Thread Number: 4479
Modern compact/portable washers 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 101637   1/4/2006 at 06:48 (6,677 days old) by brettsomers ()        

I am considering getting a Danby-style portable washer (with agitator) for my apartment. does anyone here have experience with this type? how do they compare with the Haier brand? and "pulsator" wash action? thanks




Post# 101652 , Reply# 1   1/4/2006 at 08:56 (6,677 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
I myself had a Kemnore badged WP portable. For all intents and purpoposes a *REAL* machine.

When the elecotnics fizzed, service and parts were availalble.

Let us know what you decide.



Post# 101682 , Reply# 2   1/4/2006 at 17:23 (6,676 days old) by cybrvanr ()        

The Danby front loading machine has a good reputation for quality and reliability. It also has a built-in water heater too. Great machine at a good price for a FL. Whirlpool also makes a compact TL washer. I have one of these as well. I've had it for about 10 years, and it has served me very well. The portable kit contains casters, and a faucet connection so that you can connect it up to an ordinary kitchen sink. The Haier TL compact machine I know of is built similar to the Whirlpool, but I don't know if it has quite the build quality of any of these. Epinions has some scathing reviews of the Haier machines, and their customer service if you do need them is beyond terrible. Haier is a Chinese company, but they have a plant in South Carolina, just east of Columbia

Post# 101829 , Reply# 3   1/5/2006 at 10:49 (6,676 days old) by designgeek ()        

There are three Danby washers.

The one you see rave reviews about is the front-loader, DWM-500. It appears to be fairly small but apparently will handle large items well. I would guess it can handle somewhere 6# to 8# per load. It has a unique option for a 200 degree sanitize cycle: this is the washer you want to have if avian flu goes human/human contagious or if any other nasty bugs are going around. The other cycles cover the usual wide range of options of water temps and agitation speeds and so on. It has a high spin speed so you need less dryer time. Construction quality is rated exceptionally high. Performance (cleaning ability) is rated exceptionally high. Everyone who has one of these loves it. And the price is amazingly low compared to other front-loaders of equivalent quality; expect to pay between $450 and $600 for this one.

The other two, you don't see as much news about but they're still good machines.

One is the twin-tub, DTT-420. I've got this machine and it's excellent. Cleans as well as any top-loader I've used. Fast, efficient (low water & electricity consumption), reasonably quiet unless you load the spinner off balance. The gentle cycle is sufficient for almost anything; the "normal" cycle should be rated "vigorous" and is useful for loads of small items such as underwear & white socks. Has a conventional agitator operated similarly to a "pulsator," i.e. rotate, pause, reverse, pause, etc. The high-speed spinner (1400-1600 rpm) gets clothes dry enough to cut your tumble-dryer usage by half: big electricity savings there. Construction is a bit light but with care it should last as long as any other washer. The tradeoff with twin tub washers is that they're manually operated: you control the water levels from the sink faucet, transfer the clothes from wash tub to spin tub, and turn the knobs to set the times for each cycle (good oldfashioned clockwork timers), and you get your hands wet along the way:-). There's a learning curve but then you can zip through loads in half an hour each. Load capacity is rated at 10# but realistically is 6# for mixed loads and maybe 8# for loads consisting of small items (underwear & t-shirts & socks). Spinner capacity is 4-1/2 # so you have to split the loads in the spinner but this is the case with all spin dryers. Price range is $250 - $350 depending on where you buy. This is probably the most efficient washer you can get at that price. Also the machine to get if you're off-grid and use solar or wind power.

