Thread Number: 4640
A606 At Last
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 104079   1/16/2006 at 15:08 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Just picked up an older A606 today... a pre-'76 model, I think. It has the pilot light as well as the absence of the dreaded "cold rinse" buttons.

It was free, but the previous owner stated that he thinks it may need a new belt, since it's making kind of heated rubber sounds and doesn't agitate/spin properly. We looked at the belts and they do look a bit loose. I'm not sure what genuine Maytag belts are supposed to look like, but I'll try getting some new ones at the local appliance store this week...

Oh yeah, and it's missing the "Small" load level button. Any idea if one can get this replaced?






Post# 104080 , Reply# 1   1/16/2006 at 15:09 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
The beautiful control dial

sudsmaster's profile picture
No chance of this baby having its numbers rubbed off!


Post# 104082 , Reply# 2   1/16/2006 at 15:17 (6,672 days old) by frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
Wow, what a find! Congrats and good luck loooking for the SMALL load button. She's a beauty. And thanks for the close-up of the cycle dial. Ah, for the simple times...

Post# 104083 , Reply# 3   1/16/2006 at 15:18 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Lint filter in need of cleaning

sudsmaster's profile picture
He wasn't aware it was even there...

Post# 104088 , Reply# 4   1/16/2006 at 15:34 (6,672 days old) by erkjoey ()        

Congrats Rich! That appears to me to be pre-1971. You should be able to order the button kit from Maytag. Very inexpensive, or perhaps your local appliance parts store may have it. I often get parts from Coast Appliance. Very big in CA. www.coastparts.com...
Erik


Post# 104089 , Reply# 5   1/16/2006 at 15:41 (6,672 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Rich!!

swestoyz's profile picture
You LUCKY dog! That is a 1966 or VERY early 1967 A606!! If you check the serial number the second to the last digit should be a B. It has the early 06 series mesh lint filter, along with the EARLY 8 fin Powerfin agitator! I've been looking high and low for an 8 fin agitator for my 1966 A806 - looks like you have scored. Buttons are available on other free, about-to-be-crushed machines, or possibly check with Maytag. I'll post PN's later tonight. BTW - that dial looks AWESOME!!

Ben


Post# 104091 , Reply# 6   1/16/2006 at 15:44 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
The date code is "DB"...



Post# 104096 , Reply# 7   1/16/2006 at 16:30 (6,672 days old) by frontaloadotmy (the cool gay realm)        
Date Code


= January 1967


Post# 104100 , Reply# 8   1/16/2006 at 16:58 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Thanks!

I think I was enjoying the flu around that time!


Post# 104102 , Reply# 9   1/16/2006 at 17:20 (6,672 days old) by drmitch ()        

Great find! along with new belts you might check the spring tensioners on the motor and make sure the motor can slide freely in its chassis.

Post# 104104 , Reply# 10   1/16/2006 at 17:32 (6,672 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
A606 Panel

swestoyz's profile picture
Steve,

I've included the parts diagram and list for you.

Ben


Post# 104105 , Reply# 11   1/16/2006 at 17:33 (6,672 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
#2

swestoyz's profile picture
The Parts List

Post# 104111 , Reply# 12   1/16/2006 at 18:38 (6,672 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
Ben do u have the list and diagram for a 606s with the perm press
cycle


Post# 104116 , Reply# 13   1/16/2006 at 19:10 (6,672 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Pete,

No - unfortunately, I do not. Current part list stock for post 1965 is Series 00 (1966) A106 - A906, series 01 A906, then most of the X07, a few X08, and all the X10 - X12. I still have some gapping holes that I'm trying to fill. Anyone else?

Ben


Post# 104122 , Reply# 14   1/16/2006 at 19:26 (6,672 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Rich congratulations, persistance pays off. I had many hours playing with a washer just like this. It replaced a WI59 Frigidaire that had hoses bust while family was on vacation (hot water). The Myg wasn't as exciting as the Frigidaire, but I still got to do lots of laundry in the Myg.

Post# 104125 , Reply# 15   1/16/2006 at 20:18 (6,672 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Ben,

Thanks much for the control panel parts diagram and list.

Mitch,

That I will do.

