OK, this has got to STOP. While taking some trash down to the compacter, this little stud whistled me over. I tried to fight him off, but to no avail, I was hooked.  So meet Mr Whirlpool Convertible, Mod. # LC400XSN1 Stock # LC4900S:

I still have the Kenmore dryer, range hood and the toastmaster fan waiting in the wings. Hubby doesn't know about the washer...yet.

This is a Whirlpool, the dryer is a Kenmore, although they are both almond, I feel they came from different apartments.

I was wondering about the year of manufacture. The Mod. # is LC400XSN1

A Direct-Drive...I was sorta hoping for a belt drive.

Looks remarkably clean.

It seems to me somethings missing here.

Now I popped off the side panel. Talk about easy access.

Base plate is dirty as expected, some light rust.

Now, I know nothing about these machines, but this ring, seems to have been held together at one time, the other 2 are in the same condition.

I was afraid about the suspension rods, but they are affordable, thanks for the link. Well I put a temp cord on it and tried a dry run. Nothing but a humming noise. Hmmm. Either it won't engage without any water or maybe the water pump is jammed. It hummed with all cycles. Anyone have any ideas? I opened up the lint filter and it was clogged, the fabric softener dispenser had a thick covering of gunk. The tub and agitator are quite clean though. Stay tuned.

So I told hubby I got a nifty, new table for the clock...now he's not speaking to me.

I think (and hope) it's the pump too Robert. I got a new cord, plug and washer for it. Will try it again later tonight.

Reminds me of a Power Fin.

I should rig some lights inside the cabinet.  One on each corner...yeah...that does sound hot. I can just hear hubby: "Louie, you have some s'planing to do!"

Can this washer do a "dry" run? Would it agitate without water?

It seems that it will not agitate unless it has water, but it does spin. Funny, I thought it had no water, but I guess some was still left, a few cups of sudsy water came out of the drain hose.

While the machine has a smaller capacity than my Maytag 107 (my daily driver), it certainly has more cycles. So far, it is going to need a lid bumper, a spring replacement kit, a new overflow bag, a seal (I hope) to stop the slow leak, the knob that selects the water level (the escutcheon is missing), a new, correct, quick connect faucet hose and drain hose, some POR-15 to stop the light rust on the right side of the pan and some touch-up paint. It's got a new power cord, plug and grommet. 

I've never seen such vigorous washing in my life.  And can this machine pump water out! The only thing I don't like about it is the lint filter.

Why are you selling your Whirlpool? Getting a larger capacity replacement?

These are very tough little machines, the lint filter in these washers is a great design, it is easy to clean, effective and it is completely out of the way. Outer tub center seal leaks are VERY rare in DD washers, I would look carefully before tearing the machine all apart. The plastic overflow bag-tube can just be thrown away, it is very unlikely that it could ever serve any important purpose.

John, the leak seems to be coming from where the outer tub is attached to the suspension rod (see reply #30).  I have to fill it up with water again and let it sit. Then with a flashlight track the leak down.

Did your loaner machine work only in "Super Wash" mode?

The good news is that if this machine is leaking at the center post seal this is a much easier repair than the older BD machines with a metal outer tub. I mentioned earlier I have almost never seen a leak at this seal and when we did it was usually because the screws that hold the plastic outer tub were loose or the suspension tri-pod was broken.

All you need do to fix this is remove the white plastic cover, agitator and inner wash basket. Then un clamp the drain hose from the outer tub remove six 5/16" head screws that hold the plastic outer tub to the suspension tri-pod and lift te tub out of the washers cabinet. then if it looks like it has actually been leaking at the center-post seal remove the old seal and clean it thoroughly. Normally this seal can be reused unless the rubber has deteriorated. When every thing is clean and dry apply a small bead of 100% silicone sealant on the grove where the rubber seal meets the outer tub and push the rubber seal into the plastic tub. Then apply two rings of the same sealant around the outside of the center post about 4" and 6" up from the bottom of the center-post column and push the tub and seal down into place and screw it in place, it will never leak again, John.

Thank for the step by step John!

I filled it with some water and let it sit. Nothing, no leak. So I suppose this leak was from it during the earlier agitation. The pic's show where it was wet originally and where the water trail was.
 

I would remove the white plastic cover and make sure that the black rubber seal is in place and in good shape.

Yeah, I will John. While I'm at it I'll give the parts a good cleaning. I'll be posting pictures!

Well tonight, I going to hook up and run a complete cycle. I haven't done anything to it yet. Want to make sure what is leaking before I tear it down. Video will follow.

As you can see, the tub is off center. I already have new shocks for it, but I am wondering on whether I should replace the springs as well.

The leak is very slight, but it's there. Has to be the tub seal. Everything else is dry.

No this is the way a real washer is supposed to work Louie, you have just gotten to used to watching a MT.

These are very effective little washers. It does look like your leak is coming from the center-post seal, this type of failure was unusual but easy to fix. The shocks and springs are one part on these machines, hopefully replacing all three will improve the centering of the tub assembly, but the slight out of center condition yours shows usually does not cause any performance problems and we usually leave well enough alone on these washers. Many times even with three new shocks they will still lean a little.

The reason most cords get cut off old electrical items is that people sell the copper wire for MONEY, I cut the cord off every appliance that I send to the scrap yard. If an old machine is sitting on the curb it is easier to grab the cord than the entire appliance for scrap. The old cord can be worth 50 cents up to $2 or more for 240 cords from ranges and dryers.

Well I confirmed it. The machine will not go into spin after draining. You have to lift and close the lid for it to proceed. The timer is still advancing, like the spin had engaged.

When the spin did start, the load became terribly out of balance. Had to rearrange the load. Still, it struggled, oscillating a bit too much for comfort. I guess the shocks are really gone then. Maytag to the rescue!

It seems I'm missing a part for the water softener dispenser?

Nice find, Louie.  I love the video of it agitating at full-tilt with no clothes in the tub; what a thrashing little unit!  Hope the repairs go smoothly for you.  Another great AW save!

Thanks Eugene!

Did a little research. As some of you may recall the Whirlpool fills, washes, drains and will not advance to spin unless I raise and lower the lid. I've read the following may be wrong: Bad lid switch, bad timer, bad tranny. Now before I order any parts, I'd like to know from you experts out there if I am missing any other possibilities. 

My final update. I've decided to give the Whirlpool  to Yogitunes.  I really wanted to finish this machine, but I am just too overcrowded at the moment. And I know it's going to a good home.

I hope to get another, older version in the future when space permits. Hopefully in Coppertone or Harvest Gold.