing machine so that you can lift the lid when it's on and it won't shut off. Very useful -- and fun to watch!
Speaking of the washing machine, I've always wondered how the liquid fabric softener leave the cup and enter the wash water in the final rinse? I suppose I could just lift the lid and watch it happen now to find out, but in the meantime wanted to ask. How does it work? | ||
|
Post# 632452 , Reply# 51 10/17/2012 at 23:42 (4,198 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
||
Fabric softener cup
The sloping sides of the fabric softener cup are there for a reason. As the tub enters the spin cycle that follows the wash, the fabric softener is thrown outward by centrifugal force, rides up the sides of the cup, and through the slots along its top edge. As it passes through those slots it's slung against the walls of that little cavity the cup sits in and stays there until the spin cycle is through. Then as the tub comes to a stop, the softener runs down the sides of the cavity and falls though the hole at the bottom where it combines with the rinse water that is now entering the tub. I hope that answers your question. It really is a very simple system.
| ||
| Post# 633793 , Reply# 52 10/23/2012 at 18:46 (4,192 days old) by moderncleveland (Cleveland) | ||
|
| ||
|
Post# 633797 , Reply# 53 10/23/2012 at 18:55 (4,192 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
||
|
| ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