There is some grease splatter under the chassis; I'm hoping that's just from the lubrication for the motor slide, and not transmission grease/oil. We'll see. I'll have to pull off the front panel to take a closer look, but perhaps not till next weekend.

Bob,

Too bad about your hose burst. I make a habit of turning off the water to the washer when I'm through with a laundry session. That plus SS braided hoses gives a little peace of mind.

All,

Looks like I'm going to have to create a laundry area outside of my laundry closet. My former collection of two: Neptune 7500 washer and '78 GE Filter-Flo has been doubled with the addition of the Frigmore and now the A606. And I'm not done yet... would love to have a rigid-mount deco Bendix, as well as a Rollermatic.



Post# 104151 , Reply# 16   1/16/2006 at 22:27 (6,672 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Rich, thanks for the kind words, but it was some friends of my parents. I mourned when I heard they had gotten rid of the Frigidaire, either early Fall 1966 or 1967.

Post# 104333 , Reply# 17   1/17/2006 at 21:27 (6,671 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hey Suds,
What a find, looks to be in great shape! Be careful, Don't scrub the filter- you can break thru the mesh. Soak it in hot water with vinegar and gently clean it with a toothbrush the next day. To see what's up with the poor action, first tip it up a little and turn the pump pulley. It should be free in both directions. It that is fine, check the motor carriage springs and be sure the motor slides freely. I bet it's one or the other. The buttons come together in a package, Small. Med and Normal. Keep us posted.
Bobby in Boston.


Post# 104360 , Reply# 18   1/18/2006 at 00:34 (6,671 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
I used water pressure

sudsmaster's profile picture
And some good old fashioned hand-rubbing to loosen and remove the bulk of the lint stuck to the filter. It wasn't all that bad. However I notice some stringly lint wound around the top of the agitator post under the lint filter area. How do I remove the agitator to get at that? Just pull straight up?

The belts do seem rather loose to me... and they don't appear to be anything special; they look like typical automotive fan belts. So I'm thinking maybe they aren't genuine Maytag belts? I haven't yet tried turning the pump separately... I will also be taking off the front panel to see if there is grease/oil dripping from the tranny. The previous owner said they hadn't noticed any oil on the floor, which is good.

Later on this week I'll check with my local appliance parts distributor about the buttons and belts and anything else this lovely thing needs. The control panel needs a re-spray to cover up the worn area on the upper right hand portion. Is there any particular color code to ask for? It looks like a sort of cream/off-white. It's interesting that the whole piece seems to be chromed underneath...


Post# 104373 , Reply# 19   1/18/2006 at 04:22 (6,671 days old) by fixerman ()        

The belts will feel loose on a Maytag. They are tensioned by the motor slide. The belts are special fabric covered to allow for slipping as the Maytag has no clutch.
You don't have to remove the front to look for leaking grease. Just tip it back and look at the center pulley.
The agitator just comes off by pulling it up....Ir your lucky. Sometimes they get stuck from corrosion on the agitator shaft and can be almost impossible to get off. If its a problem try filling it with very hot water before trying to take it off.


Post# 104428 , Reply# 20   1/18/2006 at 13:04 (6,670 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Congratulations!! Just a few more machines and your collection is bigger than mine!!

Post# 104504 , Reply# 21   1/18/2006 at 19:53 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
The center pulley looks like it has grease on it, which it has flung across the bottom of the washer.

Is that bad? :-)


Post# 104518 , Reply# 22   1/18/2006 at 20:52 (6,670 days old) by fixerman ()        

The leaking grease probably caused the problem. The belts get grease on them an the belts slip too much. To cure it the trans will have to be replaced or rebuilt. I guess I would have to say it is bad. If you can find a donor machine with a good trans that would be the cheapest way to go. They do take a bit of work to replace them though.
Did you get the agitator out? That's sometimes half the battle right there.


Post# 104526 , Reply# 23   1/18/2006 at 21:31 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
I have good news, and bad news...

sudsmaster's profile picture
Fixerman,

The bad news first. The agitator is quite stuck onto the post. I'll have to wait until the weekend when I can wheel this washer over to a hot water supply to try to loosen it up.

