Thread Number: 45973
How To Convert Propane Dryer to Natural Gas
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Post# 672048   4/11/2013 at 18:16 (4,031 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Some friends of mine have a mid-70's GE dryer currently set up for propane, they want to use it with natural gas in their new home. I've seen plenty of conversion kits for NG to LG but not vice versa.

What is needed to convert it back to NG?

Thanks-Douglas





Post# 672063 , Reply# 1   4/11/2013 at 19:29 (4,031 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

For starters, I think the orifices have to be different.  I can't remember how it goes, but the openings are larger for one type (NG?) and smaller on the other (LP?) due to differences in pressure.  I don't see why it couldn't be adapted for NG.  GE made literally tons of dryers designed for NG hook-ups. 

 

Maybe there's some GE literature in Ephemera that speaks to this.


Post# 672071 , Reply# 2   4/11/2013 at 20:36 (4,031 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Converting a LP Gas Dryer Back to NG

combo52's profile picture

You only need to change the main burner orifice to the larger NG one and change the regulator cap back to NG operation, unless the dryer still has a constant burning pilot then you would also have to change the pilot orifice to a NG one.


Post# 672084 , Reply# 3   4/11/2013 at 21:15 (4,031 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Okay thanks, where can I get those parts?

Post# 672101 , Reply# 4   4/11/2013 at 21:41 (4,031 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        
Converting

wayupnorth's profile picture
Propane burns with WAY higher heat than Natural Gas because it is a somewhat derivitive of it from what I have been told and thats why it costs more. Propane has to be adjusted and the correct orifices in the burner will make it work perfect. That is if its available.

Post# 672105 , Reply# 5   4/11/2013 at 21:57 (4,031 days old) by DigAPony ()        

The dryer is already converted to propane, I wanted to change it back to NG.

Unfortunately after doing an internet search the correct orifice valve seems to be NLA everywhere, crap..


Post# 672123 , Reply# 6   4/12/2013 at 00:51 (4,031 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Digapony check with a Propane delivery guy. He may very well have the NG orifice parts from changing new natural gas appliances to propane or know someone with a stash of these parts. This is a case where you may have to go from the city to the country to get what you need. Good Luck. Propane orifices are smaller than their NG counterparts. alr

Post# 672202 , Reply# 7   4/12/2013 at 12:31 (4,030 days old) by DigAPony ()        

In my area propane companies are next to useless, they deliver propane and thats about it.

I wonder if the orifice is a standard size that may accept a substitute?


Post# 672223 , Reply# 8   4/12/2013 at 14:06 (4,030 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

You might be able to find some kind of universal fit component at an appliance parts store.  Or pull the correct assembly off a junk GE dryer.  One is bound to present itself eventually.


Post# 672224 , Reply# 9   4/12/2013 at 14:07 (4,030 days old) by franksdad (Greenville, South Carolina)        

franksdad's profile picture

I don't know if this would help, but around here a lot of people convert their propane grills and propane fireplace logs to natural gas.   Check with your local natural gas provider.  My local natural gas authority advertises that their service department can do

this.  Maybe yours can help.  Jim  


Post# 672227 , Reply# 10   4/12/2013 at 14:22 (4,030 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Gas Primer

Doug,
There is no real rocket science when it comes to converting from LP to Natural Gas and vice versa. You just need to know that you need to make it all safe.

Natural gas appliances usually run at 3.5" of water column and LP runs at 10" w.c.
So think in terms of a 3 to 1 ratio.
Natural Gas orifices are larger than LP orifices because of that pressure difference.
Assuming the dryer Does NOT have a standing pilot, you will need to install a larger opening orifice to get the equivalent btu's from the natural gas but if you cannot get a regulator kit to go back to natural gas, you MUST install an external regulator set for Natural gas for proper and safe operation. These are available from most major plumbing houses. You will probably have to put in reducing bushings to fit the piping on the dryer. This is to protect against variations in the supply pressure of the natural gas which can and does happen from time to time.
Ideally, you should tee off right after the regulator so you can connect a manometer to check and adjust the pressure while the burner is running. That way the burner will run at its designed parameter. The burners for LP and Natural are 99.9% the same so you should not have to change the burner.

