Thread Number: 45208
1966 Lady Kenmore Dryer with Soft Heat, part 2
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 662487   2/25/2013 at 22:58 (4,048 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

akronman's profile picture

I finally got it indoors and plugged in, then the boyfriend headed out on a trip with the digital camera, so for now no new pics, here's the old link below to the original thread.

 

I ran 3 loads of clothes, it seems to do best so far when set on 5 of 8, 8 being dampest. Then I tore into it, more lint on the motor than I have ever seen, and almost no space left up the blower/filter/exhaust tube, more lint than I could believe, yet the airflow out the exhaust hose seemed fine. The bulb in the console is missing and seems to be a rare size, we'll see. the drum light is burned out too, of course.

 

I have plenty of WP dryer motor experience, I'll clean and lube and all should be well there.

 

John Combo was right, the low watt heating element was clearly broken so the drying seemed to take longer than I expected, but was accurately dried nonetheless. I will soon order a new element, but with the break about 1 inch from the soldered connection, I will also re-solder this one and I bet it will work. So I get only 1475 watts instead of 1500 on the small element, big deal. I'll photo it, seems a dumb design with significantly thinner NiChrome wire than the larger 4100 watt element, they should have instead used the same heavier wire for both, just tremendously less a length for the 1500 watts versus 4100, it would still be working 47 years later.

 

It's in great shape, the felt at the drum rear and nylon glides at drum front are in fine shape, the 2 rollers are good, etc. Minor interior rust, though if you check the other thread you'll see a less than gorgeous drum interior. Any ideas on painting that, or just wipe it clean and leave it? I don't need heated up paint on clothes.

 

The adjustable buzzer is plenty loud but can be turned off, GREAT!!! The cabinet is 29 wide but doesn't have the extra-depth rear end, still a fine size drum. My 92 Kenmore dryer has the extra 2.5ish inches stuck out behind the cabinet for  tremendous depth, when did WP start that?

 

As nice as this did already, I can't wait until both elements work and it really does the modulating "Soft Heat" thing. And I can't wait for that camera to come back, you can't imagine how solid the console is, one piece and strong solid manufacturing, with less pitted chrome/plastic/silver than on almost any other golden oldie I have! Hopefully I'll find the correct flourescent bulb before the photo shoot.

 

 

 

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK




Post# 662488 , Reply# 1   2/25/2013 at 23:02 (4,048 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
drum

akronman's profile picture

here's a reprint of the drum shot, anyone have painting advice, or leave well enough alone instead of staining clothes with a bad paint job? It feels worn away for years, there's no new paint chips/flakes coming off.


Post# 662537 , Reply# 2   2/26/2013 at 07:49 (4,047 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1966 LKM Electric Dryer

combo52's profile picture

Mark glad you got it running, the problem with the 1400 watt element was not its thin size wire [ this is necessary to produce the correct wattage, if heaver wire had been used at this length it would produce about 12,000 watts and last about a minute before it would burn out ] the reason these smaller elements failed was because they tended to sag and bunch up at the bottom near the terminals overheat at this point and burn out. You can reattach and carefully restretch the element and just above each insulator untwist the coiled element a little to keep it from sagging again. You can not resolder the element to the terminals as solder will just melt and come loose, you can however braze or weld the wire back in place if you like. Another way to reattach the element is to drill a hole in the steel terminal and attach the end of the element with a plated steel nut and bolt, I have done this many times.

 

And when you slightly shorten this [ or any element ] you will get a higher wattage [ or heat output ] so you will go from 1400 to maybe 1450 watts. You can make a measurement with an ohm meter and figure the exact wattage based on your homes voltage.

 

Keep Us Posted, John


Post# 662539 , Reply# 3   2/26/2013 at 07:58 (4,047 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
John, Thanks

akronman's profile picture

John--I always mention my wildest ideas here so I get advice before I start! Thank you---

Any painting advice, or leave that drum rear bulkhead alone?


Post# 662543 , Reply# 4   2/26/2013 at 08:11 (4,047 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

bajaespuma's profile picture

Mark, thank you for asking this question about painting the dryer drum. I've asked this before and nobody has even ventured a suggestion. Maybe somebody out there has some knowledge about the finishes used on these non-porcelainized painted drums. I have a flaky Monkeyward/Norge that I'd like to fix if it's possible.