The good news is that while there is grease flung around the underside of the machine, the transmission itself is spotless, with absolutely no sign of leakage. My guess that the flung grease under the washer is from a previous transmission failure, and that this one is a replacement. This is corroborated by signs of someone cleaning old grease off the top of the base, inside the machine. They probably did that when they replaced the tranny. Unless the trannies leak through the shaft that connects to the bottom pulley, I think this one's in great mechanical shape. Additionally, the outside of the outer tub is spotless - no sign of rust, not even any sign of overflow or dripping.

The motor glides quite nicely on its tracks, and the springs are spotless. There's even some clear grease showing on the tracks. The motor looks original, with the original metal shroud and drip cover. I say this because the motor I purchased to fix an older Maytag (500 series?) came with a plastic drip cover.

Anyway, the belts are genuine Maytag, but are quite glazed. So I will be shopping for new belts, as well as the load size button kit. Before I install the new belts, I'm going to clean all traces of old grease from the underside the machine.

Everything spins easily - the drain pulley, the tub, even the tranny. Well, that has some resistance but that's to be expected, I suppose.

I'll know more after I renew the belts, hook it up to the nearest tap, and give it a workout.



Post# 104531 , Reply# 24   1/18/2006 at 21:46 (6,670 days old) by rickr (.)        
Sorry to tell you this,but...

rickr's profile picture
The oil leak comes from the shaft seal,not the transmition seal itself. The oil is from the transmition,however it leaks out via the shaft shown in the photo.

Post# 104533 , Reply# 25   1/18/2006 at 21:54 (6,670 days old) by rickr (.)        
and it runs out on the pulley...

rickr's profile picture
Which spins the oil all over the belts,floor and inside the cabinet.

This unit did not leak,but it had sat unused for 30+ years so I had all the seals,and trans. oil replaced anyway.

I guess some guys just switch the nice vintage Maytag center timer cabinet with a "junker donor" machine that doesn't leak, instead of replacing the seals. These machines still seem to turn up quite often,so perhaps that may be an option for you.
Best of luck!
Rick


Post# 104536 , Reply# 26   1/18/2006 at 22:04 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Rick,

Thanks for the information.

I'm still thinking that this machine once had a tranny leak but that it was fixed... there is evidence that there was grease in the upper part of the cabinet, which was cleaned up. Like I say, when I replace the belts and clean up all traces of grease from under the cabinet (and what's left in the upper cabinet), I'll keep a close eye on it and check for any additional leakage. In any case, it sounds like I'll have to run the thing anyway to loosen up the agitator. Some good STPP in the mix could help to dissolve any corrosion holding that thing on so tight.

It's possible the previous owner cleaned up the grease in the upper cabinet... but I think he would have told me. After all, he was giving the thing away. I did ask him if the machine dripped any oil, and he said definitely not.

Also, the belts themselves are not greasy... I don't mind rebuilding this machine if it needs it, but I'm thinking it doesn't need much more than new belts.

Time will tell!


Post# 104539 , Reply# 27   1/18/2006 at 22:16 (6,670 days old) by rickr (.)        
I could be wrong,but...

rickr's profile picture
I meant to say the oil leaks UNDER the cabinet,as in the area of the photo posted. The leaking oil would not be present inside the cabinet,only UNDER the cabinet.

If the machine doesn't leak any more oil that might be fine,however it might mean the transmition is out of oil also.



Post# 104547 , Reply# 28   1/18/2006 at 22:45 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
seeing is believing...

sudsmaster's profile picture
Here's a shot of the upper cabinet

Post# 104549 , Reply# 29   1/18/2006 at 22:52 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Seeing is believing...

sudsmaster's profile picture
Underside of cabinet... which looks better than the one you say doesn't leak...!


Post# 104552 , Reply# 30   1/18/2006 at 23:01 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Seeing is believing...

sudsmaster's profile picture
The belts are glazed and chunking... not oily.... there are chunks of belt stuck to tranny pulley... wouldn't expect that if it was oiled...





