Thread Number: 44466  /  Tag: Small Appliances
KitchenAid Burr Coffee Mill KCG200 (aka A-9)
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Post# 653166   1/13/2013 at 19:08 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I just picked up one of these at Goodwill today for $14.99.  It's in working order but needs a thorough cleaning.  The previous owner may never have cleaned it.  The exit chute was packed solid and other parts are still caked with oily bean dust that, judging from the feel and smell was probably a regular diet of dark roasted Peets.


I've found a non-printable owner's manual and parts list on line but I'm having trouble removing the jar support/grind selector ring in order to clean it and the burr grinder below it.  There's an acorn nut that I'm unable to loosen and remove in order to disassemble those components from the base.  The entire burr assembly rotates and there's no way to hold it in place to remove the nut.


Is the spindle the nut screws onto supposed to lift out along with the jar support?  It's stuck and so am I.


Here's a picture of the nut and the caked-up jar support that needs to be removed in order to thoroughly clean it.  The owner's manual has a drawing of this assembly but the nut looks more like a nub, and it shows the spindle being lifted out with just two fingers gripping the nub.  It doesn't seem inclined to lift out for me in any remotely similar manner.


Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Post# 653182 , Reply# 1   1/13/2013 at 20:50 (2,847 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)        
Try this before you take it apart...

Grind a bag of rice through it. The rice will come out very dirty then will be totaly white at the end. Then run a hand-full of coffe beans through before you grind for drinking. This works every time I do it.

Good luck,

Post# 653183 , Reply# 2   1/13/2013 at 20:56 (2,847 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Can you stick a screwdriver or similar blunt instrument into the gap between the "dome" and the burr to keep the burr from moving?

Is that the "Proline" model that sort of looks like a miniature mixer?

Post# 653189 , Reply# 3   1/13/2013 at 21:45 (2,847 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        
If its like the A-9

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There should be a set screw for the grind selector ring 180 degrees from the outlet (on the back).

Remove that screw and twist the grind ring off. You will then be able to clean out the oily bean curd and start over. These "heritage" models had a tendency to clog when oily, flavored coffees were milled frequently. Once cleaned up, it should be fine.

Post# 653190 , Reply# 4   1/13/2013 at 21:46 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I did try to wedge a screwdriver in there to keep the burr assembly from moving, but the acorn nut wouldn't budge.


Here's a picture of my model.  It's a revival of the original 1937 vintage A-9 that was manufactured by Hobart.


From what I've seen on line, I got a pretty good deal on it.


Chuck, thanks for the rice suggestion.  I'll definitely use that cleaning method if I can't get the grinding mechanism disassembled.



Post# 653191 , Reply# 5   1/13/2013 at 21:49 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Here's the exploded view showing the acorn nut and parts below it that I'm trying to remove but curiously, it doesn't show the spindle (or whatever component) the acorn nut screws onto.

Post# 653192 , Reply# 6   1/13/2013 at 22:30 (2,847 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

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On the original models, if you remove the screw on the back (#20 in the diagram) you can then turn the black grinding hopper all the way out. Then you can get a vise-grip around the lower burr to hold it stable. From the drawing it looks like the replicas are the same design.

Post# 653196 , Reply# 7   1/13/2013 at 23:12 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Yes, I removed the screw #20 which allowed me to turn the hopper (grind adjustment ring) and separate it from the lower body, but there's still not enough room to get anything like pliers, channel locks or vice grips in there.  I don't know how they expect you to remove the acorn nut, which is why I suspect that whole assembly should lift out along with the hopper, but I can't get it to budge. 


I've attached a link to the owner's manual that I'm unable to print.  If you scroll down to the Care and Maintenance section on page 11 of the guide, you'll see the instructions for removing the burr shaft assembly from the motor housing, which advise simply to "lift" it out.   The images of the grind adjustment ring don't show an acorn nut, which serves to make the whole process even less clear.  Perhaps the vice grips need to be used on the acorn nut vertically to pull the burr shaft assembly out.  Once cleaned, it might lift out more readily, although I could probably use Chuck's rice routine going forward if I could clean up the residue thoroughly this first time.