The other is the compact automatic top-loader, DWM-99-W. Somewhat more compact than the twin tub because it doesn't have a separate spin dryer. Load size is slightly less than the twin tub because it has the standard concentric washtub design. Has a standard agitator, I don't know if it uses the "pulsator" type agitation or if the motion is continuous. Has basically two cycles, one of which is longer and has an extra rinse. Has a normal/gentle action selector, and a water level control, and, I think, a temperature control (hot/warm/cold washes). It would seem that the cycle times on this one are pretty quick also, as with most top loaders. Construction details are similar to the twin tub, i.e. a bit light but well-designed and should last if taken care of. People who have these are happy with them. If you're not sure what to buy but you want something that's familiar, this one's a safe bet. Prices are about $300 plus or minus a bit, depending on where you buy.

In general, Danby machines get good reviews; quality and performance are good, customer service is responsive, presumably that means parts are obtainable easily enough if needed.

In fairness to Haier, I suspect that some of the bad reviews on Haier machines are people who don't know how to use compact washers properly, i.e. who overload them and don't pay attention to what they're doing. It seems that Haier has also improved quality over the last couple of years. Also it's possible that some dealers were offering bottom-of-the-line models that use "gravity drain," which is common in places where you discharge the washer water into a floor drain (as with the old wringer washers), whereas people expect pumped draining so you can discharge used water into the kitchen or laundry room sink. The mid- to high- range Haiers of course have pumped draining. Prices are comparable to Danby. Haier also make a twin tub (larger capacity than the Danby but hard to find) and a front-loader.

Last but not least, compact washers of whatever kind aren't designed to do large items such as blankets for a large bed; those will still need to go to the laundromat and be washed in a large front-loader. But they will handle all your regular clothes, bed sheets, bathroom towels, and so on quite well, and pay for themselves in a year or at most two years with money saved on the laundromat. And of course you save time because you can do other things at home while the laundry is going.

There are other bits & pieces around this site about compact washers if you need more information. Let us know what you decide to buy and how it works for you; and if you need more advice either about buying or using a compact machine, feel free to ask.

Post# 101858 , Reply# 4   1/5/2006 at 15:59 (6,675 days old) by brettsomers ()        
geek

 thanks for your input. i was considering the danby compact top loader. i live in a NY-style apartment in san antonio and am tired of having to smell the apartment washers before i use them. i need something that can hook to the kitchen sink and with casters preferably. price is also a major consideration for me. i like the whirlpool compact top loader but it costs almost twice the amount the danby does. i would consider the danby FRONT loader since you can do so much more with that style. any other portable front loaders out there under 500 dollars? thanks again

Post# 101983 , Reply# 5   1/6/2006 at 07:15 (6,675 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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If you have 24 inches and can put the machine near the sink, something to consider might be a T/L BOL WP or KM.

One water level
One cycle
One wash/rinse temp: warm/cold

If you will be connecting it to a sink/faucet, then one temp makes no diff.

Locking casters(*wheels*) may even be an option.

Adding these to a BOL may still be much less expesnive than a compact portable.

Plus side: a full-sized load in a compact cabinet.

Post# 102145 , Reply# 6   1/6/2006 at 22:59 (6,674 days old) by cybrvanr ()        

Look for a scratch n dent warehouse near your area too. Sears has these outlets all over the country, and appliances can be had for 25-50 percent off the store prices. Other appliance shops have them too. You may get lucky and find a good deal on the right machine by hitting one of these shops every few days or so to look for "fresh meat" I got the Whirlpool compact washer at one of these. I only paid $200 for it, but it was originally a $400 machine! It had a dent in the rear corner just below the water inlet valve.

Post# 102414 , Reply# 7   1/8/2006 at 04:58 (6,673 days old) by designgeek ()        


I have to differ with Toggleswitch about that. One water level, one cycle, one set of temperature settings: may work well if all your loads are the same. But will end up costing you more in the long run for using more hot water when you could have used cold, or more water for small loads that could have used less. At least go one step higher and get a "high/low" water level, "warm/cold" wash, and "normal/gentle" agitation setting.

Re. mounting on casters, ask around here first. Some models yes, some no, and in this case "no" means, you really don't want the washer scooting around the kitchen floor if the load is unbalanced during spin.

