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Thread Number: 43408
First time posting...1960's maytag, looks similar to A700's here |
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| Post# 638240 , Reply# 1 11/11/2012 at 13:30 (4,177 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
Welcome. | ||
Post# 638242 , Reply# 2 11/11/2012 at 14:02 (4,177 days old) by d-jones  (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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That looks like an A502 Highlander washer to me.
Mechanically speaking, it has a lot in common with its 700 series counterparts, and is generally considered a very reliable machine. After this many years of service you'll want to inspect all the rubber hoses and fittings you can reach and make sure they're still pliable. As they harden with age (as they tend to do) they'll be more susceptible to cracking and breaking. If the little tube that connects to the pressure sensing diaphragm on the fill level selector switch becomes brittle and breaks or no longer seals properly on the tube, the machine will stop whatever it's doing and resume filling until it overflows and you end up with water all over the floor. Thankfully it's an easy one to check. And while your at it have a look at the large hose that connects the outer tub to the top fitting on the little water pump. Whenever there's water in the tub there's water in that hose, so you want it to be in good shape. Fortunately both of the parts mentioned above are still available.
With a little effort and laying up of spares for future use you should be able to use this machine for a good long time, and folks on this blog are always ready to help with any questions you may have. The very fact that you chose to use this venerable old machine rather than scrap it tells me you'll be right at home here. | ||
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Post# 638340 , Reply# 4 11/11/2012 at 19:09 (4,177 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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I have that manual from 1975
It isn't bad and it has a lot of useful information in it, but the way it's presented can be a little confusing if you're not familiar with your particular machine. For example, your washer is an A502, but there isn't any one section of the manual that applies to the 502. The relevant data is spread throughout and intermixed with info that won't apply. The manual pictured on the left in the photo below is produced by Maytag and the layout is much more intuitive. It's broken down into sections based on the various models. I find both manuals to be useful, but the one by Master becomes much more useful if you have the Maytag manual to go with it.
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Post# 638366 , Reply# 7 11/11/2012 at 20:21 (4,177 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 The replacement belt you mentioned ... if that was the motor->transmission belt, did the Mr. get a genuine Maytag belt, or did he match the size to a "generic" belt? The belt in the case of Maytags of this design serves as the spin clutch and is required/intended to slip on the motor pulley until the basket gets spinning up to full speed. A non-Maytag belt doesn't have the proper surface coating, will "grab" too much and overload the motor. | ||
| Post# 638376 , Reply# 8 11/11/2012 at 21:03 (4,177 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
He's guessing it's a motor thing, like overheating.
The overheating motor is most likely due to worn, gunked up, stuck, or completely missing motor carriage rollers. True 2 belt Maytags don't have a clutch. The transmission belt and spring loaded sliding motor carriage IS the clutch. It's imperative that all of these components are operating correctly and smoothly.
Overtime, the rollers and motor carriage surfaces get gunked up, rollers developed flat spots (rollers only rotate about half a turn between agitate and spin cycles), rollers break, loss of polylube on the rollers and carriage, and weak or broken springs on the motor carriage occur. The motor pulley is usually gunked up with belt material since the belt slips on the motor pulley while ramping up to speed on spin cycles. Square glides now replace the round style rollers. Both designs are compatible with each other. Every Maytag that works its way into my collections immediately gets new belts (211124 pump/211125 motor), motor carriage glides, springs, and polylube (205000), motor and trans pulley cleaned with 98% rubbing alcohol, and pump lubed. Remove the pump belt and twist the pump pulley. It should turn very smooth and linear without hanging up. It's always best to lube the pump by removing the flat headed screw in the center of the pump and shooting some Zoom Spout turbine oil in there. This keeps the wicking wet with oil, which seeps oil into pump bearings. It's possible to have motor issues, but the above is the most common culprits that cause the motor to overheat. With the exception of Zoom Spout oil, get your parts from ebay. It's much cheaper than an appliance store. Trans and Pump Belts Spring/Glide Kit | ||
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Post# 638382 , Reply# 9 11/11/2012 at 21:13 (4,177 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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As DADoES mentioned, use of the correct belt is important, but assuming you used the correct replacement belt, you'll also want to make sure the motor is free to move back and forth on its little carriage. That carriage with its built in spring tensioners plays a critical role in allowing the belts to slip at the appropriate times, thereby(per the service manual) preventing the motor from having to absorb the starting impact and weight of a full tub. Beyond that I'm kind of stumped by the problem you're describing. The schematic diagram for your washer does show an overload protector in the motors circuit, and I have to assume it's self resetting once the motor cools down.
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Post# 638385 , Reply# 10 11/11/2012 at 21:16 (4,177 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Look at that! | ||
| Post# 638388 , Reply# 12 11/11/2012 at 21:27 (4,177 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 638393 , Reply# 14 11/11/2012 at 21:36 (4,177 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Just as expected, it also shuts down if a bunch of towels or pants get unevenly loaded as they spin, in which case once we redistribute the items it finishes just fine. | ||
| Post# 638394 , Reply# 15 11/11/2012 at 21:39 (4,177 days old) by Helen_Marie () | ||
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Thanks for the link, too, Dan! Oh, and thank you for the link. Nothing spells easy like click here. I already ordered the springs/gliders. | ||
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Post# 638433 , Reply# 16 11/12/2012 at 01:23 (4,176 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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I don't know if you're interested, but the Maytag Helical Drive service manual pictured above is available for download at Automatic Ephemera.
Here's a link CLICK HERE TO GO TO d-jones's LINK | ||
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