By the way, whether you search for the model A-9 manual or model KCG200, this same document is what comes up.


Post# 653198 , Reply# 8   1/13/2013 at 23:23 (2,847 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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You'll have to pry it out. The acorn nut is only for adjustment of the lower burr height against the upper burr ring attached to the grind selector ring. Two large flathead screwdrivers should work.

Post# 653199 , Reply# 9   1/13/2013 at 23:25 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Thanks Greg!  So I can pry under the "finger guard" that the acorn nut sits on top of?  And would I want to tighten down the adjustment ring before I start prying?

Post# 653200 , Reply# 10   1/13/2013 at 23:31 (2,847 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Carefully, but it is attached to the lower burr mounting ring #7. Not sure on these newer models if that is screwed directly to the motor shaft though. Did you remove the bottom plate to see if you can hold the motor shaft from there?

Post# 653201 , Reply# 11   1/13/2013 at 23:33 (2,847 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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If you have the black ring #3 off, can you hold the lower burr ring by wedging it from turning and then try the acorn nut again?

Post# 653203 , Reply# 12   1/13/2013 at 23:54 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Yeah, already gave it a try with ring off and wedging.  I'll remove the bottom plate tomorrow and see if there's a way to get at the motor shaft from there, and will report in with my findings.

Post# 653205 , Reply# 13   1/14/2013 at 00:43 (2,847 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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It sounds like the motor shaft is keyed to accept the lower burr assembly, and that it's a slip fit. It's probably got debris and/or corrosion on the shaft that has resulted in the lower burr assembly getting locked onto the shaft. I'd try lifting the lower burr assembly out with the aid of two flat screwdrivers gently prying it up. You might be able to rock it loose.

This is just my impression from looking at the drawing, the manual, and the other comments. As usual, be careful not to overdo the prying.

I'm guessing that the acorn nut does not screw onto the drive shaft, but rather onto the lower burr mounting plate. After you remove the lower burr assembly it might be possible to remove the nut. It's also possible it's a left hand thread, which could explain the difficulty in removing it now.

All the above is just educated guesswork. Looks like a cool grinder, although the Pro models are even more intriguing (they look like miniature KA mixers and cost almost as much!).

PS-I was able to print the manual you linked to just fine. In fact I made a pamphlet copy. I can snail that to you if you like.

Post# 653206 , Reply# 14   1/14/2013 at 00:50 (2,847 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Looking back at your photo, it doesn't look like you pulled the adjustment ring and upper burr plate off the grinder. I think you need to do that before trying to get the lower burr out. It should just lift out after unscrewing the adjustment ring a few turns.

Post# 653207 , Reply# 15   1/14/2013 at 01:05 (2,847 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Thanks Rich.  I agree that there's likely built up debris cementing the upper assembly into the lower one.  All the more reason to take it apart and clean it.  Good call on the possible left hand thread. 


I'm betting this thing was a gift or that the previous owner was somehow unaware of just how much these grinders cost new, otherwise they'd not have been so quick to toss it out.  They clearly didn't appreciate it enough to take proper care of it.


I don't know why the manual won't print for me.  I click file/print and nothing happens.  It doesn't even bring up the printer's menu.  I'm suspecting an automatic update from Firefox yesterday that isn't yet compatible/communicating with my printer.  I'll give it a few days and see what happens.

Post# 653209 , Reply# 16   1/14/2013 at 01:34 (2,846 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Ralph, it's an Adobe Acrobat document, so all you need to do is to click on the little printer icon on the Adobe portion of the document header, and that should work pretty good, giving more options than just a browser File/print would. You can also download the pdf to your local computer and bring it up in Windows Explorer, which should bring it up in PDF/Adobe native mode.