Post# 102470 , Reply# 8   1/8/2006 at 11:44 (6,673 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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I have pictures of both my Haier and Danby collections and videos to post if members want to see

Post# 102472 , Reply# 9   1/8/2006 at 11:56 (6,673 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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Re. mounting on casters,


I meant LOCKING casters.

Post# 102473 , Reply# 10   1/8/2006 at 11:57 (6,673 days old) by westytoploader ()        

I'm with Steve, go for a 24" full-sized BOL Whirlpool, Roper, or Kenmore. These will have a larger capacity than a compact but will just as easily accept the Whirlpool faucet connector so you can fill and drain right from the sink, and last time I checked, optional casters were available! And since you're using just the "Cold" solenoid of the water valve, you can infinitely adjust the water temperature from the faucet. Some are available with 2 water levels as well if you just want to wash a half-load.

Based on what I've seen when you're using only one side of a water valve, it's also a good idea to cap off the other side to prevent any leaking or dripping (doesn't happen on all machines, but just to be safe...). One of those black threaded caps for garden equipment works fine.

Here's one with adjustable water level and a temperature control that you can set for "Cold/Cold" for faucet use. I just now remembered that some lower-end models have the temperature selection in the timer, which could be inconvienent to mess around with.

--Austin

CLICK HERE TO GO TO westytoploader's LINK
Post# 102594 , Reply# 11   1/9/2006 at 06:50 (6,672 days old) by designgeek ()        


Looks like the debate is starting to condense around a) smaller versions of standard units made by well-established manufacturers, and b) compacts made by less well-known manufacturers.

Bpetersxx, yeah, go ahead and post your pictures and videos (the latter hopefully in Quicktime format).

Post# 102605 , Reply# 12   1/9/2006 at 08:03 (6,672 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
BTW-

There are also "Y" hoses and rigid "pipe-like" connectors that feed both sides (hot/cold) of the solenoid from ONE fill hose, to do the snap-coupler at the faucet routine.

When I am in a rental apt for a few years in the near future I was thinking of getting a 24 inch wide (60cm) T/L-er while I still can.

No point in taking my Frigidaire F/L-er with me, these 9 or equivalent)will be plentiful here in the US in the future.

[Now, any thoughts in gettin a reluglar (110/220v 30a line)electric dryer and working out a Franken-dry situation by putting a 110v heating element in it? ]

Post# 102610 , Reply# 13   1/9/2006 at 08:21 (6,672 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        
110/220v30a line

 Hey Steve. Just thought of this, My electric hydronic baseboard heater in the family room was wired with two (2) 110 lines to make it 220 or 240. Even the old one was wired this way. As you know I am not an electrician but, can something like this be done like this? I think there is one breaker for this addition which also feeds 4 outlets in my addition (110) but they use the 2 110 wires for the heater. I do not know if I am explaing this correctly. What I am trying to say is use 2 110 lines. I may be all wrong, but I tried.

Ray

Post# 102633 , Reply# 14   1/9/2006 at 10:49 (6,672 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
Dont ask, don't tell..

toggleswitch's profile picture
yup..


a 220 volt line (with our system, on this continent)is basically two 110 volt lines.

(They are two different hot-legs, however. If from the same hot-leg the voltage will be ZERO, rather than 220v.)

They can share one ground wire safely. Won't get more techincal here; but each hot leag is basically a different *phase* (purposely out-of-synch with the other).

Post# 102642 , Reply# 15   1/9/2006 at 11:20 (6,672 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

This explains it better, but still a little confused.
So...could you use 2 110 lines to run the electric dryer? Or, you woun't be able to do because of the two diferent hot legs?

Post# 102646 , Reply# 16   1/9/2006 at 11:54 (6,672 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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In theory yes.

But they would have to be fed from the panel box(conusmer-unit => uk) in a certaian way..

Specifically.. meaning one from the black (incoming)wire, and one from the red. Can't take both from the same *hot-leg* (color).