There are orifice charts out there that will tell you the orifice size needed for a specific BTU rating at either natural or LP gas. If you know the burner rating on that dryer, post it here and I will be glad to look it up for you or provide a link to a useful chart.

Once you know the size of the orifice you will need, and theya re never going to go back to LP gas, then you can drill out the LP orifice to the proper size for Natural.

If you want, you can take out that orifice and go to Agway or AMerigas and give them the size you need and they can match an orifice to the one you have only with the enlarged opening.

Does this make sense?

I found a chart that you can use at the link attached.
Just go down the column under 3.5 and find your BTU rating. Then look over to the left and it will have a 2 digit number which is the orifice size and then a drill bit size if you wish to drill out the LP orifice. Hope this helps.
Steve


CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK


Post# 672233 , Reply# 11   4/12/2013 at 14:44 (4,030 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
worst case scenario.....you have to buy a whole new gas valve, their usually already setup for NG......

and for the most part these are usually standard valves and fittings....you could almost interchange between models.....

can't believe you could not find one....I was able to change mine back, and mine is a 1985 unit....got the kit off ebay...


Post# 672236 , Reply# 12   4/12/2013 at 14:55 (4,030 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Thanks for the info.

It is a standard older 70's GE dryer with the D shaped opening and 22,000 BTU burner.


Post# 672327 , Reply# 13   4/12/2013 at 20:34 (4,030 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Looks like ..

a number 42 orifice will do just fine.

Post# 672343 , Reply# 14   4/12/2013 at 21:34 (4,030 days old) by DigAPony ()        

From what I understand the regulator on gas dryers are already set from the factory for NG. The LP conversion kit blocks the regulator wide open for propane and a smaller orifice is installed.

Therefore, to convert back to NG the block for the regulator is removed and capped, and the correct larger orifice installed, no?

Just a question of locating the correct parts then?

I'll open it up tomorrow. I heard something rolling around loose inside the dryer, perhaps someone did the right thing for a change and left the old parts in the dryer.


Post# 672494 , Reply# 15   4/13/2013 at 15:32 (4,029 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Okay, I removed the gas burner and valve assembly today, it is indeed a #55 orifice LP orifice. However, no extra parts or labeling anywhere on the dryer indicating a LP conversion. The regulator had an 1/2 aluminum blocking tee with 7/8 rod and a gasket.

I can probably locate a #42 NG orifice and could just cut off the rod on the tee but then going back to propane would be out of the question as the parts are NLA.

Can I use a generic brass cap on an aluminum body regulator? Also should I replace the ignitor while I've got it apart?


Post# 673817 , Reply# 16   4/18/2013 at 20:27 (4,024 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Update on the dryer conversion:

I purchased a #42 orifice for NG on Ebay. I'll trim the blocking rod off the aluminum LP regulator cap and that should do the trick. (Also, got a new rear drum bearing sleeve).

Something I noticed, virtually all the LP dryer conversion kits available have brass blocking caps, often installed directly onto the alumimun bodied regulator.

It appears brass on aluminum is acceptable in this instance despite being dissimilar metals?





Post# 673845 , Reply# 17   4/19/2013 at 00:41 (4,024 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        
Brass and Aluminum

kb0nes's profile picture
For a dry application it is unlikely you will ever see any problems mixing fittings of these metals. Brass and aluminum aren't that far apart on the Anodic index so as long as you aren't dealing with a wet, or corrosive environment you should be fine.

For safety and ease of future disassembly consider using a something to protect the thread interface. A good pipe thread compound (I like Locktite 565) or Teflon tape would work well if you are dealing with tapered pipe threads. If they are just straight threads,which have less clearance, I'd use a smear of silicone grease. Just filling the threads so that air and moisture is excluded will do the trick. I have come to use some silicone grease on most every threaded plumbing fitting (non pipe thread) that I work on. Years later they unscrew with no drama at all!


Post# 673895 , Reply# 18   4/19/2013 at 08:03 (4,023 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Pressure Regulator Caps on Gas Dryers

combo52's profile picture

This cap has machine threads and the cap has a thin permanent gasket on it so nothing needs to be put on these threads to seal them and the worst thing that one could do would use a petroleum based sealant on it that might damage the diaphragm in the pressure regulator.


