Kenmore tub grommet - belt drive washer question

Washer Newbie -

What is the exact model number of your machine? You said it is a 1984 80 series, correct? Is it a suds-saver or a non-suds?

If you don't know the model number, do you remember which pump you bought?

I ask because I want to determine how water is flowing. Suds models and most similar machines built before mid-1982 will flow water in two directions through the tub grommet. This in my experience increases the likelihood that the grommet will leak during the wash/rinse agitate phase, which sends water from the pump up through the grommet into the tub.

On the other hand, non-suds models built after mid-1982 do not recirculate water through the grommet, and it is used simply as a drain plug of sorts during agitation. Water does flow through it during drain however.

Your chances are probably marginally better of re-sealing a leaky grommet if you have a model that DOES NOT send water up through the grommet during agitation. I can tell you either way if you have a model number.

It would be a toss-up for me if this were my problem. Pulling the outer tub and replacing the 93553 grommet will almost always repair a leak there. Unless the baseplate is rusted to the point that the grommet cannot sit flat, a new 93553 is a gift to the machine once the old one starts leaking. These are NLA so grab one at Sears while you can.

Pulling the tub though may be difficult if the center grommet, which must be changed also, is stuck to the centerpost, especially if you goo'ed it in with POR-15. This will also at times cause weakened edges on the tub to break off where it meets the center grommet (I call this the tub lip). This makes a re-seal with a new center grommet difficult. I used to say impossible, until doing some repairs with 2-part epoxy at weak points.

If you know your tub doesn't leak from the center grommet (they almost always do at some point, at least the later production models) I would try sealing the old 93553 first, but not expect 100% success. If that works, cool, stop there. If not, proceed to pull the tub, replace the 93553 grommet AND the center grommet, seal the centerpost down lower with POR-15 now that more of it is exposed, and re-assemble, knowing that the tub may need some work prior to completion of the project.

If you do decide or need to pull the tub, let us know as I have some removal tips I'll share at that time.

Gordon


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Post# 638648 11/12/2012 at 21:44 (4,179 days old) by washer_newbie ()
Checkrate/Likes Can I replace the tub grommet on a belt drive washer without removing the tub? s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/PD_002... CLICK HERE TO GO TO washer_newbie's LINK

Post# 638857 , Reply# 1 11/13/2012 at 19:47 (4,178 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)
Checkrate/Likes *grommet replacement* You wouldnt want to do that.When replacing the grommet you want to put a coating of clear permatex silicone on it to seal against leaks then replace the center seal as well while your in there.

Post# 638909 , Reply# 2 11/13/2012 at 22:23 (4,178 days old) by washer_newbie ()
Checkrate/Likes Thanks for the help. I made a big mistake that may have ended this washers life. I really would have liked to have kept it going considering that it has given 30+ years of weekly use. I painted the centerpost with Por15 rust preventative. Got it all ready to go only then ti find it leaking from the tub grommet where the water exists via the water pump. It held water ok untill the water pump was started. My concern is if I lift the outer tub it I will break the rust and make it worse. The center post seal is also rusted. I just put in a new water pump and basket assembly with clutch and brake. I have all the seals needed for the job. I'm just not sure if I should keep going and take out the outer tub. It may do more damage. If I just put silicone glue around the tub grommet would it hold?

Post# 639003 , Reply# 3 11/14/2012 at 08:56 (4,177 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes *Kenmoreguy64* Ask Kenmoreguy64, he's our resident WP/KM belt drive guru. Dave

Post# 639061 , Reply# 4 11/14/2012 at 14:47 (4,177 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)
*This post has been removed by the member who posted it.*

Post# 639064 , Reply# 5 11/14/2012 at 14:56 (4,177 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)
Checkrate/Likes Washer Newbie - What is the exact model number of your machine? You said it is a 1984 80 series, correct? Is it a suds-saver or a non-suds? If you don't know the model number, do you remember which pump you bought? I ask because I want to determine how water is flowing. Suds models and most similar machines built before mid-1982 will flow water in two directions through the tub grommet. This in my experience increases the likelihood that the grommet will leak during the wash/rinse agitate phase, which sends water from the pump up through the grommet into the tub. On the other hand, non-suds models built after mid-1982 do not recirculate water through the grommet, and it is used simply as a drain plug of sorts during agitation. Water does flow through it during drain however. Your chances are probably marginally better of re-sealing a leaky grommet if you have a model that DOES NOT send water up through the grommet during agitation. I can tell you either way if you have a model number. It would be a toss-up for me if this were my problem. Pulling the outer tub and replacing the 93553 grommet will almost always repair a leak there. Unless the baseplate is rusted to the point that the grommet cannot sit flat, a new 93553 is a gift to the machine once the old one starts leaking. These are NLA so grab one at Sears while you can. Pulling the tub though may be difficult if the center grommet, which must be changed also, is stuck to the centerpost, especially if you goo'ed it in with POR-15. This will also at times cause weakened edges on the tub to break off where it meets the center grommet (I call this the tub lip). This makes a re-seal with a new center grommet difficult. I used to say impossible, until doing some repairs with 2-part epoxy at weak points. If you know your tub doesn't leak from the center grommet (they almost always do at some point, at least the later production models) I would try sealing the old 93553 first, but not expect 100% success. If that works, cool, stop there. If not, proceed to pull the tub, replace the 93553 grommet AND the center grommet, seal the centerpost down lower with POR-15 now that more of it is exposed, and re-assemble, knowing that the tub may need some work prior to completion of the project. If you do decide or need to pull the tub, let us know as I have some removal tips I'll share at that time. Gordon

Post# 639101 , Reply# 6 11/14/2012 at 19:16 (4,177 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)
Checkrate/Likes *tub re-sealing* The only reason you replace a drain grommet is because it is ripped between the drainhole and manifold trap.Other than that you simply scrape the rust build-up off the grommet flange and do the same to the underside of the drainhole of the tub then apply a coating of clear silicone to both and reinstall the tub and it will never leak there again.I have done hundreds of these this way over the last 30 plus years on all the rebuilt whirlpools I have sold.I would scrape down the centerpost pull the tub and replace the centerseal.If the tub lip is corroded and most of them are apply a coating around the outer underside of the seal with the silicone then once the tub is bolted down apply a coating around the tub lip and a small amount on the top of the seal where it meets the centerpost and that seal will never leak again .That non flowing silicone stuff hardens on there and lasts forever.

Post# 639140 , Reply# 7 11/14/2012 at 20:59 (4,177 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)
Checkrate/Likes 1 Newbie - While I understand and largely agree with the comments made directly above, if you're doing this work for the first time, and want to pull the tub from the machine just once, your chances of success are better with a new grommet. If they're only 8-bucks, all the more reason as far as I see it. I have installed new grommets in at least half the machines I've serviced. However, I was not running a business, I was doing a hobby. I did this because I never wanted to hear from these customers again, unless they wanted to buy another washer, and the new grommets are much more forgiving and will seal more surely than a used one without using sealer in the grommet area. If you look at the picture on Sears' site, the sealing surface is very sloped. It is this way for compression reasons under the tub. A tub will compress this surface and seal all-around, like pressing your face up to a glass window, even when there is some deformations and corrosion on the tub. Depending on the detergents, water, and chlorine used on the old grommet, some of them come out of machines nearly flat. Those that were flat and feeling a bit dried from bleach were the first ones I replaced, leaking or not. If you don't want to work with sealer and are ok with the 8-bucks, I'd buy the new grommet. Gordon This post was last edited 11/14/2012 at 21:57