Also an American clothes dryer neeads heavier(thicker) wire to handle the required 30 amp draw; most househodd wiring is not of that grade/capacity.

Post# 102649 , Reply# 17   1/9/2006 at 12:02 (6,672 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
yes I WAS an electrician briefly, actually.

toggleswitch's profile picture
Ray:
Sounds like a three-wire cable was split to use 220 volts for the heater, then ONE side of the ciruit(one hot [color] + the neutral [white]) to get 110v for your outlets.

This is not dangerous even though there MAY be a more preferred wiring method.

My advice? Don't fret, at all.

PERFECTY SAFE, IMHO.

Post# 102650 , Reply# 18   1/9/2006 at 12:04 (6,672 days old) by rayjay (Carteret, New Jersey)        

Now I think I understand better. This is interesting.
Thanks for the explanation. You are going to make a "wire" man out of me. LOL

Post# 102828 , Reply# 19   1/10/2006 at 10:35 (6,671 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

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That should be ok.
Just stay away from becomg a pipe man.

Post# 102829 , Reply# 20   1/10/2006 at 10:36 (6,671 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
BOOM- GOTCHA.

Post# 102832 , Reply# 21   1/10/2006 at 10:45 (6,671 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
Get me back privately.

toggleswitch's profile picture
LET IT RIDE- LOL
We dont need no trouble in these here parts.

Post# 103032 , Reply# 22   1/11/2006 at 15:37 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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ooo

Post# 103033 , Reply# 23   1/11/2006 at 15:37 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
ooooooo

Post# 103040 , Reply# 24   1/11/2006 at 17:13 (6,669 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        
But what does it look like

out of the box????

Post# 103041 , Reply# 25   1/11/2006 at 17:28 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
I goofed and didnt get pictures of the 3 yellow straps around the box

Cut and remove them and lift the top of the box off

Post# 103043 , Reply# 26   1/11/2006 at 17:46 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
u get this

Post# 103044 , Reply# 27   1/11/2006 at 17:53 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Sound proofing

Haier China models call this a rat trap or something like that


is this called rat proofing in Britain and in Australia


Had to go to arrrooohhh's profile to spell Arrrooohhh and Australia

Post# 103046 , Reply# 28   1/11/2006 at 18:01 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
these were in the tub

Quick connector like is used on DW

Instruction manual

2 hoses to hook it up

4 castors

Post# 103081 , Reply# 29   1/11/2006 at 20:19 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
agitator

tub looks similar to my Haier waterfall washer

Post# 103082 , Reply# 30   1/11/2006 at 20:20 (6,669 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Taps

Post# 103158 , Reply# 31   1/12/2006 at 06:01 (6,669 days old) by designgeek ()        

Oh cool! I've always wanted to see pics of that one up close.

Notice the Energy Guide label for the Danby top loader. The little arrow is just off the charts to the left, which means maximum efficiency for its size.

Yes, that dark gray panel that's sitting on top is called a mouse-proof or a rat-proof in the Asian markets. Presumably because in the rural areas in those climates, mousies are known to make their nests in the workings of washers. For the USA market it's a noise-proof because no one in the US admits to having mice:-) In Australia what you have to worry about is venomous snakes and spiders, which are so lethal they make ours look like cuddly pets, but somehow I don't think manufacturers want to call that panel a snake-proof down there.

Optional swivel casters. Hmm! I wonder if they have locks or stops. On the twin tub the casters are built-in and non-swivel but it's still easy enough to move the machine around the kitchen. It would make sense to have non-swivel casters on a conventional TL because the axis of spin is symmetrical with the cabinet, and so it's more likely to scoot around the floor. In any case you do have to level the machine before using it, and might have to adjust the leveling if you don't use it in the same place each time. Also on the twin tub there's no need for leveling because the fill level is controlled manually from the faucet and the spinner is not symmetrical with the cabinet in both directions.