Post# 104574 , Reply# 31   1/19/2006 at 01:11 (6,670 days old) by fixerman ()        

It looks to me the center seal is definately leaking. If somone did replace the trans at one time one would think they would have cleaned up the pulley before putting it back together since the pulley must come off before removing the trans for rebuilding or replacement. I have seen many Maytags that look like this one and usually scrapped them rather than sell them, however I have sold some with a little grease leakage and they seemed to be ok. The reason the belts go bad is oil tends to rot rubber. You can try just replacing the belts and it may work fine if the leak isn't too bad. You would have to check it occasionally to see how bad the leak is.

Post# 104576 , Reply# 32   1/19/2006 at 01:19 (6,670 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
OK, so what is involved with replacing the center seal?



Post# 104593 , Reply# 33   1/19/2006 at 07:00 (6,670 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

If I can add my 2 cents, there is oil in the brake assembly, which can spill over onto the pulley when the machine is tipped on it's side. Sud's 606 looks liike it hasnt been overused, considereing the condition of the porclain in the tub. I would simply replace the belts and clean the pulleys, and reevaluate the leak after a couple weeks of use. My old 142 drips a dime size drop of oil every year or so, and has done this for the past 20 years.
Bobby in boston


Post# 104703 , Reply# 34   1/19/2006 at 20:41 (6,669 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Thanks, Bobby.

I did some checking for parts availability on Parts Select. These belts aren't cheap - about $25 each (the machine takes two). But a necessary expenditure, I think.

If hot water doesn't work to loosen up the agitator, does anyone have a hint as to what else to try? I'm a little concerned I might damage the agitator if I pull on it too vigorously... it's kind of bendy at the bottom...

If the seals need replacing, I would consider that a learning experience...


Post# 104716 , Reply# 35   1/19/2006 at 21:21 (6,669 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
I got a pair of belts at RepairClinic for ~$25. They were listed separately at $25 each, the package deal was listed separately, I think I found it as a link to other recommended parts when I was looking at a selected pump.

Post# 104726 , Reply# 36   1/19/2006 at 21:47 (6,669 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Be careful, Suds. I broke a black bakelite agitator once trying to pull it from the bottom. Does anyone know how good the Maytag agitator puller works? I never got one, and I don't know if this could destroy the agitator either. The original agitator one this 606 is very special and now very hard to find in good condition.
Bobby in boston


Post# 104736 , Reply# 37   1/19/2006 at 23:17 (6,669 days old) by brettsomers ()        
agitator

do NOT pull from the bottom! pull the centerpost!

Post# 104737 , Reply# 38   1/19/2006 at 23:21 (6,669 days old) by fixerman ()        

We keep getting the same questions all the time. Be nice to have a FAQ section to refer to for common questions. Though it would take some space it could be made up for in fewer questions and pics being posted. I'm sure Robert has nothing better to do anyway. LOL

bobbyderegis, I am not aware of a agitaor puller specifically for a Maytag but there is a tool called an Agitamer that works on some agitators. Works best on agitators that are driven from the top of the agitator such as Whirlpool or GE. Not so well on Maytags. I once tried to use it on a turquoise plastic agitator and the bottom just folded up and eventually broke the agitamer. They are about $40 so this can get expensive. I once made a tool for pulling Maytag agitator that worked pretty well but is time consuming to engineer. This topic has been discussed previously so try searchinag the archives for more on this subject.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO fixerman's LINK


Post# 104738 , Reply# 39   1/19/2006 at 23:21 (6,669 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
You mean one of these? I have no idea...



Post# 104741 , Reply# 40   1/20/2006 at 00:20 (6,669 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Bobby,

Taking a closer look at the blue plastic agitator... it looks like it's in two pieces. Is this correct? The upper agitator seems to rock a bit from side to side, but won't pull up. If I look down into the center hole, I can see what looks like a crudded-up rubber gasket, then around that is the lower blue plastic agitator - which is kind of like a cone. Does any of this make sense?



Post# 104909 , Reply# 41   1/21/2006 at 15:20 (6,667 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Button, button, who's got the button?

sudsmaster's profile picture
Well, Appliance Parts Distributor, in San Leandro, CA, that's who!

