Your machine is from the late Eighties, early Nineties. They changed the design of the backsplashes, slightly, to be consistent with the new GE "Corporate" design specs. I think it's a smart looking panel and yours looks like a very respectable MOL unit.

The scale on the bottom of your outer tub is perfectly normal for a well-used machine in a hard water area. It's very easy to clean with de-scaler. The bad news is that it sounds like your transmission will require replacing. GE trannys usually leaked oil when they were ready to sh*t the bed, but yours sounds like it's beginning to fail. FF's rarely struggle to agitate on any sized load and the noise you're hearing during the spin might be a harbinger of death. On the other hand, it could be that the spin brake is out of whack and engaging when it shouldn't. Are you avoiding a service call? You might want to save yourself the grief and the grime. Fortunately, trannies for Filter-Flo's seem to come up once in a while on eBay and some of the techies on this site may have one for sale. I'm told it's an easy job to replace them. The only thing is you'll have to identify your machine as either standard capacity or extra-large.

Other more service-knowledgeable members will weigh in on this so listen to them. Good luck and welcome!

Nice machine!

Where are you at in Indiana? I have a matching dryer, if you're interested.

I dunno, let me see if it's gas or electric, and maybe get a picture.

There were only two sizes of Perforated tub Filter-Flo's made, "Standard capacity" which includes V-12, 14 & 16 and was later called "Large Capacity" and "Extra-large capacity " which began as "Heavy Duty 18" .

The components of there machines are largely interchangeable, but the wash-baskets, activators, mini-baskets, outer tubs and transmission assemblies are available in the two different sizes. I suppose you could get away with rebuilding a transmission with a large activator post, but I wouldn't know how to do that.

.If you ran a load on gentle and the noise wasn't there, then you more than likely have your speed solenoid actuator arm misaligned, not allowing it to drop down far enough not to interfere with the rotating clutch cams. 

.In this picture the 2 small cams can be seen sticking out on either side of the round clutch drum above the motor. 

When the speed solenoid is in it's resting position or Regualr/Fast, springs pull the actuator arm down so as not to activate the cams. Basically it's OFF (just like in the picture). Select gentle and the solenoid is energized, lifting the arm from its resting position, upwards to make contact with the clutch cams and thus engage Gentle/slow. 

It's very hard to see, but when it's making that noise, look through the peep hole in the black motor yoke to see if the arm is up or down.

I hope this helps.

-Alex

.

Heavily covered? Not good.

It's also possible the transmission is taking on water internally, forcing the grease out. Either way, not good.

Best way is to find another washer with a good trans. GE's of that era are starting to rust through the outer tubs, so the trans is still good.

I would try using some degreaser like simple green and get all of that built up gunk out of there to see what's really going on. This way you can see if there is any fresh evidence of oil being blown around. 

Maybe the grease was there from a prior breakdown and the person that fixed it didn't bother to clean it up? 

.GE doesn't make it easy to see, but the solenoid is behind the motor, pointing towards the center of the machine.  

Follow those 2 wires branching off of the maim motor wiring harness back to it.

The noise I heard when mine was acting up was like someone rapping on an empty coffee can. Click, click, click.

I like my one-speed better in the sense that it is quieter than the 2-speed. Less to go wrong and yes, the repair guide warns NOT to change speeds while the motor is running. I guess it was too costly to put an interlock on the switch once the motor is activated to prevent it.  

Mark is correct as to why GE had these stupid and troublesome 2,3,4 and variable speed clutches in their washers instead a multi-speed motor. The irony is that GE is one of the woulds biggest electric motor makers, and every other washer maker made great performing washers without these clutches. The higher speed of the motor really wasn't necessary for good washer performance, in fact Frigidaire 1-18 washers always started their spin cycle on the low speed of the motor, and even had a smaller drain hose and always worked fine [ they did this to reduce the amount of dirty water that can be thrown back over the wash tub and threw the clothing as the machine goes into the spin&drain cycle. which turns the clean clothing into a dirt and lint filter ].

As I have said before you can change the speed selector on a GE FF washer back and forth from Hi to low and low to Hi while the motor is running all you want without harm to the clutch and I invite any of you to come do this on any of my GE FF washers.

You're on your own with that, I will defer to other experienced members who are better versed in a transbottomy's than I. 

It's not something I've had a chance to do, and dreading the day I have to. That gear oil has a very nasty smell and it can only get worse with prolonged exposure.

You might want to contact member "Eddy1210", he mentions in post #473202, that he has a few seals on hand.

Is the last style that GE used, it will fit either the standard or extra large tub washers. It would fit in your washer but you would have to use a different agitator from one of these last GE washers.

If I were you I would consider getting either a factory rebuilt transmission or a good used one, a new one should be around $100, used 1/2 as much. If you want to fix yours I would flush out all the old oil and metal particles before refilling and replacing the bottom seal. GE transmissions were notorious for leaking oil either at the bottom seal or the top seal into the clothing load  so the condition of the top seal should also be considered when refurbishing these transmissions, Good Luck  John.

After I sprayed mine down, I got out an old paint brush and went to town. Hitting every nook and cranny, dislodging anything that clumped and could retain moisture, the birthplace of rust.

That pics is like was my Ge after it's oil leak! your one  got a massive oil leak ! This  is a link I always post when someone talks about transmission or seals replacing, that is very simple and helped me alot while I had to change my lower oil seal, as said I learned GE FF  sooner or later tends to leak oil when seals get worn, it does not necessarily means that your tranny is getting trash unless it is the tub seal (not the boot) that went, that would let water getting in the transmission and ruin it...
From what you're describing looks like you might have a belt or  clutch issue but not exclude that tranny is a little  stuck  someway and motor is on effort, also  to do not exclude that maybe is stuck cuz  it got water inside and gears got rusted! Surely is  the fact it got an evident  oil leak!

Replacing a transmission on a filter is harder to expalin rather than do it actually but I know it sounds so at start, what you might meet during replacing would  be stuck basket  bolts from lime etc... as happened to me, it kept 3 days of continuos torching and pounding and a good amount of Wd 40 and Pb Blaster....but I managed, harder part will also be finding a good GE tranny and figure out the exact one you'll need for your model including spline for actiavtor spiral agitator and size, I found  some on ebay time ago but they all were not for my model (it was when I thought I had to replace it, I didn't have need luckily)......

A kind member now became a very good friend, Eddy, helped me alot and also sent me the spare seal I needed, I will never stop thanking him!

The  link I mentioned that helped me alot  also is about a Beaumark canadian washer which internally is exactly the same as a Ge Filter-flo as it was made by them.....

To note that if your washer will work with a new belt and you'll discover your tranny it is still good, you might also replace the seal from the bottom it will be more easy on a side but harder from another as it is very close in there, all you need is to remove pulley unscrewing the bolt, tear out oil seal and replenish with oil enough thick with a syringue or by pouring it very slowly,  dont remeber the right thicness needed but I fill rescue the info if you need it, I anyway suggest you to follow the way in the link so you will see how many oil it lost and it's left (it must not be completely full, little more than half gearbox), If you decide to do that from bottom be sure you'll have your machine on it's side with the bottow facing a little upwards

Good luck!

LOL
I'm getting sightless!

Anyway changing an oil seal is not difficult!

This is the part you need!

...are you sure the washer is totally leveled?  

There is no easy fix for this on a GE FF washer, but you may find it spins well with a load.

On WP built DD washers with the water filled balance ring the machine usually will vibrate with nothing in the tub but is actually smother with a load. In any case it is really not important if the washer is smooth without a load.

$50.00 on C/L