Post# 653210 , Reply# 17   1/14/2013 at 01:37 (2,846 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Ralph, it sounds like you only need to unscrew the adjustment ring a few turns and it should lift off easily. When you turn it counter-clockwise, does it turn freely? Or does it feel like the threads are still engaged? Once you get the upper burr/adj ring off, then you should be able to see the lower burr/motor shaft assembly and that should lift off also. It looks to me that the acorn nut and chrome dome is there simply to direct the beans into the space between the upper and lower burrs. It's probably attached to the lower burr/plate, not to the motor shaft.

Post# 653228 , Reply# 18   1/14/2013 at 06:28 (2,846 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
I'll bet

that the previous owner ignored the warning about NOT grinding preflavored beans, and that it's all gunked up with sugar, etc.

Nice catch, anyway. This revival version was on the market for only a little while.


Post# 653280 , Reply# 19   1/14/2013 at 12:45 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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The picture doesn't capture it, but yes, the ring is loosened and separated from the lower housing but the finger guard is just barely larger than the opening in the bottom of the ring, so it can't be lifted past it.  If the ring could get past the finger guard, I'd have been on my way and this whole thread would have been a before & after documentary.  I think the image of the adjustment ring in the owners manual document may show the type that was used on the original A-9 model.  That one probably did just lift off since it appears to be a one-piece ring/finger guard item.


It occurred to me while trying to fall to sleep last night that I could download and save the PDF file, then print it.  I was originally only wanting to print the pages with the cleaning instructions to have handy out in the shop, so that's why I didn't download the whole thing. 


I haven't bothered with the grinder again today.  It's too damned cold in the shop right now, but I'm hoping to get at it later.

Post# 653286 , Reply# 20   1/14/2013 at 13:37 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Rich Nails It Again!

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The acorn nut is a left-hand thread.  It came off like buttah!


I have the whole burr and hopper disassembled now.  Even the threads in the housing for the adjustment ring are caked with powdered coffee.  I took the coarse brush that came with my Cuisinart Grind & Brew to the burr and it worked well, but it's a tedious process.  I decided I should stop and grab the camera to take some "before" pictures, so will be uploading later.


Also, there was no download option offered when I tried to save the owner's manual document.  I instead right-clicked on it once it was open, it offered the print option and the printer window opened.  I'm printing it right now.

Post# 653289 , Reply# 21   1/14/2013 at 14:12 (2,846 days old) by Westie2 ()        

Yeah!!!  The help from members on here is the best.  Why I love AW.


Now waiting on the before and after pictures.

Post# 653345 , Reply# 22   1/14/2013 at 17:25 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Before I take the last of the pictures for posting here, there's one issue. 


The reassembly instructions say to tighten the adjuster ring until the grind mechanism "offers complete resistance."  The ring on my mill tightens all the way down, but the burrs still spin freely.  As a result, the settings on the ring are off, with the finest possible grind corresponding to the ring's "medium" mark.


When I removed the bottom plate to have a look at the motor, I noticed the bottom of the motor shaft has a slot in it for a screwdriver.  I'm wondering if this is the way to adjust the bottom burr higher so that it makes contact with the top burr and offers "complete resistance" when the adjuster ring is in the proper position to reflect the correct grind.


If anyone can confirm this and provide advice on how to proceed, a post would be appreciated.

Post# 653371 , Reply# 23   1/14/2013 at 18:41 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Here we go with the "before" shots.


First, the adjusting ring after being freed up from the motor housing:


Post# 653373 , Reply# 24   1/14/2013 at 18:44 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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The burr on the underside of the adjusting ring before I removed it.  The retaining screws are covered with residue.


Post# 653375 , Reply# 25   1/14/2013 at 18:46 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Inside the motor housing after the bottom burr assembly had been removed:

Post# 653377 , Reply# 26   1/14/2013 at 18:48 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Lower burr assembly (bottom view):


Post# 653379 , Reply# 27   1/14/2013 at 18:53 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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The other side (after I had used a brush on it).


I later realized that this is a two-piece assembly (duh, I had removed the pair of screws earlier) and that the top and bottom burrs are identical and interchangeable.  It was filthy in between these two components, and the most oily residue of all was on the lower portion inside the tabs that surround the burr.