I went there today to pick up a belt set and a button set for the A606. After a considerable amount of cross checking (the parts list that Bobby gave me is apparently superceded), the kindly counterman finally emerged from the rows of parts shelving with a little packet bearing the missing "Small" button, as well as the "Normal" and "Large" buttons. Score!

They also had the belt kit, of course, two for the price that one usually goes for. Score!

The buttons are now in place, and I'm going to replace the belts as soon as I get around to cleaning off all the old grease and chunked rubber on the pulley.

In last night's chat, Erik was kind enough to steer me through checking the little rubber cap on the very bottom of the tranny pulley, and lo and behold, while it held some grease, there was no sign of oil overflow. Erik says that means the tranny is not leaking, and that's good enough for me.

So I looks now that I have a "complete" A606, ready to be hooked up and given its first run in its new home.

Heck, I might even eject the Neptune temporarily from its berth so I can enjoy the sights and sounds of a real top loader again...


Post# 104939 , Reply# 42   1/21/2006 at 18:42 (6,667 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Way to go Rich! I glad you were able to get the buttons locally instead of having them shipped in or via the net. I like the idea of supporting our locally established Appliance Parts stores. You will feel satisified once you get the pulley's preped and belts on and are able to run a wash!

Ben


Post# 104993 , Reply# 43   1/22/2006 at 07:23 (6,667 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        

toggleswitch's profile picture
I can still hear the timer's escapement in my mind

*SIGH*




Post# 104995 , Reply# 44   1/22/2006 at 07:27 (6,667 days old) by stainfighter (Columbia, SC)        
eject your Neppie?!

stainfighter's profile picture
Wow! But what a swap it would be!

Post# 105029 , Reply# 45   1/22/2006 at 11:57 (6,666 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
First I have to give it a "wet run" on cold water via a garden hose in my courtyard. Just to make sure the 606 doesn't leak anything unmentionable.


Post# 105118 , Reply# 46   1/22/2006 at 22:43 (6,666 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Sudssaving?

sudsmaster's profile picture
And even better one just crossed my threshold...



Post# 105119 , Reply# 47   1/22/2006 at 22:59 (6,666 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Rich - does this mean you are adding to the collection? =)

Ben


Post# 105126 , Reply# 48   1/22/2006 at 23:55 (6,666 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Yep!


Post# 105184 , Reply# 49   1/23/2006 at 11:24 (6,665 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Watch out, Suds, you'll NEVER go back to your Neptune again!!!
Fixerman, the agitator pulley was a factory part made in the 60's, probably long since vanished if you haven't seen one. It was listed in the old prts calalogues. I never had one. Suds, did you get the agitator off? The old black Bakelites were two pieces, the top barrel and fins, and a shroud that was screwed on underneath with the coupling. I never pulled apart an old style blue poly agitator, but I would guess it's two pieces as well. If the agitator doesn't want to lift off, discretion may be the better part of valor. Translation, if it ain't broke,...
Bobby in Boston


Post# 106227 , Reply# 50   1/27/2006 at 22:01 (6,661 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Bobby,

Well, the blue agitator feels like it has two parts. Erik explained to me that the lower part is called the "skirt". It's completely covered by the agitator part, which extends all the way down to the bottom of the tub. I can see the skirt if I view down the middle of the agitator (lint filter removed), and I can feel its outer edges if I hook my fingers under the lower part of the main agitator.

I've temporarily given up trying to remove the agitator. Based on Erik's advice, it looks like this tranny is not leaking. I'm hoping to give this washer a test this Sunday (when the rain is supposed to end) and also it's twin, an A606S I recently picked up.


Post# 106524 , Reply# 51   1/29/2006 at 08:16 (6,659 days old) by dale7905 ()        
Maytag A606 Serial #305408KZ

Hello All,

I just discovered this site and thread and wondered if anyone can give me an idea of the age of this Maytag A606 machine with the serial number 305408KZ?

Thanks,

Dale7905


Post# 106526 , Reply# 52   1/29/2006 at 08:42 (6,659 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)        
age

super32's profile picture
December 1970

Post# 106548 , Reply# 53   1/29/2006 at 10:56 (6,659 days old) by bobofhollywood ()        
SLUGGISH TURNING TRANSMISSION

I worked for Maytag for a couple of years and had many many of those machines apart as far as they come. It sounds to me like you've got a bad upper agitator shaft bearing, which will make the transmission difficult to turn in the agitate direction, and will also ruin the belts. It's a commonly overlooked failure. Another symptom of this disorder is that the agitator will not move as quickly as it should when you test out your new belts.

