Thread Number: 45745
Can someone restore my Kenmore washer for me? Thanks ! |
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Post# 669161 , Reply# 1   3/30/2013 at 00:39 (4,044 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))   |   | |
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These would be early 90's machines. Easily some of the best ever made. Hopefully you can keep these running for a long time as most new washers are junk compared to yours. I would imagine someone here can help you. I would offer to do so but I live near Minneapolis. Perhaps Gordon (Kenmoreguy64) could help. WK78 |
Post# 669640 , Reply# 3   4/1/2013 at 13:23 (4,042 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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I saw your message and wrote back a few moments ago. I wish I had the time to devote to your machine, but unfortunately I don't right now.
I would caution you not to get too excited about an occasional complaint about grease in a tub of a Speed Queen washer, or any other. Manufacturing defects/mistakes happen with anything being made, especially when human error can be involved, but grease and laundry clearly don't mix so I would not expect Speed Queen to make a common error with this without taking corrective action quite quickly. Everything I've heard leads me to believe that SQ/Alliance management takes their reputation very seriously. I am not sure that any manufacturer has a non thermostatic mixing valve which will allow the same amount and temperature hot water in their machines today that was possible in your Kenmore. If anyone does, it seems like it would be Speed Queen. We have the yellow Energy Guide label folks to thank for starting that and the Energy Star group to blame for making it a consumer checklist item. The first way to lower the energy use of a washer is to cut down the amount of hot water it can consume. If you decide to invest in your existing Kenmore, and that is probably what I would do if in your shoes, I hope it works out well for you! Gordon This post was last edited 04/01/2013 at 13:56 |
Post# 669686 , Reply# 6   4/1/2013 at 15:56 (4,041 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()   |   | |
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I would NEVER be willing to give up our warm rinse, I think that's what has been keeping the outer tub spotless for us all these years. |
Post# 669765 , Reply# 7   4/1/2013 at 21:43 (4,041 days old) by DigAPony ()   |   | |
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I'd suggest a wide daily search on Craiglist. Early 90's Kenmore DD washers can't be that hard to find yet, and people usually dump them cheap so they can "upgrade" to front loaders. |
Post# 671361 , Reply# 9   4/8/2013 at 13:21 (4,035 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
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Deborah,
The typical automotive finish is applied as a liquid paint that is sprayed onto the surface and often baked to aid curing it. The liquid is a solvent which carries the plastic which will end up being the film that is the finish, the solvent evaporates leaving the dry film. The solvent used to by a hydrocarbon but today its often water. Powder coating is done by spraying a super fine powdered plastic (often polyester or polyurethane)onto the surface. They employ a static electric charge to aid the powder to adhere to the surface at first. The part is then backed in a fairly hot oven to cause the plastic to melt and flow over the surfaces being coated. When cooled the part has a durable hard coat shell, I like to say it much like the coating on an M&M. In the end the finish isn't all that much different, the same kinds of plastic films can be sprayed as a liquid or a powder. The thicker film and higher baking temperature of powder coat do tend to lead to a harder and more durable finish. You can Google Paint vs Power Coating and you will get lots of hits, many concerning bicycle frame finishing. My guess is for a smaller parts the powder coating could be very attractive but for a large appliance cabinet painting might be more cost effective. One other advantage of paint is a great variety of colors including top coating with pearl or metallic additives to alter the look. Solid "appliance" colors can be done either way! |
Post# 672930 , Reply# 13   4/15/2013 at 13:55 (4,028 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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The first guy sounds much more honest and old-school to me, and that's a good thing. The second guy sounds like your typical modern day repair tech who only knows how to change out parts rather than repair them.
I think the first guy would be more committed to making sure your washer is fixed properly, whereas if you had the second guy install a new transmission and you weren't happy with the results, he'd likely just tell you that's the way it is with the new replacements so he could blame it on the part. I'd go with the first guy if I were you. He clearly knows what he's doing.
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Post# 672932 , Reply# 14   4/15/2013 at 14:01 (4,027 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The second guy may be confused on what kind of machine you have. A *new* design that came out in the last couple years (replacing the design you have) has a sealed transmission that can't be directly repaired, must be replaced as a unit ... or the notorious Maytag mechanism that Coldspot references above. Your direct-drive machine, the transmission *can* be disassembled for repair, not aware of any that can't (unless maybe I'm just not aware). Replacement transmissions are same as the original. There are sources to buy rebuilt transmissions as well as "new"/factory trannys. As for a new tranny costing $500 for the part, looking up an 18+ years old KitchenAid toploader of the same mechanical design as your Kenmore, the transmission is Part Number 3360629 (which may or may not be the same as you need, but *probably is* the same). SearsPartsDirect.com $196.23 RepairClinic.com $188.95 PartsTap.com $183.17 AppliancePartsPros.com $182.54 PartsDr.com $134.99 ApplianceZone.com $167.50 EBay.com ranging from $67.99 and up for used or new/refurbed as the case may be. |
Post# 673812 , Reply# 16   4/18/2013 at 19:59 (4,024 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 673823 , Reply# 17   4/18/2013 at 21:22 (4,024 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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