Post# 653381 , Reply# 28   1/14/2013 at 18:56 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Here's almost all of the loose residue I removed during the cleaning process.  The bulk of it was packed inside the grind spout.  The only thing I had handy for scale was a dimmer switch knob.



Post# 653383 , Reply# 29   1/14/2013 at 19:01 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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The clean components.  The burrs cannot be cleaned with water.  Brushing only.  This was taken before I had separated the two pieces of the bottom burr assembly and was able to clean them more thoroughly.

Post# 653384 , Reply# 30   1/14/2013 at 19:02 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Inside the housing, waiting for clean parts to be installed.


Post# 653385 , Reply# 31   1/14/2013 at 19:06 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Back Together

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There's not much to see once everything is reassembled, so this shot was taken on the kitchen counter. 


It remains to be seen how well the mill performs since there is still the issue with the adjustment ring settings.

Post# 653387 , Reply# 32   1/14/2013 at 19:10 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I'm going to test it out with beans to grind for another recent Savers find:  A Vev-Vigano all stainless steel espresso pot.  Here's a shot of it before I cleaned it up:




Post# 653395 , Reply# 33   1/14/2013 at 19:50 (2,846 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Congrats again on reviving another find. I'm wondering where you do your shopping, though. Up here the Goodwill and other charity shops generally have only the cheapest dreck for sale. If it was ever a quality item, it's highly unlikely to appear in the charity used shops up here. There are probably exceptions, of course, such as Goodwill in tonier suburbs or neighborhoods, I just haven't found them yet... LOL... Not that I've looked very hard. Sometimes the aroma of the women's shoe section sends me right back out the door before even checking out the small appliances...

Post# 653422 , Reply# 34   1/14/2013 at 22:09 (2,846 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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This was a true Goodwill fluke.  I usually walk out of there empty-handed, particularly the store where I found this mill.  At a different one I've scored some deals on Corningware items and more McCoy Canyonware to add to the place settings I found some time ago at Salvation Army, but Savers seems to have less insider skimming going on than the other thrifts.


I'm not declaring this latest process a success just yet.  Based on how the adjusting ring is behaving, I don't think it will render a very fine grind.  I have a question in to KA's support staff and will wait to hear if they can offer any advice.  I'm not getting my hopes up, but you never know.  It seems to me that the bottom burr assembly is too low and needs to be raised somehow, or perhaps spacers/washers placed under the top burr.  I don't know of any other way to achieve the "complete resistance" described in the owner's manual and thus get the markings on the ring to correspond to the desired grind.

Post# 653433 , Reply# 35   1/15/2013 at 01:22 (2,845 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Well, Ralph, I'm not sure the gears are ever supposed to contact each other - that could be disastrous if the machine was turned on, with one gear trashing the other.

If it were me, I'd tighten the upper ring until it won't go any more, don't worry about the burrs being able to be turned, then turn the ring back to the "M" setting and finish reassembling the machine. Then try a test grind at "M". I gather that should be the correct setting for a drip coffee maker. Try grinding some beans at that setting and see if the coffee comes out ok. That's my thought for the night.

Meanwhile this is spurring me to do a more thorough cleaning of the Cuisinart Thermal Burr Grind 'N Brew machine I've started using again (got tired of the finicky Keurig machine). I've been cleaning the coffee chute every weekend but haven't cleaned out the hopper and the upper burr plate for a while.

Which also reminds me - the KA you're working on has conical burrs. These are supposed to be superior to the flat burrs that most cheaper burr grinders have (like on the Grind 'N Brew). So it should give a superior result.

Post# 653510 , Reply# 36   1/15/2013 at 13:04 (2,845 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I think the burrs making contact might have been residual old-school instruction from back in 1937 when people actually read their owner's manual, but I agree it could have disastrous consequences even if the screw that locks in the ring's range of rotation hasn't been tightened.


Still, with markings provided on the ring and an indicator arrow on the base that they should line up with, it seems to me that if you want a fine grind, the word "fine" should be rotated into position above the arrow.  This isn't currently possible on my machine.