Good luck.

Bob


Post# 106607 , Reply# 54   1/29/2006 at 15:13 (6,659 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Bad upper agitator shaft bearing?

sudsmaster's profile picture
Bob,

That sounds reasonable if the machine was eating belts. Time will tell. As I write, the machine is on it's "maiden" run in my courtyard.... cold water from the garden hose... Kirkland "HE Compatible" liquid detergent... washing two very thick terry bathrobes... It doesn't seem to have any problem agitating during the wash cycle, or spinning out the wash water. The turnover is excellent, better than I remember with my old '83 Whirlpool.

I cleaned off the bottom of the machine, and the pulley, before putting on new belts. I will check the underside after the wash cycle is complete to see if there is any new grease fling.

There is some chirping from the belts at the start of agitation and also the start of the spin, but this may be normal for a Maytag (I don't know), or it may be that I didn't thoroughly rinse off the hand dish detergent/TSP mixture I used to clean the pulleys and underside of the machine with. The machine also isn't exactly level, tilting to the left rear (due to the slope of the courtyard).

But I'm thinking, at this point, that the agitator shaft bearing is just fine. Probably wouldn't hurt to service it anyway. Time will tell.

Plus, I have another amost identical machine, the A606S, to test. Supposedly this works just fine, although it's not in as good cosmetic shape as the A606.



Post# 106616 , Reply# 55   1/29/2006 at 17:16 (6,659 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        
Sluggish Maytags

My rescued A606 was very sluggish at the beginning of the wash, and usually was never up to speed until the rinse. I tore apart the tranny and as I suspected, the oil had turned to sludge. Cleaned out the old oil, put in new. Purrs like a kitten now. I had the same problem with the old 142. I think it was from sitting idle for many years. Has anyone else come across this problem? It seems like a Whirlpool/Kenmore can sit for one hundred years and then fire right up again. And cold temperature was not the cause.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 106623 , Reply# 56   1/29/2006 at 17:48 (6,659 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
I just finished testing the A606S, and it runs just fine. The suds saver feature even works. Although the cheesy non-stock suds saver hose has a permanent kink in it, which restricts the restore suds flow.

The machine doesn't chirp at all... so I went back to the A606, and did a more thorough job of cleaning the pulleys and also gave the belts a good scrub in plain water with a dish brush. I used some brake cleaner on the pulleys, which along with gentle scraping took off a fair amount of melted rubber adhering to them. The motor pulley was particularly encrusted.

I'm about to re-test the A606, as soon as the A606S finishes its wash. I just couldn't let those suds go to waste :-)

Pictures may follow.


Post# 106625 , Reply# 57   1/29/2006 at 18:09 (6,659 days old) by dale7905 ()        
Maytag A606 Serial #305408KZ

Super32

Thanks for the info. This unit came out of a rental unit and reportedly will sometimes 'stick' at the end of the agitate cycle, and just keep agitating. The tenants reported that if they lift the lid at the end of the agitate cycle ( they timed the cycle ) the washer will then proceed to the next cycle. Hard to believe just opening the lid ( which normally cuts off the spin cycle ) would cause the timer to become 'unstuck' and proceed to the next cycle, but that's what the tenants reported.

I'm wondering if the unit is worth repairing and knowing the age will be quite helpful. It's hard to believe the unit is 35 years old!! I've had some experience repairing electrical and mechanical things and maybe all that's needed is a little lubrication on the timer. I think I'll try taking it apart to see what it looks like and try to run it through a few wash cycles again.


Post# 106641 , Reply# 58   1/29/2006 at 19:05 (6,659 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Dueling A606's

sudsmaster's profile picture
In the left corner, the pristine A606.

On the right corner, the frugal A606S.

Both came out swinging their transmissions mightily. First the A606 showed what it could do with new belts. Then the A606S selectively expelled its sudsy wash water into a special container, then sucked it back up for the next load.