Post# 673980 , Reply# 19   4/19/2013 at 14:42 (4,023 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Right, the cap has a gasket and should be only moderately tight as I understand.

Post# 674975 , Reply# 20   4/23/2013 at 14:39 (4,019 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Okay, I think I've got this settled.

I was able to get the correct NG #42 orifice locally. Whirlpool dryer part # 234826 but identical to the GE orifice, (#15418 may work as well).

Now, for the leak limiter cap I'm going to remove the blocking stem and reinstall, please comment if this sounds incorrect.

Also, I found a NOS GE LP conversion kit on Ebay in case someone wants to convert the dryer back to LP- GE part. #WE25X113





CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK


Post# 675000 , Reply# 21   4/23/2013 at 16:20 (4,019 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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you would have to match your model number to the exact kit needed......

but appliancezone.com has the LP to NG conversion back!.....

just changing out two pieces in a matter of minutes....really easy


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK


Post# 676266 , Reply# 22   4/29/2013 at 16:23 (4,013 days old) by DigAPony ()        

The GE conversion kit arrived today.

It is a older conversion kit that even includes parts for a standing pilot and the instructions cover N.G. to L.P. or L.P. to N.G. and even mixed gas. As for the Regulator Blocker instructions are to remove for N.G., install for L.P. - simple enough. (Apparently with the pin intact its called a blocker, without the pin it becomes a Leak Limiter)?

Anyway, it also suggests the air shutter should be adjusted for minimum yellow flame; open for L.P. , close for N.G. The shutter appears fully open currently.

Anyone ever find it necessary to do this adjustment? Is it done while operating?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to do this right as its for a friend.





Post# 676268 , Reply# 23   4/29/2013 at 16:39 (4,013 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
never had to adjust the air mix.....as long as its a blue flame, with some yellow tips, your good to go......give it a few cycles on/off before you decide it needs adjustment.....and you can adjust while in operation, probably best this way you can adjust small increments at a time....

I have seen a 50/50 yellow/blue at the start, and then taper to the 90% blue....even if an adjustment is needed, keep an eye on it for a while.....once set, your good to go....

happy drying!


Post# 676275 , Reply# 24   4/29/2013 at 17:16 (4,013 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Will do, thanks.

I'll try to post some photos when this is all back together.


Post# 676297 , Reply# 25   4/29/2013 at 19:17 (4,013 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Pressure Regulator Caps on Gas Dryers

combo52's profile picture

The cap for Natural Gas is called a leak limiter because it has a very small hole drilled through it, this is necessary so the diafram in the pressure regulator can flex and work [ the back side must be at atmospheric pressure ]. The very small hole in the cap will allow a very small amount of gas to leak if the regular diafram leaks, but this would be too little gas to ever cause a fire or explosion. Generally the main burner air-shutter needs to be open completely for either nat or LP gas. There is a BIG difference between orange flame and yellowish flame, orange is caused by dust and dirt being burned, yellow flame on the tips is usually caused by too little primary air [ air shutter adjustment ]. If you know what you are looking at there is no need to wait for several burner cycles, the air shutter adjustment can be made immediately.


Post# 676462 , Reply# 26   4/30/2013 at 15:06 (4,012 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Well, that shoots down my idea of removing the blocker pin and reusing the cap alone. Fortunately, I found a Vent Cap for an old Frigidaire Dryer on Ebay that looks like it may be exactly what I need.

Virtually identical to GE #WE1X606 but aluminum and much less expensive:
www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/L...

Thanks again for the info.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK on eBay


Post# 676465 , Reply# 27   4/30/2013 at 15:26 (4,012 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
well if you broke off the little stem to reuse the cap....couldn't you just drill a tiny hole into it?.....either from the side as the one shown, or from the top, to allow it to vent...

Post# 676471 , Reply# 28   4/30/2013 at 15:56 (4,012 days old) by DigAPony ()        

Yes, I was thinking about that, however the vent cap (leak limiter) has only a tiny pin hole (see link):
www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/L...

I'd rather not take chances since the dryer is for friends who are moving into their first home and are babes in the woods with things mechanical.



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