I'm doubtful that this machine could grind beans fine enough for a batch of Turkish, and that seems like an indication that something's not right. 


I'm still waiting to hear from KA customer support.


Regarding the Cuisinart, I don't recall ever seeing instructions about cleaning the hopper and burr plate.  Maybe I should check my literature again, or slap the DVD into my laptop?  So far, the maintenance I've been doing with the chute has been enough to keep the grinder functional for over three years, which is far, far longer than my first two machines lasted.

Post# 653833 , Reply# 37   1/16/2013 at 21:19 (2,844 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Well, I took a closer look at the hopper, and it does not hold either burr plate. The burrs are basically inaccessible unless one wants to start disassembling the machine past the mfg's recommendations.

However the owner's manual does recommend cleaning the hopper bin ever couple of weeks. I took a look at mine and it did have a build up of fine coffee powder in certain spots, so it was worth the effort, which was minimal anyway.

I generally use a vacuum cleaner to clean out the beans left in the depression above the grinder mechanism when I pull the hopper plate.

Back to the KA-9.

Are you sure the upper and lower burrs are identical? Perhaps they are not, and this is why the clearance may be off. Even if a difference isn't readily observable, you might try swapping them and seeing if that changes anything important.

I'm thinking maybe they have different depth counterbores or other precision surfaces that could affect grind height depending on which part of the grind mechanism they are mounted upon. Just guessing, mind you.

Post# 653837 , Reply# 38   1/16/2013 at 22:12 (2,844 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Well Rich, you're batting 1.000 thus far, so it's worth switching the burrs around.  It had occurred to me that they might be different and that they had been improperly installed, but when I had them side by side they looked identical.  That doesn't mean they are, but I decided not to switch them around.   It's worth a try.  If I could find a parts list that would answer the question, but information on these machines is very limited.


I read reviews on Amazon and there are a lot of unhappy owners who returned their mills.  I know people who have had a bad experience are more likely to write about it than those who didn't, but the reviews are disproportionately negative.  I think these mills were designed with light roasted, non oily beans in mind, as they were likely the most prevalent type back in 1937 America.


Meanwhile, I'll check the hopper bin on my Cuisinart.  The hopper is nearly empty, so I'll be performing maintenance fairly soon.

Post# 653839 , Reply# 39   1/16/2013 at 22:25 (2,844 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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I was just thinking the same.. People weren't fine grinding coffee for espresso and latte's back in the 30's 40' 50' 60's . Well some Italian families were but they may have been using hand crank grinders.

I can't quite tell from the pics or anything. but I have a Braun mill and it did sort of the same thing.. the dial was not matching the grind.. it turned out that you had to sort of get it in the right "starting" position to screw it on or it would get to its tight point threading it on (finest grind) before the fine grind markings on the base.

Post# 653848 , Reply# 40   1/16/2013 at 23:01 (2,844 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
From What One Understands

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Via various "coffee geek" sites one frequented when was very into vacuum pot coffee making, these Hobart/KitchenAid domestic grinders did not and could not produce a fine grind on their own. Espresso coffee must not have been a big thing back then cause the finest you can get from these is best for drip or maybe vacuum pots.

Being as this many seem to recall some members of various coffee geek sites claiming they "tweaked" this or other grinders to get a finer grind. Me I'd just as soon scour fleaPay or thrifts for a modern grinder such as the one's coffee places use. Or, another option would be a "vintage" type grinder as what was often seen at supermarkets. Growing up used to love going with my Grandmother to her local (A&P) because they had those huge red grinders at the front of the store. You took your Eight O'Clock coffee beans there and an employee would custom grind to whatever degree one wished.

Post# 653849 , Reply# 41   1/16/2013 at 23:07 (2,844 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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Thanks for the suggestion Pete.  The manual does advise that the ring is easier to adjust with the motor running, so that could easily apply to the initial installation.


Looks like I have a couple of things to try tomorrow.


Regarding the Cuisinart Grind & Brew burrs not being accessible for maintenance, I think the difference may be that the Cuisinart burrs aren't flat like the ones on the KA, and therefore not as vulnerable to oil and residue accumulation.

