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Thread Number: 43370
Rinse aid question |
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| Post# 637721 , Reply# 1 11/9/2012 at 07:35 (4,185 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY) | ||
Not sure exactly - but something I was unaware of for years and just discovered a while back is that when you take the cap off of the rinse aid dispenser, there is a small dial with an arrow and numbers on it. This can be turned. The higher the #, the more rinse aid is dispensed and the more often it will need to be filled. At least that's the way it is on mine. I'm assuming the same applied for most.
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| Post# 637753 , Reply# 2 11/9/2012 at 09:47 (4,185 days old) by atomranch () | ||
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The cap on mine is screw on. No dial. | ||
| Post# 637784 , Reply# 3 11/9/2012 at 12:32 (4,185 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio) | ||
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It varies For me, with my GE Nautilus, when the liquid rinse aid dispenser worked, it held about 5-6 month's worth. It depends, to a great extent, on frequency of use. Lawrence/Maytagbear | ||
| Post# 637797 , Reply# 4 11/9/2012 at 14:01 (4,185 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas) | ||
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I think the dial for the rinse aid amount is on Maytag machines. We have this feature on ours. It came from the factory with the dial at the highest number and the dispenser would need refilling after about a week. We now have the dispenser at number 1 and that lasts about a month. | ||
Post# 637842 , Reply# 5 11/9/2012 at 17:26 (4,185 days old) by logixx  (Germany) |
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| Post# 637844 , Reply# 6 11/9/2012 at 17:49 (4,185 days old) by Rolls_rapide (.) | ||
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Are you sure that the dispenser is activating? Upper range models of dishwasher which are electronically controlled, tend to have the facility to deactivate the rinse-aid dispenser, for example, when using the multi-function "All-in-One" detergent tablets. | ||
| Post# 637867 , Reply# 7 11/9/2012 at 19:14 (4,184 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Post# 637926 , Reply# 8 11/9/2012 at 23:29 (4,184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Ours Has The Manual Dial Inside The Cup
When using DW detergents without built in rinse aids tend to crank the numbered dial up to "9" or so. However if using detergents with rinse aids added turn the dial down to "1" or "2".
Since one rarely if ever using the heated dry it is important to have the proper amount of rinse aid so things flash dry spottless. One fill usually is good for two months or more on "9". | ||
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Post# 638119 , Reply# 10 11/10/2012 at 18:51 (4,183 days old) by Logixx (Germany) |
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| Post# 639142 , Reply# 12 11/14/2012 at 21:00 (4,179 days old) by Rolls_rapide (.) | ||
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Asbestos My mother has an ironing board from 1969 with a white asbestos pad on the iron rest. Apparently white asbestos is okay if not disturbed. | ||
| Post# 639147 , Reply# 13 11/14/2012 at 21:33 (4,179 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 639992 , Reply# 18 11/18/2012 at 14:11 (4,176 days old) by Rolls_rapide (.) | ||
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Colour of asbestos /classification Actually, that is precisely how the UK categorises asbestos. There is white, brown and blue. Blue being the worst. | ||
| Post# 644295 , Reply# 19 12/5/2012 at 17:08 (4,159 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY) | ||
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For about two weeks now
Instead of putting rinse aid in my dispenser, I put distilled white vinegar and I was scared that it would leak but it hasn't leaked a drop. I have it turned to the highest setting and it works really well. Possibly not quite as well as regular rinse aid but close. I seem to remember reading vinegar is a good rinse aid so I thought I would try it.....
I AGREE with you about the Finish Quantum and powerball. Both seem to be the best but I don't like the way it makes the dishwasher sound. I have hard water and even still you can tell when the dishwasher is running it sounds like there's too much foam and the dishwasher is having to work harder.......But everything is rinsed well and results are good at the end.....I'd hate to think using it would shorten the life of a dishwasher. When I run out of my stash of institutional Cascade I think I'm going to start using one of the two | ||
| Post# 645611 , Reply# 21 12/11/2012 at 09:01 (4,153 days old) by mysteryclock (Franklin, TN) | ||
I have a Bosch DW w/ softener that was installed earlier this year and I also noticed that some things (mainly plasticware) were quite wet at the end of pretty much any cycle. This was especially true compared to our old KA TT model, which got everything bone dry. I do use Quantum tabs and Somat rinse-aid (best I've found so far) but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Everything still comes out clean and shiny, and hard items are almost always dry. But for some reason plastic stays wet...go figure. I just dab it off with a towel and deal with it.
I'm too happy having a built-in softener to take on our rock hard water to really complain! | ||
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Post# 645615 , Reply# 22 12/11/2012 at 09:13 (4,153 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie) |
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It doesn't surprise me that there's still rinse aid in the dispenser if you only wash 10-12 loads per month. I wash upwards of 14 loads per week and I fill mine about once a month. My LG's dispenser has a range of settings. Since I have mechanically-softened water, I have it set a the lowest (1) setting.
