Thread Number: 46176
Rebuild Hobart KD-18 motor? Replace with?
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Post# 674673   4/22/2013 at 14:39 (4,014 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

I think the motor is locked up on my Kitchenaid KDI-18 dishwasher. Continuity is about 1 Ohm on the leads, and nothing to ground. The Hobart parts guy says they don't make this motor anymore but it might be rebuildable. Maybe just bearings. Don't know about availability of anything else it might need like brushes or rotor.

Even then I need to see if I can still get the Motor Mounting Plate Gasket.

Otherwise how do I figure out a replacement motor?

The OEM has the pump already attached; it is possible to remove the pump from the original motor and assemble it to a bare motor?





Post# 674714 , Reply# 1   4/22/2013 at 17:00 (4,014 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

The shaft is locked.

Only unique things are

1) the pattern of the 4 bolt holes for attaching the pump

2) the pattern of the 3 studs which the retaining clips hook over

But might this not be a standard sort of motor end plate?


Post# 674759 , Reply# 2   4/22/2013 at 19:36 (4,013 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
New motors are still available. Hobart sources them from Emerson for the SR-24 machines. Part# 4171686

Link below: It should also come with those gauges that you don't have, along with instructions. I scored one of these motors from craigslist a few months back.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay


Post# 674782 , Reply# 3   4/22/2013 at 21:21 (4,013 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Dan, I remember that motor!  I'm glad you managed to snag it. 


Post# 674976 , Reply# 4   4/23/2013 at 14:40 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

Dan - the motor in the eBay photo has a different looking mounting bracket than mine. OTOH the bolt pattern & centers might be the same, I can't tell.

It would be sensible for them to have the bolt patterns always the same though.

It appears that the bolt holes are further from the shaft than on mine.

My bolt holes are 3 1/4" center to center from the shaft.


Post# 674983 , Reply# 5   4/23/2013 at 15:10 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

Just found that motor at another site & says its OEM part number 560612

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/C...

Also the cited motor has an extra (white) wire which mine does not have. Is this just for making it spin in the other direction, so I would simply waterproof it and not use it ?


Hmm, just noticed the Hobart part number on my existing Type KD-18 motor is 2149339.


Post# 674986 , Reply# 6   4/23/2013 at 15:24 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

And the height of the Emerson motor seems to be around to 6".

My motor is 5" to the top of the pump mounting bracket.

The floor is 6 1/2" under the metal lip of the pump well.

I really don't know if it will fit -- might have to re-install it to find out how low it hangs.


Post# 674988 , Reply# 7   4/23/2013 at 15:33 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

Well, I just set the pump into the well without the gasket. Maybe the gasket raises things up another fraction...

Distance from mounting hole to the floor is 5 3/4". This replacement motor might be a tight fit... or I could cut a hole in the floor; even if there's a joist below that would get me another 1/2" clearance...

Should I spend the $100 to give it a try ???


Post# 674996 , Reply# 8   4/23/2013 at 16:15 (4,013 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
You are driving yourself crazy!

Don't worry so much about fit. It is a direct replacement for either the original round Hobart Built Motor or the slab sided Emerson motor. The bolt patterns are the same and will mount up to your original pump mounting plate without a problem. Once Hobart sold KA to Whirlpool, they also got the plant that built the dw motors and WP is not in the motor building business so they had Emerson build them as they always had.

The difference in the motor that your machine has is that the Hobart motor had a centrifugal start switch in the motor which started it in the proper direction. The replacements use a motor start relay which should be part of the replacement kit. It is a simple hookup to do. That is the reason for the "extra" wire. It will attach to one side of the drain solenoid and everything you need to do it will be in the kit.

Hobart,on the other hand, while still using the same style motor in the SR24 machines as the motors in the KD18 thru 20 series machines, does not use the start relay but rather a start capacitor which gets wired into the circuit. Hobart also gets way, way more money for the motor kit so stick with the Whirlpool sourced motors. Emerson also builds the motor for the Hobart machines and tags them with the Hobart part numbers.
The stock number from repair clinic is their stock number for the kit and references the OEM WP number.

