Thread Number: 42594
Schweet Little Westinghouse Dryer
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Post# 626747   9/22/2012 at 08:36 (4,233 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
If this wasn't 220v only be all over it!

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Post# 626787 , Reply# 1   9/22/2012 at 12:20 (4,233 days old) by appnut (TX)        
If this wasn't 220v only be all over it!

appnut's profile picture

But Laundress, Toggles could come over and convert it to 110 volt operation for you.  I wouldn't be surprised in the original installation guide, it showed how to do just that.


Post# 626877 , Reply# 2   9/22/2012 at 18:08 (4,232 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

It's also made to run on 110. You use the low heat setting and the timer goes to over 2 hours.

Post# 626886 , Reply# 3   9/22/2012 at 19:08 (4,232 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Interesting

launderess's profile picture
But unless it pulls more heating power than my "vintage" Whirlpool portable (in Harvest Gold no less), don't see it being worth the bother.

Now if that Fridigare dryer linked to in another thread ran on 110v that would be aother story. *LOL*


Post# 626928 , Reply# 4   9/22/2012 at 21:31 (4,232 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

A 110 volt heating capacity is limited by the 15 A circuit to about the same heating capacity as your WP.

Post# 626956 , Reply# 5   9/22/2012 at 22:26 (4,232 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
That's Why One Has To Find A Vintage Frigidare Dryer

launderess's profile picture
From the 1950's or 1060's.

According to my copy of "Tech Talk Digest" for Frigidare automatic electric dryers of the period the 120v units ran at 1600 or later 1100 watts.

Plugged into a 20amp circut things should be fine, a bit warm and moist during the summer months, but we all have to make sacrifices. *LOL*


Post# 627096 , Reply# 6   9/23/2012 at 16:12 (4,231 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Are you sure that's not 1600 watts for the full load and not the wattage of the heater?

Post# 627104 , Reply# 7   9/23/2012 at 17:11 (4,231 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
It Says Here

launderess's profile picture
"Heating Units"
"Wattage at 115 volts"

"1600"


Post# 627105 , Reply# 8   9/23/2012 at 17:12 (4,231 days old) by Iowegian ()        

@Tomturbomatic:

I had the same question. If I had to guess, I'd say the motor would draw at least 250 Watts running, more on startup.


Post# 627107 , Reply# 9   9/23/2012 at 17:15 (4,231 days old) by Iowegian ()        

@Launderess:

That's right at 14 A just for the heating element. Doesn't leave much for the motor turning the drum...or the timer motor (which wouldn't use much, but cutting things that close...).


Post# 627110 , Reply# 10   9/23/2012 at 17:19 (4,231 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Don't Know When The "80%" Of Rated Circut Load

launderess's profile picture
Came into USA code, but have a sneaking hunch up until the 1970's or mid 1960's it wasn't a huge issue.

Have seen plenty of appliances such as vintage ironers that pulled >1500 watts for the heater which today would be sitting very near the window's edge for a 15amp circut.

Of course some ironers and other appliances got around this by using gas for heating but as they were unvented that is a huge no-no today.


Post# 627145 , Reply# 11   9/23/2012 at 19:20 (4,231 days old) by Iowegian ()        

@Launderess:

The machine specs could be conservative. It might run just fine depending on your home.

Would depend on the current-time curve of the interrupting device and the wire size and type of your branch circuit. #12 wire used to be common for 15A circuits, now it tends to be #14. But there are still plenty of houses built in the 1970s that haven't burned down yet in spite of their aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wiring. And/or Zinsco, Wadsworth and Federal-Pacific service panels...



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