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Thread Number: 44278
GM Frigidiare 1-18 washer |
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Post# 650695 , Reply# 1 1/2/2013 at 22:23 (4,129 days old) by GadgetGary  (Bristol,CT) |
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Leaking 1-18 | ||
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Post# 650786 , Reply# 2 1/3/2013 at 13:21 (4,128 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 650818 , Reply# 3 1/3/2013 at 16:45 (4,128 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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I think you also should have a repair manual handy. I think you can download one off the site here, if not I can .pdf it to you. Also do a search on the site and check out (rollermatic)'s posts on this as he did this procedure a few years ago. Also, please ask us all kinds of questions so we can help you along if need be. | ||
| Post# 651416 , Reply# 5 1/6/2013 at 14:04 (4,125 days old) by treeman () | ||
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So I'm down to the outter bellows and find that I need pliers #12071 to get the snap ring off. Where can I get the pliers? | ||
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Post# 651437 , Reply# 6 1/6/2013 at 16:55 (4,125 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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Alot of people have removed the snap ring(s) with the use of a c-clamp. This procedure must be done carefully so that you don't bend the tub lip that the bellows seals to. Also, you could try one of these jar openers (pictured below) they look a whole lot like the bellows pliers do, minus the knotches that are cut into them. 
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Post# 653197 , Reply# 7 1/13/2013 at 23:21 (4,118 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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Bump | ||
| Post# 654526 , Reply# 8 1/19/2013 at 16:45 (4,112 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
that main tub seal is still
available at part select.com. i bought one in 2009 for my 1-18 and a complete thread depicting the restore of that machine is on this site somewhere in the archives under my username "rollermatic". again in 2009 sometime.
the part sells for around 45 bucks if i'm not mistaken. i have the part number in my files, can dig it out if needed. e mail me direct if you like. those pliers are available thru mark michaels, i believe he is called "simplicity" on this site. i have his direct e mail if you like. i have restored 4 rollermatics and one 1-18 in the past 5 years and have never needed those pliers. i used channel locks to open the clamps and a series of wooden dowel sticks, also depicted in threads on this site to put them back on and lock them. mark was asking a very high price for those pliers and i thought it was ridiculous to pay that much when simple wooden dowel rods worked perfectly! but i think he is still trying to sell them for anyone interested. if i remember right he had bought a large lot of them. | ||
| Post# 654557 , Reply# 9 1/19/2013 at 18:55 (4,112 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
Hi Peter | ||
| Post# 654781 , Reply# 10 1/20/2013 at 18:50 (4,111 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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hi toploader!
hope ur havin a good winter! i pop in here once and awhile when i have something to add. usually frigidaire or kitchenaid related. place has changed a bit over the past few years hasn't it!
my latest dishwasher is a kdc-56 model a friend from this site named don gave me when he came to pick up that bendix tombstone i sold him this summer. it's all torn down gettin a complete rebuild, starting with a sump and outer tub bottom paint job and rust proofing as i always do to them. i also added that maytag 1960's style reverse rack last summer, think i posted it though. and that japanese mini 18" montgomery ward dishwasher last feb ( i know i posted a thread on it). and i bought a countertop dishwasher this summer just to see what it would do but after 3 months i put it in storage. i plan on doing some posts here later this year. ps 474733 is the part no. on that seal at partselect.com thanks pete | ||
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Post# 655899 , Reply# 12 1/25/2013 at 23:08 (4,106 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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This is quite odd. Tell your wife to cool it, you're working with a vintage treasure here :) There should be 1 inch deflection in the belt, no tighter than that or it will be hard on the pump bearings. I would run the belt off the pump pulley and try to determine if in fact the noise is coming from the motor or the pump area. Typically however, this problem means that the clutch needs to be cleaned and adjusted. Are you all the original owners of the machine? Do you know if the clutch has ever been serviced? | ||
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Post# 655932 , Reply# 13 1/26/2013 at 04:36 (4,105 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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Glad I could help you in finding the parts. Something is causing the overlimit switch to cut out on the motor. It sounds as if the weight with the water is too much for the motor. Any experts out there that know how to diagnose why the motor would be pulling too much current with a full tub as opposed to an empty one. Could something in the transmission be binding? Could it be a bad thermal cutout switch?
Hopefully someone will chime in with an answer. Patrick | ||
| Post# 655964 , Reply# 14 1/26/2013 at 09:30 (4,105 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
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| Post# 655972 , Reply# 15 1/26/2013 at 09:55 (4,105 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
 If you can make a video of it to show exactly what happens, maybe this would help some members making suggestions.
I never had this kind of problems in my 1-18 but I'm thinking that the water that leaked might have caused another problem. Maybe the spin clutch is stuck or too tight so when the spin starts, it puts too much strain on the motor. These can be adjusted, but then the high pitch noise you're describing could be related to it too. This noise happens just during spin? | ||
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Post# 655980 , Reply# 16 1/26/2013 at 10:26 (4,105 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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I just remembered that fellow club member Bob Orear had this same problem on his 1-18 about 2 years ago and cleaning the clutch fixed the problem. I'm willing to bet that the leaking water caused the clutch to gunk up and while it's been sitting idle for repairs this condition worsened. Simply put the clutch needs cleaning and is best done with the use of small wire brushes, a toothbrush and break parts cleaner. The manual details the disassembly and so do a number of threads here on the site. If you need help please let us know. | ||
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Post# 656384 , Reply# 18 1/27/2013 at 20:52 (4,104 days old) by joelippard (Hickory) |
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I'd like to see your video. From what you say it sounds like a clutch cleaning was definetly in order. Those clutch pads can be turned over and used on the other side as well as the break pad. As I'm sure you have found out the clutch is pretty easy to work on after you understand it. I have had good results with flipping the clutch pads over and placing the adjustment in the middle section, this is the stock factory setting I believe. | ||
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Post# 656409 , Reply# 19 1/27/2013 at 22:58 (4,104 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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| Post# 659262 , Reply# 21 2/9/2013 at 18:06 (4,091 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660222 , Reply# 23 2/13/2013 at 22:07 (4,087 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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