Post# 653850 , Reply# 42   1/16/2013 at 23:32 (2,844 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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I have quite a few different grinders though most are 70's and 80's stuff.
Here's an older Cory grinder I found a couple of years ago.. It's adjustable inside but you have to loosen a couple of screws and turn the grind mechanism but it's all marked.

Not sure what year it is

Post# 653936 , Reply# 43   1/17/2013 at 14:02 (2,843 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
I figured it out

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Pete, that's an interesting Cory grinder.  It doesn't seem to take up too much counter space either.


I pulled the KA apart again and the burrs are indeed identical.  I fooled with adjusting the ring for a while and finally decided to ignore the instructions from the owner's manual and apply common sense.  I noticed that with the ring tightened almost all the way, the burrs would make slight contact (and a faint ringing noise) after power was cut and they spun to a stop.  I knew this wasn't right.


I decided to back off the ring and tighten its set screw so burr contact wouldn't be possible.  My first attempt at this prevented the ring from moving beyond one click in the "fine" direction.  The ring has a stop on the bottom that hits the set screw, preventing it from traveling more than 360 degrees in either direction.  I loosened the set screw and rotated the ring just enough to allow the stop to get past the screw,  and tightened it down again. 


In doing this, I noticed something else that points to yet another error in the owner's manual.  The "M" in "medium" now was positioned above the set screw at the rear of the housing.  The instructions advise to position it above the grind indicator arrow on the front.  With the "M" above the screw, the ring now rotates clockwise until the word "fine" is above the arrow, and counter-clockwise until the word "coarse" is above the arrow, with "medium" in between.  This is exactly how it's supposed to behave.


By following the instructions in the manual, I was setting the ring into an adjustment range that would have resulted in no grinding action at all when turned fully in the "fine" direction because the burrs were making almost complete contact, which would have ruined them.  By aligning the "M" with the set screw, there's now room on the finest setting for beans to fit in between the burrs.


Wow.  I can't believe how sloppy Whirlpool was with the instructions for this thing.


Next:  Grinding some beans for espresso later this evening.

Post# 653949 , Reply# 44   1/17/2013 at 15:33 (2,843 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        
Consistent Grind?

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I have one of these new "reissue" KitchenAid coffee grinders. I have had the burrs out of mine twice trying to get them adjusted correctly. It seems with mine that no matter where I adjust it I get a very inconsistent grind. Even when I move the burrs apart to yield a coarser grind I get a lot of fine powder. It often causes the vacuum pot to fail due to a plugged filter. I get a far more consistent grind from my Braun chopper!

I'm not sure if this is a symptom of the design or if something is amiss with mine. It seems to me that the burrs are spun WAY to fast in this design. This likely adds to the fact that these grinders make a mess, I have grounds all over the counter when I'm done Due to these issues mine has likely ground less then a couple pounds of coffee and it mostly just sits next to my mixer and looking pretty.

The KitchenAid Pro series seems to grind a slower speed. From what I have seen of them they addressed all the problems I have with my earlier design model. I'm in the market for one of those.

Post# 653953 , Reply# 45   1/17/2013 at 15:48 (2,843 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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I just tested this one out.


Findings:  Even on the finest setting, there are large chunks mixed in.  It sounds like the reverse is true when set for a coarse grind.


I'm impressed with the speed that this thing will render ground beans though.  Just a few seconds produces enough to make a pot of espresso. 


I had no problem with grounds flying everywhere.  They dropped neatly from the spout downward into the glass.  It all struck me as a very professional system, and it's not any more noisy than others I've used.


This thing can't even come close to turning out a fine enough grind for Turkish/Greek coffee though, which is what I'd really like.  Now that it's in proper working order I may end up giving it to my sister, who grinds her own beans every morning for use in her Chemex Automated.  It would be a very convenient set-up for her.