The agitator is almost identical to that on the twin tub, but on yours the side fins are a little deeper. On the twin tub the top thingie unscrews a quarter-turn and removes for cleaning the lint filter; on the TL you might have a lint filter system built into the washtub. The way the agitation works on the twin tub is similar to a pulsator or the Whirlpool compact "pulgitator." One turn clockwise, pause, one turn counterclockwise, pause, repeat. One turn each way in "gentle" cycle, which is strong enough to clean most anything. Two turns in one direction followed by one turn in the other for the "normal" cycle which IMHO should be labeled "strong" because it is, and also tends to be somewhat splashy. I'd be interested to know if the same system is used on the TL. What I think Danby did here was: these would be pulsator machines in Asia, but for the North American market Danby had conventional agitators fitted because that's what we're accustomed to and they won't tangle pants legs and shirt sleeves.

Actual full load capacity on the twin tub is 75% to 80% of rated capacity, so the TL is probably similar; to be safe you probably want to start with a load of 60% of capacity and then try 80% and see how it goes. For blue jeans, roll them up in a loose ball before tossing them in; they'll unroll while washing; otherwise they tend to take up more space than necessary and reduce capacity.

Two input hoses are intended for permanent installation; when used as a portable and attached to the sink, you use one hose and control the temperature from the faucet: so if you want a warm or hot rinse, you can get it.

The galvanized metal back-panel has sharp edges and may tend to rattle a bit during spin. The way to solve both of those problems is to remove it and line the edges with folded-over duct tape, one layer is quite sufficient; and then screw it back on. The duct tape cushions it enough to stop the rattle and of course makes it safer to handle. Don't over-tighten the screws, the sheet metal is somewhat lighter than we're used to here and you don't want to strip the holes.

If you do turn the machine on its side to install the casters, it would be interesting to see photos. Ditto for if you take off the back panel as per above paragraph.




Post# 103224 , Reply# 32   1/12/2006 at 15:38 (6,668 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Have more pictures but the camera batteries died so I have to charge them again.

The batteries I got for cameras and mp3 players and Logitech
computer keyboards and mice came from Canada so PeteK will be pleased

Post# 103232 , Reply# 33   1/12/2006 at 16:15 (6,668 days old) by brettsomers ()        
danby

 the model pictured is the same one im planning on getting. im a little bothered by the shape of the agitator. the vanes running up the center post are large while the ones at the bottom are almost non existent. do the large fins on the center post do anything to turnover the load? seems like all they would do is wear against the clothes they come into contact with. i woulda prefered an agiator closer to the one in the classic maytags. anyone had experience with agitators similar to this?

Post# 103324 , Reply# 34   1/13/2006 at 01:03 (6,668 days old) by arrrooohhh (Sydney Australia)        
Poisonus snakes and spiders LOL!!!

 Cute little Danby Pete! Cant wait for the video clip too!

I have no idea what we call those rat trap things, they only seem to be a feature on Asian machines, they dont come on our locally manufactured Simpsons and Westinghouses. Incidently my Hootag (Euro Hoover FL sold in Australia as Maytag) came with one of these but its suppossed to be soundproofing.

brettsomers, you will find that the agitator works quite well. These agitators or pulgitators are quite good. They work in the same manner as the flat pulsator discs, but the centre shaft does move the load better and prevent tangling. They also wash more gentle than one of those thrashing Whirlpools, because the stroke is so long.

Post# 103380 , Reply# 35   1/13/2006 at 12:32 (6,668 days old) by designgeek ()        


The bottom vanes on the TT's agitator are about 3/4" deep, I assume the same on the compact TL.

With a load of about 50% of rated capacity, you get obvious turnover action. With a load of 60% of rated capacity you get less, and with 80% of rated capacity, not a lot of obvious turnover. *However*, even without the vigorous rollover of e.g. a fullsize American TL, it does an excellent job of cleaning. You'll sit there watching it and at first you think "gee, the load is moving pretty slowly, I wonder if this darn thing is going to do the job?" but after a few loads you're like, "wow!, hot-damn!, it's subtle but it really works!"