Post# 662548 , Reply# 5   2/26/2013 at 09:11 (4,047 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

kenmoreguy64's profile picture
Mark -

It sounds like you're enjoying learning about your new dryer, and this is really fun to read.

The console flourescent light is still available from Whirlpool last time I checked, and not highly expensive either, not for a vintage part anyway.

As to the drum, for a long time, and maybe still today, Whirlpool offered a spray can enamel to re-paint drums, which supposedly matched the original gray color. I've not seen the tan paint from the early 1980s or a white to match the powder coating of 1984-ish to current but they may be available as well.

Below is a picture of a dryer of mine which I've owned since 1989 (its a 1977 Kenmore) and have been using as a daily driver since 2007. I had given it to my sister in 1989 and she used it until 2000 with a family. Mine has the 2.5 inch extended rear panel, thus the bulkhead is much more contoured vs. the flat-back 5.9 cu ft dryer, leaving more surface area for clothes to wear the paint off. Keep in mind that my dryer has MANY MANY MANY loads/miles on it.

Though the surfaces look bad, they are baby-butt smooth, and not at all rusty. I'd consider painting this area, but from everything I've ever heard, the spray enanel doesn't last long and wears right back off. If I was being really fussy on a restoration, I'd probably take a drum like this to a powder coater, but this machine works fine as-is.

My Mother's early 1983 dryer is wearing too, but hers is steel polished/shiny in the wear spots. I don't know if mine discolored due to heat or because it was in a moist storage trailer from 2000 to 2007, or perhaps because Mom's has the original tan finish which may have different color primers, but whatever the reason, the surfaces don't seem to create a problem and I never think about them. At this point I keep this dryer running because it works well, and its fun to keep putting more miles on it.

Gordon


Post# 662550 , Reply# 6   2/26/2013 at 09:26 (4,047 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Gordon

akronman's profile picture

Thanks for the pics and the painting advice, meaning leave the paint job as is, well worn away! I am medium fussy about restorations, but also lazy enough to know some 47 year old worn items will never look new again. Thank you. I dont' look like I did 47 years ago, trust me.

 

Within a few days I'll have more work done and heater repairs and my camera back---

 

An applaince parts website, I forget which, had the bulb and a picture of it, I got the pn# directly from the bulb. Ebay has 3 for $18, on order. I sure never heard of a 26"bulb, but I measured the missing space, they are right. There's no independent switch for it, I'll find out if it's only when running, or goes on when you open the door, etc. I like the console nightlights from my machines on all the time, cheap flourescent wattage can't ruin my electric bill. For me, the console light is more important the the drum painting!! The plasitc light cover is pretty yellowed, oh well.

Sylvania F18T8/CW/K26


Post# 662561 , Reply# 7   2/26/2013 at 11:12 (4,047 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Mark:

danemodsandy's profile picture
"The plasitc light cover is pretty yellowed, oh well."

There is hope!

Retr0Bright is a chemical process that removes UV and cigarette yellowing from plastics. It uses chemicals that are reasonably easy to obtain, and does not require a lot of special equipment. It is a DIY process, not a product you buy. The Retr0Bright Website explains it all in detail, with some pretty impressive "Before and After" examples. Here's a photo of a collectible Commodore 64 keyboard that has been treated with Retr0Bright on one half, and left untreated on the other. The photo is shared here under Creative Commons licensure, and is attributed to the Retr0Bright Website:




CLICK HERE TO GO TO danemodsandy's LINK


Post# 662571 , Reply# 8   2/26/2013 at 12:08 (4,047 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
blower

akronman's profile picture

 

Sandy--I have bookmarked the Retro-Bright website, thank you--that might be the answer---the lens looks like someone p'd on it, yecch




This post was last edited 02/26/2013 at 16:07
Post# 662573 , Reply# 9   2/26/2013 at 12:30 (4,047 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Mark:

danemodsandy's profile picture
I hope the Retr0Bright process helps with your lens. One thing I enjoy hugely about some of our members' restorations is that they often return appliances to "showroom new" condition.

That dryer of yours is a highly desirable one, so if you're able to get it back to what it was when new, you'll have a treasure.