The A606 scored points for its nearly flawless finish, both inside and out. The A606S scored points for having a squeaky clean transmission, and that its suds saver valving and circuitry worked so well.

The A606 lose a few points because it needs to have its water level adjusted (too low). The A606S needs to have its non-original suds saver hose replaced - the permanent kink in it restricts its ability to suck the wash water back up.

The decision: it's a tie!



Post# 106642 , Reply# 59   1/29/2006 at 19:07 (6,659 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        
Suckin' Suds

sudsmaster's profile picture
The A606S in action - sucking suds back in for a second washload...



Post# 106707 , Reply# 60   1/29/2006 at 23:42 (6,659 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
BTW, after I recleaned the pulleys and scraped/dissolved off all the melted rubber, the A606 ran quietly with no squeaking. In fact it seems to me it's running quieter overall than the A606S.

The A606 also ran at full agitation speed with no hesitation. It switched easily between gentle and regular action, with a clear change in speed. So I think the upper agitator bearing is ok for now.

Anybody know how to increase the water level in a Maytag? Is it as simple as raising the level sensor (which I assume is attached to a air tube)?



Post# 107046 , Reply# 61   1/31/2006 at 17:39 (6,657 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        
How low is the water level?

Suds, the proper "high" level is anywhere from the second to the top row of tub holes. There is a hex nut adjuster on the water level switch, but before you mess with it, check the air dome hose going from the tub (back right corner) up to the water level switch. Make sure there is no crud or leaks in the hose. (or any build-up at the tub opening). If the water level needs to be tweeked, just barely move the hex nut. Have you booted your Neptune yet??
Bobby in Boston


Post# 107800 , Reply# 62   2/4/2006 at 15:41 (6,653 days old) by dale7905 ()        
Maytag A606 Timer Chart and Cycle Description

Hi All,

I just obtained an older A606. I was wondering if there is anywhere I can obtain a Timer Chart, description of what the machine does during wash cycles (eg: the permanant press cycle seems to have maybe two rinses)and possibly a copy of the owners manual. I did manage to get a copy of a schematic, but I'd like to get the details of operation if I could and a timer chart.

I did find a copy of a timer and schematic pasted to the side of the outer tub of the washer but it was not very readable.

Thanks for any response and help.

Dale


Post# 108412 , Reply# 63   2/7/2006 at 20:57 (6,650 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Carlstadt, NJ)        
Maytag A606 with Permanent Press

PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE:
Fill -- Time variable
Wash -- Selective to 8 minutes
Pause -- 1 minute
Spin & partial drain -- 45 seconds (approx.)
Fill with cold water -- Time variable
Spin & partial drain -- 15 seconds (approx.)
Fill with cold water
Pause -- 1 minute
Deep rinse -- 1 minute
Pause -- 1 minute
Spin & drain -- 2 minutes
Fill with cold water -- time variable
Deep rinse -- 1 minute
Pause -- 1 minute
Damp dry -- 3 minutes

That's some cycle! I never use it on mine, I just use the regular cycle. No cotton/poly blends here.

Ken


Post# 108491 , Reply# 64   2/8/2006 at 06:05 (6,650 days old) by dale7905 ()        
Maytag A606 Timer Chart and Cycle Description

Ken,
Thanks for the description; that's quite helpful. I'm also trying to find a timer chart like that pasted on the side of the A606 tub ( at least it is on mine ..but quite difficult to read) that shows the numbered electrical contacts (electrical switches) on the timer and the opening and closing of the contacts as the timer goes through its cycles. Somewhere I've read that these timers are 'repairable'. With a timer chart I would be better able to diagnose what specific contacts were causing trouble when the washer wasn't working properly.

The A606 I'm working on now seems to be working OK now. The folks who had the washer reported it would 'stick' on the agitate cycle intermittantly. I cleaned all the electrical contacts on the outside of the timer (just pulled/jiggled the wires off and on a few times to make sure there was good contact between the connections) and that seemed to do the trick.


Post# 108492 , Reply# 65   2/8/2006 at 06:16 (6,650 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Carlstadt, NJ)        

I have the manual, I'll look for it after work today.
Ken



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy