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Thread Number: 43834
MAYTAG LSE7806ADE stacked washer problem |
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| Post# 644411 , Reply# 1 12/6/2012 at 04:32 (4,158 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
Sounds like you have a blown fuse at the minimum or a bad lid switch assy and fuse. The lid switch assy has two switches in it and both have to agree on if the lid is open or closed. Any disagreement and the fuse is blown. Sometimes the fuse can blow if you have funny power, ect but not often. The fuse hides behind the washer front panel on the left side. To get to the lid switch assy, you have to slide the washer out a bit and then pull the front panel and lift the top of the washer. The fuse, when blown, will inhibit fill (and wash) but will allow spin/drain.
RCD | ||
Post# 644459 , Reply# 2 12/6/2012 at 08:32 (4,158 days old) by Kenmore71  (Minneapolis, MN) |
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| Post# 644529 , Reply# 3 12/6/2012 at 12:13 (4,158 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
a quilt set to wash just before she went to work-came home t | ||
| Post# 644739 , Reply# 5 12/7/2012 at 12:25 (4,157 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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It couldn´t be it...
I beg to differ. If you were to actually read the schematic (which is usually taped to the inside of the washer cabinet on the right hand side...), you see that the fuse is in between the water walve and the pressure switch. This will kill the water fill, thereby effectively killing the wash cycle, but will not kill power to the motor itself. SO, you can still spin out the washer. I've repaired >just a few< of these for this issue...
The stack units (and older top loads with the lid switches and fuse combined on the black holder) were wired differently than, say, the LAT models with the white sealed switch and fuse assy...
RCD 
This post was last edited 12/07/2012 at 12:44 | ||
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Post# 644814 , Reply# 6 12/7/2012 at 18:54 (4,156 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT LSE7608  Andy is correct, the fuse was only in the fill valve circuit, MT also did the same thing on a lot of 1990s regular TL washers. These washers had a second lid switch that was a check on the operation of the main lid switch so if the contacts would ever stick closed the 2nd CS would create a direct short and take out the tiny fuse which then keeps the washer from ever filling again until you call the repair guy and have it fixed.
This STUPID system was used to get a UL approval on MTs washers because the spin brake could not stop the washers tub fast enough to meet the newer stricter requirements even though the machine still did not stop any faster and if the lid switch stuck in the closed position the washer would still spin with the lid open and rip your arm off, LOL. MTs slow brake is also why when MT introduced the electronic stack machine in 1986 that this machines washer lid would lock because it was considered a new model and could not be grand fathered in.
When ever we run into this problem we simply bypass the fuse and remove the 2nd CS and the washer will work the same way including the out of balance function of the lid switch, we have made this modification at least 200 times. MT in the later 1990s put in a more effective brake and also eliminated this halfa..ed system of an extra lid switch, this was just one of the reasons that MT lost out to WP in the mid 1980s as the most reliable washer. | ||
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Post# 644844 , Reply# 7 12/7/2012 at 20:45 (4,156 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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John, thanks for the explanation about what that extra switch and fuse are for. Ben and I spent an afternoon trying to figure out what the heck that stuff was there for and never came up with a good explanation. Now that I know that I my just wire around it as a prophylactic measure whenever I am cleaning up or working on one of these machines.
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| Post# 644927 , Reply# 8 12/8/2012 at 07:32 (4,156 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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Cool | ||
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Post# 644979 , Reply# 9 12/8/2012 at 10:23 (4,156 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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