BTW, if you're taking votes, I'm all for seeing that dryer drum repainted. :)


Post# 662575 , Reply# 10   2/26/2013 at 12:40 (4,047 days old) by cleanteamofny ((Monroe, New York)        

cleanteamofny's profile picture


As for the rear bulk head, it's replaceable. A donor dryer will do the trick if you can find one real cheap!


Post# 662676 , Reply# 11   2/26/2013 at 22:54 (4,047 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Happy for you - I love the graphics / cursive written labels and simplicity of the design. I'm half and half with how the drum looks...I'd leave it like Gordon's machine - it doesn't look so bad, it looks like a well worn pair of jeans. If I could afford it, I would have it powder coated, as time and $ allowed. Congrats! Nice to see another Vintage Lady Kenmore's of the 60's being cared after, to work again like new. :-)

Post# 662743 , Reply# 12   2/27/2013 at 09:47 (4,046 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
drum/bulkhead

akronman's profile picture

my $25 dryer is already at about $150, new heater element, lint filter, hinges, paint/primer, bulbs, incidentals. I just can't also afford the powder coating. Once it's back togehter in a few more days, I'll never tear it down to swap bulkheads, so I think the rear bulkhead will continue to wear away for 47 more years and it will dry clothes well regardless. Between my budget and the  age of various machines and my abilities to restore them, I'm ok with sometimes saying it's the very best I myself could do with my hobby. You guys advice is needed and appreciated, but I also like to say some machine's restoration is MY best work, not some professional painter or sand-blaster. Just personal preference (and low $$$$)

 

The better camera and the various new parts should all arrive in a few days, I'll keep posting. This Lady is fully naked and ready for paint.

 

 




This post was last edited 02/27/2013 at 10:07
Post# 662747 , Reply# 13   2/27/2013 at 10:12 (4,046 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Mark:

danemodsandy's profile picture
This is just a comment, okay? This is your dryer and you're the one who gets to say what happens.

You can paint that drum yourself, and painting it would actually be a more correct restoration than powder-coating, because powder-coating wasn't used in '66. It's kind of like classic cars - I've seen two beautiful Mustangs judged, and one came out on top for the trophy because it didn't have a modern urethane clear-coat paint job; it had the kind of paint Ford used on it when new. The modern paint job was "prettier," and "better" in terms of protecting the car, but it wasn't as accurate a representation of 1965 technology as the winner.

Whatever you do, know that I really admire the dryer and your efforts. I once had the matching washer, and wanted the dryer to go with it. I did an awful lot of looking, but never found it - this was pre-Internet. If I had found the dryer to make a pair, I might never have gotten into Maytags - I would have been very satisfied to own the Lady K's.

Of course, I'd have had all kinds of issues over the years with dispensers, solenoids, etc....

You can't have everything.

P.S.: I hear you about the cost of parts and supplies. I'm into a Maytag A806 for about $200 worth of stuff at this point.


Post# 662762 , Reply# 14   2/27/2013 at 10:56 (4,046 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Sandy

akronman's profile picture

Sandy---Thanks for the info and advice, cool.

After about my third machine, I started a spreadsheet to list repairs, prices, new items installed, etc, model #, serial#. It's all over the charts as to total $$ invested per machine, some $20 machine with $10 in parts, then another one for $100 plus over $100 in parts, it's crazy. Maybe I should just delete the spreadsheet and enjoy!

 

As for the matching washer, it seems quite rare that I get that. I have near-match late 70's Maytags, perfect match 78 1-18 almond washer and dryer, then 13 other total mismatch washer and dryers, oh well. Are we allowed to dry Whirplool washed clothes in a GE Dryer? Seems sinful.


Post# 662766 , Reply# 15   2/27/2013 at 11:07 (4,046 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Here's How I See It:

danemodsandy's profile picture
Yes, resurrecting vintage appliances can cost a fair amount in parts and supplies - BUT....

You end up with something much more solidly made than anything you can buy now. You're usually free of today's El Cheapo electronics. And, a couple of hundred for needed stuff positively pales next to the purchase price of new appliances.

When I'm through with the new 806 pair, I'll have something like $300 in them. Contrast that with the current Maytag Centennial pair, which go for close to $1000 - and that's street price, not MSRP.

Big difference. I suspect the 806s will still be trundling along long after a Centennial pair will have been recycled into Hyundai fenders. To say nothing of being able to do a hot wash that really is a hot wash.