When the agitator is in motion it moves fast, and you can see a decent amount of water movement at the periphery and at the center. The water itself rolls over through the load, which does the job. I've used the "gentle" wash cycle consistently for a year, and an extraction rinse routine in the spinner, as well as a final overflow rinse, which gets all the detergent & its perfume out, and my clothes come out so clean they smell like fresh water. And some of my stuff seems to be "aging backwards": whiter whites, darker darks, brighter colors. In all fairness that might be due to the more efficient rinse when using an extract-rinse procedure in a twin tub, people who have Hoovermatics report similarly.

And undoubtedly part of it is due to paying closer attention to one's washing procedures, i.e. most people, when they choose a machine conscientiously and take the time to learn how to use it properly, report getting cleaner clothes and fluffier towels etc.

You can probably get similar results using the extra rinse function in the compact TL, and reducing your detergent so there's not excess hanging out in the fabrics and causing them to get dull.

My way of determining correct detergent dosage is to get it to the point where there's just a little suds forming, but no more. Some folks here will consider that sacrilege, as they prefer plenty of suds foaming up like whipped cream, but it works for me. (I always thought lots of suds = lots of cleaning, and suds are fun to play with anyway!, but the Danby agitator system doesn't kick up the foam unless you really overdose on detergent, and the results prove these machines work better with smaller doses.)

Now if I were a mechanic or construction worker, or played in the yard and got grass stains on my knees & elbows, I don't know how it would handle all of that kind of heavy grime. Presumably a 15-minute pre-soak (warm water, detergent, no agitation) would loosen it up well enough that the agitation could flush it out of the fabrics.

The larger fins on the center post in the compact auto TL probably won't cause excessive wear. From what I've observed, they would tend to move the load as a mass, to help nudge it around the tub, rather than tearing at whatever's next to them. I've seen some very good reviews of that machine on That Home Site, including one by a guy who first bought the equivalent sized Haier, didn't like it at all, and returned it for a trade-in for the Danby, which he loved. Those reviews plus the constant rave-reviews on the Danby front-loader, were enough to convince me to buy a brand I'd never heard of before, and I'm glad I did.

In all fairness, Haier seems to have improved quite a bit over the last couple of years; but I think Danby still has the edge in terms of adapting Asian machines to the North American market.

Last but not least, one of the American-made compact auto TLs uses a similar system of agitation: clockwise, pause, counterclockwise, pause, repeat. I think it's Whirlpool but I'm not sure. So there seems to be some convergence between manufacturers on this system. But as for which type of agitator fin design is best for this type of motion, that remains to be seen and probably each does best under certain conditions.

Post# 103382 , Reply# 36   1/13/2006 at 12:33 (6,668 days old) by designgeek ()        


Yow!, I just wrote another full-length article there, without even trying:-) Hard to tell when typing in this little "Message" composing box, ha ha...

Post# 103394 , Reply# 37   1/13/2006 at 13:52 (6,668 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        
Maximum wash time

 Hi Designgeek,

What is the maximum wash time on your machine? Our Simpsons/Hoovers/Westinghouses, go up to a 28 minute wash, and thats without adding the soak period.

They seem to manage all kinds of dirt, on a full load, the clothes just dont move around. You're right, it seems to be more about moving the water than moving the clothes.

The big problem I found with those machines, is due to the very lightwieght construction, they go OOB very easily. However that was more of a Hoover issue, prior to the 3 models converging and having identical mechanicals.