You will not go wrong with the replacement. If you feel so inclined, I have more than a dozen motors available for those machines that came out of working units.
And rebuilding your old one is actually easy. The bearings are standard fare and should be available from any bearing house or even Hobart. Let me know if you want the part number.
If you do go for a new motor kit, DO rebuiold your old one so you will have a working spare.


Post# 675001 , Reply# 9   4/23/2013 at 16:20 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

OK, the people at www.appliance-parts-experts.com... gave me the phone number to the factory Whirlpool/Kitchenaid parts center: 800-253-1301 and they still have the original parts numbers on their system.

They said that the motor part number in my book is now 4711686. They don't have any more, but I snagged the one on eBay.

They also still have some rubber parts like the door seal !!!


Post# 675003 , Reply# 10   4/23/2013 at 16:30 (4,013 days old) by OldKitchen (planet earth)        

Re rebuilding -- I removed the 4 long bolts. How do I separate the ends? Will both of the "cast metal" housing ends come off of the "coil & plate" center, or only one end?

I need to get a library book on how to rebuild small motors; I'm visual & need pictures.

***
" The replacements use a motor start relay which should be part of the replacement kit. It is a simple hookup to do. That is the reason for the "extra" wire. It will attach to one side of the drain solenoid and everything you need to do it will be in the kit. "

Does the kit show the wiring diagram? Otherwise I need you to describe it to me. Which wire to which solenoid spade (The top spade had the yellow & white wires, the bottom the pink wire. Although I suppose the relay doesn't care which is which.)

Something like:
Motor white to relay (which contact?)
and
other relay contact to ??? white side of drain solenoid ???

So HAPPY about being able to keep this fine unit working !!!


Post# 675680 , Reply# 11   4/26/2013 at 17:42 (4,010 days old) by oldkitchen (planet earth)        

Found old thread w/ photo of motor, FYI:

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

Found some holes in the tub under the gasket area; repairing with JB Weld epoxy and some fiberglass cloth:

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

WRT the replacement motor -- can/should I put some oil on the bearings before I install it, since its been sitting on the shelf for years? How can I access bearings to get the oil to them? Presume bearings are on top & bottom.


Post# 676329 , Reply# 12   4/29/2013 at 23:43 (4,006 days old) by oldkitchen (planet earth)        

Not sure how to use the Touch part of the drain impeller clearance gage.

If I orient the T side down, and slide the gauge down the motor shaft... I cannot tell if it touches the shaft "flat" first or the plastic "floor" of the housing. When it touches the flat, I can't see if it is touching the floor.

The C side shows a nice gap; room for the required 1 washer.


Post# 676551 , Reply# 13   4/30/2013 at 21:04 (4,005 days old) by oldkitchen (planet earth)        

OK I'm guessing that the Touch must touch the shaft flat when you slide it down the shaft, and that the Clear must NOT touch.

Now on to the top impeller. The gauge passes when I slide it into the right side as illustrated, but the left side drags on the housing. This could be due to the housing not really being screwed on completely flat; but I will raise it high enough to clear all around.

Also maybe overkill, but I took some sandpaper and smoothed out the lower half of the housing a little. Got rid of any mineral deposits making little lumps. Used 250 then 600. Maybe reduce the grabby side a little too.


Post# 676587 , Reply# 14   5/1/2013 at 00:13 (4,005 days old) by oldkitchen (planet earth)        

Not succeeding in getting the motor housing gasket into place. What's the trick? Tried putting the gasket around the motor assy and pushing, but no go. So placed the gasket & tried angling the motor assy down & in; also no good. Is this a brute force job or what?

Can't get leverage... heater element in the way of my fingers also. Tried using screwdrivers to get under the gasket flange, like installing a bicycle tire.

Can't rock the motor assy much because the hose on the right is a tight squeeze and the clamp for the hose on the right wants to chip the enamel.


Post# 676679 , Reply# 15   5/1/2013 at 15:17 (4,005 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

OLD KIT, what about turning the whole dw upside down and grabing motor from bottom?


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