And one last observation: I don't know how anyone else does it, but when I buy washer parts and supplies, it's out of pocket, as sort of a petty cash expenditure. Compare that to the poor schmo who has to have a new washer and dryer right now, and runs down to the local big-box store to get them - on a credit card, at 21 percent interest.

We here at AW are truly the champions.


Post# 662779 , Reply# 16   2/27/2013 at 11:55 (4,046 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
yea

akronman's profile picture

I hadn't thought of that, but you are right. Between a USED stove, fridge, Westinghouse roaster, KitchenAid mixer, dishwasher, 15 or so washers and dryers, a spare "Thanksgiving oven" in the basement and a spare apartment sized fridge sitting next to it, I've never used a credit card cent, always out-of -pocket spending cash and darn cheap.


Post# 662780 , Reply# 17   2/27/2013 at 11:57 (4,046 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Powder coating? Did I SAAAAY that? :-) Well, to be sure, if it wasn't done in '66, then I agree with Sandy.
So, when you do start painting, and you are the painter, right? ....will you do one prime and sand then two coats of paint or .....would like to know what your strategy is.




Post# 662786 , Reply# 18   2/27/2013 at 12:23 (4,046 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
paint

akronman's profile picture

On the interior, lots of sanding then 2 primer coats. On the bottom exterior, sand, 2x prime, 2x top coat. The exterior sides and back are pretty darn good, minor touch up needed only. The entire front has scratches, wear at the door edges, etc and yellowed after 47 years so it clearly doesn't match the nice pure white porcelain top. With all the rest of the machine apart and motor cleaning and parts on order, I haven't touched the front yet. Likely total dissasembly, sand and prime and 2 nice white epoxy topcoats, it's done well for me on other machines. Only the front will be exposed once installed, I ain't gonna do the entire cabinet exterior when it's 97% ok on the sides.


Post# 662806 , Reply# 19   2/27/2013 at 14:08 (4,046 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
The Other Thing....

danemodsandy's profile picture
....That I like about vintage laundry appliances is that when they break down, the problem is usually easy enough to diagnose.

Maytag washer squeaking? You probably need to lube or replace damper pads. Won't drain? Likely the PolyPump. Won't advance through the cycle? Could be several things, but the worst it can be is usually the timer.

Contrast that simplicity with a new laundry appliance with a digital readout that's showing an error code.

No. THANK. You.


Post# 663167 , Reply# 20   2/28/2013 at 23:17 (4,045 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
test runs

akronman's profile picture

The new heater element came today, so instead of repairing the old one, it's safely stored for the future and I installed the brand new heater. I put everything back together for a few test runs before I remove the front again for repainting. Every other aspect came apart and it now has a spotlessly clean blower and housing and motor and all air and exhaust passageways, what a hell of an exhaust out the back, fine improvement.

First load, towels and corduroys and painter pants and sport socks, full load from a 10 pound machine. I left the back off the dryer to watch the heater work, but put the exhaust vent on to get the air up near the basement ceiling instead of in my face. I craned my neck and stayed on the floor for the entire two loads, almost 100% of the time eyeing both elements, believe me i didnt' miss much. Both elements kicked on immediately and NEVER CYCLED. It was set on 5 of 8, 8 being damp-dry. Finally after about 34 minutes, the small element went off, about 3 more minutes and the large went off, then another 5 minutes of cooldown and the buzzer rang. Except for the thickest pair of athletic socks, all was dry and cool-downed.

 

Second load--after an empty AIR cycle to get back to room temp for test purposes--one entire double bed of sheets and pillowcases, regular cotton sheets. Only 20 minutes total time till the buzzer, but never any cycling on and off. Both elements for about 14 minutes, then only the large one for maybe 4 minutes, then neither for last 3 minutes for cooldown, all was dry and "cooled-down-warm", perfect.

