Thread Number: 4355
Guys I have a problem
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Post# 99700   12/24/2005 at 13:06 (6,690 days old) by automagic ()        

Hey everyone, I have been having a ton of fun with my 1-18, but I have a small problem. The hot water will not turn off fully. I just did a hot load, once it started washing hot water still dribbled out of the jet circle. I didn't think anything of it, till the machine stopped and the water did not. The timer is in the off position, but hot water is still dribbling out. I turned it off manually at the spout. What do I do, how do I fix this?
Thanks
Donnie





Post# 99701 , Reply# 1   12/24/2005 at 13:22 (6,690 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)        
not to worry

christfr's profile picture
sounds like a bad water inlet valve on the hot side. the little rubber disc has pooped out.. you can either find a rebuild kit or just replace the valve pair. easy fix dont fret over it.. there are many universal valve assys out there that will work just fine some parts stores might still have the orig.. dont worry i have done lots of valves its an easy fix

Post# 99704 , Reply# 2   12/24/2005 at 13:31 (6,690 days old) by automagic ()        
You made my Chirstmas

Thanks for the advice Chrisfr!! Quick follow up question, where do I find universal valve assys? Can I go to the Home Depot for something like this?
Thanks
Donnie


Post# 99705 , Reply# 3   12/24/2005 at 13:43 (6,690 days old) by automagic ()        
2nd follow up question

Do I have to open up the whole machine to fix this or is it something that that will just pop in place?
Donnie


Post# 99707 , Reply# 4   12/24/2005 at 14:02 (6,690 days old) by christfr (st louis mo)        
not the depot

christfr's profile picture
get the mod # off the back of the machine and call your local appliance parts store or go on line and do some surfing. use the model # and try a search first. if that fails start looking for universal valve sets. there is a place called repair clinic on the web or parts select that you can try or contact dave at www.DavesRepair.com... he should be able to find you a set that will work just fine. all you have to do is slide the machine out and on the back side youll see where the hoses go in, thats where the valves are. there should be a screw that holds the plate on. it all comes out the back side. just remember to unplug the machine so there is no risk of shock. get the new valve set and then remove the cover on the back of the machine and youll get the idea. youll have to unattach the inlet hoses and then remove the cover then unattach the fill hose and unplug the two wires at each valve. then just reinstall everything on the new valve. just take your time and youll be fine

Post# 99708 , Reply# 5   12/24/2005 at 14:08 (6,690 days old) by automagic ()        
Your the best!!

Thanks for you help Christfr
Donnie


Post# 99812 , Reply# 6   12/25/2005 at 09:30 (6,690 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Donnie, yes a bad water valve is a very common problem in all washers no matter the brand or when they were made.

What I would do is remove the valve from the washer and take it to any good appliance parts store so they can match up a generic version of the valve. The original most likely will not be available, but a generic will work just as well.

It's very easy to remove a Frigidaire water valve.

1. Pull the machine out and unplug it and remove the two fill hoses.

2. Remove the screw from the water valve mounting bracket, then pull the bracket out from the bottom. It's probably hinged on the top with metal posts that pull out.

3. Remove the wires, since there are two sets of wires and they have to go back together in with the same set you might want to tape each of the two sets together so you remember which is which.

4. Remove the inlet hose clamp and hose.

5. Remove the screws that attach the valve to the bracket.

Replace in the reverse order. If the holes in the new valve don't line up exactly in the bracket that is OK, you might have to retrofit it slightly, I do this all the time.

These pictures might help...


Post# 100492 , Reply# 7   12/29/2005 at 11:15 (6,685 days old) by automagic ()        
Thanks Robert

Robert thank you for the instructions and the diagrams. I went out of town the day after Xmas and just got back. I still need to get to the parts store. I'll let everyone who how the repair goes...
Donnie


Post# 100886 , Reply# 8   12/31/2005 at 05:42 (6,684 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
Water valve

If you're lucky, you may be able to avoid replacing the water valve at all. Check that the filter screens are installed in the inlets. If they are missing, or have holes in them, detach the solenoid on the hot side. There will be rubber diaphragm under that. There will be a center hole where the plunger inside the solenoid drops down AND a hole on side of that. That side hole allows water pressure to build up when the plunger drops and assists in closing the valve. if the side hole gets blocked with a bit of debris, the diaphragm will have difficulty closing. I ran into this problem on a Maytag I dealt with once.

Post# 100892 , Reply# 9   12/31/2005 at 07:26 (6,684 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Robert

jetcone's profile picture
How on earth did you get your hairy hand into that factory GM photo?

Post# 100899 , Reply# 10   12/31/2005 at 09:13 (6,684 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
ooooooh it's cold in here.

toggleswitch's profile picture
Do I feel the *WHOOSH* of a back-handed (knuckle-sandwich) b****-slap coming?

Post# 100926 , Reply# 11   12/31/2005 at 13:12 (6,683 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        
How on earth did you get your hairy hand into that factory G

unimatic1140's profile picture
Ohhhh that's it mister, one more crack like that and I'm not holding back that's for sure!


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