Interesting that the replacement valve is missing those parts, I have never seen that style valve body that was missing those parts so i don't know whether they may have been removed by someone or if they used up excess valve bodies and made a non thermostatic valve.

The thermostatic valve was an interesting feature to maintain a constant warm water temperature of around 100 degrees, it was especially helpful in areas where the cold water temperature was very cold in the winter or for modern homes where the hot water supply temperature is kept below 120 D.

I am sure that I have the parts that your valve needs, call me if you need more information, Kevin B has all my #s, John

Hi John. The idea that the missing parts were removed from the valve would seem like the obvious answer here, except that the part came in a sealed bag. I was so sure of this part that I actually picked up a second one, and when I discovered that the one valve was missing everything that should've been under the metal plate, I made use of a small hole in the bag on the other valve and had a look under its plate as well. Again, there's nothing there. So that leaves me thinking that all Horton 221 valves were made this way deliberately. But of course that begs the question, Why? Why would Horton do this? The only other possibility I can think of is that Horton intended the end user to transfer the thermostatic mechanism from the failed original Maytag valve, into their replacement. But having never seen the inside of an original thermostatic valve, for all I know that's not even possible.

Last February I managed to get my hands on a new old stock thermostatic valve for my A700, but it had been stripped of two of its solenoids and the mounting brackets. Fortunately I was able to borrow these parts from the Horton 221 valve seen to the left, so the thermostatic valve is now complete. But since it needs to go on the machine I was still looking for another to keep as a spare. Well, a bit more than a year of searching has finally paid off, but there's a twist. The other day I was reading through one of my Maytag washer parts manuals for fun(yes, I actually do that sort of thing) and I saw something intriguing. Maytag's washer model 140 uses a thermostatic valve that's nearly identical to the valve used in the later machines. The only difference I could find was the part number of its discharge nozzle. But as a result of that change the part number for the entire valve changed. Instead of the familiar 201163, its part number was 200864.

Anyways, I was feeling lucky, so I did a quick search and immediately found a seller that claimed to have two in stock. I bought them both and they arrived today. In the photo below the difference in nozzle diameter is clearly visible, but since the nozzles are easily swapped from one valve to another this is an absolute non-issue. I'll keep them as spares and when I need them I'll swap the nozzles.

…………. but for the rest of us a simple clamp will work, and not only save your fingers but possibly the valve. If you should lose your grip while you’re running the first screw in or taking the last one out you run the risk of that spring tension breaking the nylon valve body at the screw hole. That would be bad. Also, with the clamp in place you can take your time running the screws in a few turns by hand before reaching for the screwdriver. The screws are self tapping and are more than capable of cutting new threads each time they’re installed, but why chew up the holes in the valve body needlessly? If you can get a few turns on them by hand then you know you’ve picked up the original threads and aren’t cutting new ones.

Anyways, I was pretty surprised to find these valves under another part number and figured other folks might want to know about this as well, so consider this a heads up.

Hey John - Thanks for your C clamp endorsement, but I have to respectfully disagree with you  regarding the purpose of that big spring hiding under the brass cover. While you are correct that spring pressure pushes the piston back as the wax cools, you've got the wrong spring. The spring you're thinking of is labeled 106 in the drawing below, and it's partially hidden from view underneath the piston valve, but if you look closely through the gaps left by the four spokes in its end you can see it in there. As the piston extends and pushes on the piston valve, this spring is compressed between the brass piston valve and the nylon valve body. As the wax cools and shrinks this spring pushes back. Here's a drawing from the original  patent filing for this valve that shows how all of these parts relate to each other. In rereading the data it seems I misspoke(one day I'll learn to reread the data BEFORE I post). In the patent filing the large spring labelled 113 in the drawing is described as an overtravel spring, and its purpose is to protect the valve from damage in case the piston should extend too far in response to very hot water. Under normal operating conditions it will not move at all.

If you follow the link below you can download a copy of the patent information for this valve yourself. It's an interesting read

Andrew - Can you see what you're looking for in the drawing? It does show where everything goes, but if you still need more help let me know.

I totally agree. These interesting and intricate little valves are one of the coolest things about some of these older machines. It's really unfortunate that they're so hard to find.