 

Without much info on this system of 2-part heater, 4100 watts and 1500 watts, I expected both for starting, then only 4100, then kick over to only 1500 near the end, then no-heat cooldown. And I EXPECTED CYCLING ON AND OFF after about halfway through. There are two 2-wire thermo's on the blower housing, and the hi-limit right on the heater housing, and the 3 moisture sensors inside the drum, nice big bands. I removed TONS of lint from every aspect of the machine, it's spotless and was in a million pieces, everything washed and cleaned, and the airways from the filter intake to blower to out the back were the worst I've ever seen, Now it is like brand new. Is this why it no longer cycles, the airstream is truly fast enough that it never overheats? 2 loads dried perfectly and in a logical amount of time, but I really expected cycling on and off. Both loads, the instant the buzzer ended I could hear one thermo snap. The exhaust just runs up the wall about 6 feet and warms the basement for now, wintertime. Come spring, I'll get under the porch and drill thru for an outdoor vent which will add one 90 degree bend and then the final outdoor flap. This will somewhat slow the exhaust, and maybe then it will need to cycle?

 

Is something wrong? Thermostats to check? Does anyone have a wiring diagram ( and some deciphering skills?)

 

Of course if I hadn't stared at the heater, I'd have been perfectly happy with the results. It's noticeably quicker than before, when it had a partial heater and horridly compromised airflow.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

 

 

 

 


Post# 663174 , Reply# 21   2/28/2013 at 23:33 (4,045 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture
My understanding of how "Soft-Heat" was designed to work on electric dryers is that BOTH elements came on at the beginning of the cycle. The lower wattage element stayed on for the ENTIRE cycle until the cool-down began. The high-wattage element cycled on the cycling thermostat (which was often in the 150 degree range) The Low wattage element operating for the entire cycle was what made it "Soft-Heat" as the temperature in the drum never fluctuated as widely as a single 5600 watt element cycling on and off would.

I have a 1967 800 series soft heat dryer in the stable right now. I should make some observations next time I use it as to how it cycles.


Post# 663176 , Reply# 22   2/28/2013 at 23:45 (4,045 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture
Here's a page from a 1968 service manual describing the "Soft-Heat" system.

Post# 663177 , Reply# 23   2/28/2013 at 23:47 (4,045 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture
And here is a page which includes an electrical schematic for a Soft heat dryer with electronic control.

Post# 663178 , Reply# 24   2/28/2013 at 23:51 (4,045 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Mr Kenmore

akronman's profile picture

THANK YOU, I will print these out in the morning for review. I wonder if I got the wiring mixed between the 2.

Thank yuo , this is perfect, it's also time for bed--

Mark

 

 


Post# 663222 , Reply# 25   3/1/2013 at 07:29 (4,045 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1966 LKM Dryer

combo52's profile picture

Hi Mark, and Mark, I do think that you have the two heaters connected backwards, as Mark in Minneapolis suggested the 1400 watt element never cycles until the Electronic Control says DRY or if the heater box thermostat opens. With the elements wired backwards you would do some real damage if the EC fails to shut off the heat after the clothing is dry, so it is a good thing that you took such a close look at the dryers operation.


Post# 663230 , Reply# 26   3/1/2013 at 07:57 (4,044 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
thank you

akronman's profile picture

I will switch 2 leads and lay on the floor again to watch, glad I asked and thank you both for advice and posted info--

Mark


Post# 663380 , Reply# 27   3/1/2013 at 23:03 (4,044 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
now working perfectly

akronman's profile picture

Yes, I had crossed the wires, now they are correct thanks to John Combo and Kenmore71 Mark, all is well. It's also tons easier to watch the heater with a handheld mirror instead of laying on the floor.  IT ran both elements for 20 minutes on a huge load of towels, throw rugs, jeans, then the main 4100 watts went off, the little one stayed on, and then once the main one cycled at least 12 times I stopped counting, all is well. Near the end the 4100 ON was down to maybe 20 seconds each time.

 

I'm thinking this out without a ton of skill on the schematics----Hi-Limit is on the heater box and really only kicks out during emergencies and failures, the normal operating thermostats are the 2 mounted on the blower housing. One of those says 150, I can't read the other, each has only 2 wires. 2 wires per thermo means only one temp per thermo, as opposed to various other dryers with multi-temp/3 or more wire thermos and a temp switch on the console. So here,  the 150 operates the 4100 watts on and off, the 1500watts is always on, then once the moisture sensors get down to the 1 thru 8 level setting, it kicks off all heat and the motor continues to tumble on the second thermostat, down to maybe 100 or so when the cycle is done.