Post# 103453 , Reply# 38   1/13/2006 at 17:47 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
pump

Post# 103487 , Reply# 39   1/13/2006 at 19:56 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
motor pulley for transmission

Post# 103489 , Reply# 40   1/13/2006 at 19:58 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
auxillary pressure switch

main p-s is in console

Post# 103491 , Reply# 41   1/13/2006 at 19:59 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
off balance switch

Post# 103494 , Reply# 42   1/13/2006 at 20:02 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
`

Post# 103495 , Reply# 43   1/13/2006 at 20:03 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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water valves

Post# 103496 , Reply# 44   1/13/2006 at 20:04 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
pump shot 2


looks like it directly connects to the tub

Post# 103499 , Reply# 45   1/13/2006 at 20:06 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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adjustable foot

the other 3 are molded into the bottom panel but this is spring loaded

Post# 103500 , Reply# 46   1/13/2006 at 20:06 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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knob for adj foot

Post# 103502 , Reply# 47   1/13/2006 at 20:08 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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not sure part of the brake

Post# 103503 , Reply# 48   1/13/2006 at 20:08 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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this is interesting

Post# 103504 , Reply# 49   1/13/2006 at 20:09 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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tub blocks

Post# 103506 , Reply# 50   1/13/2006 at 20:11 (6,667 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

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bottom

I think u can fit eight wheels on this


can roll it back forth and side to side

Post# 103605 , Reply# 51   1/14/2006 at 12:28 (6,667 days old) by designgeek ()        

Bpetersxx- Looks like the motor/transmission frame hangs down on a suspension from up above. Is that anchored into the top moulding or something else?

Brisnat81- Wash timer on the Danby TT is 0 - 15 minutes. Typically I'll use the 9-minute setting and then run a little water during the last 3 minutes to get the surface suds & stuff to float off and exit via the overflow drain. Or for whites that get bleached, a 12-minute cycle where the first 6 min is detergent only, then I add bleach, and in the last 3 minutes let a little water run through for overflow.

Interesting convergent results re. moving the water more than the clothes. Though, on the "normal" (i.e. strong) cycle, everything does slosh around in there quite a bit.

Out of Balance: not in my experience. The washtub can't. The spinner does if you load it improperly, and there's a learning curve with blue jeans and certain other items. When the spinner is offbalance it vibrates and is noisy, you can hear it in the next room. But when it's properly loaded it's practically silent (as in, "is it running now?"); the ticking of the mechanical timer is louder.

The way to deal with jeans and suchlike is, instead of curling them around the bottom of the spinner, drop them in waist first and then gently scrunch the legs down more or less evenly. And of course never mix heavy stuff like towels with really light stuff.

BTW, total power consumption for a 4-1/2 lb load (which is one full load for the spinner) is .06 KWH, or 60 watt-hours. Total power consumption for a 7- 8 lb. load is about 0.10 KWH or 100 watt-hours, the difference being more spinner time due to having to split the wash load into two spin loads.

All of the above doesn't apply to Bpetersxx's compact auto TL, which presumably doesn't require any manual intervention except possibly resetting the timer if one wants to tweak the cycle. It would be interesting to know the total power consumption (empirically measured) for that unit for a normal load on full cycle and on short cycle.

Post# 103662 , Reply# 52   1/14/2006 at 20:00 (6,666 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Has suspension rods that hold the entire tub and drive system to the cabinet like the Haier washers I have

I will check and see if I have pictures of the rods if not I will take some to post

Post# 105701 , Reply# 53   1/25/2006 at 19:09 (6,655 days old) by brettsomers ()        
i got my Danby today

 it seems to work well... im just doing my first load now... very quiet... more later if yall are interested

Post# 106100 , Reply# 54   1/27/2006 at 07:52 (6,654 days old) by designgeek ()        


Yeah, say more.

Post# 106728 , Reply# 55   1/30/2006 at 02:28 (6,651 days old) by norgeman ()        
Danby

 The Danby washer from what I can see from the pictures is a very well built machine. It should last you many years of use. Happy washing!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO norgeman's LINK
Post# 107140 , Reply# 56   2/1/2006 at 07:31 (6,649 days old) by designgeek ()        

Looks like your link is broken; it takes me to a login page at MSN.


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