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Post# 645721 , Reply# 23 12/11/2012 at 16:45 (4,153 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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FoxChapel
If your dishes and the inside of the machine are still "wet" an hour after the cycles finish, two things come to my mind at once.
First what is the temperature of your final rinse water? If it is too cool it will cool down the dishes from a heated wash and you won't get enough of a "flash dry" effect that no heat drying depends upon. The other would be to increase the amount of rinse aid dispensed until things are where you wish them to be. IIRC most DW's do not dispense that much product into the final rinse so you can adjust the setting rather high and still not worry about consumption. For us the key test is to see if the machine is struggling with excess froth during the rinse, that indicates perhaps way too much rinse aid was dispensed. In light of the last bit have recently turned the dial on our Frigidare/Kenmore down to about "1" or "2" (cannot remember) for two reasons. The boilers are set to "winter" thus hot water out of the taps is >130F, and am using Cascade Complete (older STPP laden formula) which contains a rinse aid of sorts. | ||
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Post# 646142 , Reply# 26 12/13/2012 at 07:02 (4,151 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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In the USA 120F | ||
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Post# 646156 , Reply# 27 12/13/2012 at 08:45 (4,151 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 646192 , Reply# 28 12/13/2012 at 11:25 (4,151 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY) | ||
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103??
mine is set to 130......
I'm not sure about what harm vinegar could do to a dishwasher.......Honestly, I don't think any harm. I do know I've read many forums where people use distilled white vinegar as a rinse aid. Some pour it in when they hear the rinse start, some put it in the dispenser.... I admit I don't know if it will harm my rinse aid mechanism.....but it works REALLY well as a rinse aid........It also breaks down hard water at the same time in the inner workings of the dishwasher. I know my racks slide easier than they did before. I've used vinegar mixed with fab softener in my front load washer for YEARS. | ||
| Post# 646938 , Reply# 33 12/16/2012 at 16:02 (4,148 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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I'd never set my water heater below 140F just for the sole reason of preventing legionalla bacteria from growing.
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Post# 647089 , Reply# 34 12/17/2012 at 08:34 (4,147 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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My water heater has no storage tank. The heating chamber is fully flushed each time water is run. I occasionally raise the temperature temporarily for selected tasks. The display can show: set temp, input temp, output temp, heating chamber #1 temp, heating chamber #2 temp, flow rate, output percentage of full capacity. 
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| Post# 647100 , Reply# 35 12/17/2012 at 09:21 (4,147 days old) by MikeKLondon (London) | ||
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Water Heater HI DadoES looks like an interesting water system you have would love to know more it looks like its electric how many whats does it pull? whats the flow rate like at high temp? I see how you can take more of a risk with this type of system but 103f still sound very cool | ||
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Post# 647129 , Reply# 36 12/17/2012 at 12:04 (4,147 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Off-Topic -- water heating Electric, yes. It's a large-capacity, whole-house unit with four 7,200 watt elements, potential total 28,800 watts, which is 120a at 240v. However, the unit moderates its power consumption based on the load ... input temp, output set point, and flow rate. It doesn't reduce the flow rate if it can't reach the setpoint, the output just won't get to full temp. Running my kitchen faucet at maximum: Input approx 67°F Setpoint 103°F Flow rate 1.2 gpm (low-flow aerator) Output between 22% and 24% of full capacity Setpoint 140°F (maximum) Output between 55% and 61% (a few spikes to 67%) of capacity, with repeated drops to between 29% and 31%. Scalding injury would result from showering in 140°F water, so what would be the point of setting it to 140°F? 103°F is perfect for me. My dishwasher has internal heating so no need to raise it for that. Washing clothes is the only time I raise it according to what I want for the load, or on rare occasions for a whirlpool-tub soak. The unit produces heated water continuously, never runs out, so there's no need to run the temp higher for "reserve capacity." | ||
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Post# 647499 , Reply# 38 12/18/2012 at 20:24 (4,145 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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My house has 200 amp service. As explained above, the unit does not always run at 100% power. 24% is 6,912 watts. 61% for the 140°F example above is 17,586 watts ... a very large draw by any measure but still not maximum for the unit. I've seen it low as 8% to 15%. Regards to restriction against using more than one hot water tap at a time ... that's largely a fallacy. I've had guests running showers simultaneously with no issue. The unit can't selectively activate or deactivate water taps. Any hot water tap that's turned on will of course have water flowing out of it, at whatever flow-rate the aggregate household plumbing supports for multiple taps open, heated to the setpoint within the unit's ability to maximum capacity. It's not necessary to run every heated-water task at full-flow rate the faucet can provide. When I've checked out of curiosity, I find that I run my shower at average 1.2 to 1.5 GPM, there's plenty capacity to handle that even at an input temp below 40°F. | ||
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