Post# 654516 , Reply# 46   1/19/2013 at 15:34 (2,841 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )        

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You're such a good brother. Smile

Post# 808939 , Reply# 47   2/12/2015 at 16:21 (2,087 days old) by moccamaster ()        
My coffee grinder has been resuscitated

Thank you guys for posting this. My 7-ish year-old KCG200 - aka A-9 (cobalt) was nothing more than eye candy lately. Well, not even. It was dirty and I didn't care because it wasn't working right. A couple of years back it got jammed up and the grind adjustment ring wouldn't twist much. I asked hubby to investigate and he must have reassembled with the burrs too far apart. It has made chunky grinds since - regardless of the position of the grind ring. I didn't want to make hubby feel bad and I believe in the, "If you want something done right, do it yourself" adage so I very well couldn't complain. Hubby is not around today so I took the thing apart, cleaned it, and reassembled. It works like a champ now. I'll list my big takeaways from all of the helpful posts above - and some I found on other sites:

- The set screw in mine has a tamper-proof torx hole.

- Take the bottom plate off so that a flat-head screwdriver can be used in the center shaft slot for the removal of the acorn-nut and the burr set-screws.

- Acorn nut is reverse threaded.

- Don't get burrs wet

- You can harvest a new top-burr from a bottom assembly (part 9707092)

- Rice is good option for cleaning vs. dis-assembly (I try that the next time it needs cleaning)

- Recommended ring adjustment instructions: with the external set-screw removed, the back of the grinder should face you so that you are looking at the set screw hole. Tighten the adj. ring clockwise until it stops. Then turn the ring counter-clockwise only until the word Medium is just to the right of the set screw hole - about one line/click away. Screw the set-screw back in. Now the indicator arrow on the front will make sense. Twist the ring counter-clockwise to get to "Course" (burrs get further apart c-clockwise). Twist the ring clockwise to get to "Fine" (burrs get closer together).

- I have no idea how rp2813 got the whole bottom burr assembly out. (reply #26) I was afraid to break something so I made due by just removing the burr from the fingered holder. Mine wasn't gooey-filthy as I've never used flavored coffee and I believe I got it clean enough.

- Order replacement burrs now if you are afraid the parts will become impossible to find later. The trick for me will be remembering where I put them when I need them in a few years.

I have a new Technivorm coffee make and that's what precipitated the need for my grinder to work properly again. So far, so good. The coffee is stupendous.

Post# 808995 , Reply# 48   2/12/2015 at 23:28 (2,087 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

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It's been a couple of years, but I think the bottom burr assembly may have just fallen out by itself.  One of those situations where it seemed impossible to budge or get a grip on, and then it just dropped out on its own.


I'm glad the information shared here got your grinder going again.



Post# 1089578 , Reply# 49   9/15/2020 at 21:54 by dawley2570 (Novato, California)        
KitchenAid Vintage A-9 Coffee Grinder

Does anyone know where to purchase the electric motor brushes for a KitchenAid Vintage A-9 Coffee Grinder?

Post# 1089591 , Reply# 50   9/16/2020 at 01:39 by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

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I would check on line for brush sources and then try to match up what you have.   Or if you can find an exploded view of just the motor for the subject grinder, you may find a Whirlpool part number for the brushes, but again, I don't know if they'd be an exact match for your A-9.

Post# 1089619 , Reply# 51   9/16/2020 at 11:03 by jeff_adelphi (Adelphi, Maryland, USA)        

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I got brushes from McMaster-Carr for a KA grinder I rebuilt some time ago. They were a little too big but I was able to sand them down to size, they were a bit too long too but were easy to shorten.

Post# 1089627 , Reply# 52   9/16/2020 at 12:21 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

One of my all time finds was in the early 80s when I found one in a thrift store. They thought it was a blender with missing parts and sold it to me for something like $1.99 or maybe just 99 cents. Works perfectly. I bought the oval plastic container used with the beige plastic model of the 60s for catching the ground coffee and then found the genuine glass one at a depression glass show.  Those used to be so much fun and so close, right in Greenbelt, but everyone I went with and the vendors I got to know have all died so I don't go anymore.

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