 

I installed the drum light which runs thru the cycle and whenever the door is open, the flourescent for the console should arrive tomorrow. Other than painting the front, this old one is restored and operates very well, thanks for the help and advice.

 

For delicate items and low heat, I use a different dryer?


Post# 663422 , Reply# 28   3/2/2013 at 05:16 (4,044 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1966 LKM Electric Dryer

combo52's profile picture

Glad you got it working Mark, YAY.

 

You can dry most delicate items in this dryer, but like most older dryers it does not have as low a temperature as newer dryers do today. The main thing to do if you want to dry delicate items in this dryer is to set the dryness control to a damper setting so the machines cuts off the heat and goes into the cool-down while their is still a hint of moisture left in the delicate clothing items, this way the clothing temperature stays very low.


Post# 663726 , Reply# 29   3/4/2013 at 01:20 (4,042 days old) by badgerdx ()        

I loved reading this thread. So glad you posted it. Very cool old Lady, you have there.

Post# 664227 , Reply# 30   3/6/2013 at 15:17 (4,039 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Finished.....almost

akronman's profile picture

Check out the console light, as yellow as any I've ever seen. There's good advice up the thread for cleaning it, but with the need for peroxide and UV light or sun, it will wait for a summer day, not now in Ohio.

This machine is back in perfect shape, with advice from Kenmore71Mark, John Combo, Dave Vovloguy, thanks to you all and others.

New heater element properly installed and checked, old one wrapped up for repairs, new hinges on the lint filter door, new paint on the entire front, it runs like a charm. The lights(console and drum) are wired together, they come on at the start of the cycle and whenever the door is open, they go out when you close the door or when the cycle ends. The origianl motor is clean and lubed, everything inside is cleaned and Rustoleumed, the blower and airways all lint-free. The vent needs to be cut through the wall to the outdoors, come summertime, along with the one for the D608 to the right. I only do gas dryers where there is a vent, I use electric for some basement heat and moisture until summer arrives and I can crawl under the front porch to cut through a vent.

Running like a charm, huge 29" cabinet monster of a machine, it's fine.


Post# 664229 , Reply# 31   3/6/2013 at 15:18 (4,039 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
inside

akronman's profile picture

look at that moisture sensor, there's 3 of them, very fine-tuned and accurate for quick results


Post# 664230 , Reply# 32   3/6/2013 at 15:19 (4,039 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
more

akronman's profile picture

8 moisture levels, so far 6 seems fine for sheets and shirts, 5 is for towels and blue jeans.


Post# 664231 , Reply# 33   3/6/2013 at 15:22 (4,039 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
more

akronman's profile picture

Lint filter door, new hinges--unmatched--but working fine. Due to my mistake and/or Ebay mis-listings, I have spares of these plastic hinges. Anyone need a few? Email me.

 

If the pic was clearer, you'd see my only cheating--the new lint filter is actually Whirlpool instead of Lady Kenmore.

 

Except for the yellowed lens, this machine is now finalized, grounded, leveled, etc, I expect years of good service from it. Thanks to AW.org folks for much needed info and advice


Post# 664235 , Reply# 34   3/6/2013 at 15:43 (4,039 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Do I Spy?

danemodsandy's profile picture
A freshly re-painted drum?

Man, you're good!

Congratulations. I never realized my dream of owning one of these, but it's great to see someone else has one and appreciates it properly.


Post# 664237 , Reply# 35   3/6/2013 at 16:02 (4,039 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
nope

akronman's profile picture

No, the drum and bulkhead will remain as in the old pictures, sorry. Too much work and then the possibility of just wearing.chipping paint again, that shot shot is just pure luck of being in the best position for photos. As for a new bulkhead, this one has both the inlet holes for the perfume bottle scent, and the window for the drum light, it would be too hard to find the exact bulkhead with those extras. So that will  remain. I appreeciate the advice on powder coating and various specialty paints, they may come in very handy down the road on this or another machne, and with a better budget here.

 

This machine just did another load of clothes, perfect performance. The buzzer is the very end of it all, no "WrinkleGuard" run-on ability, oh well. And I think I set a new personal best record, only one 5/16 sheet metal screw leftover, nothing else, I got all wire guides and stainless screws and everything back in place save that!

 

John--Mark--Did the gas model of this have modulating heat for SoftHeat?



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy